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Randall Dedrickson
02-09-2016, 11:11 PM
I am building Hylans Beach pea and am researching how to copper rivet the brass plates to the centerboard for the t-handle. He calls for # 10 copper rivet there also at the snotter end of the sprit to keep it from splitting. I was thinking of solid copper rod cut to length and copper burrs on each end peened over to hold. Any other suggestions?

Todd Bradshaw
02-10-2016, 02:37 AM
Has anybody ever split a sprit? As far as I have seen, none of my customers ever did much more than bore a hole through the sprit's end for attaching the snotter, and I'm not aware of any of them splitting. Rather than a cross-grain rivet, I'd rather wrap the end neatly with a small band of twine and epoxy coat or varnish it, or inlet a light metal band around the end if I thought it needed reinforcement.

Thorne
02-10-2016, 09:49 AM
What Todd says. I've only done a little bit of spritsail work, some in friend's boats, and also never heard of the sprit splitting.

On mine I did what passes for fancy work (for me) around the edges of the leather to keep the sprit from marking the varnish on the mast -- which might also work for yours. The copper tacks are not a good idea, as they require the sprit to always be in the correct orientation -- better to just glue and/or stitch the leather in place.

http://www.luckhardt.com/spritboomturkshead1.jpg

Canoeyawl
02-10-2016, 11:51 AM
I have always used a rivet in that application. I use a flat washer rather than a dished rove and it just disappears.
(I have even used a small sheave in that notch with the axle acting as the rivet. I like to adjust my sails without climbing around in the boat!)

Randall Dedrickson
02-10-2016, 07:47 PM
I'm less concerned about the sprit at this time and am working on the centerboard that has small brass plates riveted at the top edge. Thanks for the replys and was actually considering somekind of wrap at the sprit if needed.

Eric Hvalsoe
02-11-2016, 11:43 AM
I usually slot the lower end of the sprit and do a short wrap of glass and epoxy in that area. My sprit yards are on the slender side.

Canoeyawl
02-11-2016, 12:07 PM
I missed it! You should be able to do without washers or roves, just drill the right sized holes in the brass plate and head the rivets.
#10 is just a bit less than 3/16" if you are looking for copper stock that size, bare electrical ground wire will work.

Randall Dedrickson
02-11-2016, 11:31 PM
I missed it! You should be able to do without washers or roves, just drill the right sized holes in the brass plate and head the rivets.
#10 is just a bit less than 3/16" if you are looking for copper stock that size, bare electrical ground wire will work.

Thanks Canoeyawl, yeah I was thinking somewhat the same.

Canoeyawl
02-12-2016, 10:44 AM
I often use a small countersink in the "plate" or attachment, then head the rivet into it then file it flush. Just the smallest amount and it will be impossible to pull it through. A common attachment for blocks, on goosenecks, tiller heads and etc.