PDA

View Full Version : Using a Router



cusoak
04-22-2017, 09:01 AM
I want to use a router to flush trim the plywood sides of a boat that the chine.
This angle is not 90 degrees, My router base is also not adjustable.
The angle on the chine is perfect for running a bottom bearing flush trim bit
So any ideas
Thanks Jeff

Hill160881
04-22-2017, 09:12 AM
Use an angle grinder with 36 grit disks. Trim it in place.

Hill160881
04-22-2017, 09:18 AM
You will notice I ran my lower chine wide and I trimmed it in place with a grinder.

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/Where_am_I1/Boat%20and%20delta%20pics/D12F3C29-807A-4F37-9F8D-1A88FCE17E5B_zpsvb8ykl1z.jpg (http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/Where_am_I1/media/Boat%20and%20delta%20pics/D12F3C29-807A-4F37-9F8D-1A88FCE17E5B_zpsvb8ykl1z.jpg.html)

Baltimore Lou
04-22-2017, 09:23 AM
You don't say how big a boat you're building, or how thick the plywood plank material, but a hand plane might be a good solution and one that will let you creep up on the line with a little more control than a router. I've also used a random orbit sander for this job on stitch and glue, or strip construction.

Breakaway
04-22-2017, 11:57 AM
As above; I trimmed my plywood skiff at the chine first with a pullsaw, and then a few passes with block plane. Simple, quick, little danger of mishap.

Kevin

Jay Greer
04-22-2017, 12:45 PM
There are also Jack Planes that can be used. Using the router and a bearing trim bit will get you close. Following up with a jack plane with a sharp blade will allow you to finsh the trim with good control.
Jay

Mark O.
04-22-2017, 01:05 PM
I used a router a lot on my plywood boat build. Depending on the angle of the chine, maybe a bit like this:https://www.amazon.com/Freud-40-098-1-Inch-15-Degree-Chamfer/dp/B0002TUCP2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492883274&sr=8-1&keywords=15+degree+chamfer+router+bit

I would typically route the chines flush, then go back with another pass with a quarter round over if I was going to cover with fiberglass. If that is the plan, it's not important it be perfect 90 degrees as more wood is to be removed the the 1/4 round-over anyway. I found it pretty manageable to get nice clean results. Important to have the router securely held in front of you with both hands, especially on areas where the hull has a curve, as the router might not be completely flush. Try some practice runs without the bit to make sure the router stays flush to all areas. Skip and areas where the torque of the router wants to rock against the hull, as that would make the bit gouge the wood. Don't reach out. Keep the router in front of you and move slowly.

willin woodworks
04-24-2017, 06:53 AM
I agree with Jay. Trim as close as you can with the bearing and then clean up with a good sharp plane.

skaraborgcraft
04-24-2017, 07:37 AM
Im all for using power tools when they can be handled and controlled at all times. A pull saw and sharp plane does not take much effort and is under complete control at all times. How accurate does it need to be and will it be bogged and coated afterwards might decide which is the better option, and what method you are comfortable with.

RFNK
04-24-2017, 04:51 PM
You can always make a thin, angled base plate and screw that to the base plate of the router. As above, finish with a plane or sander.

Rick

Bob Cleek
04-24-2017, 05:51 PM
Particularly on rolling bevels, just don't go there with a router. I don't know how much time I've wasted trying to invent a jig that would permit routing rolling bevels on frame and plank edges. It's sort of like trying to "square" a circle (replicate a square with the same diameter as a circle) in geometry, or to devise a perpetual motion machine. It's just not possible (as far as I have been able to see!) The main problem is that "a router is forever." There's no end to the damage it can do to the work, not to mention the user, if it gets away from you. A hand-held router requires a solid reference plane. As noted by the other resident "Old Fharts" above, you are far better off to saw to a rough line (even using a Saws-all if you must) and then "creep up on it" with a hand plane. There is a lot a router can do and it's a handy tool, but the manufacturer's hype about being able to build anything and everything with a router is pure bunk. Once a router encounters rolling bevels, it's reached the limits of its usefulness. If anybody disagrees, I'd love to learn of their solution. Like everybody else, I'd love to know how to automatically spile plank and bevel frames with one.