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Harry's Gal
08-16-2017, 09:11 AM
I'm planning to pull this engine out in a day or two. I have everything disconnected but the propshaft. I need help determining how to do that. I'm completely new to inboards and not much of a mechanic. Here is what I'm looking at. Help?

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/35772199294_f69b311a1a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wv4SyN)How to get these apart. That is the question. (https://flic.kr/p/Wv4SyN) by trbrackett1 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141514265@N04/), on Flickr[/IMG]

Breakaway
08-16-2017, 09:19 AM
That round/ T-shaped fixture is the coupling. Remove the hex headed fasteners that connect it to the transmission coupling and the shaft and engine will be separated.

Kevin

Peerie Maa
08-16-2017, 09:21 AM
Is she still afloat? Might not be important, but good to know.
Mark the flanges at the back of the gear box, so that you know which way to put it back. Again may be not important, but best practice. Free off those nuts on the flange, then slide the propshaft back to clear the studs and you are good to go. Are they nuts or bolts? If bolts you will not have to slide the shaft as far back.

wizbang 13
08-16-2017, 09:27 AM
http://controlscentral.com/product_pictures/Large/AEROKROIL-13.jpg

nedL
08-16-2017, 09:37 AM
The only thing I can add is that you will need to put the reverse gear in "forward" (or "reverse") to keep the prop shaft from just spinning when you go to remove the coupling bolts. If the engine is free, and the bolts really tight you may even just end up turning the engine over, at which point you will need to get a big pipe wrench that grabs around the outer diameter of the coupling to keep things from turning. (If you can avoid it at all don't put a pipe wrench on the shaft itself.)

rbgarr
08-16-2017, 09:56 AM
I hate that job. Couplings are so often seized up to each other and hard to get at. A coworker once applied heat to the studs to loosen them (after trying EVERYTHING else to get them started) and set the boat on fire due to gasoline soaked bilges. Extremely frightening. Hard to put out. Damage extensive.

Harry's Gal
08-16-2017, 12:41 PM
The only thing I can add is that you will need to put the reverse gear in "forward" (or "reverse") to keep the prop shaft from just spinning when you go to remove the coupling bolts. If the engine is free, and the bolts really tight you may even just end up turning the engine over, at which point you will need to get a big pipe wrench that grabs around the outer diameter of the coupling to keep things from turning. (If you can avoid it at all don't put a pipe wrench on the shaft itself.)
Ah Ha! I can see where someone used a pipe wrench on the shaft in the past. Thanks!

Harry's Gal
08-16-2017, 12:44 PM
Thanks, everyone. I will make an attempt using your advice and promise to not set the boat on fire.

Harry's Gal
08-16-2017, 01:56 PM
Done! One bolt head wanted to become round. Other than that, it was very easy, and I'm also happy my instincts about how it should separate were right. Thanks, all!

nedL
08-16-2017, 03:44 PM
Good to hear!

Breakaway
08-16-2017, 06:27 PM
Nice.

K


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rbgarr
08-16-2017, 08:38 PM
+1!

DeniseO30
08-17-2017, 07:05 AM
Done! One bolt head wanted to become round. Other than that, it was very easy, and I'm also happy my instincts about how it should separate were right. Thanks, all!
For future reference;
Facing the same problem on my truck about 2 months ago when we had to rebuild the front end on my Ford Ranger. Ford is infamous for using 12-point head bolts and many are recessed rusted and rounded off. I was about to buy industrial drill bits and look at hours and hours of drilling but It suggested I get a set of these,.they work like a charm on the first try.
https://m.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-5-Pack-Bolt-Extractor-Set/50146292

Harry's Gal
08-17-2017, 11:27 AM
Oh! Good to know, Denise. Thanks.

boattruck
08-17-2017, 02:34 PM
HG, If I remember correctly, this is a salvage operation, most expeditious option, would likely be a thin slicing disc in a 4" grinder, cut the prop shaft an inch or two aft of the coupling, safety goggles please, and mind the sparks.... it will take longer to stretch out the cord, than to cut the shaft... the coupling, and bolts, can be dealt with much better when the whole lot is in the shop and accessible. Best wishes, Steve

nedL
08-17-2017, 03:23 PM
:O. I am quite certain this is the beginning of a restoration. The mechanicals and hardware are all planned for re-use.

ulav8r
08-17-2017, 09:04 PM
If cutting is required(not on this one, he already has it apart) cut the coupling. It might be more difficult than cutting the shaft, but the coupling will be much cheaper to replace than the shaft.

Harry's Gal
08-18-2017, 07:57 AM
Yes, beginning of restore. Came out easy. I just needed to know where to disconnect. Everything else seemed obvious. I'm a total motor newbee. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4331/35811966314_3084b7cec5_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WyzFV5)Engine coming out with the help of Glen Zwigart. All hail the sculptor. (https://flic.kr/p/WyzFV5) by trbrackett1 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141514265@N04/), on Flickr[/IMG]