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Markse
02-18-2016, 07:16 PM
My case of boat fever took a turn for the worse over the long weekend and I ended up as the happy (and slightly apprehensive) owner of a Peanut class sailing dinghy. As you can see, she's pretty rough but I believe I can eventually get her back into the water. Luckily, I'm not on a deadline! I've been haunting this Forum for a while and am pretty darned impressed with the level of workmanship and competence on display. I hope that some of you experienced folks will have suggestions and advise to help me get this project done the right way - or as close as possible!

http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpslzqmowsu.jpg.html?sort=2&o=1
http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsi4dif2iy.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0
http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsro20ckab.jpg.html?sort=2&o=2
http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpszqrzgkge.jpg.html?sort=2&o=4

No pictures of the inside yet but it's generally in better condition. I think my first step is to scrape and sand in order to figure out what I have under all the ugly paint.

That's all for now - bring on the comments and suggestions!

Markse
02-18-2016, 07:17 PM
And like most newbies, I can see I didn't actually figure out how to post images. Sorry!

Steamboat
02-18-2016, 07:38 PM
...FIRST - Don't attach photos. Only a tiny version will display.
...SECOND - Post the photos on the web. Use your own website or a free image hosting service like www.flickr.com, picasaweb.google.com, picturetrail, photobucket, etc. Images posted on Facebook must be set to "Public" access via the Edit option, not limited to "Friends".
...THIRD - Once posted on the web, right-click the photo to "Copy Image Location", or drag the photo to another browser window, then copy the image URL (web address) which will end in ".jpg". You can test by pasting the photo URL into the location field (http://* ) of a web browser and see if the photo displays. Remember that this process will not work for photos located just on your computer, on members-only Yahoo groups, or on Facebook unless set to "Public" view. (In Flickr - You usually have to first click the photo to bring up the black-framed viewer, then click the "View All Sizes" link near the top right. Then you can get the image URL by right-clicking the image. Alternately you can go to the Actions menu on the upper left, then select "View All Sizes".
...FOURTH - DO THIS EVERY TIME TO POST IMAGES IN THREADS: A. In any "Reply" window you can click the "insert image" icon --> a little yellow square icon with a dot at each corner, a tiny tree in the center.Depending on browser version and Reply/Edit status, this may bring up a simple window with a field to paste the URL into, or the "Add an Image" window described below.
B. If the window titled "Add an Image" comes up, click the "From URL" tab, paste the URL of the photo in the field, deselect the box for "Retrieve remote file and reference locally", then click the "INSERT IMAGE" button. The Forum software will resize some large images, so look at your post to see the actual displayed images.
YouTube video on how to select the image URL in Firefox, navigate the "Add an Image" tabs and paste the image URL - "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkfB_eDmBRw&feature=player_embedded"

Steamboat
02-18-2016, 07:57 PM
SO YOU ARE CLOSE YOU HAVE YOUR PICS URLS!
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g439/keelhauled1/Screen%20Shot%202016-02-18%20at%207.40.43%20PM_zps2wr3ku8k.png

THIS MENU BOX POPS UP

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g439/keelhauled1/Screen%20Shot%202016-02-18%20at%207.39.52%20PM_zpsc8ryass9.png
AFTER YOU PASTE A PICTURES URL AND UN-CLICK "RETRIEVE REMOTE FILE ETC" CLICK THE OK BUTTON.
DO ONE PIC URL AT A TIME!

Markse
02-18-2016, 09:17 PM
Excellent instructions Steamboat. Thanks!

http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpslzqmowsu.jpg.html?sort=2&o=1http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsi4dif2iy.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsro20ckab.jpg.html?sort=2&o=2http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpszqrzgkge.jpg.html?sort=2&o=4

Markse
02-18-2016, 09:19 PM
However, the guy following the instructions remains a dunderhead...

Steamboat
02-18-2016, 09:21 PM
Gotta do one URL at a time and if I remember correctly no more than four pictures per posting.

PS I haven't seen a peanut in decades!

