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View Full Version : Ocean pointer-edge nail vs bead and cove



Cmschlatt
02-28-2015, 02:27 AM
Need some advice, I am ordering some cedar strip build the ocean pointer but the boat won't be built as designed, I used the molds to come up with the shape but once it's strip built I was going to add a solid frame midship and oak ribs on 8" centers similar to the West Point skiff build. I anticipate order the cedar a little wide then the prescribed 3/4 x 1-3/8 strips and was going to kill it bead and cove so it would essentially be a lapped constriction and would be easier to assemble and epoxy, if I did this I would not edge nail due to the bead and cove profile. I hope to paint the hull and not sheathe in any cloth. Am I making a big mistake, would I be better off just planing the strips individually to fit, edge nail and epoxy. The nails adding cross grain strength. Would the hull be too weak with out nails and cloth?

Cmschlatt
03-01-2015, 04:13 AM
As I understand it the mechanical fasteners add rigidity to the hull, work boats were edge nailed and planks were bedded with tar at the keel and stem and the strips would swell to keep it tight, for strip boats edge glued a fiberglass skin is added for strength.

outofthenorm
03-01-2015, 09:22 AM
I would definitely nail, using plastic raptor nails. The nails absolutely prevent any creep or movement during the build and provide almost perfect clamping pressure while the epoxy cures. Also, in the long run, they help stabilize the whole structure. My 60 year old hull is built that way - edge glued, nailed, no sheathing, just paint - and people still ask me if the hull is fib^%#as.

- Norm

Cmschlatt
03-01-2015, 11:16 AM
I don't any of the raptor nails but I have a couple pounds of copper ring shank nails I can use, thanks for the response

JimConlin
03-01-2015, 02:26 PM
That design is well developed and well tested.
Without considerable experience or professional counsel, I'd follow the designer's specifications to the letter.

dbagley
08-17-2015, 09:17 AM
Late to the thread, however for what it is worth- I striped planked my Ocean Pointer with Atl cedar and used screws to frames and edge nailed /epoxy, with raptor nails. Everything went ok..slow going. The only advice around this method is do not use kiln dried cedar cove and bead strips. Many strips require steam bending for a good fit and the strips bending capacity is limited if kiln dried lumber is used. air dry lumber only- major lesson learned.

HarryH
08-17-2015, 11:17 AM
I used epoxy, nails and screws on my build; strips were 1-1/2" wide, . Screws through every 4th strip into the frames, and ring nails spaced every 8" or so, or I needed them. This point alone is justification for the nails. Don't think I could have left them out, as they pull bead and cove strips together handily.

No glass on either of the two strip built boats I've owned. Both drew comments as mentioned above, i.e. hull so smooth and fair others could not believe at first glance that it was not fiberglass.

wizbang 13
08-17-2015, 11:39 AM
Stick with the plan .
Your ideas are overlapping , sort of all over the place.
bruce