Vacuum Metalizing

[jeff pierce]

Anyone know of a place where I can get two small plastic parts vacuum metalized?
My outboard motor cowling has a clear plastic "Evinrude" name badge on each side that I'm told is
vacuum metalized in a gold color on the back side (so that you look through the clear
material and see the reflective surface applied, like a mirror). This finish is deteriorated
and needs to be redone.

See illustration below:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid29/pe3ca7381d2e990ee8243b37c87fa10f6/fd5a9eb3.jpg

[jeff pierce]

Anyone know of a place where I can get two small plastic parts vacuum metalized?
My outboard motor cowling has a clear plastic "Evinrude" name badge on each side that I'm told is
vacuum metalized in a gold color on the back side (so that you look through the clear
material and see the reflective surface applied, like a mirror). This finish is deteriorated
and needs to be redone.

See illustration below:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid29/pe3ca7381d2e990ee8243b37c87fa10f6/fd5a9eb3.jpg

[jeff pierce]

Anyone know of a place where I can get two small plastic parts vacuum metalized?
My outboard motor cowling has a clear plastic "Evinrude" name badge on each side that I'm told is
vacuum metalized in a gold color on the back side (so that you look through the clear
material and see the reflective surface applied, like a mirror). This finish is deteriorated
and needs to be redone.

See illustration below:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid29/pe3ca7381d2e990ee8243b37c87fa10f6/fd5a9eb3.jpg

[Popeye]

can't suggest a good place offhand .

if you do get it done, great, but would also consider two other alternatives. they are: getting vinyl gold lettering and applying to plastic (after cleaning off old lettering of course).

or if you really want to sputter some gold, you can do it yourself! try "Scientific American", amateur scientist for the answer. if no luck, will advise.

cheers.

[Popeye]

can't suggest a good place offhand .

if you do get it done, great, but would also consider two other alternatives. they are: getting vinyl gold lettering and applying to plastic (after cleaning off old lettering of course).

or if you really want to sputter some gold, you can do it yourself! try "Scientific American", amateur scientist for the answer. if no luck, will advise.

cheers.

[Popeye]

can't suggest a good place offhand .

if you do get it done, great, but would also consider two other alternatives. they are: getting vinyl gold lettering and applying to plastic (after cleaning off old lettering of course).

or if you really want to sputter some gold, you can do it yourself! try "Scientific American", amateur scientist for the answer. if no luck, will advise.

cheers.

[Paul Scheuer]

I believe that vacuum metalization is a production technique with associated tooling that can only pay off in high volume. Sort of like integrtated circuit technology. The effects are stunning, but not very durable. Maybe the antique guys have a pipeline, but I doubt that the costs will be attractive. You might be able to do nearly as well with gold leaf application to the back surface. I don't think you can get there with spray paint, but you might experiment with some scrap plastic.

[Paul Scheuer]

I believe that vacuum metalization is a production technique with associated tooling that can only pay off in high volume. Sort of like integrtated circuit technology. The effects are stunning, but not very durable. Maybe the antique guys have a pipeline, but I doubt that the costs will be attractive. You might be able to do nearly as well with gold leaf application to the back surface. I don't think you can get there with spray paint, but you might experiment with some scrap plastic.

[Paul Scheuer]

I believe that vacuum metalization is a production technique with associated tooling that can only pay off in high volume. Sort of like integrtated circuit technology. The effects are stunning, but not very durable. Maybe the antique guys have a pipeline, but I doubt that the costs will be attractive. You might be able to do nearly as well with gold leaf application to the back surface. I don't think you can get there with spray paint, but you might experiment with some scrap plastic.

[jeff pierce]

Luckily, I do have a spare set of the badges (a little cracked) to experiment on.

[jeff pierce]

Luckily, I do have a spare set of the badges (a little cracked) to experiment on.

[jeff pierce]

Luckily, I do have a spare set of the badges (a little cracked) to experiment on.

