View Full Version : block plane blades
I have fairly old stanley 118 low angle block plane that needs a new blade. This isn't the block plane you see in every flea market across the states. The shoe isn't cast on this type and my boss carried one around in his bib's for years so when I found mine I was quite excited. It's time for a new blade and I've looked in Garret Wade as well as other vaious catalogs but they make no mention of a 118 when naming off replacement blades that will fit various planes. Anyone out there have a good source?
I have fairly old stanley 118 low angle block plane that needs a new blade. This isn't the block plane you see in every flea market across the states. The shoe isn't cast on this type and my boss carried one around in his bib's for years so when I found mine I was quite excited. It's time for a new blade and I've looked in Garret Wade as well as other vaious catalogs but they make no mention of a 118 when naming off replacement blades that will fit various planes. Anyone out there have a good source?
I have fairly old stanley 118 low angle block plane that needs a new blade. This isn't the block plane you see in every flea market across the states. The shoe isn't cast on this type and my boss carried one around in his bib's for years so when I found mine I was quite excited. It's time for a new blade and I've looked in Garret Wade as well as other vaious catalogs but they make no mention of a 118 when naming off replacement blades that will fit various planes. Anyone out there have a good source?
NormMessinger
03-31-2002, 11:45 AM
Start your search here: http://www.hocktools.com/products.htm . I didn't see a replacement blade for a 118 on a quick scan but if Hock makes on you'll not go wrong.
--Norm
NormMessinger
03-31-2002, 11:45 AM
Start your search here: http://www.hocktools.com/products.htm . I didn't see a replacement blade for a 118 on a quick scan but if Hock makes on you'll not go wrong.
--Norm
NormMessinger
03-31-2002, 11:45 AM
Start your search here: http://www.hocktools.com/products.htm . I didn't see a replacement blade for a 118 on a quick scan but if Hock makes on you'll not go wrong.
--Norm
Dave Fleming
03-31-2002, 11:58 AM
My old tool reference guide, a copy of a wholesale tool companies catalog from 1926 makes no mention of a ***118*** block plane BUT in the replacement blade section they mention a *** 18 *** as an adjustable type 1 5/8 inches wide.
Do a search for the Old Tools list and ask amongst those folks or do a google search using...Planes or Stanley and see what comes up.
As far as replacement blades in general go, if you are after a same type one then I believe that Woodcraft Supply is a good source but if you wish to upgrade so to speak then Ron Hock is the man to talk to. He has a web site.
No:18, cutter tightened by a knuckle-joint in the cap.
Length 6 inches
Cutter 1 5/8 inches
Nickled Trimmings
Weight 1 1/2 lbs
Cost $3.00
Dave Fleming
03-31-2002, 11:58 AM
My old tool reference guide, a copy of a wholesale tool companies catalog from 1926 makes no mention of a ***118*** block plane BUT in the replacement blade section they mention a *** 18 *** as an adjustable type 1 5/8 inches wide.
Do a search for the Old Tools list and ask amongst those folks or do a google search using...Planes or Stanley and see what comes up.
As far as replacement blades in general go, if you are after a same type one then I believe that Woodcraft Supply is a good source but if you wish to upgrade so to speak then Ron Hock is the man to talk to. He has a web site.
No:18, cutter tightened by a knuckle-joint in the cap.
Length 6 inches
Cutter 1 5/8 inches
Nickled Trimmings
Weight 1 1/2 lbs
Cost $3.00
Dave Fleming
03-31-2002, 11:58 AM
My old tool reference guide, a copy of a wholesale tool companies catalog from 1926 makes no mention of a ***118*** block plane BUT in the replacement blade section they mention a *** 18 *** as an adjustable type 1 5/8 inches wide.
Do a search for the Old Tools list and ask amongst those folks or do a google search using...Planes or Stanley and see what comes up.
As far as replacement blades in general go, if you are after a same type one then I believe that Woodcraft Supply is a good source but if you wish to upgrade so to speak then Ron Hock is the man to talk to. He has a web site.
No:18, cutter tightened by a knuckle-joint in the cap.
