cheap poison

[kulas44]

Does anyone have a source for wood preservative that is less costly than $23 per gallon for cuprinol here. I really like the cuprinol, just hate paying the money. Thanks

[Dan McCosh]

Actually, that sounds cheap for copper-arsenic preservatives. You can't even buy Cuprinol around here anymore.

[Alan D. Hyde]

Some tire stores will give away used wheel weights, no charge.

These can be made into white or red lead, that is then used in paint.

There have been recent posts here detailing recipes, methods, and cautions. Used properly, there's nothing harmful about either white or red lead paint.

Alan

[Ken Hutchins]

Cuprinol should be the cheapest at Sherwin Williams stores, they bought Cuprinol a few years ago. There are cheaper brands but those have a lower % of the good copper stuff. Cuprinol has the highest % available that I know of.

[paladin]

Depends on what you're using it for...if it's fer a boat, build a tank large enough and submerge the wood in Styrene monomer...NUTHIN' lives in a styrene atmosphere....just let it air out properly..... :D

[Steve Lansdowne]

Alan, I believe you responded to the red lead paint post in the cheap poison post (adjacent to it on the posting list), or am I just totally confused?

[Mrleft8]

Are you planning on painting over this poison? If not, try a borate solution. I like Bora-Care, and Tim-Bor. Bora-Care is a glycol based solution, and Tim-Bor is a water based solution. Both absolutely work beautifully. I prefer the Bora-Care because it seems to penetrate better.

[Mrleft8]

Oops! For a REALLY cheap solution..... Get a box of 20 Mule team Borax, mix it with hot water and slosh it on.

[kulas44]

The boat is lapstrake, mahogany on bent oak. The ceiling was perforated wallboard, the kind you hang tools on in your shop, really cheap looking. I have pulled out all of that stuff and will be going back with a real ceiling. I've got 800 bd. ft. of teak lumber waiting to be cut up into 2 inch boards. I had planned to paint the hull first just for more rot protection but that's not really neccessary, it will be covered anyway. The ceiling will all be screwed so it can be removed for inspection. I plan to use cedar in all the lockers and storage spaces. I've had a hell of a time removeing everything that even looks like it's been close to anything rotten and don't want a recurrence. Any thoughts are very much apreciated.

[MarkC]

there is an article in Woodenboat 164 Feb 2002 p. 12 Richard Jagels 'Thwarting Rot - Safely' which discuses this (eg. 'pressure treatments using waterborne chemicals' and Fixed Salts / Safer Salts and the Ethylene glycol / Propylene glycol / borate discussion also. Also discusses painting and staining over wood preservatives in regard to toxins leaching - tests done by the US Govt. (paint proved 100% safe).

Good article.

[Mrleft8]

You'll be adding a lot of weight, going from pressboard to Teak. Just because something is covered doesn't mean it doesn't need to be painted. As a matter of fact, it probably needs to be painted even more. Any moisture that gets in, will be trapped in.

[kulas44]

good point, I would like to paint it. I just don't want to apply a preservative that interferes with the adhesion of my paint. I had thought about Carnelling it (antifreeze) but the silicone additives would make paint less than effective. I'm leaning towards a good latex exterior paint with some poison of sorts added. Your thoughts are apreciated.