Anyone recognize the make?

[uncas]

Took out my bilge pump...the original 1948....
Emblem on it looks like this except "cs" instead of parenthesis....

(W)

[uncas]

Took out my bilge pump...the original 1948....
Emblem on it looks like this except "cs" instead of parenthesis....

(W)

[uncas]

Took out my bilge pump...the original 1948....
Emblem on it looks like this except "cs" instead of parenthesis....

(W)

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Wilcox Crittenden? Is it cast bronze?

I don't quite understand the CS.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Wilcox Crittenden? Is it cast bronze?

I don't quite understand the CS.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Wilcox Crittenden? Is it cast bronze?

I don't quite understand the CS.

[uncas]

Bronze! yup...The W is enclosed in the "C'S...and intertwined around the ends...

[uncas]

Bronze! yup...The W is enclosed in the "C'S...and intertwined around the ends...

[uncas]

Bronze! yup...The W is enclosed in the "C'S...and intertwined around the ends...

[uncas]

PMJ...are they stiill in business if my pump was made by them...
Thinking of refurbishing it and putting it back in...as an auxillary pump...

[uncas]

PMJ...are they stiill in business if my pump was made by them...
Thinking of refurbishing it and putting it back in...as an auxillary pump...

[uncas]

PMJ...are they stiill in business if my pump was made by them...
Thinking of refurbishing it and putting it back in...as an auxillary pump...

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Sure sounds like it... I don't know if you'd get parts for a pump that old, but take it apart, it's probably built like the proverbial house... any worn parts could probably be made.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Sure sounds like it... I don't know if you'd get parts for a pump that old, but take it apart, it's probably built like the proverbial house... any worn parts could probably be made.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Sure sounds like it... I don't know if you'd get parts for a pump that old, but take it apart, it's probably built like the proverbial house... any worn parts could probably be made.

[uncas]

Gettin it apart is gonna be a kick...After almost sixty years...may take a sledge hammer and then, well it won't be worth saving..
Nice piece of bronze though..Heavy...long...just bloody big.
But kinda neat!

[uncas]

Gettin it apart is gonna be a kick...After almost sixty years...may take a sledge hammer and then, well it won't be worth saving..
Nice piece of bronze though..Heavy...long...just bloody big.
But kinda neat!

[uncas]

Gettin it apart is gonna be a kick...After almost sixty years...may take a sledge hammer and then, well it won't be worth saving..
Nice piece of bronze though..Heavy...long...just bloody big.
But kinda neat!

[kc8pql]

http://www.wilcoxcrittenden.com/home/logo_big.gif

Not really the same company anymore. Mostly just heads now. No pumps.

[kc8pql]

http://www.wilcoxcrittenden.com/home/logo_big.gif

Not really the same company anymore. Mostly just heads now. No pumps.

[kc8pql]

http://www.wilcoxcrittenden.com/home/logo_big.gif

Not really the same company anymore. Mostly just heads now. No pumps.

[uncas]

Up...thereis a lot of stuff covering it up...but the logo appears to be correct.
Thanks
jamj

[uncas]

Up...thereis a lot of stuff covering it up...but the logo appears to be correct.
Thanks
jamj

[uncas]

Up...thereis a lot of stuff covering it up...but the logo appears to be correct.
Thanks
jamj

[Hughman]

Is this the hand plunger pump? All you need to do is cut a leather washer.

Lots of these on ebay for $20.

[Hughman]

Is this the hand plunger pump? All you need to do is cut a leather washer.

Lots of these on ebay for $20.

[Hughman]

Is this the hand plunger pump? All you need to do is cut a leather washer.

Lots of these on ebay for $20.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Soak it in Kerosene. It'll come apart. Keep in mind if it's a manual one, it's worth money. Lots of vintage guys out there would love it.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Soak it in Kerosene. It'll come apart. Keep in mind if it's a manual one, it's worth money. Lots of vintage guys out there would love it.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Soak it in Kerosene. It'll come apart. Keep in mind if it's a manual one, it's worth money. Lots of vintage guys out there would love it.

[uncas]

Hughman...and PMJ...
It is a hand pump...I'll take a pic of it later and post...
Then you all can give me some ideas...
No...don't plan to get rid of it...
It's art if nothin else... :D

[uncas]

Hughman...and PMJ...
It is a hand pump...I'll take a pic of it later and post...
Then you all can give me some ideas...
No...don't plan to get rid of it...
It's art if nothin else... :D

[uncas]

Hughman...and PMJ...
It is a hand pump...I'll take a pic of it later and post...
Then you all can give me some ideas...
No...don't plan to get rid of it...
It's art if nothin else... :D

[uncas]

Here is the pic...sorry for the delay...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid196/p1248ee526bc6677cfd12c06bfd531635/f115c41e.jpg

[uncas]

Here is the pic...sorry for the delay...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid196/p1248ee526bc6677cfd12c06bfd531635/f115c41e.jpg

[uncas]

Here is the pic...sorry for the delay...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid196/p1248ee526bc6677cfd12c06bfd531635/f115c41e.jpg

[pipefitter]

There is cup leathers shaped and premade for deep well ejectors in wells that may fit but those fit inside of 2-3" schedule 40 pipe. There is also cup leathers that are made for the handpumps that sit on wells that can be had.Dont know if those are too big but worth a look.
http://www.deanbennett.com/cylinder_cups.htm

Also maybe the flapper or whatever acts as the check valve in that unit may be adapted.

