View Full Version : Pathfinder Build In FL Keys

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02-15-2015, 07:16 PM
Received plans couple days ago, I've been studying them non stop and I think I've read through just about every blog and post here. Many thanks to guys that took time to document their builds, it's has been very helpful so far.

This will be my third boat build, so,I have some experience but definitely not a pro.

Ill try to keep a good log of any mistakes I find or confusing areas for future builders. I think the plans have gone through a few revisions so hopefully most have been corrected.

My my first challenge will be to locate some quality ply. I'll have to either order some or pick some up in Miami.

I was was leaning towards using Hydrotek for toughness/rot resistance/$$, but after researching there seems to be several cases of delamination. I'm going to price some Sapele and see if I can go that route.

Any my thoughts on the quality of Hydrotek?

02-16-2015, 08:51 PM
From what I understand, the Scamp Camps are steering away from HydroTek due to delamination issues. Not sure I would use something different or not if I were to start over. The other options get pricier.

02-18-2015, 09:52 PM
Yesterday I drove up to Worldpanel in West Palm Beach and got my ply. They have a sweet collection of teak and marine ply. They swore by their meranti ply, he gave me his word it and promised to stand by it. It's called Hydrocore, not tek. It has a Drangon BS 1088 stamp. He has had zero delam issues with it over a course of a few years. I also grabbed a sheet of Sapele for the transom and enough for the top strake, these will be finished bright. The guys at Worldpanel treated be right, they gave me a 20% discount for making the drive to their warehouse and they sold me a huge pile of scrap teak for cheap.

Today i I put pencil to ply and cut the stem piece. The plotting of points was very easy, my marks were very precise, but I still had to average out the points that make the curve.

Some confusion on the exact location of B1, it's pretty clear on the stem detail that it is at 800mm, but by my math, this does not match the location shown on the floor and jig detail, assuming the floor butts all the way into the notch cut out in the stem. It was close enough for me to shrug it off and press.

Two other questions I have is are the frame locations on the jig to the front or back of the frame? Also when you mark the frame locations on the floor, do you measure these with the floor laying flat or with it sitting on the jig with its curve in it?

My goal for tomorrow is to finish the stem doublers and get F1 and F2 cutout. Trying to figure out how to post pics, says I have exceeded 16 g size limit, but I've got the quality dialed pretty low.

Happy to finally get started!!


Build start date: 18 Feb 15, Finish Goal: December 15
Time today: 8hrs
Total time: 8hrs

02-20-2015, 02:57 PM
Testhttps://plus.google.com/app/basic/photos/photo/100400421491148598462/6118014828622482082?cbp=15yigixaweuvn&sview=20&cid=5&soc-app=115&soc-platform=1&pct=ab&pcv=6118014830639337265&spath=%2Fapp%2Fbasic%2Fphotos%2F100400421491148598 462%2Falbum%2F6118014830639337265&sparm=banner%3Dpwa#

02-20-2015, 03:29 PM
coming through five-by-five, over.

02-20-2015, 03:31 PM
To get pix to show properly, you will need to first upload them to a hosting site. I use Flickr which is free up to a certain amount. Or pay something like $20 per year for unlimited. After you upload to your site, you need to copy the URL. To paste the URL to your thread, click on the square box icon (it is a projector screen with a tree) and paste it. Choose "From URL" and (this trips everyone up) don't forget to unclick the box "Retreive remote file ... "


02-21-2015, 04:07 PM
Finally! Getting to the URL was the prob, I had to click the down arrow on the bottom rt, then click the download original size, then copy the address window.

So nothing exciting here. Just my lumber stack and I wanted to show the stamp on the ply I am using. After two days, I have the stem and frame one cut out and frame two marked out ready to cut. The meranti is splintering with the circular saw, think I'll switch to using the router and see if I get a cleaner cut. I am making all frames as a single piece and then adding doublers.

Will be using cypress for stringers, just ordered 8 2x12 14's select grade.

This will be a motor less build. I am am trying to determine if I will use the lug yawl rig or the gaff yawl. I wonder if they will point them same or if I will get a few more degrees to windward from the gaff set up. Pointing is important when trying to tack a channel. On the other hand there are lots of bridges in the keys, I really like the simplicity of the lug yawl on my Northeaster Dory. But I also like the jib and jigger capability.

I may try to incorporate the slot in the king plank for ease of stepping the mast.

Any thoughts on pointing capabilties between the two rigs?

Total Build Time: 16hrs


02-26-2015, 07:54 PM
Making progress...to date I have frames 1-4 and the stem cut and frame 5 is drawn and ready to be cut.

I made a simple jig to line up my circular saw for cutting the straight lines on the frames, it is working great, saving lots of time. Im getting my cuts to within 1/32 on the outside of my marked line relatively easily using this method. Using a long piece of ply makes it easy to clamp where needed. On average it is taking me 3hrs to draw a frame and cut it. Lots of time quadruple checking my marks and numbers, I've managed to catch a couple of goofs before cutting. I'm making all frames as one solid piece and will add extra side doublers with remaing scrap ply after all frames are cut. I'm getting two frames per piece of ply. The Hydrocore is looking great, no issues yet. Transom will be a piece of Sapele.

TBT: 38 hours
Misktakes found to date: There are some discrepancies between the stem detail frame locations and the floor detail frame locations, more to follow once I figure it out


Tools im using to mark frames...

02-26-2015, 07:57 PM
Progress to date:

note, F1 is not notched yet and none of the doublers or floor supports have been added.

TBT: 38Hrs

02-27-2015, 04:08 PM
Looks like you'll be surpassing my build progress in a couple of days!

02-27-2015, 07:59 PM
Some building progress today, I cut F5 and F6 and got some 2x for the building jig. Ill probably make that and F6a/ transom manna. Took a little break and put the Dory in, took my daughters pup for a sail.

MoMan, did you notice the F2 location at 1744 (circled) on the stem detail, it does not match the floor detail. The pencil tip shows F2 in line with the 120 grid mark? I am wondering which is correct the stem or floor detail?
Should I just stick with the frame locations on the floor detail?

TBT: 43 hrs


03-01-2015, 08:13 PM
All frames and transom are cut, but need to add doublers, strong back erected. Up next make the floor and add doublers to each frame. Placement is rough and frame 6 isn't there. Little scary cutting the 12mm Sapele piece for the transom.

TBT: 50 hrs




03-02-2015, 04:59 PM
Wow! Fast progress. And that's a lovely dory in the background.


03-02-2015, 06:49 PM
TBT: 57 hrs

Scarfed the bottom panel together today, fingers crossed. I made an attempt at making a jig for my router, after a few trial runs I made too many mistakes, so I figured I could spend the day perfecting my router jig or just go old school and use my angle grinder and get-her done. I roughed in a 6:1 scarf with my angle grinder and then finished it off with my orbital. Any router tips for scarfing are welcome, I just bought my first router and have only used it a couple of times, lots to learn with the router.





03-03-2015, 07:41 PM
TBT: 63 Hrs

The bottom panel scarf came out nice. Worked on F1 hatch design and marked out the bottom panel for cutting. For the bottom panel, I snapped a centerline and while I had a square edge to work with, I marked the frame locations. For my own piece of mind, I placed each frame flat on the floor at its correct location and marked the bottom chine cutout on each side. Next I plotted the floor widths from the grid pattern. It all seemed to line up, when I draw the fair line, I will use my chine cutout marks as my primary marks. Having a square line at each frame location will help keep the frames square when they get permanently glued/screwed.

For F1, I decided to make the hatch lip and doubler as one piece. I made the hatch bigger to have better access. Having nearly the entire frame doubled should be plenty strong.

More pics manna.

03-04-2015, 07:11 AM
F1 all glued up...



Forward facing side of F1, note the hatch lip acts as my doubler, I stopped the doubler at the floor height, I will use my flush trim bit on the router to finish....


03-04-2015, 07:18 AM
Before I cut the floor to shape, I marked the frames square to the ply edge and marked my chine cut out, then I compared to the floor detail widths...note the batten isn't in position yet...


03-04-2015, 08:01 PM
TBT: 69 hrs

Managed to get the bottom panel cut to shape and faired, also glue the top doublers to F2. I'm planning to cut a slot into the top of this frame for making raising the mast easier, lots of bridges around here! So I'm making this frame extra stout, the top is a total of 36mm.


