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View Full Version : Advice for finishing up a Devlin Dipper 17



Chaps
03-02-2015, 09:47 PM
I have a been building a Devlin Dipper 17 and made some modifications to the pilot house on my plans. I pulled in the port and starboard portions of the pilot house trunk about 3 inches and pushed out the house three inches on either side. So I now have straight bulkheads, roof to deck, a walk around deck (without walking on the trunk). I now also has room to add bulwarks to the bow.

I am posting a picture of the photoshopping I did to a scan of the profile page of my plans. I colored it in so I could get an idea of my final product. If you are wondering what I am talking about compare my picture to the Dipper 17 on Sam Devin's website.

Suggestions on what to use for the tongue and grove lath on the sides and under the front windows?

I am wondering how many people would cover the outer bulkheads of the pilot house with Dynell Polyester? Or since I am covering the lower 1088 on the pilot hose with lath, should I just saturate the upper part with my epoxy? The hull already covered and the decks, and roof will get dynell polyester, two layers for sure due to a high degree of abrasive traffic.

Thanks in advance for the feedback.

Chaps'

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8581/16513511030_e10c84408a_d.jpg

Todd Bradshaw
03-02-2015, 10:44 PM
You actually think you're going to wear through a single layer of Dynel with foot traffic? Maybe if you usually wear crampons aboard the boat........

Chaps
03-02-2015, 11:24 PM
I hope not! No idea how it wears, just following the advice in Devlin's book. But he does not mention the exterior bulkheads. Any advice on that part

Chaps
03-03-2015, 12:03 AM
Actually, I checked Sam's book and I guess it is two on the hull and one layer on decks and roof. But I do not see exterior bulkheads mentioned. Also, still looking for advice on what to use for the TnG under the windows.

Todd Bradshaw
03-03-2015, 02:22 AM
Considering how hard you would need to sand it to get through, two layers seems like way overkill anywhere other than the part that might hit bottom. I can't see where it would add much of anything to a bulkhead other than expense and weight. Dynel and Xynole expand when saturated and tend to soak up a lot of resin in the process. Weight and resin cost should always be a consideration when using them. They add considerably less structural rigidity than fiberglass, but are more abrasion resistant by a fair amount, and can to a limited extent flex/stretch a bit more without fracturing - but don't equate this with having high tenacity (ability to stretch and come back to normal) because the coming back part isn't going to happen. Whether they are the right fabrics for a particular job would depend on the need for these characteristics vs. the significance (or not) of the weight and cost increases.

Call me old fashioned (I'm really not) but I would think a decently constructed pilot house with just good paint and primer on its sides should hold up pretty well. Maybe a base coat of CPES if you want to include something containing epoxy to the mix as a base, but covering the sides with any sort of epoxy/fabric combo seems like an awful lot of work that probably isn't needed and will make minimal improvements in the structural integrity of the area.

Thorne
03-03-2015, 10:03 AM
Where do you live (Alaska or the Equator?) and what sort of use and storage do you plan for this boat?

Here's how to post photos on this forum:


FIRST - Don't attach photos. Only a tiny version will display.


SECOND - Post the photos on the web. Use your own website or a free image hosting service like www.flickr.com (http://www.flickr.com/), picasaweb.google.com, picturetrail, photobucket, shutterfly, etc. Facebook is not recommended since the image URL is changed after a few months (breaking the link), and images must be set to "Public" access via the Edit option, not limited to "Friends".


THIRD - Once posted on the web, right-click the photo to "Copy Image Location", or drag the photo to another browser window, then copy the image URL (web address) which will end in ".jpg". You can test by pasting the photo URL into the location field (http://* ) of a web browser and see if the photo displays. Remember that this process will not work for photos located just on your computer, on members-only Yahoo groups, or on Facebook unless set to "Public" view.


In Flickr - First click the photo to bring up the options on the right, click the downward arrow icon on the far right ("Download this photo"), then in the list that appears click "View All Sizes". Select the size you want (if not the default size displayed) then get the image URL by right-clicking the image.


FOURTH - DO THIS EVERY TIME TO POST IMAGES IN THREADS:
A. In any "Reply" window you can click the "insert image" icon --> a little yellow square icon with a dot at each corner, a tiny tree in the center.


Depending on browser version and Reply/Edit status, this may bring up a simple window with a field to paste the URL into, or the "Add an Image" window described below.


B. If the window titled "Add an Image" comes up, click the "From URL" tab, paste the URL of the photo in the field, deselect the box for "Retrieve remote file and reference locally", then click the "INSERT IMAGE" button. The Forum software will resize some large images, so look at your post to see the actual displayed images.


NOTE - most common problems are due to missing the step described above -> deselect the box for "Retrieve remote file and reference locally"

Chaps
03-03-2015, 10:40 PM
Thanks for the reasonable advice. I do not want the extra weight if I can help it. The real wear may be up front where I remove and pack away the anchor and chain.

I live in the Puget Sound on Whidbey Island. The boat is going to stay on my trailer in my shop when I am not actually fishing. The chances of the Okoume mahogany rotting is pretty slim if that is what you are alluding to in your request of my local.

Here is a progress photo, supposing I am smart enough to follow woodenboat FAQ that was kindly pushed my way :)

The roof beams go "longitudnal" in Devlin's plan, so I went with it. A little different, but I like it.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8676/16674973446_dc8af212c2_d.jpg

Mo 'Poxy
03-03-2015, 11:53 PM
Thanks for the reasonable advice.

Your boat looks awesome.

Stop asking for advice from the internet. You obviously don't need it and free advice is worth every penney.

2dogsnight
03-04-2015, 12:25 AM
Hi Chaps

Perfect boat choice for PNW ....love it !!
Keep pictures coming :-)

Wojo

Chaps
03-09-2015, 11:48 PM
Here are a set of photos of a "challenge" that I worked through. When you build the hull inverted the aft pilot house bulkhead has to be half of it's final height. So when the boat is flipped upright, one must either but-joint and support, the top of the aft bulkhead, or find a way to scarf the joint, with one of your two pieces sticking up in the air. Devlin's pro-built prototype had a supported but-joint. I found a picture of it, when the boat was for sale up in AK. Not satisfied with that, you will notice the jig I made to do the job. I hung it on the half bulkhead and run my router over it until I had just the right cut.

I hope this helps someone in their project.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7602/16149281784_64364db130_d.jpg
The photo of Devlin's original Dipper 17 prototype with the supported but-joint on the aft bulkhead just behind the stove.


https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8694/16770511042_80d94870a5_d.jpg
My Boat showing the aft bulkhead. This was before I narrowed my pilot house to give it a walk around deck.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8644/16699879912_e516a7cb93_d.jpg
I scarfed the in-place bulkhead with my jig built 1" to 11" slope. You will notice it is not as wide as the bulkhead. I drew a line to be able to move and re-pin the jig to the bulkhead, without loosing my angle, until I covered the entire edge. Pretty self explanatory.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8731/16149222784_e4d7201029_d.jpg
I am pretty happy with the end result. Top to bottom, one piece.

Cheers. Chaps