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Popeye
09-02-2003, 09:27 AM
.deep cut hole saw. I have seen instuctions on how to make a deep hole saw by welding a shaft onto conduit.

short of that, does anyone know where to get one off the shelf? say 5/8 to 7/8 by about 6 to 8" deep.

purpose is to 'chase' cut a hole down sides of a keel bolt.

Popeye
09-02-2003, 09:27 AM
.deep cut hole saw. I have seen instuctions on how to make a deep hole saw by welding a shaft onto conduit.

short of that, does anyone know where to get one off the shelf? say 5/8 to 7/8 by about 6 to 8" deep.

purpose is to 'chase' cut a hole down sides of a keel bolt.

Popeye
09-02-2003, 09:27 AM
.deep cut hole saw. I have seen instuctions on how to make a deep hole saw by welding a shaft onto conduit.

short of that, does anyone know where to get one off the shelf? say 5/8 to 7/8 by about 6 to 8" deep.

purpose is to 'chase' cut a hole down sides of a keel bolt.

Dale Genther
09-02-2003, 12:08 PM
Donn - What section of the McMaster Carr Catalog has these in it? I just looked in my catalog and can only find hole saws with a cutting depth of up to 1 3/4 in.

Dale Genther
09-02-2003, 12:08 PM
Donn - What section of the McMaster Carr Catalog has these in it? I just looked in my catalog and can only find hole saws with a cutting depth of up to 1 3/4 in.

Dale Genther
09-02-2003, 12:08 PM
Donn - What section of the McMaster Carr Catalog has these in it? I just looked in my catalog and can only find hole saws with a cutting depth of up to 1 3/4 in.

Popeye
09-02-2003, 12:25 PM
nope, that aint it. i mean a hole saw, as in used to cut a hole in a door for a knob. that bit with much added depth of cut. imagine a 6" piece of pipe with teeth cut at one end and a shaft on ta-other.

Popeye
09-02-2003, 12:25 PM
nope, that aint it. i mean a hole saw, as in used to cut a hole in a door for a knob. that bit with much added depth of cut. imagine a 6" piece of pipe with teeth cut at one end and a shaft on ta-other.

Popeye
09-02-2003, 12:25 PM
nope, that aint it. i mean a hole saw, as in used to cut a hole in a door for a knob. that bit with much added depth of cut. imagine a 6" piece of pipe with teeth cut at one end and a shaft on ta-other.

Dale Genther
09-02-2003, 12:30 PM
Donn - I think what Popeye (and I) are looking for is sort of an extra long hole saw. The inside diameter of the hole saw blade need to be just slightly larger than than the diameter of the bolt being removed. The depth on the hole saw blade needs to be as deep as the bolt is long. The old bolt with some surrounding wood is cut out like core samples are taken of the ground. I have not been able to find such a thing commercially made, so I've resolved myself to making one.

Dale Genther
09-02-2003, 12:30 PM
Donn - I think what Popeye (and I) are looking for is sort of an extra long hole saw. The inside diameter of the hole saw blade need to be just slightly larger than than the diameter of the bolt being removed. The depth on the hole saw blade needs to be as deep as the bolt is long. The old bolt with some surrounding wood is cut out like core samples are taken of the ground. I have not been able to find such a thing commercially made, so I've resolved myself to making one.

Dale Genther
09-02-2003, 12:30 PM
Donn - I think what Popeye (and I) are looking for is sort of an extra long hole saw. The inside diameter of the hole saw blade need to be just slightly larger than than the diameter of the bolt being removed. The depth on the hole saw blade needs to be as deep as the bolt is long. The old bolt with some surrounding wood is cut out like core samples are taken of the ground. I have not been able to find such a thing commercially made, so I've resolved myself to making one.

Popeye
09-02-2003, 12:35 PM
.. what dale said :>

Popeye
09-02-2003, 12:35 PM
.. what dale said :>

Popeye
09-02-2003, 12:35 PM
.. what dale said :>

Popeye
09-02-2003, 01:12 PM
boring!

Popeye
09-02-2003, 01:12 PM
boring!

Popeye
09-02-2003, 01:12 PM
boring!

Dave Fleming
09-02-2003, 02:25 PM
Our own Ed Harrow, he of Our Lady of the Phoenix, had a similar device made for some of his keel bolts might contact him for further info.

No way to use a hydraulic pump/jack to lift them out or a 'Portagee Pump' either?

Dave Fleming
09-02-2003, 02:25 PM
Our own Ed Harrow, he of Our Lady of the Phoenix, had a similar device made for some of his keel bolts might contact him for further info.

No way to use a hydraulic pump/jack to lift them out or a 'Portagee Pump' either?