03-05-2015, 03:00 PM
Cool dog.

03-05-2015, 08:18 PM
TBT: 73 hrs

Not much time for the boat today, I did manage to glue up the stem doublers and I cut the CB box. I'm trying to figure out the best way to rig the pulley system for the center board, I would like to keep most of the lines and blocks on top of the box hidden with a line and cleat on the aft side in the cockpit. Any ideas would be very helpful. Something kinda like this quick sketch...any reason this would not work or is a bad idea? The line would actually stay inside the box, I drew it outside to show it going around the blocks. I would like to keep the box closed so water doesn't splash up inside the boat.


03-08-2015, 07:46 AM
Good looking craftsmanship Y>

03-08-2015, 10:17 AM
Great progress on a wonderful design!

03-08-2015, 04:56 PM
TBT 80 hrs

Cut the slot for the centerboard and set the floor stations and heights. to cut the cb slot, I marked the forward and aft end of the cb, then I set cb box on the floor. Once I was happy it was centered and in the right spot, I layed some long pieces of ply along the sides of the box and screwed them in place. Then I removed the cb box, turned the floor over, and used a flush trim router bit the cut the slot. Came out nice, loving the flush trim bit. Off the build for a few days while I work my real job. When I get back, I plan to glass the floor.

Was happy that the curve cut into the stem matched the floor curve, it will only need minor fitting. Also, I took a close up of the notch cut out in the stem, there is a dicrepancy in the plans (see early post). I decided to make the notch at 110 and put F1 there, will report on how this works out once the rest is assembled.



Note: below, this frame is doubled up up to the point where it meets the stem, this double is also the lip for the hatch. IMHO the designed floor for the anchor well is to high, I want the anchor well lower. My floor for the anchor well will be just below the hatch. Also need to consider anchor well drain at this point, I may have put the hatch too low for it to drain directly overboard.


Note: I have not cut the notch out for the chine stringer on F1 yet...


03-08-2015, 06:26 PM
Not sure if it matters to you, but your photos may be very large files. When I open this thread (which I hope to keep doing) it takes a very long time to fully load. Anybody else experiencing this?

Tom W.
03-08-2015, 06:52 PM

Nice work. I built a PF 7 years ago and am still sailing her whenever I get a chance. I rigged it as a gaff yawl, however if you are challenged by bridges, a sloop rig might serve you better, with a tabernacle. The mizzen mast would be another thing to deal with when encountering bridges. But then, maybe not so much, it is pretty easy to lift the mizzen mast out.

One thing I did, I scarfed using a power plane. I made a simple jig that gave the necessary angle to the cut, and it worked fine, was simple, and accurate. Also I encapsulated the plywood with epoxy in full sheets, 2 coats, before cutting anything. Then after the pieces were cut out I epoxied the edges, everything was sealed when assembled.

Nothing more, looks like you're off to a great start. I envy your warm climate!

Tom W.

03-09-2015, 08:24 AM
Some of my earlier post the pics are the original size, I need to go back and edit them, I'm posting smaller size pics now. Thanks for the heads up.

03-09-2015, 09:57 AM
Edited some of the pics, please let me know if that helped, if it is still to slow, I can make them small, right now they are medium.

03-10-2015, 06:22 AM
That's way better for me. Hope it's ok for others. I know we like big photos here on the forum!

Really enjoying your progress and your tropical environment!

03-13-2015, 09:14 PM
TBT: 93 hrs

Unnecessary, but I feel better with the floor glassed. Spent most of the day making the logs for the CB box and playing around with it on the floor, thinking through how I will attach it square, Before I put glue on it, is it's not a total disaster. Haven't decided if I will use 5200 or epoxy. Also put a doubler on F5. I used a scrap piece of ply to trace the curve of the floor, it matched the curve I plotted from the plans almost exactly.




Checking the traced curved after cut...



Drawing the curve onto the CB box....


03-13-2015, 09:27 PM
Checking for square...

john welsford
03-14-2015, 01:35 AM
Nice job, keep up the good work.
Any thoughts yet as to what kind of gasketing you'll use on that hatch? I've found surgical rubber tubing bonded into a shallow groove to work pretty well.

John Welsford

03-14-2015, 03:26 AM
TBT: 73 hrs

Not much time for the boat today, I did manage to glue up the stem doublers and I cut the CB box. I'm trying to figure out the best way to rig the pulley system for the center board, I would like to keep most of the lines and blocks on top of the box hidden with a line and cleat on the aft side in the cockpit. Any ideas would be very helpful. Something kinda like this quick sketch...any reason this would not work or is a bad idea? The line would actually stay inside the box, I drew it outside to show it going around the blocks. I would like to keep the box closed so water doesn't splash up inside the boat.

Hi Deke,

If you PM me an email address, I can send you some pics of what I did on my cabin pathfinder - very similar to what you are proposing, but totally enclosed to keep water out of the cabin and put the contol line into the cockpit
I put a single big pulley sheave in a " bulge" at the front of the case, so the lifting line was entirely enclosed, and I had a 5:1 tackle running under a false top on the case ( I extended the sides up by about 70mm to accomodate this).
long story short, it worked really well. I had 25kg of lead on the end of the board, and with this setup, lowering was an easy single hand operation, raising was easy single handed 3/4 of the way and possible all the way if need be - and I'm a skinny little guy.

I do have an observation about that large hatch in frame one - i dont think you'll be able to do the anchor well "as designed". If you're aware of that, great. If not, you may want to throw a tape measure over what you have done - I can send you a pic of what I did there too.


03-14-2015, 09:15 PM
TBT - who cares - she'll be done around Dec

Not much time for the boat today, had to hang some shelves for the commander n chief, but did manage to glass the inside of the box and I glued up the CB. 5 layers of 12mm meranti. Not sure why some say ply is not recommended for the CB, it's easy and I can't think of any advantage using solid wood.

So far I am very impressed with this design and how it layed out for the average man. Well done sir.



Aligment is a no brainer using nails... (Not my idea)



03-16-2015, 10:56 AM
Haven't decided if I will use 5200 or epoxy.

I'm curious why you would use epoxy for the centerboard case instead of the specified 5200?

John Bell
03-16-2015, 11:03 AM
Hey wow, I've seen that boat!

Can't wait to see the finished product.

03-17-2015, 09:16 PM
Every time I use 5200 I make a total mess. Also I not sure how to epoxy/fillet over 5200, I know the inside bottom of the box gets a layer of cloth around the edge, do you just glass right over the 5200 seam? Same with adding a fillet to the chine logs, can you fillet over a 5200 seem?

I think I've settled on Gflex, I'm pretty sure normal thickened MAS would hold up just fine, but the Gflex might be better and I can use it to glue down a teak floor later, it's suppost to be good for exotic, tough to glue harwoods.

I've been trying to get my CB lifting system figured out, I'm close. Then I can attach the box and F3 and 5. I think after that I'll add the chine stringers and then the rest of the frames. Also getting all the frame doublers attached.

Back on the build tomorrow, took a day for some spearing and some end of season bugs.


03-18-2015, 01:54 PM
Well, I'm not bothering to fillet over the chine log seam. My thought is the 5200 covers both the structural and the waterproofing aspects of the fillet. Then again, this is my first real build, so I may be totally offbase.

For your CB lifting plans, I am attaching some pix that EpoxyBoy (Pete) from New Zealand sent me from his build of many years ago. I didn't take that route and am sticking to the plans. Hope it helps. And if it doesn't, blame Pete!!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5580/14517540458_c0312d102e.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7SbZG)

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2933/14517540578_7734b2720d.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7Sc2L)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3916/14724069923_ba9d89d4b7.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/or7H1x)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3851/14704083952_ae29f8748f.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/opmgSQ)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3839/14703918702_4085f2c0a9.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/opkqKG)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5583/14703918862_f4924cbd80.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/opkqNs)


03-18-2015, 01:58 PM
For my own CB case, I am planning on adding a widish (maybe 6-8" wide) bright-finished, removable wooden cap. Dual purpose: seating (may be limited to times when not using the main) and a means to keep the splashes out of the forward cutout. So far, the design is all in my head and I may not mess with it until after I launch.