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpslzqmowsu.jpg

Markse
02-18-2016, 09:21 PM
one more try
http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsi4dif2iy.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0

Markse
02-18-2016, 09:22 PM
Arugh!

adampet
02-18-2016, 11:02 PM
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpszqrzgkge.jpg

adampet
02-18-2016, 11:03 PM
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsro20ckab.jpg

adampet
02-18-2016, 11:03 PM
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsi4dif2iy.jpg

jsjpd1
02-18-2016, 11:15 PM
Looks like a fun project. I see a lot of paint striping in you immediate future, followed closely by cutting out a few spots of rot.

Jim

Markse
02-18-2016, 11:25 PM
Looks like a fun project. I see a lot of paint striping in you immediate future, followed closely by cutting out a few spots of rot.

Jim
Hi Jim,

Ive really been enjoying reading about your restoration project. Very inspiring. Newbie question: is paint stripper ok on this beat up plywood?

Adampet,

Thanks for taking pity on my tech ineptitude!

jsjpd1
02-18-2016, 11:34 PM
Sure, you could use paint stripper. I'd start by scraping off the loose paint with a scraper, then go with either a heat gun or paint stripper. It doesn't have to be perfect, the goal is to go over the whole boat to identify the bad spots and get back to a good base for new paint. Personally I would start with a heat gun over paint stripper. You can get one for twenty bucks at the hardware store and it is less messy. Plus you avoid the risk of chemical burns. But that is just personal preference.

boat fan
02-18-2016, 11:39 PM
Its not really all that beat up by the look of it.

You could just dry sand it with a random orbital , use a heat gun , or stripper.

Pick your poison.

I think that little boat could restore very well indeed.

boat fan
02-18-2016, 11:40 PM
Beat me to it Jim.

I second the heat gun.

jsjpd1
02-18-2016, 11:43 PM
That's true, it doesn't look like it is in terrible shape. I only see a couple of obviously bad spots. One under the front of the one runner and then the transom.

Of course you never really know until you start digging into it.


This canoe didn't look too bad either


http://i646.photobucket.com/albums/uu186/jsjpd1/Boat%20rehab/DSCN2088.jpg (http://s646.photobucket.com/user/jsjpd1/media/Boat%20rehab/DSCN2088.jpg.html)


Ended up replacing about a third of the boat allsaid and done.


http://i646.photobucket.com/albums/uu186/jsjpd1/Boat%20rehab/DSCN2150.jpg (http://s646.photobucket.com/user/jsjpd1/media/Boat%20rehab/DSCN2150.jpg.html)


It's all part of the fun.

adampet
02-19-2016, 07:40 AM
I have fond memories of messing around in a Peanut on a local pond in my youth.
Cool little boats.

Adam

boat fan
02-19-2016, 09:02 AM
Of course you never really know until you start digging into it.


Yes Indeed. Sometimes I should curb my enthusiasm a little and not make assumptions like that ..

Nice job on that canoe Jim ! Great photo.

Regardless , best of luck adampet !

swoody126
02-19-2016, 09:42 AM
And like most newbies, I can see I didn't actually figure out how to post images. Sorry!

hey Markse,

WELCOME TO THE MADNESS!

to post a pic from PHOTOBUCKET you will need to have 2 windows/screens open on your desktop

1 for the post & 1 for PHOTOBUCKET

once you begin your post in 1 window, click over to the other window where you have PHOTOBUCKET opened up to the pic you wish to post

on the right hand side of this screen you will see 4 boxes under SHARE THIS PHOTO

click on the 3 letters IMG to the side of the bottom box

the stuff in the bottom box should turn yellow for a moment, which is the way it is telling you that you have just copied that pic

now go back to the post screen and move your curser to where you want that pic to appear

use your PASTE button to insert the pic @ that location and you will see a huge string of gobbl'dygook and your curser will be blinking at the end of it

hit RETURN 2x and you can either continue entering text or repeat the process to post another pic

at any time during this process you can click on GO ADVANCED/PREVIEW POST and see what you have done, so far, with the COMPOSE box directly under it where you can continue/edit as you see fit

as one who is knee deep to a tall giraffe in a restoration/rescue project may i wish you

FAIR SEAS & A FOLLOWING BREEZE

sw

Markse
02-19-2016, 12:43 PM
Thanks for the comments and suggestions all! It's supposed to be nice this weekend, so I'll be able to get in some scraping. More pictures as I make some progress.

