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View Full Version : Looking for Barefoot Augers



fixmyboat
02-21-2006, 05:08 PM
Anybody still makin them?

fixmyboat
02-21-2006, 05:08 PM
Anybody still makin them?

fixmyboat
02-21-2006, 05:08 PM
Anybody still makin them?

Dave Fleming
02-21-2006, 08:22 PM
Barefoot Augers (http://www.wlfuller.com)

Really not a production item anymore but, Dave Fuller might be able to get one made for you.

Gonna Cost Ya!

Dave Fleming
02-21-2006, 08:22 PM
Barefoot Augers (http://www.wlfuller.com)

Really not a production item anymore but, Dave Fuller might be able to get one made for you.

Gonna Cost Ya!

Dave Fleming
02-21-2006, 08:22 PM
Barefoot Augers (http://www.wlfuller.com)

Really not a production item anymore but, Dave Fuller might be able to get one made for you.

Gonna Cost Ya!

fixmyboat
02-21-2006, 09:21 PM
Can i just grind the screw of a non spurred auger? Could someone post a close up pic of the tip of one? Thnx

fixmyboat
02-21-2006, 09:21 PM
Can i just grind the screw of a non spurred auger? Could someone post a close up pic of the tip of one? Thnx

fixmyboat
02-21-2006, 09:21 PM
Can i just grind the screw of a non spurred auger? Could someone post a close up pic of the tip of one? Thnx

Dave Fleming
02-21-2006, 09:58 PM
In a word NO, there is a difference between the end of a screw tipped auger and a barefoot auger.

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL780/3097474/6292566/130320534.jpg

Dave Fleming
02-21-2006, 09:58 PM
In a word NO, there is a difference between the end of a screw tipped auger and a barefoot auger.

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL780/3097474/6292566/130320534.jpg

Dave Fleming
02-21-2006, 09:58 PM
In a word NO, there is a difference between the end of a screw tipped auger and a barefoot auger.

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL780/3097474/6292566/130320534.jpg

Bob Cleek
02-22-2006, 01:36 PM
Page 68 of the Fuller catalog. Barefoot auger bits in any size you want, but... "price on request." Apparently a special order item.

Bob Cleek
02-22-2006, 01:36 PM
Page 68 of the Fuller catalog. Barefoot auger bits in any size you want, but... "price on request." Apparently a special order item.

Bob Cleek
02-22-2006, 01:36 PM
Page 68 of the Fuller catalog. Barefoot auger bits in any size you want, but... "price on request." Apparently a special order item.

Dave Fleming
02-22-2006, 01:49 PM
Page 68 of the Fuller catalog. Barefoot auger bits in any size you want, but... "price on request." Apparently a special order item. Whud I say? Whud I say? :D :D ;)

Dave Fleming
02-22-2006, 01:49 PM
Page 68 of the Fuller catalog. Barefoot auger bits in any size you want, but... "price on request." Apparently a special order item. Whud I say? Whud I say? :D :D ;)

Dave Fleming
02-22-2006, 01:49 PM
Page 68 of the Fuller catalog. Barefoot auger bits in any size you want, but... "price on request." Apparently a special order item. Whud I say? Whud I say? :D :D ;)

Peter Malcolm Jardine
02-22-2006, 02:26 PM
Dumb question: What is the use for this kind of bit?

Peter Malcolm Jardine
02-22-2006, 02:26 PM
Dumb question: What is the use for this kind of bit?

Peter Malcolm Jardine
02-22-2006, 02:26 PM
Dumb question: What is the use for this kind of bit?

pcford
02-22-2006, 02:27 PM
I'd presume that Hardwicks in Seattle has used ones. Fairly common item.

pcford
02-22-2006, 02:27 PM
I'd presume that Hardwicks in Seattle has used ones. Fairly common item.

pcford
02-22-2006, 02:27 PM
I'd presume that Hardwicks in Seattle has used ones. Fairly common item.

fixmyboat
02-22-2006, 10:04 PM
Thnx for the leads. I sent email to fuller ill report back on prices. Barefoot augers are used to to free hand long holes, the lack of a lead screw or spurs is supposed to keep the bit from wandering. Thnx for the pic....if fuller is too pricey i might still try to grind my own. Hardwicks sound interesting but kinda a long ride from VT tongue.gif This is what i need to drill through

