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View Full Version : 2 questions regarding Deks Olje



dmede
08-22-2005, 01:39 PM
I'm thinking of applying Deks Olje to my Fiddlehead canoe (all Western Red and Port Orford Cedar) and have a couple quesstions:

1) once dry, does Deks Olje provide any surface abraision protection?

2) can dry Deks Olje be covered over with varnish?

thanks,
dave

Todd Bradshaw
08-22-2005, 01:57 PM
Deks #1 just leaves a natural looking oiled finish. Microscopically, it might harden the surface a tiny bit, but if you hit a rock, it's certainly going to show. It does soak in well, so it's power to keep water from soaking into the scratch might be decent and it's easy to touch-up.

Deks #2 is much more like varnish. It looks more like it, applies much more like it and does leave a harder, varnish-like surface. I'm not really sure I'd put most paint or varnish finishes into the "good abrasion resistance" class, but Deks #2 should be similar. I have used regular varnish (like Captain's Varnish) over well dried, multi-coat applications of Deks #1, used sort of as a primer. I don't know whether you're supposed to, but they seemed to work fine. On the other hand, I'm not sure it really added anything worthwhile to the mix when compared to the normal diluted varnish base coats and Deks #1 is a pretty expensive primer if something else will work just as well.

pcford
08-22-2005, 02:16 PM
Just varnish.

Deks is fine for workboats; I believe that is how it is used in Scandanavia where it originated. Your boat needs varnish.

dmede
08-22-2005, 02:45 PM
thanks Todd & pcford.

I did a test piece on some WRC with the Deks over the weekend, just a few coats over an hour, nothing like the 6 hours the full job would require but it did show that the Deks leaves no appreciable build up that I could see.

I was hoping it would have some build like varnish but without the runs or tedious sanding.

I may switch back to my original idea of flooding the wood with boiled Linseed oil (50/50 with turps) then varnishing over once dry.

dave

pcford
08-22-2005, 02:55 PM
I was hoping it would have some build like varnish but without the runs or tedious sanding.

I may switch back to my original idea of flooding the wood with boiled Linseed oil (50/50 with turps) then varnishing over once dry. If you are varnishing properly, you won't have runs.
Sanding levels the finish. That's what gets the fine finish. Can't get it without sanding.

Linseed oil will darken the wood with no advantage that I can think of.

dmede
08-22-2005, 03:04 PM
the linseed/turps flood is per John Gardner (and some others here) and is intended to flood the wood (as much as possible) with oil so there will be less space for water to be taken up while at the same time expanding the wood like it was wet to help it stay tight even out of the water. This is on a traditionally planked lapstreak canoe with cedar planks where the laps have been clinch-nailed together.

it could probably be skipped but i may do it anyway, just to try the technique. my mission with every boat i do is to see what new elements of boat building i can learn or expereince.

ive posted a seperate question about my varnishing technique, since i am clearly not varnishing properly.