Length 6 inches
Cutter 1 5/8 inches
Nickled Trimmings
Weight 1 1/2 lbs
Cost $3.00
Since you don't live too far from Seattle you should check out "Hardwick's" if you haven't already. Their website is www.ehardwicks.com (http://www.ehardwicks.com) . Give them a call they probably have what you need. Fun place to visit. Good luck.
Since you don't live too far from Seattle you should check out "Hardwick's" if you haven't already. Their website is www.ehardwicks.com (http://www.ehardwicks.com) . Give them a call they probably have what you need. Fun place to visit. Good luck.
Since you don't live too far from Seattle you should check out "Hardwick's" if you haven't already. Their website is www.ehardwicks.com (http://www.ehardwicks.com) . Give them a call they probably have what you need. Fun place to visit. Good luck.
Frank Wentzel
03-31-2002, 12:26 PM
For a good description of this plane, as well as almost any other Stanley plane, check out this website:
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm
/// Frank ///
Frank Wentzel
03-31-2002, 12:26 PM
For a good description of this plane, as well as almost any other Stanley plane, check out this website:
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm
/// Frank ///
Frank Wentzel
03-31-2002, 12:26 PM
For a good description of this plane, as well as almost any other Stanley plane, check out this website:
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm
/// Frank ///
hey Frank, great website, by the sounds of it, maybe I should think about upgrading.lol I love that piece of junk 118
hey Frank, great website, by the sounds of it, maybe I should think about upgrading.lol I love that piece of junk 118
hey Frank, great website, by the sounds of it, maybe I should think about upgrading.lol I love that piece of junk 118
Frank Wentzel
03-31-2002, 06:21 PM
WFK
I suspect that it's not so much the details in the construction of the tool but the skill of the user that counts the most. A fancier plane may have more convenient and precise adjustment features, but if this plane performs up to your expectations it's still a good tool. You might feel silly putting a $30 Hock iron in it (probably a worthwhile upgrade), but the website's author - Patrick - seems to think well of the tool. That said, the Lie Nielson and Veritas planes are soooo pretty. (I can't afford one either!) :( At a woodworking show last weekend I spent well over half-a-hour at the Lie Nielson booth just caressing the planes. :D
/// Frank ///
[ 03-31-2002, 07:23 PM: Message edited by: Frank Wentzel ]
Frank Wentzel
03-31-2002, 06:21 PM
WFK
I suspect that it's not so much the details in the construction of the tool but the skill of the user that counts the most. A fancier plane may have more convenient and precise adjustment features, but if this plane performs up to your expectations it's still a good tool. You might feel silly putting a $30 Hock iron in it (probably a worthwhile upgrade), but the website's author - Patrick - seems to think well of the tool. That said, the Lie Nielson and Veritas planes are soooo pretty. (I can't afford one either!) :( At a woodworking show last weekend I spent well over half-a-hour at the Lie Nielson booth just caressing the planes. :D
/// Frank ///
[ 03-31-2002, 07:23 PM: Message edited by: Frank Wentzel ]
Frank Wentzel
03-31-2002, 06:21 PM
WFK
I suspect that it's not so much the details in the construction of the tool but the skill of the user that counts the most. A fancier plane may have more convenient and precise adjustment features, but if this plane performs up to your expectations it's still a good tool. You might feel silly putting a $30 Hock iron in it (probably a worthwhile upgrade), but the website's author - Patrick - seems to think well of the tool. That said, the Lie Nielson and Veritas planes are soooo pretty. (I can't afford one either!) :( At a woodworking show last weekend I spent well over half-a-hour at the Lie Nielson booth just caressing the planes. :D
/// Frank ///
[ 03-31-2002, 07:23 PM: Message edited by: Frank Wentzel ]
Wayne Jeffers
03-31-2002, 09:57 PM
Or if you don't want to spend a lot of money, you could find your nearest used tool dealer. He probably has a supply of 60- or 80-year-old Stanley irons that will match anything made today and will far surpass most made today. And don't be surprised if he will sell you one of these vintage gems for $2.
A number of used tool dealers are listed here: http://www-2.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/tools.html
Wayne
Wayne Jeffers
03-31-2002, 09:57 PM
Or if you don't want to spend a lot of money, you could find your nearest used tool dealer. He probably has a supply of 60- or 80-year-old Stanley irons that will match anything made today and will far surpass most made today. And don't be surprised if he will sell you one of these vintage gems for $2.