03-18-2015, 09:01 PM
I think either is fine, both are more than strong enough. Thanks for the CB pics, the setup I'm working on is very similar, but only a 2:1 advantage. Never had a CB, so I'm not sure if that will be enough advantage or not. I order some small bronze sheaves from Duckworks to use. I. Also going to have a removable top for maintenance. I made the box 1 3/4 taller than the plans.

I redid my CB box logs, I decided to double the up, couldn't think of a reason not to. Still working on box construction and F3/5. I lined up my sheaves and drilled some holes.

Also, I haven't lined up the frames yet, but I think the measurement on the floor support on the middle of the CB box is too low. I'll check for sure manna.

03-19-2015, 06:46 AM
Yes, both are plenty strong. On the Yahoo forum, John explained that he specified 5200 for the possibility of someone riding the waves up onto the beach, with the boat being dropped harshly onto an extended centerboard, which could crack the brittle epoxy.

03-26-2015, 09:10 PM
Not much time for the boat this week, but made progress with the cb box, attaching floor supports, cutting spacer logs, and drilling holes (hopefully straight enough). It pretty much ready to be glued along with F3 & F5.

Also managed to cut and steam the chine stringers. They are bent on now, will remove and glue down after couple days. My steam box took all of ten minutes to make, I used some un cut 1x12 cypress board and my beautiful wife's floor steamer (with her permission of course). I steamed the 1x4 stringers for an hour, I thought they would be a bit more floppy/bendy than they were, but they still bent easy enough.

Couple of notes, I'm using 1x12x14' cypress select grade for all my stringers and doublers. The 14' length was a bonus. I did scarf about a 6' piece to the 14' so I would have some overhang to play with. I put the scarfed joint at the bow where it is mostly straight and little bending required. I only steamed the board up to the scarf joint.







03-26-2015, 09:45 PM
Checking for swing before it gets glued.


The 240 on the box detail did not work for me (was way low), to find the height before I glued these pieces on, I put F4 on the floor and marked the heights from there. For me the floor support top is about 202 mm from the bottom of the box logs.



03-28-2015, 09:02 PM
Big day...chine stringers.. worked on it for pretty much the whole day. I double and triple checked I had 35mm overhang all the way around and made several adjustments. The stringers still had quite a bit of spring back, and I had to use some wedges to get things where I wanted them. After I got things as closes as I could, I screwed some cross braces to the stingers to hold the shape to make the glue/screw process easier. I also drilled a few holes and used finish nails for alignment. I am working alone, just me and the beagle, so taking the time to think thru a glue process and coming up with a plan to keep things under control is key. Glad this step is done, I dont think I will need to steam the 20x45 stringers. Real happy with the cypress material.

Before the glue, I used cross braces to keep the stringers shape and finish nails for alignment...I started glueing at the back and worked forward. It took 3 half red Dixie cups of thickened epoxy, but had a lot of squeeze out waste, wanted to be sure on this glue.

All clamped and screwed...


Cross braces removed...


04-01-2015, 07:44 PM
Chine stringers came out nice, dry fitted the frames from F5 fwd and checked for fairness and any mistakes. Off the build til Friday , then I will start glueing box and frames to the floor.





04-05-2015, 07:58 PM
Still working on the box, but getting really close. Got the spacers glued to one side yesterday. Today, double checked for square and decided to paint the inside of the box before I close it up for good. I intentionally didn't get to close with the paint to the areas that will get glassed later.


Checking for square again before I glue the other side on...


Prepping to paint inside of box...not getting to close to future areas of glassing



04-10-2015, 10:20 PM
Finally got the cb box and f5 attached to the floor. The box took longer to assemble than expected. I used Gflex epoxy and 1 1/2 bronze screws to attach the box to the floor rather than 5200. My box case logs are also doubled up to provide more glueing surface. The box is 1 1/2 taller so I can run lines for lifting the cb.

I used a heavy piece of lead on each side of the box to make sure the floor didn't flex up when screw the box down.



04-19-2015, 09:15 PM
Well got f3 and 4 glued/screwed a few days ago before I had to head out for work. I also glassed the exterior of the transom. Been pondering my choice of rig and I'm leaning heavily for the balanced lug. My CLC dory is a balanced lug and for a sail/oar, its simplicity is huge. I plan to sail the pathfinder without a motor as well.

Anyone rigged/sailed the pathfinder as a balanced lug?

The floor support for the front of F4 isn't glued on yet. Note, I did not split F3. The stem will butt up to F3...



Each of of frames are cut as one piece, I also decided to double them up. Each is doubled to a logical point, this pic shows that well...


Doubled up frame...


04-20-2015, 02:00 AM
Looks great, and you are really making fast progress. Well done.


04-20-2015, 02:44 AM

I reckon my cat's a good match for your dog. Awesome progress.

04-25-2015, 10:34 AM
Only had couple days off but managed to get the stem attached. I attached bottom doublers first, then glued and screwed it to the floor. Also managed to get a coat of resin on. Next week I'll try to get the rest of the frames attached.



And attached...


A fine day of boat building...


Real happy with this bow eye, should also work as an attachment for the bowsprit stay.


04-25-2015, 05:38 PM
Hey Deke-- Not sure whether or not these pix answer the question you posted on my thread, and I ain't sayin' what I did is correct, but this is what I did:

Tape end against Frame 1:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7612/17081795780_f73f814e28_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/s2sELm)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7613/16646882124_b15f509c13_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rn2C63)

Tape measure pushed against frame 3 (forward end of CB case):
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8708/17061929627_2e32e6ddf0_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rZGRft)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7647/17081565758_e43083b9a0_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/s2ruos)

Note that I am building the yawl version, but I decided to include support for the sloop version because it's easy to make that accommodation now in case I (or a future buyer) decides/prefers the sloop version.

I just received my bow eye from DuckWorks, but I don't think it will work: it's too short to reach through that deep stem material--especially after I add more material for the stem cap (outer hardwood stem). I like the look of yours. And it looks like you'll be passing up my progress in no time!


04-25-2015, 09:03 PM
Thanks for those measurements, for sure helps. I'm prob going to go with the balanced lug, but want the option of gaff yawl as well. What I can't figure out is the mast cutout in the deck is 1030mm forward from B3. And the mast is suppost to be plumb. So shouldn't the mast support and the deck cutout line up? 1775-1030=745, 913-745=168mm forward of B2?

yeah really like the bow eye, was only $34 with shipping, but still need to buy the bronze all thread.

Are you purchasing or making sails?

04-26-2015, 06:58 AM
I'll get my sails from Duckworks. I plan to order the heavier cloth, probably Egyptian white color. I believe the total should be around $1200 with reef points, etc. You should post your question to the Yahoo builder's forum. John is pretty responsive there, along with other really knowledgeable folks.

Just got 2 sets of access hatches. One pair for accessing the CB pivot pin, which I've cut out and test fit, and the other larger pair for the aft end of the CB trunk. But I ordered the wrong size for the latter pair. Crap! I guess I need to order my rudder hardware too. Lots of expenses now.


05-01-2015, 09:29 PM
Progress continues, back on the build after out of town for work last week. Last two days I installed B2, added doublers to the transom and doubled up F6. Also filled the weave on the back of the transom, took two coats of epoxy.

I have F1, F6, F6a and transom to left to install.


Chose to just notch F2 rather than cutout for the king plank. Yep I let the router jump...


Transom doublers added. I'm not doing a motor well, used 20mm cypress stringer stock for the doublers, decided to just put a solid piece across the bottom for the seat support and gudgeon backing/floor attachment...

Gettin glued...


Weave is is now filled with two wet on wet coats of epoxy, ready for sanding and varnish...I used my varnish application of roll with smooth nap and then tip out bubbles with a brush...


Prepping for for transom install, finding 8 degs rake...


05-05-2015, 03:26 PM
Was able to get all frames attached except 6A last couple of days. Off the build again for work, back in a week. Next step will be adding stringers. A few test battens indicate all is fairly fair. Saving 6A for last because I think I will attach it plumb like the rest of the frames, not building a motor well so I can see a reason to tilt it back.

All braced up up and glued/screwed...


May any have to call this boat Sea Beagle, she's my only helper...


