View Full Version : Barn Kits
Okay, it may get to where I have to build my own shop when we move. So I'm playing out my different options, keeping the cost in mind.
I've thought about this barn kit from Northern Tool.
Barn Kit (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTO S=on&productId=13186&categoryId=0)
If you get 3 kits it says you can make a 10' x 22' barn and all you have to do is square cut everything.
The 22' long is fine, but the 10' wide is kinda narrow. Since this kit is the connectors, whats to say that you don't make it 12' or even 14' wide? Add some collar beams up high with some knee braces and in my book that should be fine.
What think you?
The Sea Slug
06-21-2004, 07:19 AM
I think you probably have the carpentry skills necessary to build what you want with out the use of the little connector thingies. Another thing to think about is whether the 2x4 is strong enough to span the length ( width) you want. I'd look around on the net for some shed or barn plans.
Always build a much bigger building than you think youre going to need. It will always be too small.
06-21-2004, 08:09 AM
Repeat, "it will be too small" then you will have to build an add-on.
The Sea Slug
06-21-2004, 08:12 AM
Nice looking barn Ken. Did you put those doors on yourself? Ive wanted a barn with the rolling type doors-how do they work?
06-21-2004, 08:17 AM
C'mon Chad! What are you thinking? That's a friggin' tool shed for twinkies in suburban Maryland. You need a REAL building, not a knock it together with bent rusty nails piece of crap! Build a "post and nail" structure to the dimensions you want. It's cheaper than "conventional" framing, and much stronger. Rough sawn lumber, and sheet steel roofing. I built a 25'x35'x10'(wall height) addition on my 25'x45' barn a few years ago. Total cost was under $12,000. I bet a 14'x25'x10'(wall height) could be done for about $4,000. And it would look GOOD!
06-21-2004, 08:42 AM
A cheap method that I've wanted to try, for a shed with corrugated sheathing can be found in Fine Woodworking on Joinery ISBN 0-918804-25-6.
It's an adaptation of traditional lashed joinery of poles from Japan, but using galvanized wire. Access to cheap poles would be key, and it wouldn't be easily insulated.
06-21-2004, 08:45 AM
Gotta agree with leftorium, negatory on the sears model, go with rough lumber and p&b. Draw it up yourself and put in some artsy-fartsy style.
You don't need the fasteners (which might end up having the wrong angles anyway if you enlarge the plans.)
06-21-2004, 11:52 AM
These are all good ideas and good points. Let me add a few more details. Although I know you can never make it to big I am limited on my budget. Another thing, I've always liked connectors. When building my deck I used Simpson strong-tie connectors. Using the connectors gives a good strong connection and make it easier for one person to do the job (which is what happens in my case).
Not worried about the angles being wrong. If I enlarge it, it will just make the peak higher. Making it wider will also put more load on the 2x4 framing, thus the collar beam with the knee brace.
If I could I would build a bigger barn, whether it be a pole barn or a convential framed barn.
06-21-2004, 01:48 PM
Chad; What is your budget and what sized building are you going after?
Here's some food for thought (12'x18'):
The plans are quite cheap.
Alan D. Hyde
06-21-2004, 01:53 PM
Chad, I'd suggest you identify and talk with local portable sawmill (e.g., WoodMizer) guys.
With local wood, you can build a bigger, stronger, and less expensive version, configured as a pole barn.
Any part of a pole barn may be built by one man, although with two, it will go up more than two times as fast. Each set of gambrel rafter bents may be made up on the loft floor, and then lifted up one at a time. (Have temporary blocks nailed on the plate in front of the birdsmouth to keep the bent from sliding as you lift it up; nail the top thru a ridgeboard with the proper location pre-marked and also temporarily stopped by a block.)
Any kit is marked-up.
It's a bargain only for those who can't do better. YOU can!
[ 06-21-2004, 02:57 PM: Message edited by: Alan D. Hyde ]
You can do better.
Look at the shed on the right; four 9' 2x4 gives you walls and roof, 24' span on the ground, 8' clear for 16'. (very roughly, a triangle 4'+8'+9')
With 8' members, (3.8'+7'+8') you'd have 7' clear for 14', 20' on the ground. (again, very roughly)
And you'd need two more 8' for the truss cords, one on each side, which would cut out some of that space I called clear earlier.
06-21-2004, 08:54 PM
Did I put the doors on myself? Yes, the doors are each on 2 sets of 4 wheel trollies that run inside a pipe with a slot cut lengthwise. I got the hardware from the local farm supply emporium, Stanley also makes this type of hardware but about double the price.
Well, I guess this is kinda of a moot point now. Everything is going good with the house that has a shop and it looks like I will not have to build a new one.
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