If you tap those fittings with a hammer and a backup dolly(another hammer) on the opposite side of the fitting before putting the wrenches on it ,it should come right apart.

[ 12-12-2005, 12:21 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[pipefitter]

There is cup leathers shaped and premade for deep well ejectors in wells that may fit but those fit inside of 2-3" schedule 40 pipe. There is also cup leathers that are made for the handpumps that sit on wells that can be had.Dont know if those are too big but worth a look.
http://www.deanbennett.com/cylinder_cups.htm

Also maybe the flapper or whatever acts as the check valve in that unit may be adapted.

If you tap those fittings with a hammer and a backup dolly(another hammer) on the opposite side of the fitting before putting the wrenches on it ,it should come right apart.

[ 12-12-2005, 12:21 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[pipefitter]

There is cup leathers shaped and premade for deep well ejectors in wells that may fit but those fit inside of 2-3" schedule 40 pipe. There is also cup leathers that are made for the handpumps that sit on wells that can be had.Dont know if those are too big but worth a look.
http://www.deanbennett.com/cylinder_cups.htm

Also maybe the flapper or whatever acts as the check valve in that unit may be adapted.

If you tap those fittings with a hammer and a backup dolly(another hammer) on the opposite side of the fitting before putting the wrenches on it ,it should come right apart.

[ 12-12-2005, 12:21 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[uncas]

pipefitter...thanks...I think I'm gonna have to soak it in kero...to get it apart...

[uncas]

pipefitter...thanks...I think I'm gonna have to soak it in kero...to get it apart...

[uncas]

pipefitter...thanks...I think I'm gonna have to soak it in kero...to get it apart...

[pipefitter]

Maybe,but with bronze or brass a "little" impact goes a long way as does heat. Hopefully,the threads were greased before it was assembled. When you do go to reassemble it,would be a good idea to coat the threads with never-seez or some other nickel anti sieze lube.Wouldn't hurt to coat the bore of the pump with a film either. The reason I suggest impact is to keep from the wrenches marring the bronze. That would be a nice looking pump all cleaned up for sure. I actually have bronze pipe wrenches for working on stuff like that. Although I am thinking they were made for working in a gas plant where no sparks were allowed.

[ 12-12-2005, 12:35 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[pipefitter]

Maybe,but with bronze or brass a "little" impact goes a long way as does heat. Hopefully,the threads were greased before it was assembled. When you do go to reassemble it,would be a good idea to coat the threads with never-seez or some other nickel anti sieze lube.Wouldn't hurt to coat the bore of the pump with a film either. The reason I suggest impact is to keep from the wrenches marring the bronze. That would be a nice looking pump all cleaned up for sure. I actually have bronze pipe wrenches for working on stuff like that. Although I am thinking they were made for working in a gas plant where no sparks were allowed.

[ 12-12-2005, 12:35 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[pipefitter]

Maybe,but with bronze or brass a "little" impact goes a long way as does heat. Hopefully,the threads were greased before it was assembled. When you do go to reassemble it,would be a good idea to coat the threads with never-seez or some other nickel anti sieze lube.Wouldn't hurt to coat the bore of the pump with a film either. The reason I suggest impact is to keep from the wrenches marring the bronze. That would be a nice looking pump all cleaned up for sure. I actually have bronze pipe wrenches for working on stuff like that. Although I am thinking they were made for working in a gas plant where no sparks were allowed.

[ 12-12-2005, 12:35 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[uncas]

Good idea...

[uncas]

Good idea...

[uncas]

Good idea...

[Don Kurylko]

Here you go Jamie! I just happen to have an old copy of W-C catalogue 520 that lists your pump. The photo is identical to yours right down to the little L-shaped mounting brackets.

Specs:

5392 Navy Bilge Pump (Bronze)
Dia, barrel, inches - 2 ¾”
Tapped for Pipe, inches – Inlet: 1 ¼”, Outlet: 1 ½”
Overall length – 25 1/8”
Barrel length – 16 3/8”
Brackets drilled for bolt – ¼”
Weight – 10 5/8 lbs

Spare parts: #’s

Cup Leather Valve Ring – PO125-67
Cup Leather Retaining Ring – PO125-75
Cup Leather – PO125-83
Cup Gasket – PO125-91
Plunger Assembly – PO126-33
Piston Rod and Handle Ass’y – PO127-08
Flax Packing – PO127-16
Packing Nut – PO127-40

These parts numbers have the same PO prefix as many of the parts for their heads listed in the catalogue, so it is quite possible that they are still available. The new company that took over W-C may still have some of these old fittings kicking around too, you never know. It would definitely be worth a phone call to see.