A number of used tool dealers are listed here: http://www-2.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/tools.html
Wayne
Wayne Jeffers
03-31-2002, 09:57 PM
Or if you don't want to spend a lot of money, you could find your nearest used tool dealer. He probably has a supply of 60- or 80-year-old Stanley irons that will match anything made today and will far surpass most made today. And don't be surprised if he will sell you one of these vintage gems for $2.
A number of used tool dealers are listed here: http://www-2.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/tools.html
Wayne
Hugh Paterson
04-01-2002, 04:14 AM
Frank, have a look at the Clifton planes manufactured in the UK, (Sheffield I think).I spent a few minutes hacking at a piece of wood at the woodworking show in Glasgow a couple of weeks ago and promptly purchased one. Oh and for good measure a pair of thier clico spokeshaves are on order, Now if only all the other junk tools in my box looked as good as they do.
Shug.
Hugh Paterson
04-01-2002, 04:14 AM
Frank, have a look at the Clifton planes manufactured in the UK, (Sheffield I think).I spent a few minutes hacking at a piece of wood at the woodworking show in Glasgow a couple of weeks ago and promptly purchased one. Oh and for good measure a pair of thier clico spokeshaves are on order, Now if only all the other junk tools in my box looked as good as they do.
Shug.
Hugh Paterson
04-01-2002, 04:14 AM
Frank, have a look at the Clifton planes manufactured in the UK, (Sheffield I think).I spent a few minutes hacking at a piece of wood at the woodworking show in Glasgow a couple of weeks ago and promptly purchased one. Oh and for good measure a pair of thier clico spokeshaves are on order, Now if only all the other junk tools in my box looked as good as they do.
Shug.
Bruce Taylor
04-01-2002, 07:30 AM
but the website's author - Patrick - seems to think well of the toolUm, did you read to the end of Patrick's comment?
"This plane is also a piece of junk when compared to the other low angle block planes, but some might find it useful to strip paint."
Has anyone tried the Lee Valley A2 steel blades? They cost a little more than the Hock blades, but supposedly hold an edge better. My question is: what kind of edge can you put on them in the first place?
And what is A2 steel, exactly?
Bruce Taylor
04-01-2002, 07:30 AM
but the website's author - Patrick - seems to think well of the toolUm, did you read to the end of Patrick's comment?
"This plane is also a piece of junk when compared to the other low angle block planes, but some might find it useful to strip paint."
Has anyone tried the Lee Valley A2 steel blades? They cost a little more than the Hock blades, but supposedly hold an edge better. My question is: what kind of edge can you put on them in the first place?
And what is A2 steel, exactly?
Bruce Taylor
04-01-2002, 07:30 AM
but the website's author - Patrick - seems to think well of the toolUm, did you read to the end of Patrick's comment?
"This plane is also a piece of junk when compared to the other low angle block planes, but some might find it useful to strip paint."
Has anyone tried the Lee Valley A2 steel blades? They cost a little more than the Hock blades, but supposedly hold an edge better. My question is: what kind of edge can you put on them in the first place?
And what is A2 steel, exactly?
Tom Dugan
04-01-2002, 09:40 AM
According to the Hock website, A2 is a high-carbon tool steel with chromium and molybdenum added. It was my impression that "A2" meant it was air-hardening, but someone might set me right on that.
WFK, I know what it's like to be in love with a tool, so I recommend emailing Ron Hock and ask him if he has irons for the 118 (ron@hocktools.com). Or, you may want to retire it with full honors and get something with a little more heft.
-T
Tom Dugan
04-01-2002, 09:40 AM
According to the Hock website, A2 is a high-carbon tool steel with chromium and molybdenum added. It was my impression that "A2" meant it was air-hardening, but someone might set me right on that.
WFK, I know what it's like to be in love with a tool, so I recommend emailing Ron Hock and ask him if he has irons for the 118 (ron@hocktools.com). Or, you may want to retire it with full honors and get something with a little more heft.
-T
Tom Dugan
04-01-2002, 09:40 AM
According to the Hock website, A2 is a high-carbon tool steel with chromium and molybdenum added. It was my impression that "A2" meant it was air-hardening, but someone might set me right on that.