Trying this once more...
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps2pa2cs8r.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps2pa2cs8r.jpg.html)

Markse
02-19-2016, 12:44 PM
Yahoo! Thanks swoody!

wizbang 13
02-19-2016, 01:18 PM
That is a boat well worth fixing!!
bruce

swoody126
02-19-2016, 07:25 PM
Yahoo! Thanks swoody!

you're most welcome

glad it worked...

sw

Markse
02-20-2016, 11:24 PM
Made a little progress today: scraped loose paint and then started in with my new heat gun (I did lose an hour or so wandering around Harbor Freight gawking). It was a nice day to be outside.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsieyubnfn.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsieyubnfn.jpg.html)

Markse
02-20-2016, 11:33 PM
This area at the bow obviously will need to be patched. I suppose I'll use fiberglass and fairing compound? Until I get to that stage, should I use some epoxy or paint to protect from further damage? I am keeping her covered when not working on her.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsvt49nhzs.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsvt49nhzs.jpg.html)

jsjpd1
02-20-2016, 11:57 PM
I would really want to cut that spot out and scarph in a patch, the rot likely goes farther than the three plus showing so it is very compromised there. I wouldn't bother with a seal coat at this point. Instead I would keep taking the paint off to find the other spots like this one. Then I would start at the easiest one to patch and move forward from there.

wizbang 13
02-21-2016, 07:28 AM
You might be amazed what CPES put in there , over and over, can do!
This is where it excells

skaraborgcraft
02-21-2016, 07:46 AM
Plywood planking on what, seam batten? Like that bow shape, not seen a peanut before.

swoody126
02-21-2016, 08:20 AM
Made a little progress today: scraped loose paint and then started in with my new heat gun (I did lose an hour or so wandering around Harbor Freight gawking). It was a nice day to be outside.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsieyubnfn.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsieyubnfn.jpg.html)

this is the point when i put a 1-sided sharpened edge on a couple older/stiff putty knives i got @ the flea mkt

the quality of those OLD putty knives appears to equal that of good cabinet scrapers and they sharpen easily and well

flat on the bottom, beveled to pretty sharp on the top & ROUNDED CORNERS

the heat doesn't have to work as hard with that sharper edge slipping under the paint edge

the sharpened/rounded corners(different radius for each corner) worked up against the runners & skeg really well, w/o the typical sharp corner gouging...

AINT THIS FUN!

sw

Markse
02-21-2016, 02:39 PM
Plywood planking on what, seam batten? Like that bow shape, not seen a peanut before.
It's cold molded construction. Similar to a fiberglass boat I beleive, only with mahogany plywood. I like the shape too - looks like a claw foot bathtub!

Markse
02-21-2016, 02:42 PM
this is the point when i put a 1-sided sharpened edge on a couple older/stiff putty knives i got @ the flea mkt

the quality of those OLD putty knives appears to equal that of good cabinet scrapers and they sharpen easily and well

flat on the bottom, beveled to pretty sharp on the top & ROUNDED CORNERS

the heat doesn't have to work as hard with that sharper edge slipping under the paint edge

the sharpened/rounded corners(different radius for each corner) worked up against the runners & skeg really well, w/o the typical sharp corner gouging...

