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wharfrat
04-03-2003, 06:02 PM
I read somewhere (I thought it was here but after a search nothing turned up) that one should dilute teak oil for the first coat so it will encourage penetration. What I don’t remember is what to use. Was it paint thinners or turps or ……….?

Thanks to any and all who reply greatly appreciated

Dave Fleming
04-03-2003, 06:11 PM
Rat, how about telling us which brand you are planning to use?

wharfrat
04-04-2003, 09:35 AM
Dave

It's called Watco

wharfrat
04-04-2003, 09:37 AM
Dave
By the way my name is Wharf. Rat is my dad's name.

Todd Bradshaw
04-04-2003, 01:30 PM
I don't think it will improve the Watco Oil's performance. It's still a multiple coat building-up process. You might also be surprised how thin a high quality oil finish really is. I think we mislead ourselves (or the manufacturers hype misleads us) to think that the finish soaks deeply into the wood, which upon taking a sharp nail or a piece of sandpaper to the surface and scraping down to bare wood will generally show that it just doesn't happen.

Dave Fleming
04-04-2003, 05:09 PM
Well WR, IMOOP, I would be very leery of diluting something like Watco. In fact is Watco approved for exterior use, assuming that is what we are talking about? Since you are in the PacNoWest, I would look into my favourite oil, DALYS SeaFin Teak Oil. It is available in both interior and exterior formulas. Made right down the road in Seattle.
In fact, I used the older 'interior', as there was no other variety at the time, DALYS for a Cherry wood sign out side my shop in Anacortes. With a freshen up coat once a year it did fine for over 2 1/2 years hanging out there in the weather.
It does take more that one coat and as much as 7 coats to build up a good depth of finish. Using the 'slurry seal' approach I find works best with oils. Another one to consider but it does give a shellac or clear varnish look to things is Waterlox.

Scott Rosen
04-04-2003, 05:18 PM
If you must thin, then mineral spirits or turps would work fine. I've never been a fan of oil finishes on yachts, unless you are going to overcoat with varnish. But that's just me. For a workboat finish, don't waste your money on expensive teak oil. Make you own from boiled linseed oil, turps, pine tar and Japan Drier.

Rocky
04-04-2003, 07:55 PM
Speaking of which the pine tar I bought is tar. What do you do, stick it in the microwave?

Dave Fleming
04-04-2003, 08:00 PM
Rocky, Pine Tar, depending upon the maker can be almost solid to just about pourable.
Make a double boiler and OUTSIDE bring the Pine Tar to warm milk temp. It should pour then.
Don't use the microwave your wife will not be happy nor will you when next you go to use that device.