3M 5200-4200 and bubbles

[Ralphw]

I can't be the only one with this problem.
I put a couple beads of this stuff on before I refastened a new keel on my 61 Grady white.
there was some squeeze out in a few places where I just smoothed it.

it seems after a week or so and after paint was applied it swelled or bubbled.

just wondering why it does this and anyway to prevent it.
Thanks

[N. Scheuer]

Solvents trying to escape?

Probably should'a let it cure longer before painting.

Moby Nick

[RonW]

I have had exactly the same experience, later it swells out. If you let it cure for over a week you can take a little disc sander and sand it off, which I have done, but later on you will notice that it has swelled again.
You also will have a paint adhesion problem, it will paint fine, but as time goes by the paint flakes off. It is as moby says, it is oozing out solvents that repells paint.
I also a couple of years back talked to 3m tech about 3m5200 and asked the life span of the product. They stuttered and played dumb.

As reported elsewhere if you use it on wood, and the wood becomes water logged it looses it's grip altogether, but I don't think you will have this problem with fiberglass or metal.

I have used my last tube of 3m5200 2 years ago and will use no more. I will suggest another product that I think is many times better.
P.L. window, door and siding sealant, available at home depot and everywhere, for $3. a tube.
It has every bit as much adhesion as 3m5200 does if not more, and about 3 times the flexibility. It is a polyurethane caulk.It is paintable.
And also a gooey tube caulk, as gooey as 3m5200.

I just recaulked on a boat with it, there is no swelling, have not painted over yet, but will soon, and I do not believe there will be a problem, after all it was designed to be painted over and 3m5200 wasn't.

[ 09-11-2005, 01:42 PM: Message edited by: RonW ]

[sdowney717]

great choice. I called the tech people about underwater use and they said it was not tested for this, but they implied its properties would not be affected.
I tested a joint on two pices of pine just to see if it would disintegrate. It was the same after 3 months in summer water, so it had not affected the material itself. I do agree that lust like 5200, it may eventually let go of water loged wood. And I have never seen it swell out of a joint. It is great for caulking windows. On underwater seams if it let go could be trouble.
Coat over the top with permaflex.
www.sanitred.com (http://www.sanitred.com)
Then it wont be a problem ever.

[Norske3]

P.L.?...spell product name out please.

[ 09-11-2005, 07:12 PM: Message edited by: Norske3 ]

[RonW]

PL is it, this is not a abbrevation but the name, check at your hardware or lumberyard, PL has different types of products, but they all say, believe it or not PL.

[maa. melee]

I'm planning on using PL on a stitch and glue plyboat for glueing the deadwood and spray skirts on. One question I have though is how well (if at all) the fiberglass wetted in epoxy will stick to it... anyone try it?

[Ralphw]

I use PL all the time in my carpentery trade, and believe me it does stick to anything

heres the link
PL Adhesives & Sealants (http://www.stickwithpl.com/products/products.asp)

I tried the fast cure version and same problem.
3 weeks later and it still swelled out of the joint. I wonder if it might have something to do with CPES or epoxy primer???

don't know, but I do know that I won't use it again for anything that'll show.

I did read about PL and other products tested in the topic "Are your glue joints repairable"

interesting....check it out.

[Norske3]

PL not affect by salt water? :confused:

[Matt Cohen]

according to my Jamestown Distributors (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/) catalog, for 5200 (p.72), it's paintable, sandable and waterproof.. the tack time is 48 hours, and cure time is 5-7 days.

My guess is it wasn't fully cured.