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dposner
12-01-2018, 11:30 PM
hello once again. i'm beginning to ponder the rigging in my shellback dinghy. the plans and the accompany construction book are vague on two things. The Author tried to explain how he rigged the outhaul, and both the photos and the print that accompanies it is difficult to follow. The second issue is that the halyard appears to just pass thru a hole drilled thru the top of the mast. That seems like a relatively primitive way to have any sheet move smoothly. Shouldn't a pulley be affixed to the upper mast? I'd appreciate it if there are any of you who are reading this who have built a similar boat ( standing lug) could send me some close up photos of any the rigging you're done that could be helpful. Here on the north shore of Long Island it's fiberglass only; not one small wooden boat to give me inspiration in sight.

Thanks

David

beam reach
12-02-2018, 12:08 AM
https://www.storerboatplans.com/tuning/lug-rig-setup/goat-island-skiff-rig-and-rigging-details-for-efficient-lug-sails/

dposner
12-02-2018, 08:54 AM
that's great, and just as i thought- the top of the mast had a "dead eye", and not just a hole to put the haylard thru thanks

Thorne
12-02-2018, 09:41 AM
Not sure what you mean by "dead eye", but I'm also not a fan of bee holes, aka "hole in the wood to run a halyard through" - I much prefer blocks / sheaves.

As long as you have the extra few inches of mast height you can try lashing a block to the mast top, either through the existing hole or just onto the top section. I did the former for awhile on my dory skiff, then when I wanted more blocks I put a mast band up which works quite well.

http://www.luckhardt.com/masthead1.jpg http://www.luckhardt.com/masthead2.jpg

Dusty Yevsky
12-02-2018, 11:26 AM
I suppose it comes down to personal preference but a beehole works great for smaller sails. I have a couple of boats that have lug sails of 50 and 90 sf and they're easy to hoist and lower via a beehole. The key is having a large smooth radius where the halyard exits the hole. Simple and foolproof. I'm of the less-is-more school when it comes to rigging though.

Jay Greer
12-02-2018, 02:37 PM
The old rigger I learned from, John Pearson, once told me , "never use a sheave or a block when a lizard,bull's eye, fairlead, or a bee hole will do."
Bull's eyes, lizards and fairleads are best made of lignum Vitae or Delrin. The lignum Vitae will out last the Delrin in most cases. Here is an example of it being used for leading a flag halyard. The wooden fitting is simple to make using a round over router bit that is chucked into a drill press. A hole saw is first used to cut the outer diameter almost through the wood followed by the router bit to smooth the inside. The part it then freed from the plank by re-cutting with the hole saw. The part is then mounted on a mandril and mounted in a lathe or the press in order to cut the round outer mortis to fit the strap. The inner edge here was flattened to make a good contact. Variations of the process can be used to make components of any size needed. I prefer the wood over Delrin in this case.
Jay
https://uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/001079903521/media/23257151521/medium/1503801282/enhance