Traced the curve of the floor for the seat side panels before attaching g B6...


F6 braced and attached, used a wedge as shown to tweak it plumb and hold it, then screwed a brace from B5 to lock it in...


All frames are up but 6a...


Routed a a groove for a rubber seal before attaching B2 using a bushing attached to the router and a 1/4 groove bit...


05-11-2015, 08:54 PM
Frame 6a went on yesterday, all frames up. Starting work on the stringers this week. I'm opting to do the sheer stringers in two pieces each to make the bending easier, I also figure the glue line will give me a nice center for beveling.

Last frame up! This frame should be raked to match the transom, but I chose to put it on plumb since I'm not doing the motor well.


Test fitting one half of the starboard sheer stringers...glued up the other pieces today, will glue on manna...


Rudder hardware from Hamilton Marine, these are the 1 1/2 Wilcox Critteden, nice and stout...


05-13-2015, 09:44 AM
I'm opting to do the sheer stringers in two pieces each to make the bending easier, I also figure the glue line will give me a nice center for beveling.

I didn't have any trouble bending my full-sized stringers (20X45 douglas fir), except for the bottom one. You might try one before going to the trouble of more gluing/cutting.

For beveling the stringers, I used hand planes. If I were to do it again, I'd use the power plane set up I had for plank beveling, which consisted of a pair of "outriggers" that ride on the adjacent stringer. For plank beveling, I found it was much more accurate, not to mention faster, than hand beveling. As a side note, I suspect that the workout from my hand planing in January is what led to my current shoulder injury (impinged, or "frozen" shoulder). I'm now getting cortisone shots and physical therapy!

I bet you will be surpassing me in a month or two.


05-13-2015, 09:22 PM
My gut said put them on as one piece, but I wanted to give this method a shot. After I'm done with the sheer clamps, I will be putting them on as a single piece. I think it will be less work overall.

I had to spend quite a bit of time figuring the notch depth in B1 and B2. Mostly because I made the frames so thick, I made B2 36mm thick. I initially cut the notches too deep, but I caught my mistake and glued in a small packer to fill the gap. That and checking for fairness took basically a day of pondering.

I ended up making this guide to keep the stringer at the right depth. What I realized is because this frame angles out, if you cut the notch too deep, you will have a space at the top when the plank goes on...


Another view on how far off I was...that would of been a huge mistake, glad I thought it thru...


I also learned a lesson on the cutting the stringer to fit the notch in the transom, I cut the first one too short...


It has to be cut a little longer than the mark...always learning...



1.5 days work, one sheer clamp on...


05-15-2015, 08:51 PM
Both sheer clamps on! Ripped the rest of the stringers, they will be going on as on piece, not a fan of splitting them.

Not that I'm the first say this, but when did she get so big? Very, very happy with this boat, well done sir (JW).


05-15-2015, 09:02 PM
Yep, a capable 4-wd SUV of open boats.

05-15-2015, 11:21 PM
Be prepared for all sorts of crazy clamping, spanish windlassing and such on some of the other stringers - the first one up from the bottom has a wicked twist at the bow.
With the timber I used (an Australian eucalypt) I had to split every single one, although I found that the two halves would stay stuck together amazingly well with the wet epoxy and a bit of tape around each end - it was pretty messy at the time.


05-19-2015, 10:29 PM
Stringers are on, the top two on both sides are glued, ran out of time on the bottom two before had to go back to work, but they are clamped in place and ready to be glued. I had a difficult time visualizing the proper depth for the stringers in the bow, hopefully they are not too deep.

JW says to watch for fairness I both the vertical and horizontal. Vertical is easy enough to see, but horizontal fairness? Seems like that is somewhat fixed by frame shape and notch depth. Not sure how to really check or adjust this without throwing something off. By looking at it seems ok.

Also he says the bottom stringer may bend it too far and may need to be wedged out. Would this be between B1 and the stem? Seems like the stringer pretty much runs in a straight line here, I don't see any bending inward. Anyone one else need to wedge the bottom stringer out? If so where at.





05-20-2015, 10:37 AM
JW says to watch for fairness I both the vertical and horizontal. Vertical is easy enough to see, but horizontal fairness? Seems like that is somewhat fixed by frame shape and notch depth. Not sure how to really check or adjust this without throwing something off. By looking at it seems ok.

This is where I discovered that I had cut one of my stringer notches a few MMs off; there was no way that stringer was going to fit the bend without breaking. So I simply cut the notch to fit the stringer and filled the gap with goop.

Looking good! Take Peter Lenihan's advice and take lots of pictures at this stage as it is the last time you will see the skeletal structure before planking it. I experimented with different lights at night to highlight the curves and such. Glad I did.


05-30-2015, 07:03 AM
All stringers attached, on to beveling and fairing, and some floor work. Unfortunately the build will practically come to a complete stop until mid August due to summer traveling with fam, pretty bummed. At least I'm at a decent stopping point. I've been reading Open Boat Across the Pacific, good stuff, one tough dude.

Splitting the stringers really isn't necessary and creates a lot more work. I was able to bend the 20x45 cypress stringers relatively easily. The bottom stinger has a lot of twist, but I was able to tackle this using a a small scrap piece of wood clamped to the stringer as a lever.

This is was my go to method of twisting the stringer...here Im dry fitting the second stringer, by pushing at the bottom of the clamped board, I can easily get the stringer to make contact at the bottom and screw it. when glueing, I generally worked from the center of the boat forward then center back to the stern.


The hull is formed...



Good shot of that bottom stringer twist, it practically goes from horizontal amidship to vertical at the bow.




john welsford
06-06-2015, 03:04 PM
Nice work Deke, looking very good.
You comment on her getting "big". The first guy who went from a Navigator to a Pathfinder said that he felt as though he should be taking his lunch when he went forward, for sure they're a lot bigger than their smaller sisters than just the extra length would suggest, they're wider and deeper as well.

Have a good break with the family, enjoy their company and they wont be grumbling when you come home and disappear out to the boatshop.

John Welsford

06-11-2015, 06:50 PM
Disappear I will. My adventure meter has been pegged in the red and I'm eager to get her floating. Guess I can make some big decisions (color scheme/name), while I'm off the build. Anyways, good to hear from ya JW!

The boat shop is officially closed for the summer, oh well. Was able to get a little fairing work done on the port side though. MoMan, is my fairing of the chine stringer similar to what you ended up with? Seems like I had to take quite a bit off. I figured the finer the entry the better.

Some interesting comparison shots...hopefully I didn't take too much off...




07-15-2015, 09:04 PM
I think I like Maine...

Schooner When and If, An Alden Schooner built for Patton. Currently running charters out of Hyannis Massechusetts, Amazing

Camden Maine, can you count the Schooners? This place was awesome...


Driving to Bar Harbor...


07-16-2015, 08:28 AM
MoMan, is my fairing of the chine stringer similar to what you ended up with? Seems like I had to take quite a bit off. I figured the finer the entry the better. Some interesting comparison shots...hopefully I didn't take too much off...

Yes, you have to take a lot off at the bow/stem/stringer intersection. I kind of botched mine and ended up with a gap -- but nothing that can't be fixed with a scrap of wood and a blob of thickened epoxy! I will also be adding an outer stem cap to help hide my sins. If I can get the boat dropped in the water fast enough at the boat ramp, that section will be well hidden from view.

If you hold some sample planking material against the stringers, it should illustrate how much to remove.

I've been dragging my feet a bit on my build lately. The heat/humidity here is not a big motivator. Toss in the fact that one of my big garage exhaust fans is starting to crap out and I'm inclined to sip my beverages in the comfort of the house A/C. Nevertheless, I did finally glue up the blank for the rudder blade and am now contemplating cutting into a beam of cherry for the rudder cheeks.


07-16-2015, 08:36 AM
Thanks for keeping this blog. I like Welsford's frame-and-stringer design philosophy. I'm strongly considering building the Pilgrim in 2017.

08-14-2015, 03:54 PM
Just getting back to the Keys! Hope to get this build going again soon!

08-14-2015, 07:49 PM
Woo hoo! I hope it's not as hot there as it has been in Houston (106F the other day). Not a work-outside-motivator.

