ultra light canoe

[Doug Canada]

Any builders of "skin on frame" boats out there?

Geodesic Airolite Boat Designs
Arrow 14
http://www.gaboats.com/boats/arrow14.html

or from the Robert Morris book "Making Skin-On-Frame Boats"

My main question is concerning durability
...on a 1-2 week trip.

Thanks,
Doug

.

[landlocked sailor]

I built Platt's 'Nimrod' a couple of years ago. Rick

[glenallen]

Doug, you might get more info faster on Qajaq USA website.

My only SOF is a E Arctic Kayak from David Zimmerley's website, so I don't feel qualified to answer specific questions about the durability of the models you mentioned.

However, how durable your kayak is depends largely on where you paddle it. Mine is #10 canvas with six coats of latex housepaint. No tears or serious abrasion in three years of use.

Best wishes, Glen

[Ed Strong]

We have built a Snowshoe 12 and a rob Roy 14 kayak. No real readingf on durability but if you keep a roll of duct tape on hand small punctures and the like can be easily fixed. Stay away from the rocks!

[Three Cedars]

My neighbour has the Arrow 14 , a beautiful canoe. It can withstand the odd thump ok. The thin skin is fine on the water but those inevitable shore landings will take their toll for all but the most vigilant and lucky. For a one or two week trip I'd say you would be better off with a heavier skin and different construction or just go with a hardshell canoe.

[nedL]

I have three wood/canvas kayaks, the oldest being one that my dad & I built in 1974 (so I guess that would be 32 years ;) ). I used it all the time growing up, even took it out in the ocean a number of times & its still doing fine on the original canvas. I think its last coat of paint was about thiry years ago. As has been mentioned, just watch the sticks & snags.

[ 12-16-2005, 07:34 AM: Message edited by: nedL ]

[Ron Carter]

Platt Monforts dacron is a bit light for tripping. I have built 2 SOF canoes with lashed frames and 12oz. and 15oz. nylon coated with urethane varnish. They are very tough and I use them just like my regular canoes on lakes and other flat water. I would shy away from fast moving water with lots of rocks or snags as the potential for a tear or large puncture is still there. Amazingly tough and it's fun to watch the water from inside the boat.

[Dave Hadfield]

I built one, a shortened Snowshoe 14.

It's tougher than it looks. I'd take it on a bush trip with care, particularly if it was a trip with long portages. (Well, actually I'd build another at about 15ft -- mine is too small.)

It's only very sharp objects that will puncture the hull. Blunted ones will not -- in fact you'll break the framing before the skin will hole.

I'd plan on wearing waterproof boots and stepping out into the water to load and unload -- as was said, pretty much like a valuable old wood-canvas.

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

If you are going on a trip where help is at a minimum it would be wise to choose a boat that has a greater margin for resisting damage. Even tho' an SOF might make the trip successfully it would be tempting fate a little.
After you, the next most important item on a float trip is your boat. Among hardbodied canoes those that are termed "tripping" or "expedition" models are usually tougher and heavier to be able to soak up unexpected hits and still keep going.
Charlie