View Full Version : Fastening Frames to Floors
I'm a bit stumped as to how I'm going to be able to drill the 1" x 1" steamed frames to the floors in the following photo. Each floor is 7.5" from the next, and I can't see anyway that I can drill reasonably straight enough through both frame and floor because of the confined space and the surrounding frames. In other words, the floors are so close together, that you can't get any kind of drill that I know of to do the job. I'm sure this is one of the reasons that the Herreshoffs built these boats (Buzzards Bay 14 and H12 1/2) with a mold at each station. However, I know this method has been done before (see Chip Flanagan's website web page (http://www.chipboat.com) ) and I'm wondering if there's a special drill needed for this type of thing. I guess I was so worried about steaming the frames (which hasn't been a problem at all) and I hadn't expected trouble drilling for the rivets. Any thoughts?
[ 10-02-2004, 11:28 PM: Message edited by: DanO ]
10-02-2004, 11:26 PM
How about an angle drill:
They are available in corded models, cordless models and pneumatic models...
If you don't want to buy one maybe you could find a tool rental place that carries them.
Edited to fix the photo...oops!
[ 10-02-2004, 11:38 PM: Message edited by: Bruce Hooke ]
Hey Bruce, that was fast! Your photo didn't come out, though. Check the image URL info. Thanks.
10-03-2004, 01:34 AM
Or this, it is 'tailed' though.
10-03-2004, 07:20 PM
I saw a 90 degree chuck that fits into an existing drill that does the same thing as buying a separate drill for that purpose. Can't say whether they still make 'em.
10-03-2004, 07:26 PM
I should note that I posted a picture of a cordless drill just because it was the first good picture I could find of an angle drill. Unless I anticipated using it a LOT down the road or anticipated using it someplace far from convenient power this is one place were I would definitely get a corded drill such as the one in Dave Fleming's post. A corded drill would likely be cheaper as well as better at powering through all that hardwood.
You guys gave me some pretty good ideas. I just found this online at Sears. For $15, I'll give it a try. I'm just drilling a 9/64 hole 2" deep (times 44 frames). I'll let you know if it works out OK.
10-04-2004, 12:20 AM
Is that unit less than 5.25" front to back? If it's not (it does not look quite that big, but it's a bit hard to judge from the picture) then you won't be able to fit it into your 7.5" spaces once you put a 2.25" long drill bit into it.
10-04-2004, 06:21 AM
And if you use one of the "add-ons" be sure not to put pressure on the drill but rather on the angle itself.
The drills are not made to handle sideways pressure.
Those angle attachments can be a big help in some applications, but I'd suggest drilling some practice holes first. Because of the unsupported link between the drill & the 90deg. attachement you can get some realy funky torsional forces in suprising directions as soon as the drill bit starts to bind. :eek: As one who has used both a real right angle drill, and the right angle drill attachment I can assure you they are like night & day. (In other words I'd see if I can beg , borrow, or whatever, a real right ange drill for these holes.)
Just to close the loop on this problem, I did try the drill attachment tonight. There's very little room even with this 90 degree attachment. In order to do accomplish this, I have to insert the bit all the way into the chuck, drill, loosen, draw it partially, tighten, drill some more, etc so I can eventually drill the full 2", but you know what...it works. So far anyway. I agree that a real angle drill is probably the way to go. Thanks for the advice...
Originally posted by DanO:
For $15, I'll give it a try... http://content.sears.com/data/product_images/009/26271/00926271000-190.jpg
DanOr you could just borrow it from my dentist.
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