WFK, I know what it's like to be in love with a tool, so I recommend emailing Ron Hock and ask him if he has irons for the 118 (ron@hocktools.com). Or, you may want to retire it with full honors and get something with a little more heft.
-T
LaMess
04-01-2002, 10:46 AM
Yes A is for air.
Carbon 1%
Manganese 0.6
Chromium 5.25
Molybdenum 1.1
Vanadium 0.25
It will harden to Rc 64 but is typically tempered to Rc61. It takes a better edge and is more wear resistant than simple carbon steels such as 1095 and O1 (O is for oil)which are excellent tool steels.
D2 is used for superior planer blades (D stands for danged if I know). If you can get an iron made of this stuff you will be impressed. 1.67% Carbon! 12% Chromium (not enough to be stainless)!
Regards
Lynn
LaMess
04-01-2002, 10:46 AM
Yes A is for air.
Carbon 1%
Manganese 0.6
Chromium 5.25
Molybdenum 1.1
Vanadium 0.25
It will harden to Rc 64 but is typically tempered to Rc61. It takes a better edge and is more wear resistant than simple carbon steels such as 1095 and O1 (O is for oil)which are excellent tool steels.
D2 is used for superior planer blades (D stands for danged if I know). If you can get an iron made of this stuff you will be impressed. 1.67% Carbon! 12% Chromium (not enough to be stainless)!
Regards
Lynn
LaMess
04-01-2002, 10:46 AM
Yes A is for air.
Carbon 1%
Manganese 0.6
Chromium 5.25
Molybdenum 1.1
Vanadium 0.25
It will harden to Rc 64 but is typically tempered to Rc61. It takes a better edge and is more wear resistant than simple carbon steels such as 1095 and O1 (O is for oil)which are excellent tool steels.
D2 is used for superior planer blades (D stands for danged if I know). If you can get an iron made of this stuff you will be impressed. 1.67% Carbon! 12% Chromium (not enough to be stainless)!
Regards
Lynn
LaMess
04-01-2002, 11:10 AM
Oh Yes. If this blade does not have machined grooves for adjustment porpoises It would be exceptionally easy to make your own and then you would have to smile every time you used it.
I would reccomend O1 as the best steel for the homebuilt cutting tool. Just cut, file or grind the shape you want then heat the cutting end with a torch until a magnet won't stick and dump it into 150 F ATF. Cook it in the oven at 325F for an hour to releive stress and you have it.
You can get some Steel from these folks if you don't mind dealing with a Texan. ~$12 for a 1/4"x2"x1'
O1 Source (http://www.texasknife.com/store/s-pages/TKS_MainframeStore.htm)
LaMess
04-01-2002, 11:10 AM
Oh Yes. If this blade does not have machined grooves for adjustment porpoises It would be exceptionally easy to make your own and then you would have to smile every time you used it.
I would reccomend O1 as the best steel for the homebuilt cutting tool. Just cut, file or grind the shape you want then heat the cutting end with a torch until a magnet won't stick and dump it into 150 F ATF. Cook it in the oven at 325F for an hour to releive stress and you have it.
You can get some Steel from these folks if you don't mind dealing with a Texan. ~$12 for a 1/4"x2"x1'
O1 Source (http://www.texasknife.com/store/s-pages/TKS_MainframeStore.htm)
LaMess
04-01-2002, 11:10 AM
Oh Yes. If this blade does not have machined grooves for adjustment porpoises It would be exceptionally easy to make your own and then you would have to smile every time you used it.
I would reccomend O1 as the best steel for the homebuilt cutting tool. Just cut, file or grind the shape you want then heat the cutting end with a torch until a magnet won't stick and dump it into 150 F ATF. Cook it in the oven at 325F for an hour to releive stress and you have it.
You can get some Steel from these folks if you don't mind dealing with a Texan. ~$12 for a 1/4"x2"x1'
O1 Source (http://www.texasknife.com/store/s-pages/TKS_MainframeStore.htm)
Ed Harrow
04-01-2002, 11:32 AM
Why ATF?
Ed Harrow
04-01-2002, 11:32 AM
Why ATF?
Ed Harrow
04-01-2002, 11:32 AM
Why ATF?
