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dposner
08-09-2018, 09:04 PM
The project continues. I'm spending time looking at the lovely outwales and inwales i've finished attaching to my shellback. I'd like to protect them with a rub rail placed at just around the lower end of sheer plank. A few questions; 1)how do you attach it and when do you attach it in order for it to be replaceable? What to make it out of? I've heard about making it out of oak, laminated fir, mahogany, rope; any suggestions?

thanks

David

Mo 'Poxy
08-09-2018, 10:32 PM
On my kayaks, for rubrails I used 1/4 x 3/4 painted red oak strips, fastened with SS woodscrews countersunk to finish flush. Still working great a decade or so later.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g-8X3p7y9FU/ViqrsWUV4sI/AAAAAAAACaM/B_Xm2VGv2uI/s1600/rubrail1.jpg


On a dory I epoxied 3/4 4 poxy/glass-covered red oak rubrails to the plywood hull. Hasn't worked out very well: rub rails are separating from the hull and the fg/poxy is peeling off of the oak. Seems like I am suffering a poxy-oak disagreement.

Canoeyawl
08-09-2018, 11:49 PM
When I have done that I line it out on the lofting to keep the sheer plank from appearing "heavy", and fit it to the hull with a rebate. This way it can be a fairly good sized piece of wood. I also make it slightly heavier than the upper rub rail. Sort of a "tumble home" effect.
Make it out of whatever hardwood I had on hand with long lengths and interlocking grain. Teak, Mahogany, White Oak, etc. The combination of the two rubrails rebated makes the boat quite a bit stronger right there. I have taken one significant blow while tied to a pier by an errant yacht late at night, with only minor cosmetic damage and was surprised at how well they deflected the blow.

dposner
08-10-2018, 05:14 AM
When I have done that I line it out on the lofting to keep the sheer plank from appearing "heavy", and fit it to the hull with a rebate. This way it can be a fairly good sized piece of wood. I also make it slightly heavier than the upper rub rail. Sort of a "tumble home" effect.
Make it out of whatever hardwood I had on hand with long lengths and interlocking grain. Teak, Mahogany, White Oak, etc. The combination of the two rubrails rebated makes the boat quite a bit stronger right there. I have taken one significant blow while tied to a pier by an errant yacht late at night, with only minor cosmetic damage and was surprised at how well they deflected the blow.

Thanks so much; but you are clearly in the world of boat building a mercedes to me being a yugo. Hence if you can explain "line it out on the lofting",and "fit to the hull with a "rebate" I'd appreciate it. Also do you steam bend the hardwood before attaching it? As in the movie in which denzel Washington tells the witness to "talk to him like hes a six year old", could you talk to me like a six year old? thanks David

wizbang 13
08-10-2018, 09:06 AM
How much abuse are you expecting?

Canoeyawl
08-10-2018, 09:41 AM
Thanks so much; but you are clearly in the world of boat building a mercedes to me being a yugo. Hence if you can explain "line it out on the lofting",and "fit to the hull with a "rebate" I'd appreciate it. Also do you steam bend the hardwood before attaching it? As in the movie in which denzel Washington tells the witness to "talk to him like hes a six year old", could you talk to me like a six year old? thanks David

Well much of that would be like writing a book, and there are far better sources than me for that!
The "rebate" refers to a rubrail rail on the lower edge of the sheerplank on a lapstrake hull. It is sort of a half lap over the the next plank. So if the planking was 1/2" and the rubrail was proud of the sheerplank by say 3/4" with a rebate it would actually be 1-1/4" molded.
Steaming or not will depend on the hull, but you will be surprised how far you can bend a good piece of wood. Typically you would not have to unless it is perhaps a double ender with a well rounded stern. I usually go for broke and if it fails or breaks, then steam it.
(Note that rubrails are usually tapered both in plan view and in profile)

dposner
08-10-2018, 05:14 PM
that's very helpul and now I understand what you mean by rebate. one other question, if a rub rail's purpose is to be a sacrificial piece of wood to act as a bumper in a boat, how should one attach it; I assume with a method such that it can be removed one day and replaced which would mean to attach it with screws from the inside of the hull, over the hull once the hull is finished? Or do you just epoxy it on and chisel it off if it every needs replacing, or do you just repair it one the boat by cutting out the damaged part with a chisel ?

thanks

David

wizbang 13
08-10-2018, 05:27 PM
Is your Shellback a stand alone yacht or a tender ?

dposner
08-10-2018, 05:32 PM
stand alone..."yacht" that's a nice name for it.

dposner
08-10-2018, 05:33 PM
stand alone yacht that I'm building for my very novice niece and nephew, I expect they'll smash into stuff.

Canoeyawl
08-10-2018, 09:49 PM
On small craft I glue them, a power plane will take it off in short order. You would have to hit something pretty hard to have to replace it, 20-30 years is not unreasonable.

dposner
08-11-2018, 06:25 AM
that great, and that is what I'll do. And what do you make yours out of? thanks

david

Canoeyawl
08-11-2018, 11:23 AM
Anything tough and long with an interlocking grain that is on hand.
(African Mahogany is usually available in 20 foot lengths here.)

signalcharlie
08-11-2018, 09:21 PM
How about a bronze quarter oval?

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tB5mHKyZ9bQ/WFn0n-xyj9I/AAAAAAAATgU/94oYhPLpSB0zBxUl851K66xszCHAauT1wCLcB/s1600/IMG_0193.JPG

SaltyLittleSchooner
08-12-2018, 09:47 AM
Mine is a half round piece of mahogany - about 1"
21036

wizbang 13
08-12-2018, 10:26 AM
Jebus, don't be coming alongside a bigger yacht with a bronze half thing with screw heads stickin out !
Salty Little Schooner looks better.Simpler. Lighter.

navydog
08-12-2018, 10:53 AM
If you want to protect your boat and other boats this is probably the best you can buy.
http://www.taylormadeproducts.com/cgi-bin/catalog.pl?item_id=111

dposner
08-12-2018, 11:10 AM
that is probably the best you can buy; but I have these beautiful mahogany rails, I hate to cover them up , so what I'd like to do is at the bottom of the sheer plank put a piece of hardwood and just let that get banged up.

David

navydog
08-12-2018, 11:23 AM
That's ok if there is no flair on the bow, but if there is it will require a big rail to stick out far enough to catch everything coming it's way. Of course that means it will be easier to break off under a dock and difficult to make it look good.

Some how having a rub rail to protect the rub rail seems like overkill.

SaltyLittleSchooner
08-12-2018, 11:24 AM
The rubrail on my shellback never touches anything - the contact point with my boat and other boats is the gunnel guard. This is also usually the case with docks. The rub rail is really aesthetic. I assume that you are planning to put yours where mine is.