PDA

View Full Version : Hartley TS16 restoration



chrisb79
08-02-2018, 09:52 PM
I'm going to keep an ongoing blog in this thread about my restoration of a Hartley TS16.

I bought her for 1000 NZD (approx 670 USD) in April. She is basically sound and well built, but there are a few problems to sort out before using her in Spring (I live in New Zealand so Spring is Sept/Oct).

First of all some pictures from the online auction I bought her from:

20461

20457

20458

20459

20460

chrisb79
08-02-2018, 09:58 PM
The existing forestay was in a poor state, with a lot of fraying around the crimps. I ordered a replacement from Seaview Sails (https://www.seaviewsails.co.nz/) in Plimmerton along with some lugs and clips for the mainsail that were missing.

20462

chrisb79
08-02-2018, 10:15 PM
First job was to remove the old rubber fender strips which water had been getting behind for a long while. Once there it was trapped. There was a good few mm of nasty rotten wood and dodgy looking holes. I drilled the holes out and filled them with dowel, and painted it with Rot Stopper (http://homesafeproducts.co.nz/product/rot-stopper-to-stop-the-rot/). I'd never used it before but the results are quite impressive, the soggy dark wood is good again after planing back and treating.

20464

Next job was the winch eye. The winch was way out of alignment with the eye (more on that later) which meant that not only was the eye bolt banana shaped, but the area around it was damaged. Nothing major just a bit of filling and glassing to do.

20466

Final job was pull up the flooring and remove all the foam buoyancy. I'm not going to use foam myself, it seems to prevent airflow and trap moisture. My old boat had plastic bottles under the flooring which I much prefer. Any thoughts?

20468

chrisb79
08-02-2018, 10:21 PM
20472

20473

chrisb79
08-02-2018, 10:35 PM
I filled the bilge with water to check for leaks and there were a couple. One was just back from the stem which revealed a small crack in the garboard. That should be easily fixed.

The second was seeping down through the centreboard case, most likely at the bottom of the logs. I'm planning to tighten up the bolts and glass the area, along with a novel approach to fixing from the inside (watch this space).

To fix the centerboard case meant pulling the centerboard out which is reasonably easy from the inside. I just used a couple of g-clamps to walk it up and out backwards. I did it on my own but it would be easier with two.

20474

20477

20476

andrewpatrol
08-02-2018, 11:04 PM
Good luck with your repairs Chris. I know from previous ownership theres not much room in the centercase. Look forward to your success

FishoutaFlorida
08-03-2018, 12:17 AM
Thanks for the photo's Chris! Building a TS14 and it's nice to see a similar boat with some miles under the keel. Very interested in your progress!

Eric

chrisb79
08-03-2018, 03:23 AM
Good luck with your repairs Chris. I know from previous ownership theres not much room in the centercase. Look forward to your success

Thanks! I have a fairly good idea of how to tackle the centerboard case, don't want to go into details just yet because I need to have a good look at it first.

chrisb79
08-03-2018, 03:25 AM
Thanks for the photo's Chris! Building a TS14 and it's nice to see a similar boat with some miles under the keel. Very interested in your progress!

The TS14 is a good boat. I used to own one. Have you been keeping a blog of your build? I'd be keen to have a look. Cheers.

FishoutaFlorida
08-03-2018, 10:38 AM
The TS14 is a good boat. I used to own one. Have you been keeping a blog of your build? I'd be keen to have a look. Cheers.

Certainly,

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?234678-More-Hartley

Enjoy!

chrisb79
08-03-2018, 08:09 PM
Certainly,

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?234678-More-Hartley

Enjoy!

Looking fantastic! I don't know if you remember but you mentioned the TS14 project I had posted some time ago. Sadly that boat got sold in the end, too much rot and on top of a frame that was not built as well as it could have been.

They are great boats though and forgiving, I capsized mine losing both crew overboard and she popped back up on her own.

I've subscribed to your thread, look forward to seeing your progress.

p.s. Real shame you don't live in NZ, I've got a very nice spare TS14 trailer in the yard!

FishoutaFlorida
08-04-2018, 12:32 PM
p.s. Real shame you don't live in NZ, I've got a very nice spare TS14 trailer in the yard!

Hmmmm, maybe a visit to NZ is in order?

Keep up the good work on the TS16!

Eric

Paul G.
08-04-2018, 01:00 PM
One way to deal with CB leaks is to carefully drill a hole through the cleat at the base of the CB case in the vicinity of suspected leaks, if you're careful you can feel the drill go from the solid wood to the ply. It will 'give" slightly or you can measure the depth on the drill bit, then fill the hole with your preferred sealant and then hammer a dowel in. This will force sealant into the voids (if any) and stop the leaks. Obviously the best way is to to remove it and re-bed everything but this method works well and can last a long time.