Tom Dugan
04-01-2002, 12:35 PM
Why indeed? If you're going to spread the aroma of hot oil around, better to use peanut or olive (extra virgins need not apply). You don't need more than a pint to quench a little thang like a plane blade, although that's about the absolute minimum. Anyway, my point is; with a little more $$ you get a much nicer smell.
-T
Tom Dugan
04-01-2002, 12:35 PM
Why indeed? If you're going to spread the aroma of hot oil around, better to use peanut or olive (extra virgins need not apply). You don't need more than a pint to quench a little thang like a plane blade, although that's about the absolute minimum. Anyway, my point is; with a little more $$ you get a much nicer smell.
-T
Tom Dugan
04-01-2002, 12:35 PM
Why indeed? If you're going to spread the aroma of hot oil around, better to use peanut or olive (extra virgins need not apply). You don't need more than a pint to quench a little thang like a plane blade, although that's about the absolute minimum. Anyway, my point is; with a little more $$ you get a much nicer smell.
-T
LaMess
04-01-2002, 12:54 PM
Different oils quench at different speeds. You can either try a lot of oils until you find the best one or you can follow the advice of those who claim to have done so. I chose the latter option and am only parroting their advice. Don't know if it's best or not. O1 is, however, very forgiving. I've even used water just for fun and if I hadn't looked cross-eyed at it before tempering I might have had a fillet knife.
Some people get very anal - as in 'I bought 300 gal of the same lot # and I can't spare a pint. When this is gone I don't know what I'll do!'. Others dunk it in any ol' thing.
ATF ignites during the quench and I really like that. Purpose made oils have additives that prevent that so I have avoided them. Do vegetable oils ignite? How do they smell burning? Guess I'll have to try it.
Regards
Lynn
[ 04-01-2002, 02:11 PM: Message edited by: LAMESS ]
LaMess
04-01-2002, 12:54 PM
Different oils quench at different speeds. You can either try a lot of oils until you find the best one or you can follow the advice of those who claim to have done so. I chose the latter option and am only parroting their advice. Don't know if it's best or not. O1 is, however, very forgiving. I've even used water just for fun and if I hadn't looked cross-eyed at it before tempering I might have had a fillet knife.
Some people get very anal - as in 'I bought 300 gal of the same lot # and I can't spare a pint. When this is gone I don't know what I'll do!'. Others dunk it in any ol' thing.
ATF ignites during the quench and I really like that. Purpose made oils have additives that prevent that so I have avoided them. Do vegetable oils ignite? How do they smell burning? Guess I'll have to try it.
Regards
Lynn
[ 04-01-2002, 02:11 PM: Message edited by: LAMESS ]
LaMess
04-01-2002, 12:54 PM
Different oils quench at different speeds. You can either try a lot of oils until you find the best one or you can follow the advice of those who claim to have done so. I chose the latter option and am only parroting their advice. Don't know if it's best or not. O1 is, however, very forgiving. I've even used water just for fun and if I hadn't looked cross-eyed at it before tempering I might have had a fillet knife.
Some people get very anal - as in 'I bought 300 gal of the same lot # and I can't spare a pint. When this is gone I don't know what I'll do!'. Others dunk it in any ol' thing.
ATF ignites during the quench and I really like that. Purpose made oils have additives that prevent that so I have avoided them. Do vegetable oils ignite? How do they smell burning? Guess I'll have to try it.
Regards
Lynn
[ 04-01-2002, 02:11 PM: Message edited by: LAMESS ]
Bruce Taylor
04-02-2002, 10:37 AM
Thanks for the info, Lynn. Looks like that A2 is worth a try.
I think I'll buy the readymade blades, though. This DIY thing can go too far, LOL. Does anybody remember that hilarious Fine Woodworking piece on making your own steel?
"Lately, I've been dissatisfied with the quality of the steel in tools I get at the local True Value, so I decided to make my own. The process is quite simple, and with practice anyone can get good results. To get started, you'll need 20 or 30 tons of high-grade ore, 15 tons of low-sulfur coal, oxygen, and a dab of molybdenum...."
Bruce Taylor
04-02-2002, 10:37 AM
Thanks for the info, Lynn. Looks like that A2 is worth a try.
I think I'll buy the readymade blades, though. This DIY thing can go too far, LOL. Does anybody remember that hilarious Fine Woodworking piece on making your own steel?
