strip building glues

[Felix]

Before I start ripping and stripping my Wittholz 11' Dinghy I could use some advice concerning the glue to use between strips. The Cosine Wherry book says hot glue is sufficient but I have never taken that glue too seriously for real woodworking, just those little crafty things. Other places say Titebond or Titebond II. I would think epoxy even though I know the outer/inner "glass" will seal and hold it all together. Anybody out there have an opinion?

[capt jake]

Well, the stripper kayak I build was with Elmers carpenters glue. After you seal everything with epoxy and glss, the glue won't know that it is in water. smile.gif

Personally, I don't care for Titebond II, it's great stuff, just doesn't work well during glue up for me. smile.gif

[DavesFlatsBoat]

This is where polyurethane ought to shine - easy to use in caulk tubes - fast setting - just a bit gap filling - compatable with epoxy. But as always IMHO.

[NormMessinger]

Third opinion is a charm, Felix, to paraphrase a famous authority on tries.

Um, polyurethane glue is indeed gap filling, like froth. I wouldn't use it anywhere a tight joint was not possible. Yellow glue has a better tack than Titebond II which I would prefer since I don't normally use enough to stock both.

Hot glue! I'd burn the book that recommends the stuff for serious wood working based on limited experience since I formed this opinion early on.

Since as you say, the googue and glass is going to seal and reinforce the boat it does not really matter what glue you use. The epoxy may penetrate foamed up polyeurathane enough to strengthen it as well.

Just build the boat and don't worry 'cause all three of us are probably close enough.

Next.

[Tom Lathrop]

Hey Norm,

What do you mean relative to Titebond II? I've not had any problems with it and that would be my choice for strip building with an epoxy/glass sheath. Urethane (Gorilla) and hot melt would only be my choice if I were stranded on a desert island and that was all that was available. I might even favor coconut tree gum over hot melt.

[Walcheren]

Today we hauled out, from the crawl space, our two Wee Lassie's to get ready for the summer. I realised that they were built 15 years ago or so. The strips are still together, no problem anywhere. I used ordinary yellow glue. Of course the cedar is between two layers of epoxy which does not show any defect except from scrapes on the rocks. It does not seem to matter what you use. As long as the strips stick together untill you get the epoxy on. Dirk.

[riverboathank]

Felix,I've built the cosine wherry (a great rowing boat), and I too was shocked at the recommended use of hot melt glue. As a woodworker/carpenter, I swallowed my pride and tried it. It's meant to hold strips together until the good stuff arrives, sets in less than a minute, dinghy is stripped in no time. No, it's not "real woodworking", it's quick & dirty boatbuilding, my resulting dinghy survives years of abuse, and still draws compliments. Build it and use it, it ain't art, it's a tool. Strip on.

[abe]

Felix, I had the same question recently, and will be using Titebond, (not II which tends to stain cedar). It is recomended by one of our local kit suppliers, builders and designers.

http://www.newfound.com/nwnotes.htm

abe

[ 04-20-2003, 02:45 PM: Message edited by: abe ]

[NormMessinger]

Tom, is this the comment that you commented on: Yellow glue has a better tack than Titebond II which I would prefer since I don't normally use enough to stock both.

I thought it might not be clear when I wrote it but was to lazy to fix it. I prefer Titebond II. It works okay for most any glue job. Regular Titebond has better tack, that is when you join the glue surfaces the glue grabs sooner and requires fewer hands to hold it til the clamps are on.

It is hard to argue with success. Hot glue is good to temporarily tacking things together. This may well apply to canoe building if I can skew my perconcieved misconceptions of the stuff. A dab here and there to hold the strips in place until the epoxy can penetrate the loose joints and bond the assembly togeather.

For autoedification, I would be interested to know why regular Titebond would be recommended over Titebond II. What difference would it make? Seems to me one would be as good as the other. Is it the tack thing?

My first stripper was built in the late '70's, before epoxy came to be known to amature boat builders so it is glued with yellow glue and glassed with polystinky. It is holding up just fine. I'd use epoxy if I were doing it now, however.

There are lots of ways to skin a canoe.

[Tom Lathrop]

I do use hot melt a lot for holding bits and pieces in place while epoxy filets set up. Works great for that. Can see where it would be good for holding the strips is place for the same reason. I was put off by the thought of having to remove that rubbery mess sticking out of the joint. If used in small dabs that require no cleanup, it should make faster work of stripping. Would also allow the resin to penetrate the joints.

Part of my prejudice about hot melt comes from having to repair a multitude of things that fall apart that were assembled with it. Craft show people seem to use it on everything. Call it the Martha influence. Come to think of it, hot hide glue sets up just about as fast as plastic hot melt and sands easily too.

[Felix]

Thanks for all the responses. Can't believe the speed you all got back to me. Great comfort as I dive into this project, knowing there are folks out there that have been through anything I will run into and are ready to share. As an old woodworker(new boatbuilder) I have confidence and experience with both Titebond products and will probably go that way-- but not before I at least try the hot glue as I can see big advantages in the quick setup.
Never had much luck with Urathane--any place it has room to foam will be weak, it takes forever to set up (at least here in the desert)--- except in the container (poor shelf life)