Varnish shelf life

[Ken Hutchins]

Does anybody know what the shelf life of oil spar varnish is? Our local paint supply store going out of business after more than 50 years. :( :( :( :( :mad: :mad: I'm going there first thing in the AM and stocking up with whatever amount they have in stock.

[Ken Hutchins]

Does anybody know what the shelf life of oil spar varnish is? Our local paint supply store going out of business after more than 50 years. :( :( :( :( :mad: :mad: I'm going there first thing in the AM and stocking up with whatever amount they have in stock.

[Ken Hutchins]

Does anybody know what the shelf life of oil spar varnish is? Our local paint supply store going out of business after more than 50 years. :( :( :( :( :mad: :mad: I'm going there first thing in the AM and stocking up with whatever amount they have in stock.

[JimConlin]

I recollect hearing that the stuff that deteriorates can be replaced with a little Japan dryer.
YMMV
No guarantees expressed or implied.
This advice is worth what you paid for it. Tops.

[JimConlin]

I recollect hearing that the stuff that deteriorates can be replaced with a little Japan dryer.
YMMV
No guarantees expressed or implied.
This advice is worth what you paid for it. Tops.

[JimConlin]

I recollect hearing that the stuff that deteriorates can be replaced with a little Japan dryer.
YMMV
No guarantees expressed or implied.
This advice is worth what you paid for it. Tops.

[Bob Cleek]

It's all about how well the can is sealed. I've used newly opened five year old cans of varnish and couldn't tell the difference from a brand new one. On the other hand, for reasons only the thinner gods know, I've had varnish go lumpy the week after it was first opened. Go figure.

[Bob Cleek]

It's all about how well the can is sealed. I've used newly opened five year old cans of varnish and couldn't tell the difference from a brand new one. On the other hand, for reasons only the thinner gods know, I've had varnish go lumpy the week after it was first opened. Go figure.

[Bob Cleek]

It's all about how well the can is sealed. I've used newly opened five year old cans of varnish and couldn't tell the difference from a brand new one. On the other hand, for reasons only the thinner gods know, I've had varnish go lumpy the week after it was first opened. Go figure.

[Ed Harrow]

Pretty long. My experiece is similar to Bob's. Your results may vary.

[Ed Harrow]

Pretty long. My experiece is similar to Bob's. Your results may vary.

[Ed Harrow]

Pretty long. My experiece is similar to Bob's. Your results may vary.

[ssor]

My experience has been that if you are able to pour it out of the can it will do the job. Sometimes it grows a pretty thick skin on a partial can. I have some twenty year old gymseal that still dries and makes the hardest finish I have ever found.

[ssor]

My experience has been that if you are able to pour it out of the can it will do the job. Sometimes it grows a pretty thick skin on a partial can. I have some twenty year old gymseal that still dries and makes the hardest finish I have ever found.

[ssor]

My experience has been that if you are able to pour it out of the can it will do the job. Sometimes it grows a pretty thick skin on a partial can. I have some twenty year old gymseal that still dries and makes the hardest finish I have ever found.

[uncas]

What I do with 1/2 full cans is put the varnish in a plastic ( screw top ) container and add marbles to it until the air bubble normally at the top of the container is non-existant..This eliminates any air and hence prolongs the life of the varnish.....No film at the top...
Seems to have worked well for a couple of years...As I am constantly using varnish...have at least four plastic containers floating around in the the bilge.
Checked them last week...All OKAY.

[ 02-12-2005, 08:25 PM: Message edited by: uncas ]

[uncas]

What I do with 1/2 full cans is put the varnish in a plastic ( screw top ) container and add marbles to it until the air bubble normally at the top of the container is non-existant..This eliminates any air and hence prolongs the life of the varnish.....No film at the top...
Seems to have worked well for a couple of years...As I am constantly using varnish...have at least four plastic containers floating around in the the bilge.
Checked them last week...All OKAY.

[ 02-12-2005, 08:25 PM: Message edited by: uncas ]

[uncas]

What I do with 1/2 full cans is put the varnish in a plastic ( screw top ) container and add marbles to it until the air bubble normally at the top of the container is non-existant..This eliminates any air and hence prolongs the life of the varnish.....No film at the top...
Seems to have worked well for a couple of years...As I am constantly using varnish...have at least four plastic containers floating around in the the bilge.
Checked them last week...All OKAY.

[ 02-12-2005, 08:25 PM: Message edited by: uncas ]

[JimConlin]

I set once-opened cans upside down. If the seal is imperfect, the small amt. of paint/varnish oozing through the gap will form a seal.

[JimConlin]

I set once-opened cans upside down. If the seal is imperfect, the small amt. of paint/varnish oozing through the gap will form a seal.

