Cabin Heaters......opinions sought......

[NBH]

We have an old Hi seas diesel cabin heater aboard Shikari, must be 25 yrs young at least. After much disassembly and cleaning, as well as some cursing, we have decided that we've gotta replace it or........, keep reading.....

We want to stick with Diesel as we we've got plenty aboard and the BTU output/unit of fuel is a real plus. AS you can see from the picture the installation is pretty tight. The current heater is located in the walkway between main cabin and forward cabin, thats the door to the head just forward. We don't want to put another hole in the deck so we want to put the new one in the same place.

As I see it we have two options;

1. Take the burner box (very rusted) to a very good metal fabrication shop we've used before and have them replicate it. The upper part of the stove is OK needs some more wire brushing and cleaning, fuel flow is a very simple needle valve and drip control (the main reason I love this heater, it's simple!) Current installation uses a gravity feed tank located in a locker in the head.

2. Buy a new Force 10 Cozy Cabin Heater-Diesel version.

Question is this, does anyone have one of these Force 10 heaters (diesel version) and if so are you satisfied with it's performance? Is the pre-heat procedure (understand you have to use alchohol) pretty straight forward?

Some caveats----

* The installation must go where the existing heater is, the depth of the unit can't exceed 7" because of clearance...

* The admiral has a big say in this, she likes being warm!

* If we install a new heater we'll switch to a feed off the main fuel tank with a pump....most likely...

* I've also looked at Taylors, and Sigmmarine.

* I've posted this question on other BB's and not received one positive bit of feedback on Force 10!
I've used the propane version on other boats but have not liked the exposed flame nor the fact that it goes out frequently. I suppose thats why they engineered the "auto shut off" feature.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

http://home.earthlink.net/~nbhowe/images/heater.JPG

[NBH]

We have an old Hi seas diesel cabin heater aboard Shikari, must be 25 yrs young at least. After much disassembly and cleaning, as well as some cursing, we have decided that we've gotta replace it or........, keep reading.....

We want to stick with Diesel as we we've got plenty aboard and the BTU output/unit of fuel is a real plus. AS you can see from the picture the installation is pretty tight. The current heater is located in the walkway between main cabin and forward cabin, thats the door to the head just forward. We don't want to put another hole in the deck so we want to put the new one in the same place.

As I see it we have two options;

1. Take the burner box (very rusted) to a very good metal fabrication shop we've used before and have them replicate it. The upper part of the stove is OK needs some more wire brushing and cleaning, fuel flow is a very simple needle valve and drip control (the main reason I love this heater, it's simple!) Current installation uses a gravity feed tank located in a locker in the head.

2. Buy a new Force 10 Cozy Cabin Heater-Diesel version.

Question is this, does anyone have one of these Force 10 heaters (diesel version) and if so are you satisfied with it's performance? Is the pre-heat procedure (understand you have to use alchohol) pretty straight forward?

Some caveats----

* The installation must go where the existing heater is, the depth of the unit can't exceed 7" because of clearance...

* The admiral has a big say in this, she likes being warm!

* If we install a new heater we'll switch to a feed off the main fuel tank with a pump....most likely...

* I've also looked at Taylors, and Sigmmarine.

* I've posted this question on other BB's and not received one positive bit of feedback on Force 10!
I've used the propane version on other boats but have not liked the exposed flame nor the fact that it goes out frequently. I suppose thats why they engineered the "auto shut off" feature.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

http://home.earthlink.net/~nbhowe/images/heater.JPG

[NBH]

We have an old Hi seas diesel cabin heater aboard Shikari, must be 25 yrs young at least. After much disassembly and cleaning, as well as some cursing, we have decided that we've gotta replace it or........, keep reading.....

We want to stick with Diesel as we we've got plenty aboard and the BTU output/unit of fuel is a real plus. AS you can see from the picture the installation is pretty tight. The current heater is located in the walkway between main cabin and forward cabin, thats the door to the head just forward. We don't want to put another hole in the deck so we want to put the new one in the same place.

As I see it we have two options;

1. Take the burner box (very rusted) to a very good metal fabrication shop we've used before and have them replicate it. The upper part of the stove is OK needs some more wire brushing and cleaning, fuel flow is a very simple needle valve and drip control (the main reason I love this heater, it's simple!) Current installation uses a gravity feed tank located in a locker in the head.

2. Buy a new Force 10 Cozy Cabin Heater-Diesel version.

Question is this, does anyone have one of these Force 10 heaters (diesel version) and if so are you satisfied with it's performance? Is the pre-heat procedure (understand you have to use alchohol) pretty straight forward?

Some caveats----

* The installation must go where the existing heater is, the depth of the unit can't exceed 7" because of clearance...

* The admiral has a big say in this, she likes being warm!

* If we install a new heater we'll switch to a feed off the main fuel tank with a pump....most likely...

* I've also looked at Taylors, and Sigmmarine.