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2109016073&idx=26

[ 02-22-2006, 10:09 PM: Message edited by: fixmyboat ]

fixmyboat
02-22-2006, 10:04 PM
Thnx for the leads. I sent email to fuller ill report back on prices. Barefoot augers are used to to free hand long holes, the lack of a lead screw or spurs is supposed to keep the bit from wandering. Thnx for the pic....if fuller is too pricey i might still try to grind my own. Hardwicks sound interesting but kinda a long ride from VT tongue.gif This is what i need to drill through

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2109016073&idx=26

[ 02-22-2006, 10:09 PM: Message edited by: fixmyboat ]

fixmyboat
02-22-2006, 10:04 PM
Thnx for the leads. I sent email to fuller ill report back on prices. Barefoot augers are used to to free hand long holes, the lack of a lead screw or spurs is supposed to keep the bit from wandering. Thnx for the pic....if fuller is too pricey i might still try to grind my own. Hardwicks sound interesting but kinda a long ride from VT tongue.gif This is what i need to drill through

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2109016073&idx=26

[ 02-22-2006, 10:09 PM: Message edited by: fixmyboat ]

pcford
02-22-2006, 10:12 PM
Hardwicks sound interesting but kinda a long ride from VT [Razz] This is what i need to drill through Hardwicks is as close to heaven as I will ever get. You might try calling them and see if they have the size you need. Pretty much straight shooters.

ps-My great grandfather was from Granville VT

pcford
02-22-2006, 10:12 PM
Hardwicks sound interesting but kinda a long ride from VT [Razz] This is what i need to drill through Hardwicks is as close to heaven as I will ever get. You might try calling them and see if they have the size you need. Pretty much straight shooters.

ps-My great grandfather was from Granville VT

pcford
02-22-2006, 10:12 PM
Hardwicks sound interesting but kinda a long ride from VT [Razz] This is what i need to drill through Hardwicks is as close to heaven as I will ever get. You might try calling them and see if they have the size you need. Pretty much straight shooters.

ps-My great grandfather was from Granville VT

Lulworth
02-23-2006, 01:14 PM
I asked this question here recently too and, as helpful as the answers were, I found that the bottom line is that for an amateur like me the cost per hole (for my project) is too high to use a barefoot auger. When I asked the local guy about barefoot augers and/or specially ground twist-type bits he laughed and said "line up the drill, do a little dance for luck, and if possible drill the sucker from both ends". Which was what some of the advice from here said too so that's what I'll try. I'm still too chicken to do it (and it's too cold to commune long enough with the problem to feel comfortable) but I will have to soon since its beginning to hold up my, albeit glacial, progress.

David

Lulworth
02-23-2006, 01:14 PM
I asked this question here recently too and, as helpful as the answers were, I found that the bottom line is that for an amateur like me the cost per hole (for my project) is too high to use a barefoot auger. When I asked the local guy about barefoot augers and/or specially ground twist-type bits he laughed and said "line up the drill, do a little dance for luck, and if possible drill the sucker from both ends". Which was what some of the advice from here said too so that's what I'll try. I'm still too chicken to do it (and it's too cold to commune long enough with the problem to feel comfortable) but I will have to soon since its beginning to hold up my, albeit glacial, progress.

David

Lulworth
02-23-2006, 01:14 PM
I asked this question here recently too and, as helpful as the answers were, I found that the bottom line is that for an amateur like me the cost per hole (for my project) is too high to use a barefoot auger. When I asked the local guy about barefoot augers and/or specially ground twist-type bits he laughed and said "line up the drill, do a little dance for luck, and if possible drill the sucker from both ends". Which was what some of the advice from here said too so that's what I'll try. I'm still too chicken to do it (and it's too cold to commune long enough with the problem to feel comfortable) but I will have to soon since its beginning to hold up my, albeit glacial, progress.

David

AHall
02-24-2006, 06:51 PM
I bought an inexpensive 1/2 screw pointed auger from Gizzley, and ground off the screw. You need to start the hole with a spade bit or something, then switch to the screwless auger. Without the screw pulling the bit into the work, you really have to push on her.

Draw a line across the work, and attack from both ends. if they aren't quite in the same plane, it will prevent the drift from backing out (grin)

good luck,
Andy

AHall
02-24-2006, 06:51 PM
I bought an inexpensive 1/2 screw pointed auger from Gizzley, and ground off the screw. You need to start the hole with a spade bit or something, then switch to the screwless auger. Without the screw pulling the bit into the work, you really have to push on her.

