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Rob Waywell
05-24-2000, 11:52 AM
Any recommendations on sources (preferably in Ontario) for band saw blades? I have a Delta 10" band saw. It's big enough for the cutting I want to do, but I haven't found a blade that will last.

Thanks

Rob Waywell
05-24-2000, 11:52 AM
Any recommendations on sources (preferably in Ontario) for band saw blades? I have a Delta 10" band saw. It's big enough for the cutting I want to do, but I haven't found a blade that will last.

Thanks

Rob Waywell
05-24-2000, 11:52 AM
Any recommendations on sources (preferably in Ontario) for band saw blades? I have a Delta 10" band saw. It's big enough for the cutting I want to do, but I haven't found a blade that will last.

Thanks

TomRobb
05-24-2000, 01:05 PM
Little saw, little radius wheels. Workhardening the blade sooner & it breaks? There's a small outfit that grinds rather than stamps out the teeth. Supposed to have little or no drift. I see them at the woodworking gadget shows. Sorry I don't remember the name.

TomRobb
05-24-2000, 01:05 PM
Little saw, little radius wheels. Workhardening the blade sooner & it breaks? There's a small outfit that grinds rather than stamps out the teeth. Supposed to have little or no drift. I see them at the woodworking gadget shows. Sorry I don't remember the name.

TomRobb
05-24-2000, 01:05 PM
Little saw, little radius wheels. Workhardening the blade sooner & it breaks? There's a small outfit that grinds rather than stamps out the teeth. Supposed to have little or no drift. I see them at the woodworking gadget shows. Sorry I don't remember the name.

Rob Waywell
05-24-2000, 04:27 PM
The blades aren't breaking, they just get dull way too fast. I know that the saw isn't big and certainly isn't industrial standard, but building/rebuilding is only a hobby and the saw fit the budget and the dimension requirements for the depth of cut.

Rob Waywell
05-24-2000, 04:27 PM
The blades aren't breaking, they just get dull way too fast. I know that the saw isn't big and certainly isn't industrial standard, but building/rebuilding is only a hobby and the saw fit the budget and the dimension requirements for the depth of cut.

Rob Waywell
05-24-2000, 04:27 PM
The blades aren't breaking, they just get dull way too fast. I know that the saw isn't big and certainly isn't industrial standard, but building/rebuilding is only a hobby and the saw fit the budget and the dimension requirements for the depth of cut.

TomRobb
05-25-2000, 07:37 AM
If there's not a good local source, and I can't imagine why there wouldn't be, try the tool catalogues. I think someone makes blades w/ hardened teeth. How long do your blades last? What are you cutting?

The little wheel comment was not supposed to be a put-down. Just an observation that in at least this case size does count (all else being equal). I wish I had the room and could afford one of those 24" saws, but had to settle for less too. Everything is compromise. We all make the compromises we can live with.

[This message has been edited by TomRobb (edited 05-25-2000).]

TomRobb
05-25-2000, 07:37 AM
If there's not a good local source, and I can't imagine why there wouldn't be, try the tool catalogues. I think someone makes blades w/ hardened teeth. How long do your blades last? What are you cutting?

The little wheel comment was not supposed to be a put-down. Just an observation that in at least this case size does count (all else being equal). I wish I had the room and could afford one of those 24" saws, but had to settle for less too. Everything is compromise. We all make the compromises we can live with.

[This message has been edited by TomRobb (edited 05-25-2000).]

TomRobb
05-25-2000, 07:37 AM
If there's not a good local source, and I can't imagine why there wouldn't be, try the tool catalogues. I think someone makes blades w/ hardened teeth. How long do your blades last? What are you cutting?

The little wheel comment was not supposed to be a put-down. Just an observation that in at least this case size does count (all else being equal). I wish I had the room and could afford one of those 24" saws, but had to settle for less too. Everything is compromise. We all make the compromises we can live with.

[This message has been edited by TomRobb (edited 05-25-2000).]

Ed Harrow
05-25-2000, 06:54 PM
Try www.leevalley.com. (http://www.leevalley.com.) They're up your way and have some really great stuff to spend your money on. I'm giving them a plug but I don't know what they have for BS blades. Another good source is Highland Hardware.