* I've posted this question on other BB's and not received one positive bit of feedback on Force 10!
I've used the propane version on other boats but have not liked the exposed flame nor the fact that it goes out frequently. I suppose thats why they engineered the "auto shut off" feature.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

http://home.earthlink.net/~nbhowe/images/heater.JPG

[mariner2k]

Hello, I use a Dickenson wall mounted unit...Gravity fed diesel. I've had it for about six years and have no complaints other than the occasional cleaning. It will burn kerosene much cleaner if I chose to use it.
mariner

[ 06-07-2002, 10:20 PM: Message edited by: mariner2k ]

[mariner2k]

Hello, I use a Dickenson wall mounted unit...Gravity fed diesel. I've had it for about six years and have no complaints other than the occasional cleaning. It will burn kerosene much cleaner if I chose to use it.
mariner

[ 06-07-2002, 10:20 PM: Message edited by: mariner2k ]

[mariner2k]

Hello, I use a Dickenson wall mounted unit...Gravity fed diesel. I've had it for about six years and have no complaints other than the occasional cleaning. It will burn kerosene much cleaner if I chose to use it.
mariner

[ 06-07-2002, 10:20 PM: Message edited by: mariner2k ]

[Ian McColgin]

I like my dicky as well.

I had a Force 5 galley stove on Goblin which I very much liked and plan to get one for Grana when I'm rebuilding anyway or sooner if the propane thing dies but I'm not sure I'd want the Force 5 for a heater. The burner is very finicky about dirty and/or high sulpher fuel. I was supplying the stove through the finest filtre available - way smaller than what I feed the engin - and it still clogged. Eventually the F5 guys said that we just can't get good enough diesel on the East Coast (this was in the 80's, no idea about now) and they helped me move it to kerosene which was more readibly obtainable in clean enough form.

Force 5 is great for applications where pretty easy lighting and quick heat-up are required and it's the only diesel cook stove worth a toot in temperate or warm weather, but I'm not so sure you can turn it on in October and shut it down in April.

By the way, when I was firing up Goblin's stove underway and didn't trust the cup to hold the fuel in (I just overflowed the kero, didn't bother with alcohol) - like if it was really kicking hard but I had to have hot coffee - I'd use a bit of that mautz fire ribbon stuff. Great to have around anyway but don't store it anywhere near the tooth paste, KY, etc.

[Ian McColgin]

I like my dicky as well.

I had a Force 5 galley stove on Goblin which I very much liked and plan to get one for Grana when I'm rebuilding anyway or sooner if the propane thing dies but I'm not sure I'd want the Force 5 for a heater. The burner is very finicky about dirty and/or high sulpher fuel. I was supplying the stove through the finest filtre available - way smaller than what I feed the engin - and it still clogged. Eventually the F5 guys said that we just can't get good enough diesel on the East Coast (this was in the 80's, no idea about now) and they helped me move it to kerosene which was more readibly obtainable in clean enough form.

Force 5 is great for applications where pretty easy lighting and quick heat-up are required and it's the only diesel cook stove worth a toot in temperate or warm weather, but I'm not so sure you can turn it on in October and shut it down in April.

By the way, when I was firing up Goblin's stove underway and didn't trust the cup to hold the fuel in (I just overflowed the kero, didn't bother with alcohol) - like if it was really kicking hard but I had to have hot coffee - I'd use a bit of that mautz fire ribbon stuff. Great to have around anyway but don't store it anywhere near the tooth paste, KY, etc.

[Ian McColgin]

I like my dicky as well.

I had a Force 5 galley stove on Goblin which I very much liked and plan to get one for Grana when I'm rebuilding anyway or sooner if the propane thing dies but I'm not sure I'd want the Force 5 for a heater. The burner is very finicky about dirty and/or high sulpher fuel. I was supplying the stove through the finest filtre available - way smaller than what I feed the engin - and it still clogged. Eventually the F5 guys said that we just can't get good enough diesel on the East Coast (this was in the 80's, no idea about now) and they helped me move it to kerosene which was more readibly obtainable in clean enough form.

Force 5 is great for applications where pretty easy lighting and quick heat-up are required and it's the only diesel cook stove worth a toot in temperate or warm weather, but I'm not so sure you can turn it on in October and shut it down in April.

By the way, when I was firing up Goblin's stove underway and didn't trust the cup to hold the fuel in (I just overflowed the kero, didn't bother with alcohol) - like if it was really kicking hard but I had to have hot coffee - I'd use a bit of that mautz fire ribbon stuff. Great to have around anyway but don't store it anywhere near the tooth paste, KY, etc.

[Adam C]

Does anyone have any experience with solid fuel heaters? I was considering one for my boat. They are cheaper and I thought perhaps more versatile.

Opinions?

[Adam C]

Does anyone have any experience with solid fuel heaters? I was considering one for my boat. They are cheaper and I thought perhaps more versatile.

Opinions?

[Adam C]

Does anyone have any experience with solid fuel heaters? I was considering one for my boat. They are cheaper and I thought perhaps more versatile.

Opinions?