[JimConlin]

I set once-opened cans upside down. If the seal is imperfect, the small amt. of paint/varnish oozing through the gap will form a seal.

[Tom M.]

I've used Bloxygen with good results. Its an expensive 10 dollar bottle of compressed inert gas thats heavier than oxygen. Squirt some in there and seal it up quickly. The Bloxygen layer supposedly "Blocks the Oxygen" from drying the varnish. I've had some varnish last for almost 2 years now. I keep it in a glass peanut butter container that has a good gasket on the lid.

I don't know what the shelf life of unopened cans are. I assume indefinite depending on the seal and how its stored.

[Tom M.]

I've used Bloxygen with good results. Its an expensive 10 dollar bottle of compressed inert gas thats heavier than oxygen. Squirt some in there and seal it up quickly. The Bloxygen layer supposedly "Blocks the Oxygen" from drying the varnish. I've had some varnish last for almost 2 years now. I keep it in a glass peanut butter container that has a good gasket on the lid.

I don't know what the shelf life of unopened cans are. I assume indefinite depending on the seal and how its stored.

[Tom M.]

I've used Bloxygen with good results. Its an expensive 10 dollar bottle of compressed inert gas thats heavier than oxygen. Squirt some in there and seal it up quickly. The Bloxygen layer supposedly "Blocks the Oxygen" from drying the varnish. I've had some varnish last for almost 2 years now. I keep it in a glass peanut butter container that has a good gasket on the lid.

I don't know what the shelf life of unopened cans are. I assume indefinite depending on the seal and how its stored.

[uncas]

Tom F.
Marbles are a lot cheaper...May not be perfect but..
The intent is the same to get the air out though...
jamj

[uncas]

Tom F.
Marbles are a lot cheaper...May not be perfect but..
The intent is the same to get the air out though...
jamj

[uncas]

Tom F.
Marbles are a lot cheaper...May not be perfect but..
The intent is the same to get the air out though...
jamj

[Jim H]

You know, those Food Saver vacuum sealers have a wine bottle cap sold as an accessory. I'd bet you could pour your varnish into a clean wine bottle, then suck the air out with your sealer. When needed you'd just pour the varish out into another container.

I just checked, and they sell one, made just for cannisters, for 1/3 the price of their base product.
http://www.foodsaver.com/images/products/prodImage_1530.JPG

http://www.foodsaver.com/images/products/prodImage_1098.JPG

[Jim H]

You know, those Food Saver vacuum sealers have a wine bottle cap sold as an accessory. I'd bet you could pour your varnish into a clean wine bottle, then suck the air out with your sealer. When needed you'd just pour the varish out into another container.

I just checked, and they sell one, made just for cannisters, for 1/3 the price of their base product.
http://www.foodsaver.com/images/products/prodImage_1530.JPG

http://www.foodsaver.com/images/products/prodImage_1098.JPG

[Jim H]

You know, those Food Saver vacuum sealers have a wine bottle cap sold as an accessory. I'd bet you could pour your varnish into a clean wine bottle, then suck the air out with your sealer. When needed you'd just pour the varish out into another container.

I just checked, and they sell one, made just for cannisters, for 1/3 the price of their base product.
http://www.foodsaver.com/images/products/prodImage_1530.JPG

http://www.foodsaver.com/images/products/prodImage_1098.JPG

[uncas]

I was thinking about this idea today...Do wonder whether it would work although I can't see why it wouldn't.
uncas

[uncas]

I was thinking about this idea today...Do wonder whether it would work although I can't see why it wouldn't.
uncas

[uncas]

I was thinking about this idea today...Do wonder whether it would work although I can't see why it wouldn't.
uncas

[Dan McCosh]

I've heard that propane from a torch (unlit) also displaces the air. Actually, the upside-down trick also works pretty well. The outside air pressure keeps any leakage in check.

[Dan McCosh]

I've heard that propane from a torch (unlit) also displaces the air. Actually, the upside-down trick also works pretty well. The outside air pressure keeps any leakage in check.

[Dan McCosh]

I've heard that propane from a torch (unlit) also displaces the air. Actually, the upside-down trick also works pretty well. The outside air pressure keeps any leakage in check.

[Nicholas Carey]

AFAIK, the japan driers (read: cobalt salts) used in varnishes tend to become less effective over time, until the varnish won't effectively polymerize in anything resembling a reasonable amount of time and remains gummy/sticky.

[Nicholas Carey]

AFAIK, the japan driers (read: cobalt salts) used in varnishes tend to become less effective over time, until the varnish won't effectively polymerize in anything resembling a reasonable amount of time and remains gummy/sticky.