AINT THIS FUN!

sw
I was thinking that I'll need to sharpen the scraper. The (greenish) outer layer comes off easily, the blue base coat not so much.

swoody126
02-21-2016, 03:17 PM
It's cold molded construction. Similar to a fiberglass boat I beleive, only with mahogany plywood. I like the shape too - looks like a claw foot bathtub!

much like the old YELLOW JACKET RUNABOUTS of the 1950's

Markse
03-07-2016, 02:15 PM
A little more progress between rainstorms over the weekend. I'm 3/4 done with scraping and then will move to the ROS.
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpset0qhnh3.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpset0qhnh3.jpg.html)

And I'm learning why it's important to remove the old paint - this dry rot was completely invisible.
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsja9geyzr.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsja9geyzr.jpg.html)

Markse
03-28-2016, 01:01 PM
I made some good progress this weekend - went out to putter on Saturday and before I knew it, six hours were gone! As of now, the bottom paint is 99% removed. Good for enough. Thereíll be filling,fairing, and sanding aplenty when I get to eventually get to painting.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/EC184A55-71BF-4873-9E2C-408DE4E24FA2_zpsd4s5ktx2.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/EC184A55-71BF-4873-9E2C-408DE4E24FA2_zpsd4s5ktx2.jpg.html)
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/73FDB907-C500-4BC5-B198-1D5532F0F799_zpsrvzdo0lz.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/73FDB907-C500-4BC5-B198-1D5532F0F799_zpsrvzdo0lz.jpg.html)

More to follow...

Markse
03-28-2016, 01:06 PM
I also turned the boat over and removed all the hardwarefrom the inside (all carefully segregated into labeled Ziploc bags), removed the thwarts, and the plastic rub rail.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/5B7C34E8-EF51-407F-B5A7-B395A0E91970_zpsxxa3pg4l.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/5B7C34E8-EF51-407F-B5A7-B395A0E91970_zpsxxa3pg4l.jpg.html)

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/C11733D7-453B-449B-A2A1-0A02D058ED80_zpsseghrzrk.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/C11733D7-453B-449B-A2A1-0A02D058ED80_zpsseghrzrk.jpg.html)

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/7D1EA89B-5CDE-4582-827C-EDB443E9BD9D_zpspsjvn3gm.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/7D1EA89B-5CDE-4582-827C-EDB443E9BD9D_zpspsjvn3gm.jpg.html)

Markse
03-28-2016, 01:25 PM
I didnít bother with doing anything with the transom because the whole thing obviously needs to be replaced.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsamxyncmm.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsamxyncmm.jpg.html)

Markse
03-28-2016, 01:33 PM
I still need to remove the mast step/foot and the centerboard box. Once thatís done, Iíll scrape and sand the inside in order to get a goodlook at the condition of the plywood. I donít think this will be as difficult as was the bottom because the varnish is pretty far gone, but the concave surface is a bit tricky to scrape efficiently.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/6AC98651-4824-46B0-A8CE-90182A873A78_zpsm2qdz1gb.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/6AC98651-4824-46B0-A8CE-90182A873A78_zpsm2qdz1gb.jpg.html)

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/FC64C9C0-5802-48BD-8EB9-DFCE96F6BFF1_zpssvynorfm.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/FC64C9C0-5802-48BD-8EB9-DFCE96F6BFF1_zpssvynorfm.jpg.html)

Markse
03-28-2016, 01:35 PM
The jobsite squirrel control officer taking a much-deserved break.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/A20FBF97-B5CC-40DD-9256-496F0946A66A_zpsayzcbt1e.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/A20FBF97-B5CC-40DD-9256-496F0946A66A_zpsayzcbt1e.jpg.html)

Markse
03-28-2016, 01:45 PM
Now hereís where I could use some advice - after Iím done scraping, I think my next move will be to remove the top and side rails (saving them for patterns) and begin repairing dry rot on the hull.
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/BAD1E7D2-4BDB-41F1-877C-6D8B4BC4E10C_zpsmv1uydj7.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/BAD1E7D2-4BDB-41F1-877C-6D8B4BC4E10C_zpsmv1uydj7.jpg.html)
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/1AF5FD31-365C-40D1-94DB-CB6D316A8902_zpsoadljbuc.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/1AF5FD31-365C-40D1-94DB-CB6D316A8902_zpsoadljbuc.jpg.html)