[imported_Conrad]

Hi- I have the same heater, which was purchased used. After taking it apart it was obvious that the burner box could stand to be replaced. It seemed simple enough, so off I went to a sheet metal shop that has done some forming for my car restoration business. $25 got me a new burner out of slightly heavier steel that should last for another couple of decades. I love the simplicty of the thing and am toying around with putting a heat exchanger for hot water into it. The only thing we miss is the cute tile decoration that comes on some of the newer stoves?!

[imported_Conrad]

Hi- I have the same heater, which was purchased used. After taking it apart it was obvious that the burner box could stand to be replaced. It seemed simple enough, so off I went to a sheet metal shop that has done some forming for my car restoration business. $25 got me a new burner out of slightly heavier steel that should last for another couple of decades. I love the simplicty of the thing and am toying around with putting a heat exchanger for hot water into it. The only thing we miss is the cute tile decoration that comes on some of the newer stoves?!

[imported_Conrad]

Hi- I have the same heater, which was purchased used. After taking it apart it was obvious that the burner box could stand to be replaced. It seemed simple enough, so off I went to a sheet metal shop that has done some forming for my car restoration business. $25 got me a new burner out of slightly heavier steel that should last for another couple of decades. I love the simplicty of the thing and am toying around with putting a heat exchanger for hot water into it. The only thing we miss is the cute tile decoration that comes on some of the newer stoves?!

[Foster Price]

Hello

I've just about finished building a heater for my boat, all in stainless and its looking very good. For the time being its solid fueled ( I've tested it with wood, and it will also handle coal) but I really want to end up with diesel, however building a dickinson style pot burner seems a little tricky.

The Hi seas burner you guys decribed sounds simpler, could someone give me a more detailed description of the burner, and/or pictures/drawings

Many thanks

Foster Price

[Foster Price]

Hello

I've just about finished building a heater for my boat, all in stainless and its looking very good. For the time being its solid fueled ( I've tested it with wood, and it will also handle coal) but I really want to end up with diesel, however building a dickinson style pot burner seems a little tricky.

The Hi seas burner you guys decribed sounds simpler, could someone give me a more detailed description of the burner, and/or pictures/drawings

Many thanks

Foster Price

[Foster Price]

Hello

I've just about finished building a heater for my boat, all in stainless and its looking very good. For the time being its solid fueled ( I've tested it with wood, and it will also handle coal) but I really want to end up with diesel, however building a dickinson style pot burner seems a little tricky.

The Hi seas burner you guys decribed sounds simpler, could someone give me a more detailed description of the burner, and/or pictures/drawings

Many thanks

Foster Price

[imported_Conrad]

Foster- the burner is a fiberglass wick, about 3X4" suspended on edge from rod about 1/8" thick in a box that allows about 1" all around of air space. The sides of the box have a series of small holes (1/8") drilled in a line across the middle to allow air into the combustion area. Above the box is a series of baffles to slow the rising heat/flame by introducing turbulance. Fuel drips on the wick and burns- when properly adjusted no fuel ever makes it to the bottom of the box, although in my case the bottom is also lined with heavy wicking. To start it, one allows fuel to fill the vertical wick through saturation until some drips to the bottom where it can be lit with a match. As the main wick heats up, it becomes capable of absorbing and burning fuel at a higher rate. Almost nothing can break, plug or go wrong. Properly adjusted/balanced with a flue damper, it burns so clean you can't see smoke. If I had a scanner, I'd send you a diagram from the owner's manual; sorry.

[imported_Conrad]

Foster- the burner is a fiberglass wick, about 3X4" suspended on edge from rod about 1/8" thick in a box that allows about 1" all around of air space. The sides of the box have a series of small holes (1/8") drilled in a line across the middle to allow air into the combustion area. Above the box is a series of baffles to slow the rising heat/flame by introducing turbulance. Fuel drips on the wick and burns- when properly adjusted no fuel ever makes it to the bottom of the box, although in my case the bottom is also lined with heavy wicking. To start it, one allows fuel to fill the vertical wick through saturation until some drips to the bottom where it can be lit with a match. As the main wick heats up, it becomes capable of absorbing and burning fuel at a higher rate. Almost nothing can break, plug or go wrong. Properly adjusted/balanced with a flue damper, it burns so clean you can't see smoke. If I had a scanner, I'd send you a diagram from the owner's manual; sorry.

[imported_Conrad]

Foster- the burner is a fiberglass wick, about 3X4" suspended on edge from rod about 1/8" thick in a box that allows about 1" all around of air space. The sides of the box have a series of small holes (1/8") drilled in a line across the middle to allow air into the combustion area. Above the box is a series of baffles to slow the rising heat/flame by introducing turbulance. Fuel drips on the wick and burns- when properly adjusted no fuel ever makes it to the bottom of the box, although in my case the bottom is also lined with heavy wicking. To start it, one allows fuel to fill the vertical wick through saturation until some drips to the bottom where it can be lit with a match. As the main wick heats up, it becomes capable of absorbing and burning fuel at a higher rate. Almost nothing can break, plug or go wrong. Properly adjusted/balanced with a flue damper, it burns so clean you can't see smoke. If I had a scanner, I'd send you a diagram from the owner's manual; sorry.