Draw a line across the work, and attack from both ends. if they aren't quite in the same plane, it will prevent the drift from backing out (grin)

good luck,
Andy

AHall
02-24-2006, 06:51 PM
I bought an inexpensive 1/2 screw pointed auger from Gizzley, and ground off the screw. You need to start the hole with a spade bit or something, then switch to the screwless auger. Without the screw pulling the bit into the work, you really have to push on her.

Draw a line across the work, and attack from both ends. if they aren't quite in the same plane, it will prevent the drift from backing out (grin)

good luck,
Andy

fixmyboat
02-24-2006, 08:01 PM
Ive been hashing it over with the boys at work and the currrent plan is to lug the ballast into the garage. Clamp it to the keel. Get the local machinist to weld 20" of 7/8" cold rolled steel to to a 12" 15/16" worm Auger. Weld a 1/2 stud onto that to fit in the big drills chuck and run it straight throught the ballast and keel/deadwoods. Ill test out the the grinding trick on a smaller auger first but that could be an option. Any tips? Feed back is appreciatied.
Thnx

fixmyboat
02-24-2006, 08:01 PM
Ive been hashing it over with the boys at work and the currrent plan is to lug the ballast into the garage. Clamp it to the keel. Get the local machinist to weld 20" of 7/8" cold rolled steel to to a 12" 15/16" worm Auger. Weld a 1/2 stud onto that to fit in the big drills chuck and run it straight throught the ballast and keel/deadwoods. Ill test out the the grinding trick on a smaller auger first but that could be an option. Any tips? Feed back is appreciatied.
Thnx

fixmyboat
02-24-2006, 08:01 PM
Ive been hashing it over with the boys at work and the currrent plan is to lug the ballast into the garage. Clamp it to the keel. Get the local machinist to weld 20" of 7/8" cold rolled steel to to a 12" 15/16" worm Auger. Weld a 1/2 stud onto that to fit in the big drills chuck and run it straight throught the ballast and keel/deadwoods. Ill test out the the grinding trick on a smaller auger first but that could be an option. Any tips? Feed back is appreciatied.
Thnx

Canoeyawl
02-24-2006, 09:53 PM
I have a 13/16 barefoot auger five feet long, it will make close to a 7/8 hole.
You can have it if you want to pay shipping. I’m in California. Specify the size of the driven end you need… I/2”?

Canoeyawl
02-24-2006, 09:53 PM
I have a 13/16 barefoot auger five feet long, it will make close to a 7/8 hole.
You can have it if you want to pay shipping. I’m in California. Specify the size of the driven end you need… I/2”?

Canoeyawl
02-24-2006, 09:53 PM
I have a 13/16 barefoot auger five feet long, it will make close to a 7/8 hole.
You can have it if you want to pay shipping. I’m in California. Specify the size of the driven end you need… I/2”?

fixmyboat
02-24-2006, 10:14 PM
Wow thnx! This is my first big boat and scrounging up the tools has been daunting. I live in VT....contact me a el_flaco41@yahoo.com
Heres a link to some images of the project so far for those who are interested. smile.gif 1/2" would be fine. I could borrow a bigger drill if needed.

Her name is Phoenix 26' LOA
Palmer Scott/B.T. Dobson
Mahog. on Oak
Iron ballasted
1940ish

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=21 09016073 (http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2109016073)

[ 02-24-2006, 10:17 PM: Message edited by: fixmyboat ]

fixmyboat
02-24-2006, 10:14 PM
Wow thnx! This is my first big boat and scrounging up the tools has been daunting. I live in VT....contact me a el_flaco41@yahoo.com
Heres a link to some images of the project so far for those who are interested. smile.gif 1/2" would be fine. I could borrow a bigger drill if needed.

Her name is Phoenix 26' LOA
Palmer Scott/B.T. Dobson
Mahog. on Oak
Iron ballasted
1940ish

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=21 09016073 (http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2109016073)

[ 02-24-2006, 10:17 PM: Message edited by: fixmyboat ]

fixmyboat
02-24-2006, 10:14 PM
Wow thnx! This is my first big boat and scrounging up the tools has been daunting. I live in VT....contact me a el_flaco41@yahoo.com
Heres a link to some images of the project so far for those who are interested. smile.gif 1/2" would be fine. I could borrow a bigger drill if needed.