Larks
08-04-2018, 03:49 PM
Wow Chris, for $1k Kiwi she’s in terrific shape - well done and congratulations!!

I like Paul G’s CB leak repair idea - much easier and simpler than mine was.

I’m looking forward to seeing the work you do on her,

Greg

Peerie Maa
08-04-2018, 04:34 PM
One way to deal with CB leaks is to carefully drill a hole through the cleat at the base of the CB case in the vicinity of suspected leaks, if you're careful you can feel the drill go from the solid wood to the ply. It will 'give" slightly or you can measure the depth on the drill bit, then fill the hole with your preferred sealant and then hammer a dowel in. This will force sealant into the voids (if any) and stop the leaks. Obviously the best way is to to remove it and re-bed everything but this method works well and can last a long time.

Rather than hammering a dowel, screw in a grease nipple and pump the goop in. That way you can inject more than one holes worth of goop. Stop when you see the goop squeezing out of the leak path.

Gwidders
08-06-2018, 02:34 AM
Watching with interest.

looks in pretty good condition for that price!
I purchased a TS16 in April this year to race this summer in Sydney Australia. I've always been keen on TS16's so i'm really looking forward to my first sail in a couple of weeks.

My work on the boat has been fairly minor to date with a bit of strengthening in places and patching a hole I managed to put in the hull on the first attempt to go for a sail... The trailer has had more work than the boat with a new crossbeam, springs and paint job. I'm not planning on doing much more for the first racing season but i'm sure i'll find bits and pieces to clean up in 2019.

20667

Johnywallter
08-08-2018, 04:42 AM
Designers' published weight or displacement figures are often imprecise.
The published displacement (https://flipboard.com/@maxgoodz/top-20-best-mattress-under-500-review-2019-6c0rfksgy)for the Hartley TS16 is 800 lbs. I'd be surprised if that were the weight of boat in sailing kit with people and stores aboard.
For this design, what is realistic for:
- an empty weight
- with gear and ready to add people and stores.

chrisb79
08-23-2018, 11:02 PM
One way to deal with CB leaks is to carefully drill a hole through the cleat at the base of the CB case in the vicinity of suspected leaks, if you're careful you can feel the drill go from the solid wood to the ply. It will 'give" slightly or you can measure the depth on the drill bit, then fill the hole with your preferred sealant and then hammer a dowel in. This will force sealant into the voids (if any) and stop the leaks. Obviously the best way is to to remove it and re-bed everything but this method works well and can last a long time.

Thanks, I like your idea but you've inspired a potentially dangerous thought... I hadn't considered completely removing the case before but now you mention it...

I popped out and had a quick look, it actually doesn't look that hard. It would be wonderful to have a completely restored and re-bedded case. It would add a few weeks to the project but could add years to the boat.

Do you have any experience of pulling the case completely?


Wow Chris, for $1k Kiwi shes in terrific shape - well done and congratulations!!

I like Paul Gs CB leak repair idea - much easier and simpler than mine was.

Im looking forward to seeing the work you do on her,

Greg

Thanks! I found out last night that the topsides aren't even glassed as assumed, it's a wonder that she's in such good condition.

Please keep an eye on the thread, I'd appreciate your experience as I've got a few problems to sort out.


Rather than hammering a dowel, screw in a grease nipple and pump the goop in. That way you can inject more than one holes worth of goop. Stop when you see the goop squeezing out of the leak path.

I like this idea! Any recommendation for a pump system? My grease gun is never going to be clean again and I don't want to buy another unless there's some way of cleaning off all the excess sealant. What did you use?


Watching with interest.

looks in pretty good condition for that price!
I purchased a TS16 in April this year to race this summer in Sydney Australia. I've always been keen on TS16's so i'm really looking forward to my first sail in a couple of weeks.

My work on the boat has been fairly minor to date with a bit of strengthening in places and patching a hole I managed to put in the hull on the first attempt to go for a sail... The trailer has had more work than the boat with a new crossbeam, springs and paint job. I'm not planning on doing much more for the first racing season but i'm sure i'll find bits and pieces to clean up in 2019.

20667

Well I'm a little jealous that you actually get to use yours! It looks great, I'm going for a slightly darker blue on mine so it's nice to see what a blue hull looks like. I'm going to fit tinted perspex too eventually, Sleek look and a bit of privacy.