[Nicholas Carey]

AFAIK, the japan driers (read: cobalt salts) used in varnishes tend to become less effective over time, until the varnish won't effectively polymerize in anything resembling a reasonable amount of time and remains gummy/sticky.

[Bob Cleek]

Come on guys, think about it. If you have a half empty can of varnish and you turn it upside down, you still have a half a can of air, so... you just get skin on the bottom of the varnish, instead of on the top where you can usually cut it out and lift it off fairly neatly.

None of the so-called miracle methods seem to work consistently, so I think the ones that cost money are really probably a rip-off. Here's a couple of tried and true freebies.

One, you can BREATHE into the can. Yep, this may be an old wive's tale, but it seems to work with a fair degree of regularity. What you do is put the top on the can and then tip it open a little bit and take a deep breath. Hold the breath for as long as you can an then (not in the wind, obviously) you breathe out into the can and shut it fast, trapping the breath inside. I suppose this works because holding your breath should result in an exhale of carbon dioxide with little oxygen.

The second method that works pretty well is simply to take a piece of Saran wrap or the equivaalent and stuff it into the can and into the varnish, spreading it around to the edges. Surface tension should hold the plastic wrap to the top of the varnish. Leave the rest of the plastic to lay outside the can and then put the top on, holding the plastic wrap sealed in the space between the can and the top. Costs zero and works about 99 percent of the time. No air can get to the varnish at all if there is none trapped between the plastic wrap and the edge of the can.

[Bob Cleek]

Come on guys, think about it. If you have a half empty can of varnish and you turn it upside down, you still have a half a can of air, so... you just get skin on the bottom of the varnish, instead of on the top where you can usually cut it out and lift it off fairly neatly.

None of the so-called miracle methods seem to work consistently, so I think the ones that cost money are really probably a rip-off. Here's a couple of tried and true freebies.

One, you can BREATHE into the can. Yep, this may be an old wive's tale, but it seems to work with a fair degree of regularity. What you do is put the top on the can and then tip it open a little bit and take a deep breath. Hold the breath for as long as you can an then (not in the wind, obviously) you breathe out into the can and shut it fast, trapping the breath inside. I suppose this works because holding your breath should result in an exhale of carbon dioxide with little oxygen.

The second method that works pretty well is simply to take a piece of Saran wrap or the equivaalent and stuff it into the can and into the varnish, spreading it around to the edges. Surface tension should hold the plastic wrap to the top of the varnish. Leave the rest of the plastic to lay outside the can and then put the top on, holding the plastic wrap sealed in the space between the can and the top. Costs zero and works about 99 percent of the time. No air can get to the varnish at all if there is none trapped between the plastic wrap and the edge of the can.

[Bob Cleek]

Come on guys, think about it. If you have a half empty can of varnish and you turn it upside down, you still have a half a can of air, so... you just get skin on the bottom of the varnish, instead of on the top where you can usually cut it out and lift it off fairly neatly.

None of the so-called miracle methods seem to work consistently, so I think the ones that cost money are really probably a rip-off. Here's a couple of tried and true freebies.

One, you can BREATHE into the can. Yep, this may be an old wive's tale, but it seems to work with a fair degree of regularity. What you do is put the top on the can and then tip it open a little bit and take a deep breath. Hold the breath for as long as you can an then (not in the wind, obviously) you breathe out into the can and shut it fast, trapping the breath inside. I suppose this works because holding your breath should result in an exhale of carbon dioxide with little oxygen.

The second method that works pretty well is simply to take a piece of Saran wrap or the equivaalent and stuff it into the can and into the varnish, spreading it around to the edges. Surface tension should hold the plastic wrap to the top of the varnish. Leave the rest of the plastic to lay outside the can and then put the top on, holding the plastic wrap sealed in the space between the can and the top. Costs zero and works about 99 percent of the time. No air can get to the varnish at all if there is none trapped between the plastic wrap and the edge of the can.

[Ed Harrow]

Originally posted by uncas:
What I do with 1/2 full cans ... add marbles to it until the air bubble normally at the top of the container is non-existant...This trick worked for "Poppie", Uncle Dick, my father, and the damn thing works for me, too. I was told to do this in the typical quart varnish container, so that's what I do.

However, this ain't really the answer to Ken's question.

[Ed Harrow]

Originally posted by uncas:
What I do with 1/2 full cans ... add marbles to it until the air bubble normally at the top of the container is non-existant...This trick worked for "Poppie", Uncle Dick, my father, and the damn thing works for me, too. I was told to do this in the typical quart varnish container, so that's what I do.

However, this ain't really the answer to Ken's question.

[Ed Harrow]

Originally posted by uncas:
What I do with 1/2 full cans ... add marbles to it until the air bubble normally at the top of the container is non-existant...This trick worked for "Poppie", Uncle Dick, my father, and the damn thing works for me, too. I was told to do this in the typical quart varnish container, so that's what I do.

