Sneakbox refurbish

[sneak freak]

I have a sneakbox that needs refurbishing. The bottom is cedar planks supported on frames. Each side of the boat is a cedar plank, continuous from front to back, with the top and bottom frames let-in to notches in the side plank. The top of the boat is plywood. My guess is that the builder wanted the bottom to be rounded in two directions and therefore used planks there but was willing to accept a flatter profile on the top of the boat and therefore could use plywood on top.

My question is how do I treat the bottom of the boat so it will be durable and watertight. I have narrowed it to two options and would like your input regarding materials/methods/preferences:

1. restore the bottom of the boat as originally constructed, but possibly upgrade with epoxy sealer and some kind of joint filler/seal at the plank joints. I like this option but have no clue how to proceed.

2. remove the existing planks, plane the frames to remove the lateral curve (i.e. three to four flat sections across the boat) and install plywood and cover with fiberglass. This I know how to do (not sure it will work) but I would prefer to keep the planks and original shape of the boat.

I hope to start this project in the spring after this hunting season. Thank you for your help in researching materials and/or methods.

[Bob Smalser]

Originally posted by sneak freak:

1. restore the bottom of the boat as originally constructed...

2. remove the existing planks, plane the frames to remove the lateral curve (i.e. three to four flat sections across the boat) and install plywood and cover with fiberglass....Had an Uncle in New Gretna that built those and garveys commercially...not having one of his is one of my life's major regrets.

Is it built like this...perhaps with a spray rail affixed to the deck? Old or new boat? Plywood's been around since WWII.

http://www.lehsd.k12.nj.us/seaport/Jones/barneg4.jpg

http://www.lehsd.k12.nj.us/seaport/Jones/barnegat_bay_sneakbox.htm

http://www.rtpnet.org/robroy/books/nhb/JPG/B8.JPG

http://www.rtpnet.org/robroy/books/nhb/SNEAK.HTM

http://www.rtpnet.org/robroy/books/nhb/JPG/B9.JPG

Both planking and deck are usually fitted to a U-shaped "harping piece" that serves as a chine.

The planking is carvel....there is a caulking seam planed into the edges of the planks into which cotton is driven to make the boat watertight and allow for some expansion/contraction as the wood dries or wets.

If there is no rot....you should go over it thoroughly with both a powerwasher and an icepick to clean and look for soft, punky spots....and the plank edges haven't been wrecked....there's no reason you just can't renew the caulking, repaint and use the boat. It will tighten up considerably when it gets wet.

Rake out the old caulking with the tang of a bent file. Acquire a pound or so of Bristol Cotton, some caulking irons and a booklet on how to do it from Jamestown Supply and WB magazine...

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/info_pages/links.htm?E+s cstore (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/info_pages/links.htm?E+scstore)

...recaulk and paint.

After raking the seams, a strong clear wood preservative soaking is a good idea, as is priming (soaking) the new cotton in a thinned poisonous primer like red lead or copper bottom paint.

After that's done, it's also a good idea to saturate the raw wood after removing old paint with hot, thin linseed-turps-japan drier heated in a double boiler...will prevent the wood from becoming water saturated later. Needs a few weeks to dry before painting with a good alkyd oil-based paint like Kirby Marine Paints or Kelly-Moore sells.

That's the traditional way....and the least expensive way....kind to the wood but will need repainting eventually.

Less-traditional ways include treating the wood after removing the paint with thinned epoxy (look up CPES here)instead of linseed at 80 bucks a gallon vice 5 bucks a gallon....and another is applying splines/fabric and epoxy to the bottom...but that more-desperate measure is only appropriate for old, tired wood that will no longer tighten up.

Replacing planking that doesn't need it is waste...and under no circumstances use polyester resin like in true fiberglass on solid wood...or plywood, for that matter...too brittle...epoxy a much better choice....and this boat is small enuf that the cost difference isn't a big consideration.

So read up, post some pics here so we have a better idea of what you have...and ask questions.

[ 10-09-2003, 12:58 PM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[Thaddeus J. Van Gilder]

Many, many old Jersey boats were planked cedar on oak, with a ply deck, and by no means were they just the small ones. I had a 37' Egg harbor that was essentially done that way.

As far as fixing the planking, I'd start by recalking her with cotton wicking, covered with red lead or bottom paint, and top it with Interlux seam compound. The brown stuff.

Throw her overboard, let her sit under water for a week, pump her out, and then decide if she needs planking work.

I'd wait untill she takes up to paint, because she will likely swell a lot if she is very dry.

Good luck with that!!!
-Thad

[sneak freak]

The boat is similar to those pictured but the planks don't wrap around the sides and into a hairpin. The hairpin and side plank functions are completed by one full plank on each side standing nearly vertical.

Anyway, it appears that refurbishing the planks is the way to go. Do you guys recommend any specific books that will guide me through the process?

Wooden boat has a repair book and a couple of boat building books that may be sufficient, and Jamestown Distributors lists a book called "Planking and Fastening" that may also be good.

Recommendations would be appreciated.

[Bob Smalser]

I can describe how to caulk but I don't have it in a book. Somebody else will, I'm sure.

John Gardner's "Building Classic Small Craft Vol I" has a complete sneakbox plan based on Stephens and Chapelle work....like the ones we used to build.

West Marine puts out a couple good free pamphlets on repairing wood boats in their stores...but remember their goal is to sell you epoxy.

Now you got me all fired up to cut the lumber for a new one. Fun, handy boats.

[nedL]

I might suggest you take a look at the book "The Sea Bright Skiff and other Boats" by Peter Guthorn. There is at least a chapter on sneakboxes, with a good number of pictures (some of which have been posted above). If you have any concern about future value I'd be real careful about the idea of replacing the cedar plankinng with plywood ("plane the frames to remove tha lateral curves"). Sneakboxes are a very recognized design with some unique construction techniques (that harping)& I don't know how desirable it would be after such extreme changes. Real nice little boats. Can you post pictures?
If you do try caulking her I don't believe a caulking mallot & iron are at all in order as she is so lightly planked. This is where a traditional caulking wheel would be used.

[ 10-10-2003, 08:02 AM: Message edited by: nedL ]

[Jack Heinlen]

Since you're just learning, don't do anything hasty. I would try throwing it in the water, as said above, and see if it soaks up tight before tearing into it. And if it needs replanking in spots use original materials. It's not that difficult to learn, folks here will help talk you through it, and there are good books, some of which have been mentioned.

Whatever you do, don't monkey with the shape in order to fit ply. Give it away to someone who knows what it is before you do that.