08-16-2015, 11:29 AM
I hear ya my friend, that Texas heat is brutal!! I actually be on layover in Houston in couple days. Not as bad in keys, mid 90s, but that sure cures quick with temps like that. I'll probably have to use epoxy in a tube for planking, usually by the time I'm done mixing a bat hi can tell it is already getting warm before I spread it out. Fairing is next for me.

Rik van der Vaart
08-16-2015, 02:41 PM
Looks nice Deke.

Soon you will be doing this:

08-16-2015, 10:04 PM
I actually be on layover in Houston in couple days.

Time enough for a beer?? I'm flexible.

08-16-2015, 11:15 PM
Beer sounds good, I sent a pm with my number, let me know if it doesn't go thru.

08-28-2015, 08:41 PM
Finally back on the build. Many thanks to Moman for graciously showing me his build and letting me bore him with a thousand questions -- thanks brother, and the barbecue was great!

First obstacle to get back into the build was fairing the stringers. Fairing sucks. It took me two days in awkward positions with an angle grinder. It was not my best work by any means, I admittedly rushed this step. I over beveled a few spots and they will require some epoxy to fill some small gaps. I tried using the power plane with a guide, but I found the upside down positions awkward and I was better at using the angle grinder there. If I could do it again, I would draw a reference line between the frames along the top and bottom of each stringer so not to over bevel. I would get about a 90% solution with the grinder then switch to a surform or plane. Also moving the grinder along the whole length of the boat each pass makes for a fairer job, but your in such an awkward position, moving around is difficult and I found myself working between a couple of frames at a time.

Fairing and beveling is an art and skill not to be rushed.

In the bow, there is a lot of material to remove, I used a jig saw here first...


Then finish with with the angle grinder...


And then with the surform...


08-29-2015, 08:21 PM
Planking has begun. This will be my first attempt at making planks. JW's instructions recommend holding a rough plank up to the stringers and tracing the shape. I couldnt figure an easy way to get the rough shape without wasting ply and it seemed like holding and clamping each piece would be red ass. I deciding to try spiling the planks.

Tools used...


I used a 8' long 3" wide teak deck (about 1/8" thick) deck board to make the marks on, it seemed like it would stay nice and straight.


Here is a shot getting ready to do the bow...


I used a compass to transfer the mid point and bottom of each stringer, I did this at each frame and half way between each frame.



08-29-2015, 08:28 PM
Transferring the marks to the ply...





Using a a batten to connect the dots...



08-29-2015, 08:36 PM
And finally a plank...


The planks have beenfitting nicely...glad I decided to try this method, not nearly as bad as it seems...



Gotta love the bow...




Rik van der Vaart
08-29-2015, 09:27 PM
That is how it is done. Congratulations on first plank. It is the most difficult one.

08-30-2015, 07:18 PM
I started the process of attaching the garboard bow plank at forward wedge and at the bottom of the plank. The wedge got the plank about 1/4" from making contact, then I used a temporary wood screw with a washer at B1 to draw the plank up until I got squeeze out. From there, I worked my way forward at the bottom of the plank with 1" permanent bronze screws. I add a clamp at the top of the plank after a couple of screws at the bottom until the front part of the plank done, then I worked aft of the front wedge using wedges and screws. Careful with screw placement with regards to future fairing and gains. Also give thought to where you put wedges, don't put them where you will need to place a screw along the frame. Also careful not to screw thru the chine log. Also dry fitting the plank yesterday and letting it sit position overnight made it easier today, the ply kept most of the memory.




Check out the little wedge I used on the clamp, it was clutch...


08-30-2015, 07:50 PM
Very cool. It's all easy after this.

08-30-2015, 09:46 PM
Rock on! Glad to see that the hurricane headed your way has dissipated.

09-09-2015, 02:34 PM
She is half planked. Planking has gone well thus far. Spiling was easier than thought and very accurate. The sheer planks and middle planks are cut, they just need to be glued on. For the most part, I am permanently screwing the bottom of the plank using #10 bronze screws and using clamps at the top for attahment. This alleviates hitting screws while fairing for the next plank. Also chose to just use butt joints and will add tingles later.

Cutting gains...the Shinto plane has worked great here, thanks MoMan for introducing me to the great tool!



Before attaching a plank, I used a 1/8" round over bit on the bottom outside edge...


I am starting the gains 16"s back from the bottom of the stem...


09-10-2015, 06:14 PM
I freaked out for a second when I saw that last picture. Thought, "He cut the gains on the wrong side of the planks!" Then remembered that you're building right-side up!

Nice work. The spiling is one of those things that seems so simple and satisfying after you give it a try.


09-10-2015, 09:43 PM
What did you decide for the plank end joins? Tingles or scarfs?

09-10-2015, 10:23 PM
Tingles. I'm going to try and camouflage the visible ones with cleats or something. I'm average at best with making good scarfs. Trying to figure out my hatch plan, I want to make some flush wooden hatches with the teak decks. Planking will be complete soon, guess decks and floors are next which means I need a hatch layout.

Like this...



09-11-2015, 11:15 AM
A guy named Lorenzo is building a PF, in Italy I think. He is also making his own hatches, which might be worth a look:


09-22-2015, 07:38 PM
Alas, the whiskey plank !


Gave the honors to my girl...


Cheers to the Beagle ...



Sheer strake is Sapele for possible bright finish ...



Rik van der Vaart
09-22-2015, 07:49 PM
Y> looks very nice. Congrats with the completion of the planking!

09-22-2015, 08:03 PM


09-22-2015, 08:19 PM
Looks GREAT! Congratulations on completing the planking!

09-23-2015, 09:29 AM
Alright! I told you that you'd be passing up my progress in short order. I like the top of your stem detail.

09-23-2015, 11:00 AM
Ya, I decided to cut it that way and see if I like it. Thinking about just putting a bronze pin thru it perpendicular for anchoring and such. I need to trim it down a little more, just a little high. I think if I forego the bow sprit, I'll keep it.

09-24-2015, 07:18 AM
I really like the simplicity of this mast step assister. This is a photo of a whaling boat in the Nantucket Whaling Museum. Pondering a way incorporate something like this in the Pathfinder Lug Cat Yawl.


Measures Once Cuts Twice
09-24-2015, 09:44 AM
Sea Beagle is really eyeing the whiskey!

Great progress, the pic of the inside (right below SB's pic) looks very sharp.

09-28-2015, 08:34 PM
Lower decks are cut and fitted. I used the same spilling technique used for planking to get the shapes. The areas where the floors intersect the stringers takes a bit of finagling. Next I will finish the areas under the decks completely, add the tingles, fillets, and paint, etc. I also need to finalize my hatch plan. I've axed my plan to to put teak veneers on top of the ply, instead I'm going to put a thin layer of cloth and paint/seadek. Changed my mind because primarily because of the heat of the teak floors (I live in the keys). The light grey seadek looks nice and is comfy underfoot, stays cool and is easy to install and replace.

What the?...




shade of knucklehead
09-29-2015, 02:29 AM

Its done turned into a boat!

09-29-2015, 06:53 AM
Nicely done! I'm fretting about fitting the lower decks and you make it look easy. Looks great!

09-29-2015, 08:09 AM
That was quick!

10-09-2015, 07:05 PM
Hatches.......boy tough decisions, what type, how big, where at, how to seal, latches?...

After much contemplation I picked up the jig saw and put blade to ply.



10-09-2015, 07:23 PM
Rudder body made today.

Cheeks are 12mm Sapale and 9mm meranti (total 21mm each side)
Packers are 9mm,12mm,9mm meranti (30mm total)

After making the first piece, used flush trim bit with router for rest. Then cut the packer pieces as per plans. Nails are key for keeping everything aligned. When I glue them this will also keep everything nice and straight, less fussing.


Prior to cutting packers to shape...NOTE: alignment nail holes must not go thru parts of the Packers that will be cut out.


Packers ready to be cut to final shape.


This is why nails must not go thru parts of packers that are cut out...




10-22-2015, 08:25 PM
Working on filleting, deck edge supports, tingles and centerboard pin system:





10-22-2015, 08:41 PM
For the CB pin system, I wanted something simple, dependable (wont leak), and easily removable without the need for tools.

Anybody can think of cons to what I've come up with here please share, rather hear about it now.

