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Mike J
05-10-2015, 02:51 PM
I'm in the middle of my Fulmar build and I'm not having much luck with how to finish off my stem. Here's what I've got:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7708/17493448705_bcf48224f6_z_d.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8782/17467456276_d20ab95450_z_d.jpg

There will be a 3/4" inwale and an additional 3/4" outwale as well as the breasthook. My first thought is to cut off the stem and shape the breasthook into a cap of sorts but I'm not convinced. If it helps the stem is 4-1/4" wide at the sheer, and once the second outwale is installed it will line up with the bevel on the stem.

Any thought or pics will be appreciated.

Mike

Peerie Maa
05-10-2015, 02:59 PM
I would fit the breast hook and in and outwales. Shape the breast hook with a crown springing from the slope of the inwale top surface. Then trim the stem fair to the breasthook top surface.

Does the parallel sideing continue down round the stem, or is it browed off from the rebate to the front?

Mike J
05-10-2015, 03:24 PM
Thanks Nick. I forgot to add that the gunwales, breasthook and stem are mahogany and I would like to finish them bright, so my concern is the look of all that end grain of the stem next to the flat grain of the breasthook. Maybe it's of no consequence and will look fine?

The parallel siding on the stem does continue down and tapers out at the keel transition, true to the plans.

Mike

Peerie Maa
05-10-2015, 03:33 PM
The parallel siding on the stem does continue down and tapers out at the keel transition, true to the plans.

Mike

Are you sure of that, it would be really unusual, unique in effect.

Mike J
05-10-2015, 08:15 PM
Uh, well, now I'm not! BY:D Maybe I'm not using the correct terminology. Here's a better pic showing the entire stem:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8786/17103310611_084cc70f05_z_d.jpg

You can see the line where the bevel starts around an inch from the plank ends; that face is parallel to the centerline of the boat. I'm not near the plans to verify if I built it as drawn or if I misinterpreted the plans. I do recall the stem detail is drawn full size and that the flat forward face flares as it nears the sheer, and that the second outwale will align exactly with the stem bevel. Regardless, even if I should have taken the bevel from the flat face directly to the plank ends, I still would have a really wide, chunky stem to finish off. Do you think the grain differences will look OK finished bright?

Mike

BBSebens
05-10-2015, 09:29 PM
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8782/17467456276_d20ab95450_z_d.jpg


Any thought or pics will be appreciated.

Mike


Leave it tall and carve it into a sampson post. No need for cleats up front then. Plus, great hand hold for pushing the boat around when its on the trailer.

Peerie Maa
05-11-2015, 04:11 AM
Uh, well, now I'm not! BY:D Maybe I'm not using the correct terminology. Here's a better pic showing the entire stem:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8786/17103310611_084cc70f05_z_d.jpg

You can see the line where the bevel starts around an inch from the plank ends; that face is parallel to the centerline of the boat. I'm not near the plans to verify if I built it as drawn or if I misinterpreted the plans. I do recall the stem detail is drawn full size and that the flat forward face flares as it nears the sheer, and that the second outwale will align exactly with the stem bevel. Regardless, even if I should have taken the bevel from the flat face directly to the plank ends, I still would have a really wide, chunky stem to finish off. Do you think the grain differences will look OK finished bright?

Mike

Fair the bevel back to the rebate. You will still end up with a wide stem at the top, but this was not uncommon, and on motorboats was often finished round as a soft nose.

My best advise about the looks is to test it. Glue a scrap of your stem timber to a scrap of monogamy and varnish them. I personally would not worry much as the two components would often be made from differing wood, so you are being honest if you accept what you get without hiding anything.

jtdums
05-11-2015, 05:17 AM
I am close to this same decision point regarding what to do with the stem on our Jericho Bay Skiff.

I like the idea of using the stem as a sampson post of some kind, but it it remains proud of the breasthook, then it wouldn't it block the navigation lights(assuming you are installing)? At least for me I was hoping to use a low profile LED nav light. I am anxiously following your thread to see what you come up with.

At this point I was considering fitting the breasthook and "capping over" the stem, which I also hope to finish bright.

Mike J
05-11-2015, 08:07 AM
Thanks fellas for the thoughts. You're right Nick, I see now that the plan view does show the stem beveled back to the rebate. I do like the look of the parallel sides though so I think I will do as you suggested and make a mock-up and varnish it before I modify the stem. I like the idea of keeping everything honest and letting function dictate form. Ben, I like the sampson post idea, but with the stem much wider than it is deep fore 'n aft I think it will look disproportionate. I will say that you've got me thinking about maybe a sampson post on the foredeck instead of the cleat I was planning on. I've got a bit of real estate between the breasthook and the mast step and the foredeck is two planks below the sheer so a post may suit me better. Here's what I have:https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8843/17305616848_ae1a6e1ef6_z_d.jpg

Thoughts?

Jtdums,making the breasthook into a cap was my first thought and I still may go that way, but I think just trimming the stem down into a low bump forward of the breasthook will be plan A. As for nav lights I won't be using anything permanent, just clamp-ons if I decide to install an outboard, otherwise I only need a white lantern for USCG compliance. Good luck on your Jericho Bay skiff, that's an honest boat if I ever saw one.

Again I appreciate the help.

Mike