Dave Fleming
09-02-2003, 02:25 PM
Our own Ed Harrow, he of Our Lady of the Phoenix, had a similar device made for some of his keel bolts might contact him for further info.

No way to use a hydraulic pump/jack to lift them out or a 'Portagee Pump' either?

Gary E
09-02-2003, 06:35 PM
This site will show you what I think you need...

http://hougen.com/

Perhaps you could find a local machine shop that has one, but it sounds like you need quite a deep hole.

For your use in wood, I think a skilled welder couuld coil enuf band saw blade and tack weld it so that it's ID is a little smaller than a steel tube, and it's OD is a a little larger than said tube. this is then welded to the end of the tube so it will not drag as you bore deeper into the wood.

G

Gary E
09-02-2003, 06:35 PM
This site will show you what I think you need...

http://hougen.com/

Perhaps you could find a local machine shop that has one, but it sounds like you need quite a deep hole.

For your use in wood, I think a skilled welder couuld coil enuf band saw blade and tack weld it so that it's ID is a little smaller than a steel tube, and it's OD is a a little larger than said tube. this is then welded to the end of the tube so it will not drag as you bore deeper into the wood.

G

Gary E
09-02-2003, 06:35 PM
This site will show you what I think you need...

http://hougen.com/

Perhaps you could find a local machine shop that has one, but it sounds like you need quite a deep hole.

For your use in wood, I think a skilled welder couuld coil enuf band saw blade and tack weld it so that it's ID is a little smaller than a steel tube, and it's OD is a a little larger than said tube. this is then welded to the end of the tube so it will not drag as you bore deeper into the wood.

G

Ed Harrow
09-02-2003, 10:15 PM
Just give a little click here:

http://home.fiam.net/eeharrow/ballast.htm

Whatcha doing?

Ed Harrow
09-02-2003, 10:15 PM
Just give a little click here:

http://home.fiam.net/eeharrow/ballast.htm

Whatcha doing?

Ed Harrow
09-02-2003, 10:15 PM
Just give a little click here:

http://home.fiam.net/eeharrow/ballast.htm

Whatcha doing?

Popeye
09-03-2003, 07:50 AM
THAT'S IT!

guys (Ed et al), ya nailed it. Am trying to avoid burning another favor. Could invest in a tig welder, but for a one off, a bit pricey. also got a few skilled machinist guys handy who would make a tube bit, but there goes my last, '.. tanks buddy, i owe ya one.."

i got a rust expanded (cast iron) keel bolt twds the stern that nut rusted off the top. only a domed kinda stud sticks up. pounding down will no doubt shatter bolt. lifting up is not workable. thought to cut out wood around and persuade out gently. replace with oversize bolt and/or epoxy to fill.

trying to do this without much ta-dum.

Popeye
09-03-2003, 07:50 AM
THAT'S IT!

guys (Ed et al), ya nailed it. Am trying to avoid burning another favor. Could invest in a tig welder, but for a one off, a bit pricey. also got a few skilled machinist guys handy who would make a tube bit, but there goes my last, '.. tanks buddy, i owe ya one.."

i got a rust expanded (cast iron) keel bolt twds the stern that nut rusted off the top. only a domed kinda stud sticks up. pounding down will no doubt shatter bolt. lifting up is not workable. thought to cut out wood around and persuade out gently. replace with oversize bolt and/or epoxy to fill.

trying to do this without much ta-dum.

Popeye
09-03-2003, 07:50 AM
THAT'S IT!

guys (Ed et al), ya nailed it. Am trying to avoid burning another favor. Could invest in a tig welder, but for a one off, a bit pricey. also got a few skilled machinist guys handy who would make a tube bit, but there goes my last, '.. tanks buddy, i owe ya one.."

i got a rust expanded (cast iron) keel bolt twds the stern that nut rusted off the top. only a domed kinda stud sticks up. pounding down will no doubt shatter bolt. lifting up is not workable. thought to cut out wood around and persuade out gently. replace with oversize bolt and/or epoxy to fill.

trying to do this without much ta-dum.

Mrleft8
09-03-2003, 07:54 AM
JEEZUS ED! What is that place? The "costa nostra machine shop"? Looks like you were about to sleep with the fishes, the way that one guy was acting about your takin' pictures in there!

Mrleft8
09-03-2003, 07:54 AM
JEEZUS ED! What is that place? The "costa nostra machine shop"? Looks like you were about to sleep with the fishes, the way that one guy was acting about your takin' pictures in there!

Mrleft8
09-03-2003, 07:54 AM
JEEZUS ED! What is that place? The "costa nostra machine shop"? Looks like you were about to sleep with the fishes, the way that one guy was acting about your takin' pictures in there!