[NBH]

Conrads,
Thanks for that encouraging post. My heater was neglected by the PO and among other things the wick is completey gone. I don't suppose you have a source for those do you? Can't imagine it would be difficult to make something similar.

I only have old typed instructions, that while helpful have no drawings.

I don't want to replace it as I love the simplicity, not to mention the fact that I'm cheap!

I do have a scanner and would happily scan and return to you....let me know.

Nat Howe
Jackson, NH

nbhowe@earthlink.net

[NBH]

Conrads,
Thanks for that encouraging post. My heater was neglected by the PO and among other things the wick is completey gone. I don't suppose you have a source for those do you? Can't imagine it would be difficult to make something similar.

I only have old typed instructions, that while helpful have no drawings.

I don't want to replace it as I love the simplicity, not to mention the fact that I'm cheap!

I do have a scanner and would happily scan and return to you....let me know.

Nat Howe
Jackson, NH

nbhowe@earthlink.net

[NBH]

Conrads,
Thanks for that encouraging post. My heater was neglected by the PO and among other things the wick is completey gone. I don't suppose you have a source for those do you? Can't imagine it would be difficult to make something similar.

I only have old typed instructions, that while helpful have no drawings.

I don't want to replace it as I love the simplicity, not to mention the fact that I'm cheap!

I do have a scanner and would happily scan and return to you....let me know.

Nat Howe
Jackson, NH

nbhowe@earthlink.net

[Ed Harrow]

Adam, now you are talking!

http://home.fiam.net/eeharrow/harrowhtm/2002/Gw.jpg

Heating, cooking, baking, warming, hot water, ballast, you name it, one of these will do it...

[Ed Harrow]

Adam, now you are talking!

http://home.fiam.net/eeharrow/harrowhtm/2002/Gw.jpg

Heating, cooking, baking, warming, hot water, ballast, you name it, one of these will do it...

[Ed Harrow]

Adam, now you are talking!

http://home.fiam.net/eeharrow/harrowhtm/2002/Gw.jpg

Heating, cooking, baking, warming, hot water, ballast, you name it, one of these will do it...

[Alan D. Hyde]

Wonderful stoves, Glenwoods! We had a six-plater like that once, Ed.

But I wouldn't want to be near it if it were on board in rough weather.

Or in a knockdown or pitchpole.

Alan

[Alan D. Hyde]

Wonderful stoves, Glenwoods! We had a six-plater like that once, Ed.

But I wouldn't want to be near it if it were on board in rough weather.

Or in a knockdown or pitchpole.

Alan

[Alan D. Hyde]

Wonderful stoves, Glenwoods! We had a six-plater like that once, Ed.

But I wouldn't want to be near it if it were on board in rough weather.

Or in a knockdown or pitchpole.

Alan

[Ian McColgin]

Before I got the Dickenson I had wood, charcoal and coal. All lovely.

I always wanted to experiment with marinizing the roundwick types like the toyostove/kerosun. Real problems here with safe fuel flow - even the rocking at the dock can make the thing flood fuel on the cabin sole ! - but the burn is gloriously clean.

Especially coal, however, requires lots of insulation/space between it and anything flamable, like the boat.

G'luck

[Ian McColgin]

Before I got the Dickenson I had wood, charcoal and coal. All lovely.

I always wanted to experiment with marinizing the roundwick types like the toyostove/kerosun. Real problems here with safe fuel flow - even the rocking at the dock can make the thing flood fuel on the cabin sole ! - but the burn is gloriously clean.

Especially coal, however, requires lots of insulation/space between it and anything flamable, like the boat.

G'luck

[Ian McColgin]

Before I got the Dickenson I had wood, charcoal and coal. All lovely.

I always wanted to experiment with marinizing the roundwick types like the toyostove/kerosun. Real problems here with safe fuel flow - even the rocking at the dock can make the thing flood fuel on the cabin sole ! - but the burn is gloriously clean.

Especially coal, however, requires lots of insulation/space between it and anything flamable, like the boat.

G'luck

[Ed Harrow]

Originally posted by Alan D. Hyde:
But I wouldn't want to be near it if it were on board in rough weather.

Or in a knockdown or pitchpole.
AlanOne word. Duct tape (OK, so it's two words, LOL)

[Ed Harrow]

Originally posted by Alan D. Hyde:
But I wouldn't want to be near it if it were on board in rough weather.

Or in a knockdown or pitchpole.
AlanOne word. Duct tape (OK, so it's two words, LOL)

[Ed Harrow]

Originally posted by Alan D. Hyde:
But I wouldn't want to be near it if it were on board in rough weather.

Or in a knockdown or pitchpole.
AlanOne word. Duct tape (OK, so it's two words, LOL)

[Adam C]

Ed,

I'll take two!