Her name is Phoenix 26' LOA
Palmer Scott/B.T. Dobson
Mahog. on Oak
Iron ballasted
1940ish

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=21 09016073 (http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2109016073)

[ 02-24-2006, 10:17 PM: Message edited by: fixmyboat ]

Farmer Diddley
02-25-2006, 09:35 AM
She's a beauty. Good luck with the restoration. I too live in VT. I live in St Albans, work in South Burlington. Give me a holler if you ever need an extra hand. Will you be sailing her on Lake Champlain?

Farmer Diddley
02-25-2006, 09:35 AM
She's a beauty. Good luck with the restoration. I too live in VT. I live in St Albans, work in South Burlington. Give me a holler if you ever need an extra hand. Will you be sailing her on Lake Champlain?

Farmer Diddley
02-25-2006, 09:35 AM
She's a beauty. Good luck with the restoration. I too live in VT. I live in St Albans, work in South Burlington. Give me a holler if you ever need an extra hand. Will you be sailing her on Lake Champlain?

Canoeyawl
02-25-2006, 10:26 AM
Mail sent...

Canoeyawl
02-25-2006, 10:26 AM
Mail sent...

Canoeyawl
02-25-2006, 10:26 AM
Mail sent...

fixmyboat
02-26-2006, 08:39 AM
Farmer D you got a private message

fixmyboat
02-26-2006, 08:39 AM
Farmer D you got a private message

fixmyboat
02-26-2006, 08:39 AM
Farmer D you got a private message

WFK
02-26-2006, 07:38 PM
Originally posted by pcford:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Hardwicks sound interesting but kinda a long ride from VT [Razz] This is what i need to drill through Hardwicks is as close to heaven as I will ever get. You might try calling them and see if they have the size you need. Pretty much straight shooters.

ps-My great grandfather was from Granville VT</font>[/QUOTE]The place is truley one of a kind!!!
http://www.ehardwicks.com/

WFK
02-26-2006, 07:38 PM
Originally posted by pcford:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Hardwicks sound interesting but kinda a long ride from VT [Razz] This is what i need to drill through Hardwicks is as close to heaven as I will ever get. You might try calling them and see if they have the size you need. Pretty much straight shooters.

ps-My great grandfather was from Granville VT</font>[/QUOTE]The place is truley one of a kind!!!
http://www.ehardwicks.com/

WFK
02-26-2006, 07:38 PM
Originally posted by pcford:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Hardwicks sound interesting but kinda a long ride from VT [Razz] This is what i need to drill through Hardwicks is as close to heaven as I will ever get. You might try calling them and see if they have the size you need. Pretty much straight shooters.

ps-My great grandfather was from Granville VT</font>[/QUOTE]The place is truley one of a kind!!!
http://www.ehardwicks.com/

Dale R. Hamilton
02-28-2006, 11:37 AM
hey guys- I need one too. I machined an old 1" driveshaft to fit a 1/2" chuck on one end and hols an 1 1/4" auger bit in the other. But now I can't find a barefoot auger that size.

Dale R. Hamilton
02-28-2006, 11:37 AM
hey guys- I need one too. I machined an old 1" driveshaft to fit a 1/2" chuck on one end and hols an 1 1/4" auger bit in the other. But now I can't find a barefoot auger that size.

Dale R. Hamilton
02-28-2006, 11:37 AM
hey guys- I need one too. I machined an old 1" driveshaft to fit a 1/2" chuck on one end and hols an 1 1/4" auger bit in the other. But now I can't find a barefoot auger that size.

Canoeyawl
02-28-2006, 01:10 PM
Irwin makes 18” long "ship auger" bits - these have a pilot screw that can be cut off and the bit can be filed (sharpened) to become a "barefoot auger" for working end grain. The rake must be reduced and the side lip removed. I have a couple of the Irwin bits here and some "barefoot" and on comparison it looks like it could be done successfully. I have not tried it. The Irwin’s are available up to 1-1/2"
Irwin... (http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100113)

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/images/large/47316_lg.jpg

Canoeyawl
02-28-2006, 01:10 PM
Irwin makes 18” long "ship auger" bits - these have a pilot screw that can be cut off and the bit can be filed (sharpened) to become a "barefoot auger" for working end grain. The rake must be reduced and the side lip removed. I have a couple of the Irwin bits here and some "barefoot" and on comparison it looks like it could be done successfully. I have not tried it. The Irwin’s are available up to 1-1/2"
Irwin... (http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100113)