Ed Harrow
09-04-2003, 07:20 AM
Originally posted by Mrleft8:
JEEZUS ED! What is that place? The "costa nostra machine shop"? Looks like you were about to sleep with the fishes, the way that one guy was acting about your takin' pictures in there!Sorry, The Committee has stated that I may not disclose the name of the organization, or the members of same who were involved, beyond what is on the website at this time...

Popeye - How is the bolt secured to the ballast (all the way thru, or ending within a pocket in the ballast)? How do you plan to free the bolt from the ballast? What is the status of the other bolts?

A thought - in my case I was merely interested in getting "around" the existing bolts (new) and core out the 5200 holding them in place. In your case, I think, the holesaw OD should be no larger than the bolt's original OD. This, of course, assumes that the wood is still in good shape.

To free the bolt from the ballast, perhaps an arc welder clamped on to both ends of the existing bolt? Crank up the power until the bolt heats up sufficiently to burn off some of the oxidation. Keep some water or marshmellows handy.

Ed Harrow
09-04-2003, 07:20 AM
Originally posted by Mrleft8:
JEEZUS ED! What is that place? The "costa nostra machine shop"? Looks like you were about to sleep with the fishes, the way that one guy was acting about your takin' pictures in there!Sorry, The Committee has stated that I may not disclose the name of the organization, or the members of same who were involved, beyond what is on the website at this time...

Popeye - How is the bolt secured to the ballast (all the way thru, or ending within a pocket in the ballast)? How do you plan to free the bolt from the ballast? What is the status of the other bolts?

A thought - in my case I was merely interested in getting "around" the existing bolts (new) and core out the 5200 holding them in place. In your case, I think, the holesaw OD should be no larger than the bolt's original OD. This, of course, assumes that the wood is still in good shape.

To free the bolt from the ballast, perhaps an arc welder clamped on to both ends of the existing bolt? Crank up the power until the bolt heats up sufficiently to burn off some of the oxidation. Keep some water or marshmellows handy.

Ed Harrow
09-04-2003, 07:20 AM
Originally posted by Mrleft8:
JEEZUS ED! What is that place? The "costa nostra machine shop"? Looks like you were about to sleep with the fishes, the way that one guy was acting about your takin' pictures in there!Sorry, The Committee has stated that I may not disclose the name of the organization, or the members of same who were involved, beyond what is on the website at this time...

Popeye - How is the bolt secured to the ballast (all the way thru, or ending within a pocket in the ballast)? How do you plan to free the bolt from the ballast? What is the status of the other bolts?

A thought - in my case I was merely interested in getting "around" the existing bolts (new) and core out the 5200 holding them in place. In your case, I think, the holesaw OD should be no larger than the bolt's original OD. This, of course, assumes that the wood is still in good shape.

To free the bolt from the ballast, perhaps an arc welder clamped on to both ends of the existing bolt? Crank up the power until the bolt heats up sufficiently to burn off some of the oxidation. Keep some water or marshmellows handy.

Popeye
09-04-2003, 07:40 AM
keel bolts and nuts fwd are reasonable so far as i can tell. one was easily removed and replaced, having some life left.

one bolt aft, nearly under engine at deepest part of bilge (bilge pump is fwd of bolt) looks marginal. bolt goes all the way thru iron ballast. these are 'real' cast iron keel bolts, no threaded rod or the like. wood is good. i got both (one anyway) garboard planks off so accesibilty is good. i like the arc welder idea, never thought of that one. that and a tube bit and my BFH persuader and i'm on my way, and one way or the other the bolt will be replaced without too much cuss'n.

Popeye
09-04-2003, 07:40 AM
keel bolts and nuts fwd are reasonable so far as i can tell. one was easily removed and replaced, having some life left.

one bolt aft, nearly under engine at deepest part of bilge (bilge pump is fwd of bolt) looks marginal. bolt goes all the way thru iron ballast. these are 'real' cast iron keel bolts, no threaded rod or the like. wood is good. i got both (one anyway) garboard planks off so accesibilty is good. i like the arc welder idea, never thought of that one. that and a tube bit and my BFH persuader and i'm on my way, and one way or the other the bolt will be replaced without too much cuss'n.

Popeye
09-04-2003, 07:40 AM
keel bolts and nuts fwd are reasonable so far as i can tell. one was easily removed and replaced, having some life left.

one bolt aft, nearly under engine at deepest part of bilge (bilge pump is fwd of bolt) looks marginal. bolt goes all the way thru iron ballast. these are 'real' cast iron keel bolts, no threaded rod or the like. wood is good. i got both (one anyway) garboard planks off so accesibilty is good. i like the arc welder idea, never thought of that one. that and a tube bit and my BFH persuader and i'm on my way, and one way or the other the bolt will be replaced without too much cuss'n.