I'm very, very vexed

[CaseyJones]

Have my chine & sheer temporarily in. Sheer came together beautifully. Chine has me perplexed.

Forward most ends of the chine logs. As they come thru frame #6, their natural path takes them almost to the breasthook. They are supposed to end approximately 10" down the stem. No matter how I twist them, they won't fit it.

http://209.221.152.253/fishpix/vexed1.jpg

I can only think of 2 options. 1~ trim them down until I can horse them into place. 2~ cut them off at frame #6 and replace them with an epoxy fillet inside with 3 layers of 17oz bi-ax. I'm sure y'all can add to my options.

http://209.221.152.253/fishpix/vexed2.jpg

[imported_Conrad]

Wrap them with towels, and pour boiling water on them, repeat, wait until softer....or:

Slice the forward 6' or so in half with a bandsaw or thin-kerf skil saw- make the cut vertical. Do not cut the halved section off of the rest of the chine log. Fill the kerf with epoxy, then force into position.

[ 01-25-2004, 05:32 PM: Message edited by: Conrad S. ]

[On Vacation]

While Conrad's way will probably allow for the chine batten to come into the position on the plans, it may not be a fair lead, throughout the whole batten. It may create a flat spot between the next one leading aft. You will need to do several things to ensure the same measurment on the bottom pieces, the same shape of the bottom. Unscrew the batten in the next two pieces, and let the cut piece find itself to the stem.

I would also fit a floater jig between the stem and the first jig or rib frame. When you go to apply the side panels, it may distort a little for that length of run. It maybe also that the first piece is cut wrong, or in the wrong place and will need to be further foward and this will change the sheer batten or flared out angle of the rib.

That jig needs a solid strongback under it, that appears to not be in place on the building frame, leading all the way fore and aft, to the rope locker area. This will allow you also to install a floater after getting the proper shape to your battens, while keeping a twist out of the boat, while installing one side, and screwing on place. If you are applying two pieces, on each side, place one in place, in the bow, screw enough in to hold in place and apply the other side next and do the same, rough screwing only and check to a good fair line..

When you do this, the side piece, upon cutting it, will have somewhat of a wider run in the area that will be screwed to the stem, than just back a foot or so. So do't be alarmed in this. The angle of the flare in the sides to the diference of the stem flare makes this requirement.

Also you will need to measure your running length of your batten between each rib, both sides to insure your boat is true along with both sides uniform in shape.

[ 01-25-2004, 04:59 PM: Message edited by: Oyster ]

[CK 17]

Can you post a side view? It almost looks like that forward most frame has no chine at all. I can't tell exactly where the stem meets the keel.

Joe Schena

[ 01-25-2004, 05:01 PM: Message edited by: joe schena ]

[On Vacation]

I think that piece is cut form one solid running plank, cutting some off the back side, leading up to the sheer batten. This make its hard to adjust any angle on the side, if not out far enough.

[CaseyJones]

Joe, that forward most frame (#6) has very little chine. There is a break of maybe 5deg. Could be evn less.

Mike, I'll have to read & re-read your thoughts before heading back out.

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the input.

[Banjo]

Call me simple if you want to....... smile.gif
But isn't it easier to bend on the chine rails when starting from the stem first?
Having the stem well anchored fit the rail to the stem and work your way towards the transom, this will give you more leverage and the rails will fall into a nice fair curve.
That was my understanding of the process, maybe I have had it wrong all this time?

Banjo.
Message edited to add the following picture.
Lots of good info here at Glen-L (http://www.glen-l.com)
http://www.glen-l.com/methods/plywood/plywood-fig7.jpg

[ 01-25-2004, 09:07 PM: Message edited by: Banjo ]

[On Vacation]

There is a lot of stress or pressure applied to the first rib, framing, with the batten being so thick. It will not compound bend without some distortion. You are correct in larger boats, and broader spans. With such minimal framing in each frame, it will not take much to fracture or twist the whole boat framing, as I see it. He could add some vee struts, from the bottom cross thwart up to the bottom frames and do some good, but this will not change the forces applied across to the other side and transmitted through the whole setup, as I see it.

[ken mcclure]

It's always easier to start fastening from the end with the greatest bend.

[On Vacation]

Well truth be known you will need stifeners from the first to the second on to hold in place, from being pushed aft, with that size batten, till you put the sides on the boat. This boat is only 18 foot, Anyone do a test bend with two feet span, and four feet to right angle. It ain't gona work right without tearing something up. He is using Cypress as the framing, so holding compound stress with fastners, on that bend is somewhat, well..

[ 01-25-2004, 08:41 PM: Message edited by: Oyster ]

[Paul Scheuer]

Well, the sheer looks good.

When I did the chines on my skiff, I did a cardboard model to see how much twist I was going to have to contend with. It turned out none in my case. Just the one bevel.

Steam might be part of the your solution, and the intermediate frame/jig mentioned above also sounds good. Maybe more than one.

You could also try it out with a more flexible piece to see which way the twists, etc. have to go.

[On Vacation]

Banjo, look at the distance of the first frame, the location of the first frame, supported by the main building hull. This boat has a huge bow deck design. The first frame is about half the distance than the one in the Glen-L shot. He can try it, but I can hear the splintering from my house, now, with his set up.

[Banjo]

Oyster, I here it too! smile.gif

Maybe a laminated stringer might be the only alternative, with the help of some hot towels?
Also in the case the glen-l guys there is plenty of room and two of them to keep the stress even on the frames.

Banjo.

[SteveFaehnle]

When I did the chine on my Jack Tar, I had to laminate the chine, use lots of hot water, and c-clamps to end up with a good fit at the stem, and no hard spots at the next station. It was a great deal of work. Be sure the station is correctly fit.