Designers' published weight or displacement figures are often imprecise.
The published displacement (https://flipboard.com/@maxgoodz/top-20-best-mattress-under-500-review-2019-6c0rfksgy)for the Hartley TS16 is 800 lbs. I'd be surprised if that were the weight of boat in sailing kit with people and stores aboard.
For this design, what is realistic for:
- an empty weight
- with gear and ready to add people and stores.

Because the vast majority of these boats were homebuilt with a variety of locally sourced materials and with variations on the spec, I don't know if I can help you there.

It might help to know why you ask. If it's towing weight, there's few cars which couldn't tow one (although caution would be needed at ramps). If you already own one, most transfer stations (rubbish dumps) in NZ will let you use their weighbridge for a few $. Might be the same wherever you are. I am going to get mine weighed at some point but not just yet.

You could try starting a new thread about it, more people might see it that way.

Having tried to move it off its trailer on my own, I'd estimate about 8 metric tons (see below) ;)

chrisb79
08-23-2018, 11:15 PM
Fibreglass delivery:

21793

Removing all the nasty wood from the cabin and bilge:

21794

The ballast was either side of this section under the compression post and was still holding water about 6 weeks after I moved the boat to the shed. A lot of this was rotten but somehow the keelson is fine. I've ripped it all out and will replace as necessary. I'll change the design though; the original will stop water flowing out and is not good for airflow.

21795

The winch assembly, which I will sort out eventually:

21796

chrisb79
08-23-2018, 11:25 PM
I was increasingly frustrated trying to work under and around the trailer so in the end I decided to build a cradle on wheels. In my small workshop I can only work on one side of the boat at a time, so this will allow me to easily spin it round but be able to get at any part of the boat, save the very bottom of the keel.

It was a bit of fuss and expense but I'm so glad I did it. I should only need to tip the boat once now and think I'll get away without having to roll her at all.

The pictures are sequential during the construction and shifting of the boat. All done on my own with the help of a come-along. Didn't even have the winch on the trailer.

21797

21799

21800

With the aft cradle installed just under the keel (gap was approx 20mm), I tied the boat off to a ground anchor at the back of the workshop and the rudder mount. Caution is needed here not to damage the rudder mount or transom, but the boat was on rollers so there was minimal force on either, it slid off easily when I moved the trailer off with my ute.

21802

chrisb79
08-23-2018, 11:31 PM
Trailer removed to midships. Just a bit more to go then I slipped the forward cradle under the keel and let the boat slide down onto it.

21806

21807

A lot of effort, but I'd never have all that access to the hull on a trailer.

21808

I am going to add supports for the bow. She is pretty sturdy just with the aft supports but better to be safe, and to spread the load on the hull.

Thanks for all the comments and encouragement, it's great for my motivation! Will add another update soon.

Larks
08-24-2018, 03:38 AM
A very clever solution and well worth the effort, nicely done.

FishoutaFlorida
08-24-2018, 08:29 PM
Looking good Chris! It's nice to be able to roll it around at will, isn't it?

Eric

Don MacLeod
08-25-2018, 03:09 PM
You can obtain the NZ Hartley 16 class measurement rules on this website; http://www.sporty.co.nz/hartley16class/Class-Docs#
Now this is for the racing Hartleys and they have a minimum weight of the hull of 363kg (800lb).
Crew when racing is 2 persons. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrB-1rLQDuo
They are an excellent all round boat.

tdem
08-27-2018, 03:43 AM
Keep thinking I'm looking at our boat. Same shade of yellow, same windows, same compression post. Keep the updates coming!

chrisb79
08-27-2018, 04:22 AM
A very clever solution and well worth the effort, nicely done.

Thanks Larks! It was a lot of effort but worth it in the long run.


Looking good Chris! It's nice to be able to roll it around at will, isn't it?

Absolutely, and great to be able to choose a tool that's best for the job rather than what will fit between the trailer parts!


You can obtain the NZ Hartley 16 class measurement rules on this website; http://www.sporty.co.nz/hartley16class/Class-Docs#
Now this is for the racing Hartleys and they have a minimum weight of the hull of 363kg (800lb).
Crew when racing is 2 persons. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrB-1rLQDuo
They are an excellent all round boat.

Thanks Don, I've also decided to order the plans for the boat to help with a few decisions.


Keep thinking I'm looking at our boat. Same shade of yellow, same windows, same compression post. Keep the updates coming!

Do you still have your boat tdem? I see you're in NZ so it's possible I could have bought it if you got rid of it at some point.

Tangusso
08-27-2018, 01:31 PM
Very cool little boat!