Ed Harrow
05-25-2000, 06:54 PM
Try www.leevalley.com. (http://www.leevalley.com.) They're up your way and have some really great stuff to spend your money on. I'm giving them a plug but I don't know what they have for BS blades. Another good source is Highland Hardware.

Ed Harrow
05-25-2000, 06:54 PM
Try www.leevalley.com. (http://www.leevalley.com.) They're up your way and have some really great stuff to spend your money on. I'm giving them a plug but I don't know what they have for BS blades. Another good source is Highland Hardware.

Ron Williamson
05-27-2000, 08:25 AM
Dull how fast?
My biggest problem is trying to make the bandsaw cut like my 6.5hp tablesaw, then the blade overheats or gets pushed into the guides or pops off.Too tight of a turn also does it.
You don't say where in Ontario ,but around here Murray's sharpening in Owen Sound or Welbeck sawmill near Durham.
I have gotten good mail order service from Lee Valley, but the people on the phones don't seem to know alot of technical stuff.
At 12 or 13 bucks apiece ,we just keep half a dozen around and trash them when required.

[This message has been edited by Ron Williamson (edited 05-27-2000).]

Ron Williamson
05-27-2000, 08:25 AM
Dull how fast?
My biggest problem is trying to make the bandsaw cut like my 6.5hp tablesaw, then the blade overheats or gets pushed into the guides or pops off.Too tight of a turn also does it.
You don't say where in Ontario ,but around here Murray's sharpening in Owen Sound or Welbeck sawmill near Durham.
I have gotten good mail order service from Lee Valley, but the people on the phones don't seem to know alot of technical stuff.
At 12 or 13 bucks apiece ,we just keep half a dozen around and trash them when required.

[This message has been edited by Ron Williamson (edited 05-27-2000).]

Ron Williamson
05-27-2000, 08:25 AM
Dull how fast?
My biggest problem is trying to make the bandsaw cut like my 6.5hp tablesaw, then the blade overheats or gets pushed into the guides or pops off.Too tight of a turn also does it.
You don't say where in Ontario ,but around here Murray's sharpening in Owen Sound or Welbeck sawmill near Durham.
I have gotten good mail order service from Lee Valley, but the people on the phones don't seem to know alot of technical stuff.
At 12 or 13 bucks apiece ,we just keep half a dozen around and trash them when required.

[This message has been edited by Ron Williamson (edited 05-27-2000).]

Vern D
05-29-2000, 12:50 AM
sounds like you are using a regular carbon blade and cutting a wood that is of a hard variety. IU have gone to a bi-metal blademade by lenox.(sp?). they also make a blade with carbide tips though a little spendy; about $100.00 for my 93 1/2". The bi-metal blade has the teeth made of high speed steel bonded to a regular steel back. the cost was about$36.00 here in oregon. thats 3X the cost of a regular blade but i expect to get better mileage, so time will tell. Highland hardware in atlanta sells a variable pitch resaw blade that acording to a friend is a nice blade. About $25.00 for that one. not sure about the longevity though. check out "THE BAND SAW HANDBOOK" by MARK DUGINSKE. He offers a bunch of reasons for dulling a blade prematurely.
you should be able to locate a blade localy via the yellow pages. saws, sawblades, metalworking, ect.... good luck to you

Vern D
05-29-2000, 12:50 AM
sounds like you are using a regular carbon blade and cutting a wood that is of a hard variety. IU have gone to a bi-metal blademade by lenox.(sp?). they also make a blade with carbide tips though a little spendy; about $100.00 for my 93 1/2". The bi-metal blade has the teeth made of high speed steel bonded to a regular steel back. the cost was about$36.00 here in oregon. thats 3X the cost of a regular blade but i expect to get better mileage, so time will tell. Highland hardware in atlanta sells a variable pitch resaw blade that acording to a friend is a nice blade. About $25.00 for that one. not sure about the longevity though. check out "THE BAND SAW HANDBOOK" by MARK DUGINSKE. He offers a bunch of reasons for dulling a blade prematurely.
you should be able to locate a blade localy via the yellow pages. saws, sawblades, metalworking, ect.... good luck to you