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/images/large/47316_lg.jpg

Canoeyawl
02-28-2006, 01:10 PM
Irwin makes 18” long "ship auger" bits - these have a pilot screw that can be cut off and the bit can be filed (sharpened) to become a "barefoot auger" for working end grain. The rake must be reduced and the side lip removed. I have a couple of the Irwin bits here and some "barefoot" and on comparison it looks like it could be done successfully. I have not tried it. The Irwin’s are available up to 1-1/2"
Irwin... (http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100113)

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/images/large/47316_lg.jpg

Andrew
03-01-2006, 02:32 PM
You might try
http://www.jonesport-wood.com/jwLibToolPhoto1.html
They're a used tool place that sells at used tool prices instead of antique prices. A fun place to spend an hour or two.

[ 03-01-2006, 02:34 PM: Message edited by: Andrew ]

Andrew
03-01-2006, 02:32 PM
You might try
http://www.jonesport-wood.com/jwLibToolPhoto1.html
They're a used tool place that sells at used tool prices instead of antique prices. A fun place to spend an hour or two.

[ 03-01-2006, 02:34 PM: Message edited by: Andrew ]

Andrew
03-01-2006, 02:32 PM
You might try
http://www.jonesport-wood.com/jwLibToolPhoto1.html
They're a used tool place that sells at used tool prices instead of antique prices. A fun place to spend an hour or two.

[ 03-01-2006, 02:34 PM: Message edited by: Andrew ]

fixmyboat
03-03-2006, 05:27 PM
Ok finally got in contact with Fuller and there making my new 7/8" Barefoot Ships auger now. :D
$38.50 for the auger.....The boys at the metal shop said its gonna be $20.00 or so to get it lengthned by 30". Definatly not cheap but I figure its better not to skimp and try to rig somthing for such a big job.

So the plan is to flip the keel over. Stand the ballast up on top of it in the correct position. Start a 7/8" pilot holes with a spade bit in a shank extender (how deep?) Bore the middle two holes as they are clear of the other timbers. Temp bolt it and roll her back over. Stack and Aliagn the rest of the timbers. Clamp the begeezus out of it and lay the whole mess on its side. Bore up through the ballast for the rest of the holes.
Anybody ever done anything like this before? Any advice on barefoot augers and long boring in general?
Thnx

fixmyboat
03-03-2006, 05:27 PM
Ok finally got in contact with Fuller and there making my new 7/8" Barefoot Ships auger now. :D
$38.50 for the auger.....The boys at the metal shop said its gonna be $20.00 or so to get it lengthned by 30". Definatly not cheap but I figure its better not to skimp and try to rig somthing for such a big job.

So the plan is to flip the keel over. Stand the ballast up on top of it in the correct position. Start a 7/8" pilot holes with a spade bit in a shank extender (how deep?) Bore the middle two holes as they are clear of the other timbers. Temp bolt it and roll her back over. Stack and Aliagn the rest of the timbers. Clamp the begeezus out of it and lay the whole mess on its side. Bore up through the ballast for the rest of the holes.
Anybody ever done anything like this before? Any advice on barefoot augers and long boring in general?
Thnx

fixmyboat
03-03-2006, 05:27 PM
Ok finally got in contact with Fuller and there making my new 7/8" Barefoot Ships auger now. :D
$38.50 for the auger.....The boys at the metal shop said its gonna be $20.00 or so to get it lengthned by 30". Definatly not cheap but I figure its better not to skimp and try to rig somthing for such a big job.

So the plan is to flip the keel over. Stand the ballast up on top of it in the correct position. Start a 7/8" pilot holes with a spade bit in a shank extender (how deep?) Bore the middle two holes as they are clear of the other timbers. Temp bolt it and roll her back over. Stack and Aliagn the rest of the timbers. Clamp the begeezus out of it and lay the whole mess on its side. Bore up through the ballast for the rest of the holes.
Anybody ever done anything like this before? Any advice on barefoot augers and long boring in general?
Thnx

Dave Fleming
03-03-2006, 07:27 PM
Read the B&R FAQ!

Get a Multi Spur Bit from Dave Fuller instead of using a 'yech' spade bit too!

Dave Fleming
03-03-2006, 07:27 PM
Read the B&R FAQ!

Get a Multi Spur Bit from Dave Fuller instead of using a 'yech' spade bit too!