Seriously, do the solid fuel stoves produce a real bad odor? I've had some bad experiences with the fireplace at home...

Adam

[Adam C]

Ed,

I'll take two!

Seriously, do the solid fuel stoves produce a real bad odor? I've had some bad experiences with the fireplace at home...

Adam

[Adam C]

Ed,

I'll take two!

Seriously, do the solid fuel stoves produce a real bad odor? I've had some bad experiences with the fireplace at home...

Adam

[Donn]

Ian:

"I always wanted to experiment with marinizing the roundwick types like the toyostove/kerosun. Real problems here with safe fuel flow - even the rocking at the dock can make the thing flood fuel on the cabin sole ! - but the burn is gloriously clean."

Hang it from the ceiling.

[Donn]

Ian:

"I always wanted to experiment with marinizing the roundwick types like the toyostove/kerosun. Real problems here with safe fuel flow - even the rocking at the dock can make the thing flood fuel on the cabin sole ! - but the burn is gloriously clean."

Hang it from the ceiling.

[Donn]

Ian:

"I always wanted to experiment with marinizing the roundwick types like the toyostove/kerosun. Real problems here with safe fuel flow - even the rocking at the dock can make the thing flood fuel on the cabin sole ! - but the burn is gloriously clean."

Hang it from the ceiling.

[Wilson Fitt]

We had a Tiny Tot on our old H-28 and burned charcoal briquettes. Could get the thing red hot, and miraculously didn't either set the boat on fire or poison ourselves with carbon monoxide.

Then we installed a beautiful little two plate "Gift" stove made by Lunenburg Foundry and burned hardwood chunks. Feeding wood into a stove is one of the most satisfying of passtimes, especially when accompanied by a glass of scotch and light of a kerosene lamp. However, more than once, motoring along in a calm with the crew below cozy and warm, the helmsman cried out for mercy from the smoke of the stack as it streamed aft.

Now, in our more sophisticated boat, we have a Dickenson Alaska, gravity fed from the main fuel tanks. It is great, runs forever on a teaspoonful of diesel and we can romance by the light of a flickering flame. However, occasionally in strong gusty conditions, the dodger over the main companionway seems to act as a big extractor vent creating a low pressure system in the cabin and the stove backs up with unpleasant consequences. Havn't figured that one out yet.

[Wilson Fitt]

We had a Tiny Tot on our old H-28 and burned charcoal briquettes. Could get the thing red hot, and miraculously didn't either set the boat on fire or poison ourselves with carbon monoxide.

Then we installed a beautiful little two plate "Gift" stove made by Lunenburg Foundry and burned hardwood chunks. Feeding wood into a stove is one of the most satisfying of passtimes, especially when accompanied by a glass of scotch and light of a kerosene lamp. However, more than once, motoring along in a calm with the crew below cozy and warm, the helmsman cried out for mercy from the smoke of the stack as it streamed aft.

Now, in our more sophisticated boat, we have a Dickenson Alaska, gravity fed from the main fuel tanks. It is great, runs forever on a teaspoonful of diesel and we can romance by the light of a flickering flame. However, occasionally in strong gusty conditions, the dodger over the main companionway seems to act as a big extractor vent creating a low pressure system in the cabin and the stove backs up with unpleasant consequences. Havn't figured that one out yet.

[Wilson Fitt]

We had a Tiny Tot on our old H-28 and burned charcoal briquettes. Could get the thing red hot, and miraculously didn't either set the boat on fire or poison ourselves with carbon monoxide.

Then we installed a beautiful little two plate "Gift" stove made by Lunenburg Foundry and burned hardwood chunks. Feeding wood into a stove is one of the most satisfying of passtimes, especially when accompanied by a glass of scotch and light of a kerosene lamp. However, more than once, motoring along in a calm with the crew below cozy and warm, the helmsman cried out for mercy from the smoke of the stack as it streamed aft.

Now, in our more sophisticated boat, we have a Dickenson Alaska, gravity fed from the main fuel tanks. It is great, runs forever on a teaspoonful of diesel and we can romance by the light of a flickering flame. However, occasionally in strong gusty conditions, the dodger over the main companionway seems to act as a big extractor vent creating a low pressure system in the cabin and the stove backs up with unpleasant consequences. Havn't figured that one out yet.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

I have an elderly Shyipmate Skippy wood / coal stove and on an adjacent thread I canvassed opinions about a replacement and found one which I will be fitting.

I like solid fuel.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

I have an elderly Shyipmate Skippy wood / coal stove and on an adjacent thread I canvassed opinions about a replacement and found one which I will be fitting.

I like solid fuel.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

I have an elderly Shyipmate Skippy wood / coal stove and on an adjacent thread I canvassed opinions about a replacement and found one which I will be fitting.

I like solid fuel.