Vern D
05-29-2000, 12:50 AM
sounds like you are using a regular carbon blade and cutting a wood that is of a hard variety. IU have gone to a bi-metal blademade by lenox.(sp?). they also make a blade with carbide tips though a little spendy; about $100.00 for my 93 1/2". The bi-metal blade has the teeth made of high speed steel bonded to a regular steel back. the cost was about$36.00 here in oregon. thats 3X the cost of a regular blade but i expect to get better mileage, so time will tell. Highland hardware in atlanta sells a variable pitch resaw blade that acording to a friend is a nice blade. About $25.00 for that one. not sure about the longevity though. check out "THE BAND SAW HANDBOOK" by MARK DUGINSKE. He offers a bunch of reasons for dulling a blade prematurely.
you should be able to locate a blade localy via the yellow pages. saws, sawblades, metalworking, ect.... good luck to you

Rob Waywell
05-29-2000, 07:48 AM
Thanks for the responses. I was actually ripping 2X4 spruce to make a temporary keel on a 14 1/2' runabout I'm working on. Admittedly this is a job that could have been done just as well or better on a table saw if I'd had one available.
I expect the consensus is right that the blade was overheating and losing its temper.

Rob

Rob Waywell
05-29-2000, 07:48 AM
Thanks for the responses. I was actually ripping 2X4 spruce to make a temporary keel on a 14 1/2' runabout I'm working on. Admittedly this is a job that could have been done just as well or better on a table saw if I'd had one available.
I expect the consensus is right that the blade was overheating and losing its temper.

Rob

Rob Waywell
05-29-2000, 07:48 AM
Thanks for the responses. I was actually ripping 2X4 spruce to make a temporary keel on a 14 1/2' runabout I'm working on. Admittedly this is a job that could have been done just as well or better on a table saw if I'd had one available.
I expect the consensus is right that the blade was overheating and losing its temper.

Rob

Ed Harrow
06-23-2000, 10:11 PM
I just fired up my old Delta bandsaw after installing the height kit and a Highland Hardware Woodslicer blade. WOW! That blade is a beauty! To be sure I've not resawed a 12" wide piece of whatever, but the finish the blade produces is very good, and little or no tendency to wander.
http://highland-hardware.com/index.html

Tell them Bob Cleek (me too, if you want) sent you.

Ed Harrow
06-23-2000, 10:11 PM
I just fired up my old Delta bandsaw after installing the height kit and a Highland Hardware Woodslicer blade. WOW! That blade is a beauty! To be sure I've not resawed a 12" wide piece of whatever, but the finish the blade produces is very good, and little or no tendency to wander.
http://highland-hardware.com/index.html

Tell them Bob Cleek (me too, if you want) sent you.

Ed Harrow
06-23-2000, 10:11 PM
I just fired up my old Delta bandsaw after installing the height kit and a Highland Hardware Woodslicer blade. WOW! That blade is a beauty! To be sure I've not resawed a 12" wide piece of whatever, but the finish the blade produces is very good, and little or no tendency to wander.
http://highland-hardware.com/index.html

Tell them Bob Cleek (me too, if you want) sent you.

Vern D
07-03-2000, 02:09 AM
update on the bi-metal blade......
i've been ripping black walnut and purple heart like they are .20 a bft and no sign of that blade slowing down.
It does have a weird habit of setting up a harmonic and leaving a strange pattern on ther wood. Not the best for slicing veneer because of that i suppose. going to try a wood slicer too since i've heard nothing but good about them.
best, Vern

Vern D
07-03-2000, 02:09 AM
update on the bi-metal blade......
i've been ripping black walnut and purple heart like they are .20 a bft and no sign of that blade slowing down.
It does have a weird habit of setting up a harmonic and leaving a strange pattern on ther wood. Not the best for slicing veneer because of that i suppose. going to try a wood slicer too since i've heard nothing but good about them.
best, Vern

Vern D
07-03-2000, 02:09 AM
update on the bi-metal blade......
i've been ripping black walnut and purple heart like they are .20 a bft and no sign of that blade slowing down.
It does have a weird habit of setting up a harmonic and leaving a strange pattern on ther wood. Not the best for slicing veneer because of that i suppose. going to try a wood slicer too since i've heard nothing but good about them.
best, Vern

Rob Waywell
12-10-2000, 10:04 AM
As a belated update, I've been using a Resaw Bandsaw Blade from Lee Valley for the last couple of months and it seems to be holding up pretty well.

