View Full Version : Rozinante rescue

Columbia 112
10-21-2005, 09:16 AM
I bought, sight unseen, a Rozinante off Ebay and what a great feeling it is to have her. At first I thought that just getting all the original fittings was worth the price but now I've fallen in love and plan to restore her.

Here is the plan.

1 - Get a survey. I know, should have done that in the first place but the price was right. Hull looks really sound and she was floating without a hint of leaks.

2 - Deck needs work. Toe rail and a few other little trim bits need replacing. The canvas needs replacing.

3 - New masts. Glue lines looked iffy and the mizzen foot and boom were rotten.

1 2 3 and in the water - right ? I think not but here's wishing.

So here is my first question to the fourm. I'm thinking of taking the hull down to wood and picking out the paying in the seams (topside seams are really dry and cracked and falling out), repaying and painting her. Do I need to prime topsides and bottom with red lead?

Joe (SoCal)
10-21-2005, 09:26 AM
Originally posted by Columbia 112:
I bought, sight unseen, a Rozinante off Ebay....

Here is the plan......

1 2 3 and in the water - right ? I think not but here's wishing.

Ahh first post and he sounds just like me with Dove last YEAR

Good Luck and Rozinante's are BEAUTIFUL droooool ;)

I'm sure some people with serious knowledge will be along soon with some real advice. I'm just here to cheer you on with enthusiasm - Welcome to the club ;)

Columbia 112
10-21-2005, 12:00 PM
Here's a photo to give you a feel for the condition she's in. When pulled she had been in the water for two years.


[ 10-21-2005, 07:01 PM: Message edited by: Columbia 112 ]

Bob Cleek
10-21-2005, 01:26 PM
Get the survey first. Then find a good mentor who knows what they are doing. Like a retired pro. PLEASE!

DO NOT mess with the seams. If the putty is a bit funky, scrape out the old loose stuff (without gouging the plank edges or tearing into the cotton) and putty over it. This is routine in the course of a topside paint job. No need to wood the topsides unless the paint is really built up and/or not sticking. Sand fair, prime and finish paint it. Open topside seams are common when boats sit without being sailed. They will swell back up.

Do one project at a time. Don't bite off more than you can chew or you will be selling a "project boat" in short order!

Columbia 112
10-21-2005, 02:19 PM
Bob, as far as the seams, yes that's what I was planning, just pick out the odd loose bits of putty and redo it, don't want to disturb the caulking. Paint, top and bottom is really thick and blistered and flaking off in places. The entire waterline is raw wood. Taking it down to the wood was, I guess, a way of seeing what condition the wood was in.
I see that you're from the Bay area maybe you can help track down the history of the boat. "Iolanthe" was built in your neck of the woods and as far as I know lived there all her life since 1968.

10-21-2005, 04:36 PM
Do you know what antifoul she was using? the underwater areas looks pretty good for two years in the water. Nice boat!

Columbia 112
10-21-2005, 05:01 PM
Don't know what type of antifouling. I was warning my friend helping me to haul the boat that we were in for a long and dirty job scrubbing two years worth of fouling off. So when she came out looking like that we both were quit happy. Either it's really good (BAD) paint or there's nothing left alive in the marina water.

10-21-2005, 05:07 PM
At all costs, get the boat in the water and sail it next season. Your love for it will grow deeper and the rest of the work will come easy.

Bob Cleek
10-21-2005, 07:26 PM
I do have a vague recollection of a Roz named Iolanthe. Can't remember from where or when. Yep, if the paint is blistering, stripping is likely in order. You may get away with sanding if it isn't too bad, but that takes skill with a disk sander. Better to strip it all with a heat gun, or, if you are man enough, a propane torch. Sand then and prime with CPES, fairing compound on the dings and then undercoat and finish. She doesn't look all that bad from the pictures.

And... in case you had other plans, don't go tossing the spars. They may be repairable. You can disassemble them (carefully) with hardwood wedges driven (carefully) into the open seams. If you are lucky, she will come apart cleanly. You can then reassemble them with epoxy adhesive. The rotten spots can be replaced with scarfed material. They'll be good as new.

10-22-2005, 10:28 AM
Beautiful boat! Congratulations to you.

Get her surveyed and assemble your to-do list. If stripping to wood is still on your agenda, I would highly reccomend looking into this paint removing tool:


It's called the marine shaver pro from the folks at American International Tool (http://www.paintshaver.com/). I have the land-lubber's version (not sure what the difference is - different type of blade, perhaps?) called the paint-shaver pro. If your time is worth anything at all, this is a god-send. I was able to remove 95% of the paint off of this face of my house in about 45 minutes using it.