This is what I came up with, made with a piece of red cedar had laying around and a 1 ft piece 1/2" bronze rod I ordered from Hamilton Marine:

I "keyed" the bronze rod with the angle grinder befor setting in epoxy in the handle.


Set up like this so the thickened epoxy wouldn't run out while setting up:


The rod and nut (filled first with cabosil thickened epoxy) were tapped and died:


Both ends will be a rubber washer,


No tools needed for removal, simply remove the nut and pull the handle:


Rik van der Vaart
10-23-2015, 09:01 AM
Does the "nut" have metal in it? And do I see a tube in the CB pivot hole?

Measures Once Cuts Twice
10-23-2015, 09:34 AM
Looking great!
we really need "like" buttons on this forum!

and now I know how I'll be building my rudder Version 2.0! (And dagger board version3.0)

10-23-2015, 02:56 PM
No metal in the nut, it's filled with thickened epoxy and tapped, but not all the way thru. No tube, the hole was was over drilled, filled with thickened epoxy and drilled to 1/2inch. I'm planning keep the hole thru the box 1/2" and making the hole thru the board bigger than half inch so there is play in the board.

This is the correct way, right?

Rik van der Vaart
10-23-2015, 10:11 PM
It looks good. I dont know how the thread in the nut-part is going to hold up with lateral forces coming from the centerboard. There will be some space between the cb and the case. In any case you will be able to see and correct any leakage coming from this assy if any occurs.
Looking forward to see your progress.

10-26-2015, 06:45 PM
Rudder shaped today. I started by using a round over bit on the leading edge and bottom, then I used a camfer bit on the trailing edge to give me a good line to go to. After the edges were dressed, Layed the plans over the rudder stock and transferred the stations to the front and back sides. Took depth measurements from the plans at each station and used a straight bit with the router to cut the depth at each station. Finally smoothed out with a orbital.

Transferring the stations...


Getting the roundover set at a good depth...


Not the best pic, but after using the roundover on one of the sides...


Rounded both sides leading edge now, note the leading edge is thickened epoxy...


Cutting the trailing edge to correct thickness...


10-26-2015, 07:22 PM
So now I measured the depth at each station, set the router with a straight bit to that depth and took off that amount from that station back...I worked towards the middle to the max camber line...


Router in action...i cut each station in two passes, first rough, then took my time and got right up to the line...


Leading and trailing edge bulk removed, worked towards the middle...


Side view prior to switching to orbital...


Now I just smoothed it all out with the orbital...


This approach worked well, rudder has a nice airfoil shape...


10-26-2015, 07:23 PM
After all that hardwork, Sea Beagle got er a bone!


Mike J
10-26-2015, 07:25 PM
Nice work Deke! I've been watching from the sidelines; thanks for sharing your build.


10-27-2015, 04:02 PM
No tube, the hole was was over drilled, filled with thickened epoxy and drilled to 1/2inch. I'm planning keep the hole thru the box 1/2" and making the hole thru the board bigger than half inch so there is play in the board.

This is the correct way, right?

That sounds undersized to me. You should have a 1" O.D. SS pipe that fits snugly (but is not fastened/glued) through the CB case sides and the board. This is the pivot pin. To keep the pin from sliding out on its own, you insert a bolt with big fender washers (and O rings) which cap and seal each end of the pipe. (As an aside, pipe is structural, vs. tubing which is not, I'm told.)

I just redrilled my board pivot hole to 1 1/8", filled with thickened epoxy, then drilled to 1". I now need to re-drill the CB case sides, which should be a PITA.

You might do a search on CB pivot pins in the JWBuilders yahoo group. That was where I found out my pin was undersized.


10-27-2015, 07:20 PM
Ya, I'm gonna try the 1/2" bronze rod first, his pin design seemed like it would be difficult to remove quickly on the fly if needed. If the 1/2" solid bronze fails, I'll go bigger.

On yours, your plan to drill a 1" hole thru the trunk and a bigger hole thru the board?? Should the board be drilled oversized so there is play? My understanding is that the force of the board should bear on the sides of the trunk?? Not so much on the pin?

Getting ready to flip in couple of days!

10-27-2015, 07:46 PM
If the board is taking force, that force is transferred to the sides via the pin, so it all needs to be pretty robust. He has designed it to take the force of the boat coming off a wave onto the beach with the board locked down.

Ive read that a sloppy fitting pin may not be a bad thing, but of course, too much slop will not be good either. I figure, start with a snug fit and experiment with making it larger. And yes, my trunk sides will be drilled to 1", with the edges painted in thickened epoxy. But I'm not overdrilling the case holes.

10-29-2015, 06:28 PM
Wrapped up filleting, well most of it, probably got two bags worth left. I decided to move on and flip the boat and finish the exterior. I decided to put off the upper deck until after painting.

The sea beagle and I put our heads together and made a plan...

First step, cut the jig and ready the jack...


Front of the building jig now removed and front of the boat propped up...


Building jig removed and boat is on the jack and front prop, all beagles required to leave at this point...


Boat lowered to the floor...


Now I rolled her up on her side...that column was a good helper, it did exactly what I asked and kept its ideas and comments to itself...


At this point I pulled on that piece of cardboard and eased the boat down the column...good column....


10-29-2015, 06:29 PM
Victory, sea beagles permitted to return...





10-29-2015, 06:40 PM
Rounded the edges, Xynole clothe in the mail.


Started prepping for the stem build. Using teak strips. Right now the are planned to 3/16, but I think I'll shave a bit more, they have to make a tight turn and I heard a little creaking on the test run. Total thickness I'm shooting for is 3 inches. JW doesn't show an outer stem in the plans, so just taking a stab at it.

Ive read that you can laminate teak so long as you acetone well before glueing.



Mike J
10-29-2015, 07:04 PM
Congratulations on your flip Deke! It's really interesting to see how different your build is from mine which was planked upside down. I imagine it will feel great when you flip right side up again and realize half the work is already done...
Lookin' good!


10-29-2015, 07:19 PM
Thanks brother, it was a good day!

10-30-2015, 08:02 AM
I only laminated teak once, but it had a fair amount of spring-back.

10-30-2015, 08:43 AM

10-30-2015, 04:25 PM
So I reduced the thickness from 3/16 to 1/8, there are 19 strips giving me about 2 1/4" total thickness. Was able to get them to take the jig with no creaking, no issues.


10-31-2015, 03:37 PM
Hopefully I made a giant teak candy cane!

Acetoned both sides well...


3 red Dixie cups of thickened resin...


No issues taking the jig...


10-31-2015, 07:12 PM
Excellent progress! Your flipping technique has made me realize I've been way over-thinking Gardens' upcoming turn. Thanks for the inspiration.

10-31-2015, 08:41 PM
Flipping wasn't bad, little nerve racking, I think Gardens is on a trailer now right? Would be a piece of cake to flip her out in the yard on some grass.

10-31-2015, 09:07 PM
Gardens hasn't been on her trailer for awhile... we did the off-the-trailer-onto-the-grass-rollover in July of 2014. She's sitting on some short sawhorses in the barn now but can be eased to the floor and then, possibly, rolled over and propped upright. Otherwise, we'll carry her out to the yard, set her down, roll her over in the grass, carry her back into the barn, set her on the floor and prop her upright. Looks like that's going to happen next Friday.

Still nerve racking but that should be short lived.

CK 17
11-01-2015, 12:20 AM
Hatches.......boy tough decisions, what type, how big, where at, how to seal, latches?...

After much contemplation I picked up the jig saw and put blade to ply.



i made similar hatches on kayaks. I sealed them with neoprene weather stripping. They do have to be dogged down tight to be water tight. I used a threaded 1/4 inch bolt set in a wooden toy wheel I bought at woodcraft. It goes through the hatch. I twist the "wheel" and it pulls up on a hardwood bar across the opening underneath. That pulls the hatch down for a good seal. There's a wing nut set in the bar.

nice work!

11-01-2015, 07:09 AM
Cool. The bar system you described seems to be the most secure, I've been wrapping my brain around trying to figure a way to make the dog system flush w/o buying those bronze flush ones.