Rob Waywell
12-10-2000, 10:04 AM
As a belated update, I've been using a Resaw Bandsaw Blade from Lee Valley for the last couple of months and it seems to be holding up pretty well.

Rob Waywell
12-10-2000, 10:04 AM
As a belated update, I've been using a Resaw Bandsaw Blade from Lee Valley for the last couple of months and it seems to be holding up pretty well.

Frank Hagan
12-10-2000, 03:19 PM
The best band saw blades I've used are by Suffolk Machinery (creators of the Timberwolf Brand that used to be sold in Woodworker's Warehouse for about $28 for the 1/2" wide, 93 1/2" blade.) At their website, they sell the same blade for less than $15. I just bought three from them, and they were great to order from. The blades are even better than I had imagined. I'm now cutting through 8/4 oak with the 1/8" blade with ease.

Website pricing is at http://www.timberwolf1.com/swedish.html (the frame at the left lets you explore the rest of their site.)

Frank Hagan
12-10-2000, 03:19 PM
The best band saw blades I've used are by Suffolk Machinery (creators of the Timberwolf Brand that used to be sold in Woodworker's Warehouse for about $28 for the 1/2" wide, 93 1/2" blade.) At their website, they sell the same blade for less than $15. I just bought three from them, and they were great to order from. The blades are even better than I had imagined. I'm now cutting through 8/4 oak with the 1/8" blade with ease.

Website pricing is at http://www.timberwolf1.com/swedish.html (the frame at the left lets you explore the rest of their site.)

Frank Hagan
12-10-2000, 03:19 PM
The best band saw blades I've used are by Suffolk Machinery (creators of the Timberwolf Brand that used to be sold in Woodworker's Warehouse for about $28 for the 1/2" wide, 93 1/2" blade.) At their website, they sell the same blade for less than $15. I just bought three from them, and they were great to order from. The blades are even better than I had imagined. I'm now cutting through 8/4 oak with the 1/8" blade with ease.

Website pricing is at http://www.timberwolf1.com/swedish.html (the frame at the left lets you explore the rest of their site.)

Steve L.
12-10-2000, 09:36 PM
Here`s a couple more questions re. band saws.
What would you use on your tires to keep the rubber from hardening or drying out? Also
noticed Suffolk Machinery recomends lubing blade with bar oil cut with kerosene. Or Pam vegtable oil spray. Will this effect epoxy addhesion? Thanks, Steve L.

Steve L.
12-10-2000, 09:36 PM
Here`s a couple more questions re. band saws.
What would you use on your tires to keep the rubber from hardening or drying out? Also
noticed Suffolk Machinery recomends lubing blade with bar oil cut with kerosene. Or Pam vegtable oil spray. Will this effect epoxy addhesion? Thanks, Steve L.

Steve L.
12-10-2000, 09:36 PM
Here`s a couple more questions re. band saws.
What would you use on your tires to keep the rubber from hardening or drying out? Also
noticed Suffolk Machinery recomends lubing blade with bar oil cut with kerosene. Or Pam vegtable oil spray. Will this effect epoxy addhesion? Thanks, Steve L.

TomRobb
12-11-2000, 07:06 AM
Hardening rubber tires is a function of age and exposure to oxygen. They wear out. Don't we all. I'd keep them brushed off and replace them as necessary. Armor-All (sp? the car tire stuff) might keep them pretty longer. God knows what the residue does to the wood.

TomRobb
12-11-2000, 07:06 AM
Hardening rubber tires is a function of age and exposure to oxygen. They wear out. Don't we all. I'd keep them brushed off and replace them as necessary. Armor-All (sp? the car tire stuff) might keep them pretty longer. God knows what the residue does to the wood.

TomRobb
12-11-2000, 07:06 AM
Hardening rubber tires is a function of age and exposure to oxygen. They wear out. Don't we all. I'd keep them brushed off and replace them as necessary. Armor-All (sp? the car tire stuff) might keep them pretty longer. God knows what the residue does to the wood.