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View Full Version : A Solid Rappel Anchor



ljb5
03-11-2018, 01:38 PM
https://www.facebook.com/HansjoergAuer.official/videos/10156275046798216/

Ack.

David G
03-11-2018, 01:42 PM
Did some free climbing, but never got into technical climbing. This doesn't inspire me to encourage my kids in that direction...

Ack, indeed.

Chris Smith porter maine
03-11-2018, 01:54 PM
That fellow was a fool, didn't bring what he needed to make the climb safely, or used all or rather to much of his gear going off route to keep himself safe.

David W Pratt
03-11-2018, 02:14 PM
A-1

Gerarddm
03-11-2018, 03:17 PM
An avid newbie climber once, I'd never do winter climbing at all, ever.

Nutsburgers. Too many variables inserted into the safety equation for my liking.

ljb5
03-11-2018, 07:08 PM
Having worked up the nerve to watch the video again, and taking note of the angle of the trees, I'm thinking maybe it's not that steep at all and maybe it's only that first bulge -- thirty or so feet -- that he needs to get over until he can walk off.

But still, it seems like an odd combination of skill, guts and sang froid. Cool enough to get himself into that position, calm enough to rap off that little flake, but not steady enough to just down climb the way he came up?

Ralphie Boy
03-12-2018, 12:04 AM
Not only was that anchor very dangerous since it didn’t stick out very far, but the upper edge of the horn was a sharp edge, and it’s never a good idea to have a rope which is supprting weight running over such an edge. That climber is lucky to be alive.

Ralphie

artif
03-12-2018, 03:14 AM
Big debate over on a climbing forum i visit. Conclusion is, its nowhere near a steep as it appears, as mentioned previously look at the trees in the background, also the way the rope hangs etc.

Mike J
03-12-2018, 07:05 AM
Down climbing technical ice can be sketchy since you can't can't get a good swing and it's hard to tell if the pick is set well. Mixed routes like that one are more like aid routes anyway so it's kind of a one way thing. I was always the dorky guy carrying hexes up a route but no one ever complained when we bailed off one.

Mike

ljb5
03-12-2018, 10:50 AM
Down climbing technical ice can be sketchy since you can't can't get a good swing and it's hard to tell if the pick is set well. Mixed routes like that one are more like aid routes anyway so it's kind of a one way thing. I was always the dorky guy carrying hexes up a route but no one ever complained when we bailed off one.

Mike

Plus, it looks like he only has one ice tool with him?

I've bailed off many climbs, but I've never done a sketchy bail. I'm always better prepared to rap off than I am to climb up.