"Lately, I've been dissatisfied with the quality of the steel in tools I get at the local True Value, so I decided to make my own. The process is quite simple, and with practice anyone can get good results. To get started, you'll need 20 or 30 tons of high-grade ore, 15 tons of low-sulfur coal, oxygen, and a dab of molybdenum...."
Bruce Taylor
04-02-2002, 10:37 AM
Thanks for the info, Lynn. Looks like that A2 is worth a try.
I think I'll buy the readymade blades, though. This DIY thing can go too far, LOL. Does anybody remember that hilarious Fine Woodworking piece on making your own steel?
"Lately, I've been dissatisfied with the quality of the steel in tools I get at the local True Value, so I decided to make my own. The process is quite simple, and with practice anyone can get good results. To get started, you'll need 20 or 30 tons of high-grade ore, 15 tons of low-sulfur coal, oxygen, and a dab of molybdenum...."
LaMess
04-02-2002, 11:26 AM
I remember it and laughed when you reminded me. Some Japanese sword makers make their own steel each time they forge a blade.
LaMess
04-02-2002, 11:26 AM
I remember it and laughed when you reminded me. Some Japanese sword makers make their own steel each time they forge a blade.
LaMess
04-02-2002, 11:26 AM
I remember it and laughed when you reminded me. Some Japanese sword makers make their own steel each time they forge a blade.
Tom Dugan
04-02-2002, 11:39 AM
Ha! You laugh!
http://www.rockisland.com/~marshall/Images/Pouring.JPG
When it comes to hobbies, I honestly think there are no limits.
-T
Tom Dugan
04-02-2002, 11:39 AM
Ha! You laugh!
http://www.rockisland.com/~marshall/Images/Pouring.JPG
When it comes to hobbies, I honestly think there are no limits.
-T
Tom Dugan
04-02-2002, 11:39 AM
Ha! You laugh!
http://www.rockisland.com/~marshall/Images/Pouring.JPG
When it comes to hobbies, I honestly think there are no limits.
-T
Dave Fleming
04-02-2002, 11:58 AM
Tom, that one of Stuart Marshalls' Coupla Furnaces?
Dave Fleming
04-02-2002, 11:58 AM
Tom, that one of Stuart Marshalls' Coupla Furnaces?
Dave Fleming
04-02-2002, 11:58 AM
Tom, that one of Stuart Marshalls' Coupla Furnaces?
Tom Dugan
04-02-2002, 02:17 PM
Yep. http://www.rockisland.com/~marshall/cupola.html
Tom Dugan
04-02-2002, 02:17 PM
Yep. http://www.rockisland.com/~marshall/cupola.html
Tom Dugan
04-02-2002, 02:17 PM
Yep. http://www.rockisland.com/~marshall/cupola.html
LaMess
04-02-2002, 02:23 PM
Way too cool
LaMess
04-02-2002, 02:23 PM
Way too cool
LaMess
04-02-2002, 02:23 PM
Way too cool
Dave Fleming
04-02-2002, 02:40 PM
Don't know the fellow but know of him from a mutual acquaintance, Guy Lautard.
[ 04-03-2002, 11:09 AM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]
Dave Fleming
04-02-2002, 02:40 PM
Don't know the fellow but know of him from a mutual acquaintance, Guy Lautard.
[ 04-03-2002, 11:09 AM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]
Dave Fleming
04-02-2002, 02:40 PM
Don't know the fellow but know of him from a mutual acquaintance, Guy Lautard.
[ 04-03-2002, 11:09 AM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]
Tom Dugan
04-02-2002, 02:57 PM
Him of the Machinist's Bedside Companion? I haven't gotten involved in machining (yet), so I'm not sure that's the right title. At this point in my life I've got way too many interests and way too little time, so I have to choose my hobbies carefully. Maybe someday, though. I am trying to assemble materials for a basic blacksmithy, and eventually bronzecasting, but it's still a couple of years down the road.
-T
Tom Dugan
04-02-2002, 02:57 PM
Him of the Machinist's Bedside Companion? I haven't gotten involved in machining (yet), so I'm not sure that's the right title. At this point in my life I've got way too many interests and way too little time, so I have to choose my hobbies carefully. Maybe someday, though. I am trying to assemble materials for a basic blacksmithy, and eventually bronzecasting, but it's still a couple of years down the road.