It strips the face of the clapbord and the underside of the clapboard above as you move along from right to left. Getting in by the trim and windows with a heat gun and scraper took an additional 6 hours or so. This is a cutting tool, not an abrasive grinder, so it doesn't clog. Cutting depth is adjustable, and the carbide blades last a long time and can be rotated 6 times. It hooks up to a vacuum for dust control. I added a HEPA filter to contain the lead dust. My 5 HP rigid wet/dry vac is not quite powerful enough to be completely effective with 25' of hose - a bigger vac would be better. Follow-up with a sander and it's like a new house!

They are pricey, but I found mine used on ebay. Maybe the house version can be converted for marine use by buying the appropriate blades from the manufacturer. Anyway, I thought I'd throw that out there in case you do decide to strip (the boat). Best of luck with her. She's a knock-out! We'll expect lots of progress pics!!


Columbia 112
10-22-2005, 11:31 AM
Jeff, that's a mean looking tool for stripping paint, thanks for the heads up. At work I've got access to lots of air tools, flat sanders and DA sanders so if I go to bare wood that's probably the course I'll take.
I have a confession to make..... I work in.....fiberglass, in the mold making department, so tools are not a problem. Fairing the hull also should'nt be to bad. Just air sand untill almost thru the paint and then hand fair to the wood.
Bob, you're right again. it's got to be cheaper and more time effective to fix those spars rather than build new. I'll strip off the red paint and do a full inspection.
Please don't hold that fiberglass stuff against me. I only do it to feed the kids and pay for the boat. I really am a woodie at heart.
Check out the coal mine at http://www.marineplastics.ca/ if you have the stomach for that kind of stuff.

Columbia 112
11-01-2005, 06:07 PM
Stripped the mast of all the fittings and paint. Itís all over for this one, the paint was hiding lots of problems. All the original bronze plate tangs are wonderful to behold, just as LFH drew them. With the original spars as patterns Iíll build new ones. Found a place on the Island that sells top quality Sitka and sent in a cut list for quote. Iím cleaning out the below decks, which are really quite filthy with dirt and grime from the previous owner apparently living aboard. Lots of mildew and what appears to be smoke stains on the overhead. Tempted to pressure wash the inside and slosh around ďPrestoneĒ to kill all thatís left behind. Anyhow hereís the new question. The tangs are really green and crusty. What is the best way to clean them? Abrasion or chemicals?

Dave Fleming
11-01-2005, 06:57 PM
Those photos taken in the SF Bay Area?

Port Sonoma by any chance?

If so no wonder no bottom growth that is brackish water at best and at worst full of agricultural runoff and storm sewer gunk.

11-01-2005, 09:22 PM
And when you get done, here is what you will have ---- Rozinante SWIFT (http://home.earthlink.net/~dunbarpm/Rozinante/roz2.jpg)
The sheet arrangement for the self tending jib looks interesting. I have seen a similar setup on Michael Reid's Roz up in Maine and have been attempting to replicate it for a working jib on SWIFT -- made the club last winter, but have yet to find a jib to cut down.
The plank layout on your hull looks great - Swift has a couple of stealer planks here and there.
My only advice is to take your time, maybe buy a little glass daysailor to ease the pain now and then.

11-01-2005, 11:19 PM
I was just reading what LFH had to say about a sliding hatch for Rozinante: "In some ways Rozinante would be better with a sliding hatch over the after end of the deckhouse...but the expense of a well made hatch would be perhaps $150 these days, and I would duck my head many times for that sum". Dang! Somebody coulda saved $150! :D

Alan D. Hyde
11-02-2005, 10:48 AM

Worth the work... :D


Columbia 112
11-02-2005, 12:04 PM
The photos were taken in Vallejo and Glen Cove area of SF Bay. Talked to a surveyor in White Rock, heís going to check out the boat. He suggested pulling some of the planking screws which Iíll do before he arrives. One or two plugs have come out to reveal the bronze heads, which look to be in good condition.

Dave Fleming
11-02-2005, 12:07 PM
Ah Ha,the Napa River pretty much the same as the Petaluma River, brackish semi tidal.

Good luck to you sweet lookin' hull. smile.gif

11-02-2005, 04:29 PM
If I were you I would hire a pro restorer(borrow the money if you must) that you could work with....get a Class-A job done....sell it on Ebay .....take the pile of money ..... sail on a newer boat ready to go...and put the other half of the pile in the bank. smile.gif

What year is it?

Columbia 112
11-02-2005, 05:11 PM
I don't have much info on the early years of Iolanthe other than she was build in the SF Bay area in 1968. That's it, if anyone has more info please chime in.