View Full Version : Teak Filler

03-13-2002, 09:25 PM
I did a search on this, but I'm still confused. What kind of wood filler should I use to fill the screw holes (and a few other related holes/gouges) in a piece of varnished teak? I lost a bow chock, am replacing both, and the new ones don't line up with the old holes. The filler would ideally have screw-holding strength and blend in somewhat with the varnished teak. Guidance appreciated. smile.gif

Art Read
03-13-2002, 10:17 PM
Got any scrap teak handy? I'd think filling the holes with teak "plugs", being careful to match the grain orientation up, would be best. Think "deep" bungs like you usually see covering screws. Get a nice fit and push 'em with a dollop of epoxy. Should be just as strong as the surrounding wood for re-fastening.

[ 03-14-2002, 01:07 PM: Message edited by: Art Read ]

03-14-2002, 07:29 AM
Yeah, Art, that makes a lot of sense. Thanks. For some reason I had putty on my mind and didn't even think of epoxying in a new piece. I suppose I'll have to enlarge the holes a bit to accommodate the new teak pieces/bungs. Much obliged.

Scott Rosen
03-14-2002, 01:04 PM
I've filled holes with bungs as Art suggests. It works fine and looks good. If the hole isn't round, you just have to get your drill out and round it up.

03-15-2002, 08:31 PM
Not sure how many holes you are talking about, but Lee Valley/ Veritas out of Canada has a slick doo-hickey they call "The plugger" It's a boring bit with a 16 degree taper, same as a pencil sharpener. You just bore out the old hole, sharpen up your plug, gob in a little epoxy and trim off the end. Sells for $12.50 American. Part number is 05J14.01. You can contact them at www.leevalley.com. (http://www.leevalley.com.)

Good luck

03-16-2002, 06:22 PM
The "Plugger" is indeed a nice tool for renewing screw holes. But if the plugged holes will show, there are two caveats: You might have trouble finding teak dowels from which to make the tapered plugs; and dowels have the grain going the wrong way for plugs that show. Cut properly, bungs have the right grain orientation that can match closely the wood surface. And teak bungs can be bought, or made with an ordinary plug cutter. They should be cut at 90 degrees from the grain orientation.

03-16-2002, 08:10 PM
er, um...good point. :D