[Dave Hadfield]

I made a small wood stove for Drake on the pattern of other small tin stoves I make for winter camping use. It's portable. I mount it as required and leave it stowed away the rest of the time. It's heat-shield base fits into a slot in my centerboard trunk top. The stove pipe goes through the skylight. It burns wood and generates far more heat than one of those electric cube-shaped ceramic heaters. It's made from 24 gauge sheet metal and put together with steel pop rivets. It sounds rickety but isn't -- stoves like this were traditional for trappers up north and can last for many years (less if you burn salty driftwood, I suppose). Nothing's cheaper and they can be made in a home shop. Making a wood stove is not magic -- mostly commonsense.

I went this route because I only use it in the fall, and space in my cabin is limited. It works fine. I have a picture of it on an old forum thread somewhere.

I have some unfortunately poor pictures of stoves like this on my website http://www.hadfield.ca/Practical_Bush_Gear/wood_stove/wood_stove.html
I don't make them for sale. The one on Drake is smaller than these and looks rather better.

I think for a permanent stove on a boat I would rent/borrow a mig welder and just make one out of light plate. It's not that difficult, and this way you can make it fit your boat and your favourite kettle.

Take care with the mounting and heat shielding. Therein lies the risk.

Wood smoke smells better than diesel smoke!

[ 06-08-2002, 12:33 PM: Message edited by: Dave Hadfield ]

[Dave Hadfield]

I made a small wood stove for Drake on the pattern of other small tin stoves I make for winter camping use. It's portable. I mount it as required and leave it stowed away the rest of the time. It's heat-shield base fits into a slot in my centerboard trunk top. The stove pipe goes through the skylight. It burns wood and generates far more heat than one of those electric cube-shaped ceramic heaters. It's made from 24 gauge sheet metal and put together with steel pop rivets. It sounds rickety but isn't -- stoves like this were traditional for trappers up north and can last for many years (less if you burn salty driftwood, I suppose). Nothing's cheaper and they can be made in a home shop. Making a wood stove is not magic -- mostly commonsense.

I went this route because I only use it in the fall, and space in my cabin is limited. It works fine. I have a picture of it on an old forum thread somewhere.

I have some unfortunately poor pictures of stoves like this on my website http://www.hadfield.ca/Practical_Bush_Gear/wood_stove/wood_stove.html
I don't make them for sale. The one on Drake is smaller than these and looks rather better.

I think for a permanent stove on a boat I would rent/borrow a mig welder and just make one out of light plate. It's not that difficult, and this way you can make it fit your boat and your favourite kettle.

Take care with the mounting and heat shielding. Therein lies the risk.

Wood smoke smells better than diesel smoke!

[ 06-08-2002, 12:33 PM: Message edited by: Dave Hadfield ]

[Dave Hadfield]

I made a small wood stove for Drake on the pattern of other small tin stoves I make for winter camping use. It's portable. I mount it as required and leave it stowed away the rest of the time. It's heat-shield base fits into a slot in my centerboard trunk top. The stove pipe goes through the skylight. It burns wood and generates far more heat than one of those electric cube-shaped ceramic heaters. It's made from 24 gauge sheet metal and put together with steel pop rivets. It sounds rickety but isn't -- stoves like this were traditional for trappers up north and can last for many years (less if you burn salty driftwood, I suppose). Nothing's cheaper and they can be made in a home shop. Making a wood stove is not magic -- mostly commonsense.

I went this route because I only use it in the fall, and space in my cabin is limited. It works fine. I have a picture of it on an old forum thread somewhere.

I have some unfortunately poor pictures of stoves like this on my website http://www.hadfield.ca/Practical_Bush_Gear/wood_stove/wood_stove.html
I don't make them for sale. The one on Drake is smaller than these and looks rather better.

I think for a permanent stove on a boat I would rent/borrow a mig welder and just make one out of light plate. It's not that difficult, and this way you can make it fit your boat and your favourite kettle.

Take care with the mounting and heat shielding. Therein lies the risk.

Wood smoke smells better than diesel smoke!

[ 06-08-2002, 12:33 PM: Message edited by: Dave Hadfield ]

[paladin]

if'n ya don't wanna see it get an ESPAR.....
Otherwise it's a Dickenson....I have and use both, depends on whether sweet thing is there or on the way........There's no substitute for these two devices.....

[paladin]

if'n ya don't wanna see it get an ESPAR.....
Otherwise it's a Dickenson....I have and use both, depends on whether sweet thing is there or on the way........There's no substitute for these two devices.....

[paladin]

if'n ya don't wanna see it get an ESPAR.....
Otherwise it's a Dickenson....I have and use both, depends on whether sweet thing is there or on the way........There's no substitute for these two devices.....

[Ian McColgin]

Don. Tried that. Cleaned up the mess. It didn't work.
A friend came up with a system that works for the units that have a fixed resevoir under the burner - they stuffed bronze wool in to reduce the slosh and they never filled it past a key marked place to ensure no slosh as the the boat moved.

In general, most of us shut down heaters while underway except in quite benign conditions. I did 'stress test' the dickenson one day sailing in about 30 kt all points but with reduced sail to keep the heel under 30 degrees. It was fine for that, though at times burned a little dirty. Sooted up the inside more than 2 weeks normal burn.