Dave Fleming
03-03-2006, 07:27 PM
Read the B&R FAQ!

Get a Multi Spur Bit from Dave Fuller instead of using a 'yech' spade bit too!

Canoeyawl
03-04-2006, 01:21 PM
Maybe I’m not reading this correctly, but are you drilling for keel bolts and deadwood assembly? This would not be the best use for a “barefoot auger.” They are bare-foot to keep from following the grain when working end grain (a shaft log for example). They are also sharpened differently, much less aggressive; end grain is tough. My opinion is with a normal keel bolt and deadwood assembly (cross grain) a standard ship-auger will work best.

Canoeyawl
03-04-2006, 01:21 PM
Maybe I’m not reading this correctly, but are you drilling for keel bolts and deadwood assembly? This would not be the best use for a “barefoot auger.” They are bare-foot to keep from following the grain when working end grain (a shaft log for example). They are also sharpened differently, much less aggressive; end grain is tough. My opinion is with a normal keel bolt and deadwood assembly (cross grain) a standard ship-auger will work best.

Canoeyawl
03-04-2006, 01:21 PM
Maybe I’m not reading this correctly, but are you drilling for keel bolts and deadwood assembly? This would not be the best use for a “barefoot auger.” They are bare-foot to keep from following the grain when working end grain (a shaft log for example). They are also sharpened differently, much less aggressive; end grain is tough. My opinion is with a normal keel bolt and deadwood assembly (cross grain) a standard ship-auger will work best.

Dave Fleming
03-04-2006, 01:46 PM
Canoe, are you saying that the only use for barefoot augers is in end grain boring?

No argument that they are ideal for such work but...

We used them also for cross grain boring also ie: deadwood timbers, etc..

Locate the spot for the fastener, make an "X" with your trusty 1 inch butt chisel and start boring.

IMOOP, if you use a screw tipped auger in a goodly sized stacked deadwood you risk the chance of that auger coming out the side as the screw follows the changing grain from piece to piece.

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL780/3097474/6299287/80940363.jpg

Edited fer spellin'

[ 03-04-2006, 02:40 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

Dave Fleming
03-04-2006, 01:46 PM
Canoe, are you saying that the only use for barefoot augers is in end grain boring?

No argument that they are ideal for such work but...

We used them also for cross grain boring also ie: deadwood timbers, etc..

Locate the spot for the fastener, make an "X" with your trusty 1 inch butt chisel and start boring.

IMOOP, if you use a screw tipped auger in a goodly sized stacked deadwood you risk the chance of that auger coming out the side as the screw follows the changing grain from piece to piece.

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL780/3097474/6299287/80940363.jpg

Edited fer spellin'

[ 03-04-2006, 02:40 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

Dave Fleming
03-04-2006, 01:46 PM
Canoe, are you saying that the only use for barefoot augers is in end grain boring?

No argument that they are ideal for such work but...

We used them also for cross grain boring also ie: deadwood timbers, etc..

Locate the spot for the fastener, make an "X" with your trusty 1 inch butt chisel and start boring.

IMOOP, if you use a screw tipped auger in a goodly sized stacked deadwood you risk the chance of that auger coming out the side as the screw follows the changing grain from piece to piece.

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL780/3097474/6299287/80940363.jpg

Edited fer spellin'

[ 03-04-2006, 02:40 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

Canoeyawl
03-04-2006, 02:29 PM
Dave I was hoping you would respond here and I defer to your experience and judgment.
Every job is different. I have only done a few deadwood assemblies and these were only small yachts with the longest borings not much over three feet. The bare-foot augers did not work well for me in this application (flat grain or ¼ sawn).
In the end I chose extended twist drills with a visual guide (a plumb bob!) this worked best for me… I think the method of extending the bit may be most critical here.

Canoeyawl
03-04-2006, 02:29 PM
Dave I was hoping you would respond here and I defer to your experience and judgment.
Every job is different. I have only done a few deadwood assemblies and these were only small yachts with the longest borings not much over three feet. The bare-foot augers did not work well for me in this application (flat grain or ¼ sawn).
In the end I chose extended twist drills with a visual guide (a plumb bob!) this worked best for me… I think the method of extending the bit may be most critical here.