Markse
03-28-2016, 01:49 PM
Is this the right order of operations? As you can see, I also need to replace the keel strip and the skids.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/7C047887-9700-4371-99C4-F4E73270F058_zpsrdcrz82u.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/7C047887-9700-4371-99C4-F4E73270F058_zpsrdcrz82u.jpg.html)

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/85388729-8739-4180-B0EF-186D87119DF1_zpskzy9pznr.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/85388729-8739-4180-B0EF-186D87119DF1_zpskzy9pznr.jpg.html)

Maybe these should be done first so that any accidental damage - remember, total newbie here Ė can be repaired at the same time as thedry rot?

swoody126
04-26-2016, 06:07 PM
hey Mark

while perusing other sites & some of the pics that can be found on the infamous interweb i found a coupla pics i feel may give you some encouragement

these pics were BORROWED from unknown sources

http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag60/swoody126/BOATS/2011-08-22%2018.56.03_zpsbdclzp0u.jpg (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/swoody126/media/BOATS/2011-08-22%2018.56.03_zpsbdclzp0u.jpg.html)

http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag60/swoody126/BOATS/images_zpsktmzzuxj.jpeg (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/swoody126/media/BOATS/images_zpsktmzzuxj.jpeg.html)

ENJOY

sw

lupussonic
04-26-2016, 06:37 PM
Markse, hi.
Your keel strip doesn't look like it needs replacing, not at least from 4000 miles away. If it's hard, rot proof, and/or apply CPES, paint and you're good. If it ain't broke...

If you're going to take out the transom, make sure you strap it up with truck straps or rope, so the hull planks don't spring apart.

Following with interest...

Woxbox
04-26-2016, 08:20 PM
I made some good progress this weekend - went out to putter on Saturday and before I knew it, six hours were gone! As of now, the bottom paint is 99% removed. Good for enough. Thereíll be filling,fairing, and sanding aplenty when I get to eventually get to painting.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/EC184A55-71BF-4873-9E2C-408DE4E24FA2_zpsd4s5ktx2.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/EC184A55-71BF-4873-9E2C-408DE4E24FA2_zpsd4s5ktx2.jpg.html)
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/73FDB907-C500-4BC5-B198-1D5532F0F799_zpsrvzdo0lz.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/73FDB907-C500-4BC5-B198-1D5532F0F799_zpsrvzdo0lz.jpg.html)

More to follow...


I agree -- don't take it apart any more than is necessary or it will lose its shape. This photo suggests that the bottom is hogged, something not usually associated with little dinghy sized boats. When you start putting it back together, you'll want to keep an eye on the overall hull shape -- make it symetrical and look for nice fair curves in all directions. BTW, this is probably as good a first project as a person could hope to come across. Good luck with your progress.

Markse
04-26-2016, 11:42 PM
Swoody,
Thanks for the pictures. Thinking of red when I finally get to painting.

Lupussonic,
I'm still thinking about that. It looks pretty bad up close. Removed the transom last weekend. I put in a couple of 2x4 braces with deck screws but I like the truck strap idea. Another visit to Harbor Freight!

Dave,
Yes, the bottom is hogged (had to google that one). I wonder what caused that to happen? Would a beefier keel strip and - I don't know the proper term - center floor board help to smooth that out?

Thanks for the comments. I'll try to post more pictures tomorrow.

Hugh MacD
04-27-2016, 10:45 AM
Swoody,
Thanks for the pictures. Thinking of red when I finally get to painting.

Lupussonic,
I'm still thinking about that. It looks pretty bad up close. Removed the transom last weekend. I put in a couple of 2x4 braces with deck screws but I like the truck strap idea. Another visit to Harbor Freight!

Dave,
Yes, the bottom is hogged (had to google that one). I wonder what caused that to happen? Would a beefier keel strip and - I don't know the proper term - center floor board help to smooth that out?