Cheers,
Don

[Don Kurylko]

Here you go Jamie! I just happen to have an old copy of W-C catalogue 520 that lists your pump. The photo is identical to yours right down to the little L-shaped mounting brackets.

Specs:

5392 Navy Bilge Pump (Bronze)
Dia, barrel, inches - 2 ¾”
Tapped for Pipe, inches – Inlet: 1 ¼”, Outlet: 1 ½”
Overall length – 25 1/8”
Barrel length – 16 3/8”
Brackets drilled for bolt – ¼”
Weight – 10 5/8 lbs

Spare parts: #’s

Cup Leather Valve Ring – PO125-67
Cup Leather Retaining Ring – PO125-75
Cup Leather – PO125-83
Cup Gasket – PO125-91
Plunger Assembly – PO126-33
Piston Rod and Handle Ass’y – PO127-08
Flax Packing – PO127-16
Packing Nut – PO127-40

These parts numbers have the same PO prefix as many of the parts for their heads listed in the catalogue, so it is quite possible that they are still available. The new company that took over W-C may still have some of these old fittings kicking around too, you never know. It would definitely be worth a phone call to see.

Cheers,
Don

[Don Kurylko]

Here you go Jamie! I just happen to have an old copy of W-C catalogue 520 that lists your pump. The photo is identical to yours right down to the little L-shaped mounting brackets.

Specs:

5392 Navy Bilge Pump (Bronze)
Dia, barrel, inches - 2 ¾”
Tapped for Pipe, inches – Inlet: 1 ¼”, Outlet: 1 ½”
Overall length – 25 1/8”
Barrel length – 16 3/8”
Brackets drilled for bolt – ¼”
Weight – 10 5/8 lbs

Spare parts: #’s

Cup Leather Valve Ring – PO125-67
Cup Leather Retaining Ring – PO125-75
Cup Leather – PO125-83
Cup Gasket – PO125-91
Plunger Assembly – PO126-33
Piston Rod and Handle Ass’y – PO127-08
Flax Packing – PO127-16
Packing Nut – PO127-40

These parts numbers have the same PO prefix as many of the parts for their heads listed in the catalogue, so it is quite possible that they are still available. The new company that took over W-C may still have some of these old fittings kicking around too, you never know. It would definitely be worth a phone call to see.

Cheers,
Don

[uncas]

Don...WOW...Having that old a catelogue...I can't find one from a month ago..
Thanks muchly for this great tidbit of information....I'm gonna save it and then, after the holidays...see if I can get this old thing up and pumping..
Cheers.
jamj

[uncas]

Don...WOW...Having that old a catelogue...I can't find one from a month ago..
Thanks muchly for this great tidbit of information....I'm gonna save it and then, after the holidays...see if I can get this old thing up and pumping..
Cheers.
jamj

[uncas]

Don...WOW...Having that old a catelogue...I can't find one from a month ago..
Thanks muchly for this great tidbit of information....I'm gonna save it and then, after the holidays...see if I can get this old thing up and pumping..
Cheers.
jamj

[Hughman]

Be very careful when applying impacts or leverage!!

DAMHIKT! :eek:

The Perko version of these pumps have a bronze check ball in a cage, which is threaded to the plunger rod. DON'T unscrew the rod, twist clockwise when you get the top cap off. (if the cage is free to spin, you're OK, but they can be gunked up in the cylinder.) It's a pain to re-attach the rod to the cage.

As for the leather, you'll have to sacrifice your belt. Cut a circle to match the old one and grease it well.

Don't forget to pull your pants up, or you'll trip. :D

[Hughman]

Be very careful when applying impacts or leverage!!

DAMHIKT! :eek:

The Perko version of these pumps have a bronze check ball in a cage, which is threaded to the plunger rod. DON'T unscrew the rod, twist clockwise when you get the top cap off. (if the cage is free to spin, you're OK, but they can be gunked up in the cylinder.) It's a pain to re-attach the rod to the cage.

As for the leather, you'll have to sacrifice your belt. Cut a circle to match the old one and grease it well.

Don't forget to pull your pants up, or you'll trip. :D

[Hughman]

Be very careful when applying impacts or leverage!!

DAMHIKT! :eek:

The Perko version of these pumps have a bronze check ball in a cage, which is threaded to the plunger rod. DON'T unscrew the rod, twist clockwise when you get the top cap off. (if the cage is free to spin, you're OK, but they can be gunked up in the cylinder.) It's a pain to re-attach the rod to the cage.

As for the leather, you'll have to sacrifice your belt. Cut a circle to match the old one and grease it well.

Don't forget to pull your pants up, or you'll trip. :D

[uncas]

Now ya guys have me worried...I thought it would be simple to take this pump apart....
Was savin' it until after the holidays...am still savin' it...for a progect...but...now I don't know....

[uncas]

Now ya guys have me worried...I thought it would be simple to take this pump apart....
Was savin' it until after the holidays...am still savin' it...for a progect...but...now I don't know....

[uncas]

Now ya guys have me worried...I thought it would be simple to take this pump apart....
Was savin' it until after the holidays...am still savin' it...for a progect...but...now I don't know....