Canoeyawl
03-04-2006, 02:29 PM
Dave I was hoping you would respond here and I defer to your experience and judgment.
Every job is different. I have only done a few deadwood assemblies and these were only small yachts with the longest borings not much over three feet. The bare-foot augers did not work well for me in this application (flat grain or ¼ sawn).
In the end I chose extended twist drills with a visual guide (a plumb bob!) this worked best for me… I think the method of extending the bit may be most critical here.

Dave Fleming
03-04-2006, 02:38 PM
Canoe, the two methods of adding length to any auger that I am familiar with are brazing and welding with Eutetic welding rod.

I hear that TIG welding is becoming quite popular these days.

If you are going to use a screw tipped auger, one trick we used was the file off one quadrant of the worm threads. The screw will still draw but there is less effort to withdraw to clear chips ( very important no matter what type of auger one is using ). it is also less agressive which can be a big help in some situations.

'nuther Edit fer spellin', sigh

[ 03-04-2006, 02:40 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

Dave Fleming
03-04-2006, 02:38 PM
Canoe, the two methods of adding length to any auger that I am familiar with are brazing and welding with Eutetic welding rod.

I hear that TIG welding is becoming quite popular these days.

If you are going to use a screw tipped auger, one trick we used was the file off one quadrant of the worm threads. The screw will still draw but there is less effort to withdraw to clear chips ( very important no matter what type of auger one is using ). it is also less agressive which can be a big help in some situations.

'nuther Edit fer spellin', sigh

[ 03-04-2006, 02:40 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

Dave Fleming
03-04-2006, 02:38 PM
Canoe, the two methods of adding length to any auger that I am familiar with are brazing and welding with Eutetic welding rod.

I hear that TIG welding is becoming quite popular these days.

If you are going to use a screw tipped auger, one trick we used was the file off one quadrant of the worm threads. The screw will still draw but there is less effort to withdraw to clear chips ( very important no matter what type of auger one is using ). it is also less agressive which can be a big help in some situations.

'nuther Edit fer spellin', sigh

[ 03-04-2006, 02:40 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

Canoeyawl
03-04-2006, 08:01 PM
After a few ugly failures I gave up welding drill bits as a gamble; welding high-speed or unknown steel can be tricky.
Now I machine a threaded shank with a seat and shoulder on the end of the drill bit, and insert it into a bored and tapped hole (.000 fit) in the extension (same size bar stock) This insures perfect concentricity and a straight hole every time for me... a good job for an engine lathe. I make them up as needed and have a small selection now. More Pics (http://www.gunkholing.org/drillbit.htm)

http://www.gunkholing.org/images/drill1rs.jpg

Canoeyawl
03-04-2006, 08:01 PM
After a few ugly failures I gave up welding drill bits as a gamble; welding high-speed or unknown steel can be tricky.
Now I machine a threaded shank with a seat and shoulder on the end of the drill bit, and insert it into a bored and tapped hole (.000 fit) in the extension (same size bar stock) This insures perfect concentricity and a straight hole every time for me... a good job for an engine lathe. I make them up as needed and have a small selection now. More Pics (http://www.gunkholing.org/drillbit.htm)

http://www.gunkholing.org/images/drill1rs.jpg

Canoeyawl
03-04-2006, 08:01 PM
After a few ugly failures I gave up welding drill bits as a gamble; welding high-speed or unknown steel can be tricky.
Now I machine a threaded shank with a seat and shoulder on the end of the drill bit, and insert it into a bored and tapped hole (.000 fit) in the extension (same size bar stock) This insures perfect concentricity and a straight hole every time for me... a good job for an engine lathe. I make them up as needed and have a small selection now. More Pics (http://www.gunkholing.org/drillbit.htm)

http://www.gunkholing.org/images/drill1rs.jpg

Dave Fleming
03-04-2006, 09:35 PM
Canoe, NEAT!

Dave Fleming
03-04-2006, 09:35 PM
Canoe, NEAT!

Dave Fleming
03-04-2006, 09:35 PM
Canoe, NEAT!

fixmyboat
03-05-2006, 09:43 PM
Wow now thats a sweet bit..... :eek: Im starting a new post in B/R input is welcome as always

Thnx

fixmyboat
03-05-2006, 09:43 PM
Wow now thats a sweet bit..... :eek: Im starting a new post in B/R input is welcome as always

Thnx

fixmyboat
03-05-2006, 09:43 PM
Wow now thats a sweet bit..... :eek: Im starting a new post in B/R input is welcome as always

Thnx