Thanks for the comments. I'll try to post more pictures tomorrow.
The hogging could have been caused by sitting right side up on sawhorses, or on a trailer with incorrect supports...for some time by the look of it. I'n facing repairs on similar damage to my Mirror, but that's just going to be a matter of scarphing in a new bit of ply. Your boat's looking great!

Gerarddm
04-27-2016, 11:14 AM
Given the roundness of the bow, I am scratching my head as to why rot occurred there.

Markse
04-27-2016, 12:47 PM
Given the roundness of the bow, I am scratching my head as to why rot occurred there.

To me it looks like it got bashed against a trailer or some rocks, wasn't repaired, and then water got in while the boat was stored outside.

Woxbox
04-27-2016, 08:04 PM
Yes, the bottom is hogged (had to google that one). I wonder what caused that to happen? Would a beefier keel strip and - I don't know the proper term - center floor board help to smooth that out?

The answer would be yes. The internal piece is the keelson. You'll have to find out how determined the boat is to retain that depression. It may be willing to straighten itself out if you give it a chance, or it may take some strong encouragement and a fresh backbone. I agree that it probably got that way from being badly supported in storage.

Markse
04-28-2016, 05:05 PM
Here's the boat with the transom removed. I went to Harbor Freight on my lunch break and got some truck straps which I'll add to further shore up the hull.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/645748EC-4C80-46BC-8291-CEBE56594404_zpsa3bnz3dz.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/645748EC-4C80-46BC-8291-CEBE56594404_zpsa3bnz3dz.jpg.html)

There was nothing but nails holding the transom in place and as you can see, the area where it was attached needs some attention. I'm thinking of scraping/sanding away all of the delaminated bits, building back up with thickened epoxy, and reinforcing with a strip of fiberglass tape and more epoxy. Does this sound like a good approach?

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/17761F5B-9265-4378-87D8-81E0C5E8F7E1_zpsyymwss4x.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/17761F5B-9265-4378-87D8-81E0C5E8F7E1_zpsyymwss4x.jpg.html)

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r499/marksevereid/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/8F686C58-4CF2-4D6C-8B55-26492D3F0AA6_zpszdatdkcw.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/marksevereid/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/8F686C58-4CF2-4D6C-8B55-26492D3F0AA6_zpszdatdkcw.jpg.html)

lupussonic
04-28-2016, 06:21 PM
Sounds good to me.
How were these boats made originally ? It looks like the bow must have been pressed in a mold or something. Is it two sheets of ply? Or layers of veneer ? We're these home build kits?

Never seen a Peanut before, so take my advice with...


a pinch of salt. :d

Markse
04-29-2016, 03:05 PM
I've read - on this very forum - descriptions of repairing cold-molded hulls by cutting/grinding away the damaged portions and then patching in new veneer (using mahogany door skin or the like) a layer at a time. Anyone have experience with this method?

Markse
04-29-2016, 03:07 PM
Sounds good to me.
How were these boats made originally ? It looks like the bow must have been pressed in a mold or something. Is it two sheets of ply? Or layers of veneer ? We're these home build kits?

Never seen a Peanut before, so take my advice with...


a pinch of salt. :d

It's my understanding that these boats were cold molded from layers of veneer. Makes the repair process even more of a head-scratcher...

Damian James
04-30-2016, 04:03 AM
I've never seen one of those before - it looks like a bathtub. What a great project. That rotten bit at the bow... yes it must go, but maybe you can be really conservative in what you cut out, using a 1/2 or 1/4" sharp chisel. Then (assuming you will paint the outside) you can just fill in the gross gaps with thickened epoxy but leave enough room for a high-build undercoat on top of a fairing coat of microballons or similar. Having said that, cold-molded or not you can see evidence of clever spiling on the outer layer of veneer that's almost worth finishing bright and showing off.

samuel joff
04-30-2016, 06:18 AM
I like your writing here @Damian. Yeah it will fantastic look if paint outside. Will wait for your picture.

wizbang 13
04-30-2016, 07:13 AM
I would be very wary of removing that "rot". It looks like just chafe damage. A bit of de lamination.
IF you do some plank replacement, use thin WOOD from the tablesaw, not plywood or doorskins.
Again...CPES for this boat!!
My family had a peanut in the sixties.