[ion barnes]

Try a trophy shop. Some make plaques as you describe, or can advise where to call. Ion

[ion barnes]

Try a trophy shop. Some make plaques as you describe, or can advise where to call. Ion

[ion barnes]

Try a trophy shop. Some make plaques as you describe, or can advise where to call. Ion

[MarkC]

Cracker outboard! Are you going to put it on something like a 'Rascal' run-about?

Have you re-built the engine? Were parts forth-coming? How much it all cost? Where did you find it? etc, etc, etc.

[MarkC]

Cracker outboard! Are you going to put it on something like a 'Rascal' run-about?

Have you re-built the engine? Were parts forth-coming? How much it all cost? Where did you find it? etc, etc, etc.

[MarkC]

Cracker outboard! Are you going to put it on something like a 'Rascal' run-about?

Have you re-built the engine? Were parts forth-coming? How much it all cost? Where did you find it? etc, etc, etc.

[jeff pierce]

Thanks for the replies.

Mark,

The motor is a 1959 Evinrude Lark, 35HP. I am planning to put it on my Glen-L "Malahini" that is under construction. (See "Progress photos - Windshield Installed" thread in Building and Repair section)

As of yet, I haven't paid anything. It was given to me to "try out" by a coworker, who's late father was the original owner. If it works out for me, we will negotiate for some money to change hands. I have not done any work on it yet. I was told that it ran without any problems up to about 3 years ago, then was put into storage. It was prepped for storage in accordance with the Evinrude service manual. I was also told that it had a new water pump installed back around the time it was last used. The motor turns freely and appears to have good compression. Thus, I have high hopes that it is still mechanically sound.

I am looking to have a local mechanic who specializes in reconditioning outboards go through it, tune it up, etc. I am not a great mechanic myself. There appears to be a number of online sources for salvage and aftermarket parts for these. I sent out a request to five or six places yesterday for the complete wiring harness and electrical junction box that came with this motor. Thus far I got one reply saying they had the parts in stock for $150. I have also located a source for paint to match the original on the cowling (although I am considering switching to the "polychromatic blue" used on the 1958 and earlier versions)

Thanks for the interest.

[jeff pierce]

Thanks for the replies.

Mark,

The motor is a 1959 Evinrude Lark, 35HP. I am planning to put it on my Glen-L "Malahini" that is under construction. (See "Progress photos - Windshield Installed" thread in Building and Repair section)

As of yet, I haven't paid anything. It was given to me to "try out" by a coworker, who's late father was the original owner. If it works out for me, we will negotiate for some money to change hands. I have not done any work on it yet. I was told that it ran without any problems up to about 3 years ago, then was put into storage. It was prepped for storage in accordance with the Evinrude service manual. I was also told that it had a new water pump installed back around the time it was last used. The motor turns freely and appears to have good compression. Thus, I have high hopes that it is still mechanically sound.

I am looking to have a local mechanic who specializes in reconditioning outboards go through it, tune it up, etc. I am not a great mechanic myself. There appears to be a number of online sources for salvage and aftermarket parts for these. I sent out a request to five or six places yesterday for the complete wiring harness and electrical junction box that came with this motor. Thus far I got one reply saying they had the parts in stock for $150. I have also located a source for paint to match the original on the cowling (although I am considering switching to the "polychromatic blue" used on the 1958 and earlier versions)

Thanks for the interest.

[jeff pierce]

Thanks for the replies.

Mark,

The motor is a 1959 Evinrude Lark, 35HP. I am planning to put it on my Glen-L "Malahini" that is under construction. (See "Progress photos - Windshield Installed" thread in Building and Repair section)

As of yet, I haven't paid anything. It was given to me to "try out" by a coworker, who's late father was the original owner. If it works out for me, we will negotiate for some money to change hands. I have not done any work on it yet. I was told that it ran without any problems up to about 3 years ago, then was put into storage. It was prepped for storage in accordance with the Evinrude service manual. I was also told that it had a new water pump installed back around the time it was last used. The motor turns freely and appears to have good compression. Thus, I have high hopes that it is still mechanically sound.