Do you think I should bother routing a groove or just use a wide strip of weather strip.

john welsford
11-01-2015, 04:11 PM
Nice work all round, that stem is looking good. Being lazy I usually laminate the outer stem by just wrapping one strip at a time around the stem ( the one on the boat) using boatnails to hold it, marking where the nails are with pencil marks on the planking so I dont hit them with the nails for the next one. Three or four strips, then when the glue has kicked off on the last one fair it with the big sander and wrap some glass tape around it.
Yours is much the better aesthetically, well done.

John Welsford, who's admiring all the Pathfinder action.

Rounded the edges, Xynole clothe in the mail.


Started prepping for the stem build. Using teak strips. Right now the are planned to 3/16, but I think I'll shave a bit more, they have to make a tight turn and I heard a little creaking on the test run. Total thickness I'm shooting for is 3 inches. JW doesn't show an outer stem in the plans, so just taking a stab at it.

Ive read that you can laminate teak so long as you acetone well before glueing.



11-01-2015, 05:42 PM
Funny you say that, I nearly did it that way! But before I mounted the stem, I traced its shape to a piece of ply. Since I had that, I figured it would be less messy to form the stem on the jig.

No problems removing the stem, no spring back, teak seems well glued. The shape is real close, just a little gap to tune or just let epoxy work its magic.



Just a little gap, otherwise came out great...


CK 17
11-01-2015, 09:22 PM
Cool. The bar system you described seems to be the most secure, I've been wrapping my brain around trying to figure a way to make the dog system flush w/o buying those bronze flush ones.

Do you I should bother routing a groove or just use a wide strip of weather strip.
I would just apply it to that flange you have in the hatch opening. The hatch might stick up a bit. However, the neoprene compresses a lot. With that type of hatch, it's important to get a good seal. I'll try and post a picture tomorrow.

CK 17
11-02-2015, 09:02 AM


11-02-2015, 07:23 PM
Filled screw holes, epoxied the exterior, and fiddled with the stem more.

Got the stem tuned a bit closer...


I chalked up the back of the stem to find the high spots to take down...

Sea Beagle continues to prep for life at sea, she has acquired a taste for coconuts ...


Rik van der Vaart
11-02-2015, 08:01 PM
Wow, like the chalk method... leave some space for the epoxy to do its work though. Very nice looking stem.

11-03-2015, 06:28 PM
Some progress today, tomorrow I hope to finish the rest of the keel structure. I've decided to mount the keel prior to putting on the Xynole. I figure it will be less stress doing all that mixing and glassing one side at a time. I'll wait to fillet the keel until I glass the bottom to tie it together.

Put a fillet under the laps...


Continued to work on the stem, put a bevel on it so its 7/8ths wide in the front, looks quite a bit different, it was nerve racking putting a power plane on the stem after having spent two days making it, all came out well, no goofs, Shinto was key...


here is a before and after..


After...should I take the bevel higher up the stem? maybe another few inches?


Also located a spot for the boweye and the stem is now screwed to the boat and ready for epoxy...the hole almost came out perfectly centered on the inside stem, it's off about 1/8". I drilled the stem, got it nice and centered first, at the angle I needed for the boweye, then I used the stem as a guide to drill the hole in the boat.

I need to to decide how high to carry the bevel on the stem, I think I'll take it about half way up the sheer plank.


11-04-2015, 05:39 PM
Glued up the stern piece of the keel today, it's not permanently attached yet, just used the boat to as a jig...


Also so made the CB side pieces and beveled the forward keel structure...


And i I used all that excess epoxy from the stern keel squeeze out to fill the leading edge of the CB...


Ok off to work for a few days, next up when I get back, I will Xynole the bottom and attach the keel pieces, and paint, cheers!

11-10-2015, 09:30 PM
Big day, today we (the Sea Beagle and I), Xynoled the bottom up to the first strake. Overall, the Xynole was very pleasant to work with and it did not give me any problems. It was the first time I've used Xynole, but I have glassed many a time.

Going into it, I was concerned with the Xynole floating from what I've read on the forums. It turned out to be a non issue. Yes the Xynole did float when I poured resin on, but I was easily able to squeegee out the excess after it saturated and keep the cloth from floating. In fact I used the same technique I use when wetting out glass cloth. I used the pink bondo spreaders and they worked fine.

I mixed up up about a 3/4 red Dixie cup at a time, dumped it straight onto the cloth in about a 2x3 area. I allowed the resin to pool and allowed the weight of the resin to saturate the cloth fully. The color the cloth makes when saturated is easy to recognize. From there, I simply moved the pool of resin around with the spreader until it was gone. At that point I carefully squeegeed out any excess resin into dry cloth. Mixed up another cup, poured out the resin along the edge of the area I just wetted and repeated. I sorta kept a wet front line of pooling resin and just kept advancing it. I did not use a roller.

Of course I started in the middle of the boat and worked towards the ends. The Xynole conforms easily, no issues with wrinkles. The edges get a little sloppy where you cut the cloth with scissors, but luckily this butted up to the bottom of the first strake, I chose to not fillet that lap yet, now that I have the Xynole on, the fillet will cover that ugly edge.

Thats about it, long day, started at 8am prepping, started spreading resin at 1030 and didn't finish until 530pm. After I got the cloth wetted out, I went back and rolled two more coats of straight resin to start filling the weave. I used 1.5 gallons of resin, and probably mixed up about 30 cups.

I am happy with the results, Xynole was easy to work with, and it seems I have added a thick, tough layer to the bottom. The only thing I would have done different is recruit a dedicated mixer. Here some pics...

Up to this point, the keel pieces were made, dry fitted and remove (the keel came out nice) and the chine seam received 10oz, 6" wide fiberglass tape and that has been feathered on the edges...


Yeah me, a pile of cloth. At this point, Sea Beagle said I'm out and went looking for iguanas... Oh, and I taped the inside of the CB box really good...


All spread out and trimmed...


This is how I attacked the bow...I'm gonna cut the Xynole on the stem away where the stem will go. I had to split the cloth here, it's cut under the black tape...


8 hours later...


Front view after the wet out...


11-10-2015, 09:40 PM
As soon as the cloth was wetted out, I rolled out two coats of straight resin with a smooth nap roller. The mid section of the boat where I had started (about 6 hours earlier) was no longer tacky, but the bow had just been completed, so it was freshly wet.

Some I rolled out two coats on the rear of the boat first, and at that point (about an hour later) the bow was tacky. I rolled out two coats of resin on the front.

So now that Xynole has three full coats of epoxy. Next I want to roll out one more coat to wet it out and then spead a layer of epoxy thickened with cabosil, followed by resin with graphite...





11-11-2015, 09:03 AM
Some progress today,.... I'll wait to fillet the keel until I glass the bottom to tie it together....

Put a fillet under the laps...


i found a handy tool @ HF for sanding/fairing fillets, while restoring/rescuing a CLC Eastport Pram


chucks up in a drill

just takes a light touch & renders a nice/fair sanded surface

also worked well along the skeg & rub strips

your work is INSPIRING and the documentation w/ lotsa pics is a joy to follow


11-11-2015, 10:09 AM
Excellent, thanks for the tool tip!

After having a nightmare that my Xynole bottom peeled off like cheap tape last night, I was eager to have a look this morning. All is well!

i am very happy with the Xynole, I have indeed made the bottom very tough, it will be less stressful sailing the shallows of the keys knowing I've got some decent protection. I did a light sanding this morning to remove the little nubs which was easy with the orbital.

I tried to feather the edge at the transom and that's when I realized just how tough the Xynole is. Feathering 10oz glass tape was quick and easy. In contrast, feather just a couple feet of Xynole was a pain, this stuff is thick and tough. Glad I don't have much feathering to do!

About a 30 secs with the orbital on full blast and 60 grit, that would have taken glass right down...


I was able to achieve the desired result on the stem, now Ill sand that flush and attach the stem...



Here is the stem I made, it is tapered to 7/8"...


Just a little more shaping required on the keel, but real close...also brass rub strip from Online Metals just arrived, I have no drill press so I need to figure a smart way to drill by hand, or I need to use this opportunity to buy a much needed shop tool...


11-12-2015, 03:00 PM
Back at today, I'm starting to get pysched for the upcoming painting, hopefully only a couple of days out.