Wilson - try adding a bit to the outside stack. When you're moored it hardly matters if the boom will clear it anyway. If you don't have it already, this is the key time to add a barometric damper as the extra stack will increase the draft a whole lot.

G'luck

[Ian McColgin]

Don. Tried that. Cleaned up the mess. It didn't work.
A friend came up with a system that works for the units that have a fixed resevoir under the burner - they stuffed bronze wool in to reduce the slosh and they never filled it past a key marked place to ensure no slosh as the the boat moved.

In general, most of us shut down heaters while underway except in quite benign conditions. I did 'stress test' the dickenson one day sailing in about 30 kt all points but with reduced sail to keep the heel under 30 degrees. It was fine for that, though at times burned a little dirty. Sooted up the inside more than 2 weeks normal burn.

Wilson - try adding a bit to the outside stack. When you're moored it hardly matters if the boom will clear it anyway. If you don't have it already, this is the key time to add a barometric damper as the extra stack will increase the draft a whole lot.

G'luck

[Ian McColgin]

Don. Tried that. Cleaned up the mess. It didn't work.
A friend came up with a system that works for the units that have a fixed resevoir under the burner - they stuffed bronze wool in to reduce the slosh and they never filled it past a key marked place to ensure no slosh as the the boat moved.

In general, most of us shut down heaters while underway except in quite benign conditions. I did 'stress test' the dickenson one day sailing in about 30 kt all points but with reduced sail to keep the heel under 30 degrees. It was fine for that, though at times burned a little dirty. Sooted up the inside more than 2 weeks normal burn.

Wilson - try adding a bit to the outside stack. When you're moored it hardly matters if the boom will clear it anyway. If you don't have it already, this is the key time to add a barometric damper as the extra stack will increase the draft a whole lot.

G'luck

[Foster Price]

Hello Conrad

This is great, sounds like it could be well within my capabilities to build, but a few more questions to complete the word picture.

I assume the wick is one sheet of material, i.e. not a circular wick like Ian was talking about in relation to the kerosun etc.?

Is the fuel dripped onto the wick at the top or bottom, and in one place i.e. one drip, or several across the wick? (cripes - what a drippy question!!)

Can you tell me a bit more about the size, arrangement and orientation of the baffles above the burner box?

Is there anything like a float valve to ensure it can’t flood (mostly called a “toby regulator” round here, used on the Dickinsons etc to ensure the burner doesn’t get to full – I suspect its not required with the wick type burner). Is this situation addressed in any other way e.g. orientation and level of the tank?

Just to queer the pitch completely I saw a very interesting idea while scanning through a pile of old “Classic Boat” magazines today. Everyone knows about the clay flower pot on top of a stove burner, but these guys had gone one step further. The flower pot had an flexible, fireproof aluminium “ducting” as a “flue” leadind off it, which was lead to a ventilator. The flowerpot had to be the type with holes in the bottom. They reckoned they hadn’t poisoned themselves with carbon monoxide but . . . .

This idea could have a lot of appeal, providing someone else has conclusively proved it wont kill you!!

Cheers - Foster

[Foster Price]

Hello Conrad

This is great, sounds like it could be well within my capabilities to build, but a few more questions to complete the word picture.

I assume the wick is one sheet of material, i.e. not a circular wick like Ian was talking about in relation to the kerosun etc.?

Is the fuel dripped onto the wick at the top or bottom, and in one place i.e. one drip, or several across the wick? (cripes - what a drippy question!!)

Can you tell me a bit more about the size, arrangement and orientation of the baffles above the burner box?

Is there anything like a float valve to ensure it can’t flood (mostly called a “toby regulator” round here, used on the Dickinsons etc to ensure the burner doesn’t get to full – I suspect its not required with the wick type burner). Is this situation addressed in any other way e.g. orientation and level of the tank?

Just to queer the pitch completely I saw a very interesting idea while scanning through a pile of old “Classic Boat” magazines today. Everyone knows about the clay flower pot on top of a stove burner, but these guys had gone one step further. The flower pot had an flexible, fireproof aluminium “ducting” as a “flue” leadind off it, which was lead to a ventilator. The flowerpot had to be the type with holes in the bottom. They reckoned they hadn’t poisoned themselves with carbon monoxide but . . . .

This idea could have a lot of appeal, providing someone else has conclusively proved it wont kill you!!

Cheers - Foster

[Foster Price]

Hello Conrad

This is great, sounds like it could be well within my capabilities to build, but a few more questions to complete the word picture.

I assume the wick is one sheet of material, i.e. not a circular wick like Ian was talking about in relation to the kerosun etc.?

Is the fuel dripped onto the wick at the top or bottom, and in one place i.e. one drip, or several across the wick? (cripes - what a drippy question!!)

Can you tell me a bit more about the size, arrangement and orientation of the baffles above the burner box?

