Garboard fastenings

[1stnewyorker]

I have my first garboard hung on my dory and just now noticed that Gardner recommends 10d nails for the garboard-to-floor fastenings. Of course, I already purchased $80 of 8d nails for this job. ;-(
Will 8d's suffice for fastening the garboard to the floor? Would it help to close the nail spacing from 3 inches to 2 inches? I'd hate to spend another 80 to 100 dollars if it's not necessary. Any thoughts?

[Venchka]

For $21 (or $14, I don't know the exact length of the garboard to bottom joint-the book is at home-55 10d nails to the pound, $6.99/pound) plus postage you can buy more than enough 10d silicon bronze ring nails from Hamilton Marine to nail the garboards using the 3" spacing.

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

[ 01-08-2005, 01:21 PM: Message edited by: Venchka ]

[1stnewyorker]

It would definitely be cheaper to go with modern nails. Unfortunately, the boat I'm building will be rigged as an 18th Century armed boat for Rev War reenacting. As such, I have to stick to period correct fasteners as possible. In this case, cut boat nails. Thanks for the response, anyway.
I think I may compromise and order 10D boat nails and use both the 8d's and 10d's alternating every 2 inches along the floor.

[Bob Smalser]

Adequate length would be the more important factor. 8D is 2 1/2" and 10D is 3".

How thick's the garboard and how thick's the bottom? And is the bottom wood kiln dried or been stored inside a heated shop? If so, for how long?

[Cullen T.M. McGough]

The correct period fastening for an 18th century revolutionary boat builder would be to use whatever the hell might be laying about the shop, and get the job done quick, 'cause there's a war on, by gawd.

That said, 8d nails should be fine as long a fair bit of nail makes it into the floor timber. Proper planking and caulking is what will hold the boat together- not the nails. Remember, the water is pressing IN.

-Cullen

[1stnewyorker]

My hull planking is 3/4 " thick with a 5/4" bottom, both of kiln dried pine. All my storage and building is being done in a largely unheated (with the exception of an occasional salamander) boat shop in upstate NY. I realize that the wood nor the conditions are ideal, but it's the best I could do.
You're right about them building with whatever was available in the Rev War, even using green wood. However they also expected that the vessel's lifespan would be very short (especially for the Americans ;)

[ 01-09-2005, 07:42 AM: Message edited by: 1stnewyorker ]

[Bob Smalser]

I'm thinking about most of its life bouncing around on the trailer and possibly filling up with rainwater, which can happen to the best-cared-for of boats.

Anyway, if the bottom isn't too dry...and yours isn't...I think 8D will be fine.

I'd also put a hull drain in it for when the cover fails and it does fill up.

[1stnewyorker]

Good advice, Bob. Thanks.