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dennisfdunn
09-06-2016, 09:16 AM
I'm in the process of replacing the bottom planks of a 40' SS yawl. I've worked up from the garboard and down from the waterline and will soon need to install the shutter plank. I've read about installing a shutter plank on a Carvel-planked boat but double planking seems to be more complicated. With double planking you have multiple "shutters" - first the last inner plank has to be installed and then the last two outer planks finish the job. So you have three planks that must be fitted without suitable clamping, and two of those planks require fitting both the top and bottom edges simultaneously.

Any tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

-Denny

Peerie Maa
09-06-2016, 09:20 AM
Could you not back out the fastenings of the completed planks and use the holes to screw on strongbacks. You could then wedge from these strongbacks to clamp you shutter into place. When all is done, refasten where the strongbacks were screwed on.

boattruck
09-06-2016, 12:37 PM
Dennis, Hope you are well, in repair work, almost all of the planks are 'shutters' so we become mighty familiar with them, first, don't panic, it will be ok! The old school builders would usually choreograph their planking so their shutter was at a convenient location on the outside curve of the turn of the bilge( hollow inside curves will indeed give you grey hairs...) but oriented so that shores to the floor or walls will help you push it in place, we also work from the hardest fastening situation the the easiest, IE, fasten off the stem/transom end, work back towards the middle of the boat using the leverage of the length of the plank to help you, you are in the driver seat as far as the bevels, so set yourself up for a nice easy bevel for the shutter on the two adjoining planks, template carefully, don't try and build this too extremely tight, as of this is very dry wood, and will swell a lot once she is in the water...Have fun! cheers, Steve BT

dennisfdunn
09-06-2016, 04:29 PM
Could you not back out the fastenings of the completed planks and use the holes to screw on strongbacks. You could then wedge from these strongbacks to clamp you shutter into place. When all is done, refasten where the strongbacks were screwed on.

This sounds like a great idea. Most of the planks are fastened to the frames with 3 #12x2" screws, so I could remove the middle one without consequence. I suppose I should use a hanger bolt for its replacement (wood threads at one end and machine threads at the other) so that I don't have to keep removing the screw. Then I could install and remove strongbacks without removing the screws.

Thanks.

-Denny

Peerie Maa
09-06-2016, 04:43 PM
Glad to be of help :D

dennisfdunn
09-06-2016, 05:04 PM
Dennis, Hope you are well, in repair work, almost all of the planks are 'shutters' so we become mighty familiar with them, first, don't panic, it will be ok! The old school builders would usually choreograph their planking so their shutter was at a convenient location on the outside curve of the turn of the bilge( hollow inside curves will indeed give you grey hairs...) but oriented so that shores to the floor or walls will help you push it in place, we also work from the hardest fastening situation the the easiest, IE, fasten off the stem/transom end, work back towards the middle of the boat using the leverage of the length of the plank to help you, you are in the driver seat as far as the bevels, so set yourself up for a nice easy bevel for the shutter on the two adjoining planks, template carefully, don't try and build this too extremely tight, as of this is very dry wood, and will swell a lot once she is in the water...Have fun! cheers, Steve BT

All is well, thanks. It's just taking me a lot longer than I had hoped to finish the planking. If you visit my web site at "alitarestore.com/Alita Restoration Project/planking/approaching the shutter plank" you can judge whether or not I've positioned the shutter plank in a convenient location.

So you don't test fit your shutters before you fasten them? My experience with planking thus far, tells me that even with careful spiling the plank needs 1 or more adjustments before it fits correctly. And that's when I only have one edge to fit, not both simultaneously.

-Denny

boattruck
09-06-2016, 08:28 PM
D, planks after they are sawn to their shape and bevel from the templates ( template the inside surface, please...) are 'rolled' in other words, start at the stem or stern end, and test and adjust the fit for a couple of feet, then using a hash mark to know you are about in the right position, roll the next few feet, adjusting the fit till it is nice, adding your caulk bevel as needed, and so forth till the general area of the butt, then if you are satisfied, you can shore the whole thing in place, or, if you are confidant all is good, fasten it off, we will back up the fastenings with clever clamping around the stem and whatever shores are needed as we go, the plank is always gotten in place by pounding and shoring before fastening...FYI ...Cheers, Steve