Is there anything like a float valve to ensure it can’t flood (mostly called a “toby regulator” round here, used on the Dickinsons etc to ensure the burner doesn’t get to full – I suspect its not required with the wick type burner). Is this situation addressed in any other way e.g. orientation and level of the tank?

Just to queer the pitch completely I saw a very interesting idea while scanning through a pile of old “Classic Boat” magazines today. Everyone knows about the clay flower pot on top of a stove burner, but these guys had gone one step further. The flower pot had an flexible, fireproof aluminium “ducting” as a “flue” leadind off it, which was lead to a ventilator. The flowerpot had to be the type with holes in the bottom. They reckoned they hadn’t poisoned themselves with carbon monoxide but . . . .

This idea could have a lot of appeal, providing someone else has conclusively proved it wont kill you!!

Cheers - Foster

[Wilson Fitt]

A couple of more thoughts on the Dickenson.

We have kept ours running for days on end at sea in very rough conditions without trouble. A warm, dry cabin is wonderful when it's cold, dark and nasty on deck. An aquaintance who has been there says that the west coast fishermen ("fishers" in politically correct government speak) leave their big Dickensons running all year round in weather that we tenderfoot yachties would consider life threatening.

Ian: Thanks for the suggestion of a taller stack. I often add a two foot outside extension but it's not a sure fire (ha) cure for backdrafting. I think the problem is low pressure in the cabin caused, as I said, when the wind is blowing very hard right on the bow. The dodger over the companionway trys to extract more air than can get back in through the dorades and the stove chimney becomes a supplementary air intake. I think that any problems we have had while sailing were genuine downdrafts from sails.

The backdraft can be cured by opening a hatch forward, but that admits lots of cold air, usually mixed with water, which is what we are trying to avoid.

Other suggestions are welcome.

[Wilson Fitt]

A couple of more thoughts on the Dickenson.

We have kept ours running for days on end at sea in very rough conditions without trouble. A warm, dry cabin is wonderful when it's cold, dark and nasty on deck. An aquaintance who has been there says that the west coast fishermen ("fishers" in politically correct government speak) leave their big Dickensons running all year round in weather that we tenderfoot yachties would consider life threatening.

Ian: Thanks for the suggestion of a taller stack. I often add a two foot outside extension but it's not a sure fire (ha) cure for backdrafting. I think the problem is low pressure in the cabin caused, as I said, when the wind is blowing very hard right on the bow. The dodger over the companionway trys to extract more air than can get back in through the dorades and the stove chimney becomes a supplementary air intake. I think that any problems we have had while sailing were genuine downdrafts from sails.

The backdraft can be cured by opening a hatch forward, but that admits lots of cold air, usually mixed with water, which is what we are trying to avoid.

Other suggestions are welcome.

[Wilson Fitt]

A couple of more thoughts on the Dickenson.

We have kept ours running for days on end at sea in very rough conditions without trouble. A warm, dry cabin is wonderful when it's cold, dark and nasty on deck. An aquaintance who has been there says that the west coast fishermen ("fishers" in politically correct government speak) leave their big Dickensons running all year round in weather that we tenderfoot yachties would consider life threatening.

Ian: Thanks for the suggestion of a taller stack. I often add a two foot outside extension but it's not a sure fire (ha) cure for backdrafting. I think the problem is low pressure in the cabin caused, as I said, when the wind is blowing very hard right on the bow. The dodger over the companionway trys to extract more air than can get back in through the dorades and the stove chimney becomes a supplementary air intake. I think that any problems we have had while sailing were genuine downdrafts from sails.

The backdraft can be cured by opening a hatch forward, but that admits lots of cold air, usually mixed with water, which is what we are trying to avoid.

Other suggestions are welcome.

[Kermit]

This one'll keep you warm inside and out:

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/htoval.htm

[Kermit]

This one'll keep you warm inside and out:

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/htoval.htm

[Kermit]

This one'll keep you warm inside and out:

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/htoval.htm

[Kermit]

Or you can do it the Irish way...

http://www.waterfordstoves.com/pages/stanley.shtml

[Kermit]

Or you can do it the Irish way...

http://www.waterfordstoves.com/pages/stanley.shtml

[Kermit]

Or you can do it the Irish way...

http://www.waterfordstoves.com/pages/stanley.shtml

[Donn]

THIS is the way the Irish do it.

http://www.whiskeymaster.com/index/1780.gif
:D

[Donn]

THIS is the way the Irish do it.

http://www.whiskeymaster.com/index/1780.gif
:D

[Donn]

THIS is the way the Irish do it.

http://www.whiskeymaster.com/index/1780.gif
:D

[Kermit]

They BURN it???

[Kermit]

They BURN it???

[Kermit]

They BURN it???

[Donn]

Yes, Kermit...internal combustion.

[Donn]

Yes, Kermit...internal combustion.

[Donn]

Yes, Kermit...internal combustion.

[Kermit]

Ahhh. The SLOW oxidation. You had me worried.

[Kermit]

Ahhh. The SLOW oxidation. You had me worried.

[Kermit]

Ahhh. The SLOW oxidation. You had me worried.