-T
Tom Dugan
04-02-2002, 02:57 PM
Him of the Machinist's Bedside Companion? I haven't gotten involved in machining (yet), so I'm not sure that's the right title. At this point in my life I've got way too many interests and way too little time, so I have to choose my hobbies carefully. Maybe someday, though. I am trying to assemble materials for a basic blacksmithy, and eventually bronzecasting, but it's still a couple of years down the road.
-T
Dave Fleming
04-02-2002, 03:41 PM
Ayup, that be he. Good sort too!
Dave Fleming
04-02-2002, 03:41 PM
Ayup, that be he. Good sort too!
Dave Fleming
04-02-2002, 03:41 PM
Ayup, that be he. Good sort too!
LaMess
04-03-2002, 06:27 AM
Tom - Have you seen these whackoes regarding bronze foundry? If not check out the Gingery books.
LaMess
04-03-2002, 06:27 AM
Tom - Have you seen these whackoes regarding bronze foundry? If not check out the Gingery books.
LaMess
04-03-2002, 06:27 AM
Tom - Have you seen these whackoes regarding bronze foundry? If not check out the Gingery books.
Tom Dugan
04-03-2002, 08:31 AM
Drift On, Big Thread!
Which "these whackos" are you referring to? I thought most of the Gingery stuff was about casting aluminum? (Ie, I haven't gotten their books...yet. Something to do Real Soon Now.)
I've only done enough bronze casting (through classes at the Alexandria Seaport Fdntn) to whet my appetite, but it sure has an appeal. I'm always thinking that there's a piece of hardware or a tool I could cast to perfectly fill the need of the moment. By fits and starts I'm collecting the parts for a really good propane burner (see http://www.reil1.net/Forge1.shtml ). Maybe this summer I'll find some time.
-T
Tom Dugan
04-03-2002, 08:31 AM
Drift On, Big Thread!
Which "these whackos" are you referring to? I thought most of the Gingery stuff was about casting aluminum? (Ie, I haven't gotten their books...yet. Something to do Real Soon Now.)
I've only done enough bronze casting (through classes at the Alexandria Seaport Fdntn) to whet my appetite, but it sure has an appeal. I'm always thinking that there's a piece of hardware or a tool I could cast to perfectly fill the need of the moment. By fits and starts I'm collecting the parts for a really good propane burner (see http://www.reil1.net/Forge1.shtml ). Maybe this summer I'll find some time.
-T
Tom Dugan
04-03-2002, 08:31 AM
Drift On, Big Thread!
Which "these whackos" are you referring to? I thought most of the Gingery stuff was about casting aluminum? (Ie, I haven't gotten their books...yet. Something to do Real Soon Now.)
I've only done enough bronze casting (through classes at the Alexandria Seaport Fdntn) to whet my appetite, but it sure has an appeal. I'm always thinking that there's a piece of hardware or a tool I could cast to perfectly fill the need of the moment. By fits and starts I'm collecting the parts for a really good propane burner (see http://www.reil1.net/Forge1.shtml ). Maybe this summer I'll find some time.
-T
LaMess
04-03-2002, 03:59 PM
Hey who ate the URL?!
Lindsay books (http://www.lindsaybks.com)
Gingery casts aluminum and pot metal for most of his stuff but the electric propane and foundries can melt bronze. For the electric one you just need a different element.
[ 04-03-2002, 05:00 PM: Message edited by: LAMESS ]
LaMess
04-03-2002, 03:59 PM
Hey who ate the URL?!
Lindsay books (http://www.lindsaybks.com)
Gingery casts aluminum and pot metal for most of his stuff but the electric propane and foundries can melt bronze. For the electric one you just need a different element.
[ 04-03-2002, 05:00 PM: Message edited by: LAMESS ]
LaMess
04-03-2002, 03:59 PM
Hey who ate the URL?!
Lindsay books (http://www.lindsaybks.com)
Gingery casts aluminum and pot metal for most of his stuff but the electric propane and foundries can melt bronze. For the electric one you just need a different element.
[ 04-03-2002, 05:00 PM: Message edited by: LAMESS ]
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