I am looking to have a local mechanic who specializes in reconditioning outboards go through it, tune it up, etc. I am not a great mechanic myself. There appears to be a number of online sources for salvage and aftermarket parts for these. I sent out a request to five or six places yesterday for the complete wiring harness and electrical junction box that came with this motor. Thus far I got one reply saying they had the parts in stock for $150. I have also located a source for paint to match the original on the cowling (although I am considering switching to the "polychromatic blue" used on the 1958 and earlier versions)

Thanks for the interest.

[Ed Harrow]

Jeff, another thought. Take a look at Hemmings Motor News. There may well be operations that advertise in there, who specialize in custom one-off work. Might be better than my other suggestion.

[Ed Harrow]

Jeff, another thought. Take a look at Hemmings Motor News. There may well be operations that advertise in there, who specialize in custom one-off work. Might be better than my other suggestion.

[Ed Harrow]

Jeff, another thought. Take a look at Hemmings Motor News. There may well be operations that advertise in there, who specialize in custom one-off work. Might be better than my other suggestion.

[MarkC]

IMHO this motor makes the boat something special. I mean that nicely. Looking at the Rascals and such that have new motors seems to jar a bit.

Its worth every cent looks wise. (but yeah, I'm not paying)...

As I found with me and me mates restoring 1950/60 motor scooters, even when there are no parts available, it CAN be done - dont let anyone tell you that it cant.

As with most restorations of older motors = new pistons, rings and a re-bore, replace ALL bearings and seals - and as you have said, the wiring. I found this must be done - old parts have a habit of looking OK and then destructing under load later on.

As for the painting? - we painted our scooters using Acrylic, the spray gun attachment to the Electrolux vacumm cleaner, and plenty of sand-paper. Enamel with salt water is probably better, if the motor mechanic isnt up to it, track down some of the old-car timers and tell them you love the motor. They will understand and probably help (usually have great workshops).

Sorry... I cant help with the badge...

[ 10-02-2003, 11:55 AM: Message edited by: MarkC ]

[MarkC]

IMHO this motor makes the boat something special. I mean that nicely. Looking at the Rascals and such that have new motors seems to jar a bit.

Its worth every cent looks wise. (but yeah, I'm not paying)...

As I found with me and me mates restoring 1950/60 motor scooters, even when there are no parts available, it CAN be done - dont let anyone tell you that it cant.

As with most restorations of older motors = new pistons, rings and a re-bore, replace ALL bearings and seals - and as you have said, the wiring. I found this must be done - old parts have a habit of looking OK and then destructing under load later on.

As for the painting? - we painted our scooters using Acrylic, the spray gun attachment to the Electrolux vacumm cleaner, and plenty of sand-paper. Enamel with salt water is probably better, if the motor mechanic isnt up to it, track down some of the old-car timers and tell them you love the motor. They will understand and probably help (usually have great workshops).

Sorry... I cant help with the badge...

[ 10-02-2003, 11:55 AM: Message edited by: MarkC ]

[MarkC]

IMHO this motor makes the boat something special. I mean that nicely. Looking at the Rascals and such that have new motors seems to jar a bit.

Its worth every cent looks wise. (but yeah, I'm not paying)...

As I found with me and me mates restoring 1950/60 motor scooters, even when there are no parts available, it CAN be done - dont let anyone tell you that it cant.

As with most restorations of older motors = new pistons, rings and a re-bore, replace ALL bearings and seals - and as you have said, the wiring. I found this must be done - old parts have a habit of looking OK and then destructing under load later on.

As for the painting? - we painted our scooters using Acrylic, the spray gun attachment to the Electrolux vacumm cleaner, and plenty of sand-paper. Enamel with salt water is probably better, if the motor mechanic isnt up to it, track down some of the old-car timers and tell them you love the motor. They will understand and probably help (usually have great workshops).

Sorry... I cant help with the badge...

[ 10-02-2003, 11:55 AM: Message edited by: MarkC ]

[nedL]

Very nice Jeff. They will make a real nice matched set when you are done. smile.gif

[nedL]

Very nice Jeff. They will make a real nice matched set when you are done. smile.gif

[nedL]

Very nice Jeff. They will make a real nice matched set when you are done. smile.gif