swoody126
04-30-2016, 08:07 AM
hey Mark

that bit of damage on the bow has been working on my mind

the method you proposed for the transom/stern fix sounds sound for the bow issue

maybe do some heavy masking on the outside and glass cloth bedding on the inside w/ thickened pox to fair her out(in)

and while you're at it carry the bedded cloth down to where the bow eye is located, giving it some reinforcement as well

once the inside is done flip her over, remove the masking tape & treat the outside of the bow in the same manner

as a painted hull you won't be able to see the patching any way & it should be much stronger than anything you could affect w/ skinny pieces of wood

if my suppose is correct, you are working toward a USEABLE vessel and if so this method of repair should work well

in the end you are going to have a COMPOSITE boat where some areas are fiberglass/epoxy w/ a thin wooden core

a good coating of GLOSS RUSTOLEUM inside & out, over the pox/glass repaired/faired hull, will render her QUITE USEABLE for many years to come

FAIR SEAS & A FOLLOWING BREEZE

sw

Markse
04-30-2016, 03:33 PM
I've never seen one of those before - it looks like a bathtub. What a great project. That rotten bit at the bow... yes it must go, but maybe you can be really conservative in what you cut out, using a 1/2 or 1/4" sharp chisel. Then (assuming you will paint the outside) you can just fill in the gross gaps with thickened epoxy but leave enough room for a high-build undercoat on top of a fairing coat of microballons or similar. Having said that, cold-molded or not you can see evidence of clever spiling on the outer layer of veneer that's almost worth finishing bright and showing off.

Exactly. Just like a claw-foot bathtub!

Markse
04-30-2016, 03:43 PM
hey Mark

that bit of damage on the bow has been working on my mind

the method you proposed for the transom/stern fix sounds sound for the bow issue

maybe do some heavy masking on the outside and glass cloth bedding on the inside w/ thickened pox to fair her out(in)

and while you're at it carry the bedded cloth down to where the bow eye is located, giving it some reinforcement as well

once the inside is done flip her over, remove the masking tape & treat the outside of the bow in the same manner

as a painted hull you won't be able to see the patching any way & it should be much stronger than anything you could affect w/ skinny pieces of wood

if my suppose is correct, you are working toward a USEABLE vessel and if so this method of repair should work well

in the end you are going to have a COMPOSITE boat where some areas are fiberglass/epoxy w/ a thin wooden core

a good coating of GLOSS RUSTOLEUM inside & out, over the pox/glass repaired/faired hull, will render her QUITE USEABLE for many years to come

FAIR SEAS & A FOLLOWING BREEZE

sw

Hi Steve,

Right. I'm going for a useable, decent looking boat. The only way I'd end up with a boat-show finish is to have someone else do the work! The idea of using fiberglass for the bow repair and some of the delaminated places is starting to sound very good. Off to do some research.

Markse
04-30-2016, 03:56 PM
I would be very wary of removing that "rot". It looks like just chafe damage. A bit of de lamination.
IF you do some plank replacement, use thin WOOD from the tablesaw, not plywood or doorskins.
Again...CPES for this boat!!
My family had a peanut in the sixties.

Hi wizbang,

I'll need to replace what would be the starboard side sheer plank on a conventionally constructed boat. I was thinking of 1/4" marine ply. Is a solid piece of mahogany a better approach? Yeah, the whole thing will be slathered in CPES!

Any pictures of that Peanut boat?

wizbang 13
04-30-2016, 10:49 PM
yes , solid wood is better for a plank , sheer or otherwise, than ply.
You can lam it yourself, that way you control the grain , and have no junky"core" doing no good.
no pics, I was only a kid. It had a lug rig with a blue sail , that I later pinched and rigged to a canoe, then got creosote all over it sailing around pilings in the Housatonic River.
I did not appreciate what a cool boat it was @ 10 years old.
bruce