However, this ain't really the answer to Ken's question.

[JimConlin]

Here's my barnyard reasoning as to why (I think) upright storage skins over and upside-down doesn't:
In upright storage, if the seal of the lid isn't perfect and the temperature or barometric pressure cycles, the head space in the can will breathe new air in and out, supplying fresh air to dry the surface of the product. Inverted, if the can breathes, a bit of the product oozes through the gap, is dried and forms a seal.
QED

[JimConlin]

Here's my barnyard reasoning as to why (I think) upright storage skins over and upside-down doesn't:
In upright storage, if the seal of the lid isn't perfect and the temperature or barometric pressure cycles, the head space in the can will breathe new air in and out, supplying fresh air to dry the surface of the product. Inverted, if the can breathes, a bit of the product oozes through the gap, is dried and forms a seal.
QED

[JimConlin]

Here's my barnyard reasoning as to why (I think) upright storage skins over and upside-down doesn't:
In upright storage, if the seal of the lid isn't perfect and the temperature or barometric pressure cycles, the head space in the can will breathe new air in and out, supplying fresh air to dry the surface of the product. Inverted, if the can breathes, a bit of the product oozes through the gap, is dried and forms a seal.
QED

[uncas]

Ed Harrow...Only to the extent that the method extends, I hope the shelf life of the varnish. If left as a half empty can ( without removing the air) the shelf life would be less...I would guess.
I guess it it hard to know what the shelf life of vanrish actually is...Perhaps precautions are not necessary...Afterall, what is Varnish anyway? I don't think it is going to turn into amber for a few years...may dry out...though...

[uncas]

Ed Harrow...Only to the extent that the method extends, I hope the shelf life of the varnish. If left as a half empty can ( without removing the air) the shelf life would be less...I would guess.
I guess it it hard to know what the shelf life of vanrish actually is...Perhaps precautions are not necessary...Afterall, what is Varnish anyway? I don't think it is going to turn into amber for a few years...may dry out...though...

[uncas]

Ed Harrow...Only to the extent that the method extends, I hope the shelf life of the varnish. If left as a half empty can ( without removing the air) the shelf life would be less...I would guess.
I guess it it hard to know what the shelf life of vanrish actually is...Perhaps precautions are not necessary...Afterall, what is Varnish anyway? I don't think it is going to turn into amber for a few years...may dry out...though...

[Alan Peck]

I also always turn the can over which seems to seal the lid.

However don't make the mistake I made recently.

I thought the lid was on tight and when I turned the can over, I found that the lid was anything but tight.

The lid came off and I dumped a 1/2 quart of expensive marine paint on top of my workbench.

Talk about a mess to clean up! Now I always take the can outside before I turn it over.

[Alan Peck]

I also always turn the can over which seems to seal the lid.

However don't make the mistake I made recently.

I thought the lid was on tight and when I turned the can over, I found that the lid was anything but tight.

The lid came off and I dumped a 1/2 quart of expensive marine paint on top of my workbench.

Talk about a mess to clean up! Now I always take the can outside before I turn it over.

[Alan Peck]

I also always turn the can over which seems to seal the lid.

However don't make the mistake I made recently.

I thought the lid was on tight and when I turned the can over, I found that the lid was anything but tight.

The lid came off and I dumped a 1/2 quart of expensive marine paint on top of my workbench.

Talk about a mess to clean up! Now I always take the can outside before I turn it over.

[Dave Carnell]

An unlit propanr torch feeds an air-propane mixture to the can. You have to take the torch burner off to get air-free propane. Put the unused varnish in empty soda bottles, purge the air with propane, and observe the miraculous result. I'm the original publisher of this method, I believe.

[Dave Carnell]

An unlit propanr torch feeds an air-propane mixture to the can. You have to take the torch burner off to get air-free propane. Put the unused varnish in empty soda bottles, purge the air with propane, and observe the miraculous result. I'm the original publisher of this method, I believe.

[Dave Carnell]

An unlit propanr torch feeds an air-propane mixture to the can. You have to take the torch burner off to get air-free propane. Put the unused varnish in empty soda bottles, purge the air with propane, and observe the miraculous result. I'm the original publisher of this method, I believe.

[J. Dillon]

I try to empty the can on the boat by brushing the last of it there. A lot better then sitting in any can,bottle or container. ;)

JD

[J. Dillon]

I try to empty the can on the boat by brushing the last of it there. A lot better then sitting in any can,bottle or container. ;)

JD

[J. Dillon]

I try to empty the can on the boat by brushing the last of it there. A lot better then sitting in any can,bottle or container. ;)

JD