View Full Version : Rob White Stripper Sport Boat questions ?

Sport boat nut
01-07-2017, 02:22 PM
I have had the plans for a couple years. I have been reading much on how to construct. I know this is doable but can,t help feeling a bit intimidated. I am planning on machining my own strips from various woods. I have access to northern white cedar, black ash which is growing on my property . I also can get some clear tulip poplar which was used by Rob in some of his boats, but length will be limited to 8 feet ? Unless i can luck out and get a few clear long boards i will have to scarf joint . Rob says you should use a simple 45 scarf because it will conform better than a long one . So nice long clear strips would be nice, but i don,t think my cedar is will yield that quality. I have quite a bit of it some of it is big , 9 out of 10 it,s hollow. I will be able to log it and have a band saw mill come in to mill . Should i at least buy some clear 16,17 ft western red cedar to do the shear? This is my first build , so i have much to learn. Thanks in advance for your input, Don.

01-07-2017, 09:12 PM
I started. Robb White Sport Boat last week when i bought a piece of quartersawn sapele for the transom.

I think you want make your strips out of very well seasoned wood.

I could see felling trees now, have the bandsaw mill to 5/4 or 6/4, and then come back in a couple years to make strips from tour flitches.

I stand to be corrected of course, everyone here is very polite in my experience.

I do agree the instructions with the plans are intimidating. I would feel better about this if i had built a stripper canoe before, but no guts no glory, right?

Todd Bradshaw
01-08-2017, 03:48 AM
If you stagger the joints and use your head to avoid joining in spots where there is a lot of bend or twist going on, it is perfectly possible to use nothing more than butt joints, with no real loss of strength (which is supplied mostly by the fiberglass skins).

This canoe is 22' long and probably 75% of the strips have at least one (and often two) butt joints. There are scarfs in the ash outwales and gunwale caps, but those are the only scarfs on the entire boat.


You can mix woods to an extent, but be aware that mixing softer wood strips and denser, harder wood strips can make for a lumpy surface because they don't sand down at the same rate when fairing. On this boat, the checkerboard feature strip is all just butt joints, and neither boat is built with bead and cove strips.


Sport boat nut
01-08-2017, 06:45 AM
I concur ,by the time i actually start ripping strips it will be a couple years, unless i take it in to get kiln dried. Thanks SWMN

Sport boat nut
01-08-2017, 06:49 AM
Never thought about the sanding rate ! Thank you Todd. If i stayed with western red cedar and northern white would sanding rate be similar ?

01-08-2017, 07:19 AM
Yes to the above.

Go to the wood database to compare their relative harsness. Northern White cedar is 320 on the Janka hardness scale, western red is 350. Compare that to White ash at 1320.


Here you can also compare relative expansion rates, really not much of a concern in building a stripper, but something to keep in mind when mixing species in larger dimensions.

Sport boat nut
01-08-2017, 08:32 PM
SWMN did you figure how much lumber you will need for the build ? The plans say nothing on how many strips or flitches. I did some searches and came up with nothing. Will 16 feet be enough ? Anyone else with knowledge of this please please chime in . Thanks again Don

01-08-2017, 09:54 PM
Are you willing to splice strips on the boat?
Personally I just butt splice them, but others want to do a 45 degree scarf or even an 8/1 scarf (waste of time, IMHO).

Can you measure the outside perimeter of the biggest section from the plans?
Lets assume its 60" (I have no clue).

If you use 3/4" wide strips, just divide 3/4 into 60 = 80 full length strips.
You will have a extra cutoff pieces since the bow is not as big around as the maximum section. Extra's are good, since you will find cut strips that you don't want to use.
Now you need to look around to see what you can buy locally.
Lets assume 2x4x8'.

Draw out a 2x4 - really about 1 5/8 x 3 5/8.
You will have to cut the edges straight, then cut your first strip.
I assume 1/4" is used, and the cut will waste 1/8".
So each 2x4 will make 4 slices + some waste.
Each of those slices will be cut into 2 so you got 8 strips from the 2x4.
But that was only 8' long.

So instead of 80 strips you need 160 8' strips.
Since each 2x4 gives you 8 strips, you need 20 2x4s.

All that is rough, depends upon getting perfect boards - not likely, so you will have to buy some extras.

You can use any size you can find, I like 4x4s, but you have to make a first cut to get the width down to about 3/4" for a 10" table saw. Then you can just start cutting slices.

I hope that made sense and you can figure out your needs from the actual size of the boat.

I do suggest you cut all your strips the same and at one time, its easier to deal with when you are matching up the two sides of the bow.

Good luck

01-09-2017, 02:24 AM
In the instructions Robb Says the first 3-4 strips on each side will need to be 16'6", or spliced.

I have 56 strips in stock, 16' x .75 x .25. By laying some 550 cord out on the full size plans i think i need 80 strips, 40 pairs, to get from the sheer down around the turn if the bilge, 128 strips 3/4" wide (64 pairs) to get from the sheer to the centerline at the widest point in the hull. Mold station #4 iirc.

I was planning to order another 50 strips from my local millwork place so i would go into the build with 53 pairs.

If tou still got standing trees

Sport boat nut
01-09-2017, 06:35 AM
UPCHURCHMR Thank you for the break down.

Sport boat nut
01-09-2017, 06:43 AM
SWMN Yup those trees are still standing ,i went and looked at them the other day, there is some pretty nice one,s in one stand. They will be relativly easy for me to cut and skid with my old Ford tractor.Also thank you for the break down.