Starting the morning scuffing the bottom really good before applying more resin, I would of liked to have skipped this step but I ran out of daylight on the day of glassing and I didn't get all of the coats I wanting that day. So hopefully it's well enough for a good mechanical bond...


Next i wetted the bottom with straight resin, then I mixed up a batch of graphite resin and rolled that on the bottom only...


Then an I moved to the sides and put on a thick layer of micro balloons ... After that I rolled another coat of straight resin on the bottom to keep it "hot" or tacky and then rolled a final coat of graphite epoxy mix. So the bottom layers ended up consisting of saturated Xynole, resin, resin, resin, graphite, resin, and finally another graphite...


At this point I am happy with the bottom, It's not perfect, But looks smooth and shiny. I think I let the ocean finish wet sanding it for me. I am not going to paint it. It will get plenty of scuffing around these parts and I figure having a paint-less graphite bottom will be easily repairable every couple of years. Just scuff and roll out a light layer of epoxy graphite.

Final sanding will commence tomorrow along with primer and i will glue and screw the keel structure.

11-14-2015, 07:07 PM
Decided to go ahead and attach the stem and skeg pieces. Boy what a day, time flew and as I was wrapping up it was getting dark. Job was a success, a lot of epoxy. All teak was well acetoned.

The most critical area to have a plan for, before you attach the pieces at the CB slot, is how to ensure the joint at the edges is not ever going to leak or allow water to get into the ply end grain. I gave this a lot thought. I'll have to sketch a pic of how I tackled that later.

if working single handed like me, having a plan where to put the screws thru the skeg and where to screw up thru the inside bottom and how to clamp ahead of time is pretty key.

I used all excess epoxy squeeze out for the fillets.

Prep, well this basically I had to go from this...


To this...and yes it sucked...but in my mind the mechanical bond had to be well done...my tool of choice here was the Shinto....it is very well scuffed...


I started at the bow, then the stern, then the CB side pieces...and then it was dark, I'll have to take more pics manna...


This is pic looks like there is a gap, but there isn't it's just the light, I had about a 1/16 gap all they way around when dry fitted, this was to allow room for epoxy, there was sweet squeeze out all around...the bow eye bolt was used in clamping, after epoxy was almost cured I twisted a few times so it wasn't glued in, also it was taped...


11-14-2015, 07:30 PM
Very cool. I like the graphite/epoxy. Are you going to keep the bottom black? When I was wondering what colour to paint, Perry helpfully suggested air-sea rescue orange, on the basis that people usually wouldn't see it, but on the day when we're capsized 20 miles off the coast it could come in useful.

11-14-2015, 08:17 PM
Great work!

11-14-2015, 09:06 PM
Yeah, I'm going to leave the bottom black graphite epoxy. I'll wrap the paint around about an inch on the bottom. My thought process here is the graphite epoxy is an easily repairable, slick, and reasonable durable surface. I don't think I would gain anything by painting it.

I like the orange color idea for safety though, too bad epoxy isn't orange.

11-15-2015, 04:38 PM
Rain for next two days, so no painting for me. I am going to use Epifanes monourethane Light Oyster on the sides and a bright sheer. Worked on some sanding, here's some better pics of the skeg...





11-15-2015, 07:05 PM
Looking great Tom! I suspect you will be on the water before me.

11-18-2015, 12:27 PM
Rolled on the first coat of Epifanes Light Oyster. Less than ideal conditions, very windy and upper 80's. Hard to keep a wet edge and got a little chatter using a quality double thick chip brush for tipping. I started with one cap full of thinner with 250ml of paint. Up'd it to two caps for the other side, slightly better.

Not perfect by any means, but I'm happy with it. I did not prime the surface, only used microlight filler to fill minor imperfections, the surface came out very very smooth. To many unknowns with the hi build primer for me, moisture issues, putting it on to thick, orange peel, etc. I felt confident with the epoxy and microfiller, it worked great.

i think it will cover nicely with four coats. Hopefully it will dry in 24 hrs for a light scuffing so I can put on a coat each day.

Prior to sanding with micro filler...took 2 lightly skimmed coats, about 2 hours...


After sanding...took about 3 hours to sand to 180 grit using an orbital and a long board...


Just oust prior to panting...


And the first coat...




11-18-2015, 03:11 PM
that looks so slick a fly would bust it's bunns trying to land on it :D


11-18-2015, 06:03 PM

I checked, his ass is bruised, but not busted... Rectum Non Bustus...


I got bored watching the paint dry, decided to drill holes for the bang strip, I read about using a jig to hold the brass in place, worked like a champ, no sweat....



12-02-2015, 08:09 PM
Figured I'd better post something, I almost slid to page two. Any who, das boat is painted, 5 coats of epifanes light oyster. Rolled and light rolled with a dry roller (no tipping). Painting was a challenge as I was outdoors and it was hot and humid, paint was thinned to 20%, well, two caps in 8ozs...I'm happy with the results though, she looks nice. Got the boat flipped back over....better pics manna...



Ive opted for a bright outer stem for now? Still trying to make my mind up...


Also, imho, if using ply, it seems critical to properly protect the end grain of the CB trunk sides and ensure this area is well sealed and protected. Here is what I did...


Prep...CB slot tapped off, strips of 4oz cloth cut. The groove at this point has been filled and sanded smooth. I wetted the CB sides and then wetted the two strips out on the plastic shown here, then transferred them to the inside of the CB box...


Here the job is complete...after cured, I gave the cloth another coat of epoxy with a foam roller to fill the weave. I will leave it like this for at least one season of good use and then inspect, if all is well I will paint the bottom inside of the box.


12-03-2015, 01:03 PM
Nice. Very thorough. I will be referring to this when the time comes.

Paint looks good!

12-03-2015, 05:49 PM
Some day shots. Moving on to rub rail installation next week...







12-03-2015, 06:42 PM
That looks gorgeous Deke. That stem is totally Norse!

12-03-2015, 06:56 PM
Gracious, the stem still needs final shaping, I just lobbed off the top to flip her. I might trim it down a tad. I plan to rup the bow sprit along side of it. I'll sail her primarily as a balanced lug yawl. But I love bow sprits and I want to have the option of dropping the main completely and sail her under jib and jigger when then conditions dictate. So I will have a small jib that will double as a forward stay and a single running back stay for when I sail with this combination.

12-08-2015, 07:41 PM
Rain rain rain here in the the Keys. Decided to jump on shaping the CB. Also a heads up, the plans have you make the CB 425 mm wide, but the typical foil cross section shown on the plans is 480mm. So be careful where you put the max camber.

Whos that down there...



Shaping 90% complete...


12-08-2015, 09:40 PM
Looking great Deke. I've been following you from the start as I've been working my way through a Navigator. Your method for routing the rudder and CB is genius! It looks infinitely easier than the way I made the centerboard - I'll have to try it when I get to the rudder. Keep it up!


12-09-2015, 09:17 AM
Beautiful! I hope you've got your time off request in for the June 2016 TX200!

12-09-2015, 07:11 PM
Thanks brother...you just might see me there! I don't think she will be ready for the EC which is in March...my new goal is to splash in March. But I need to put some sea miles under our belt before we tackle any expeditions. I. Giving some serious thought to sailing her up the east coast, maybe to Narrangansett Bay.

Wife got a hold of me today for some projects, but still managed a little CB work.

Routed out out a hole for some lead...


I knew that chunk of lead would come in handy someday...its 25lbs some I'm making up the diff with lead shot from my dive weights...


Here is the plan...it will all be well epoxied...I need to make a little more room for rest the lead shot, but I think this should work fine...
The tape was so I could lift it back out, lol, that didn't work, I had to dump it over on a sheet...


12-09-2015, 07:53 PM
Great progress. Up the East Coast to Narragansett Bay will be quite an adventure!

I'm aiming for a mid-April launch with as much time on the water as possible to shake out the wrinkles before heading to Texas.

12-11-2015, 07:42 PM
Got the lower sheer trim piece glued on today. Lots of prepping. Biggest challenge was finding a clamping technique that would work.

First I dry fit the piece and the traced the top edge once I was happy with its location, then taped out both top and bottom to help with squeeze out cleanup...also this clamping method worked good...


Also taped the trim, I plan to keep the trim either oiled and bare (it's teak) and i didn't want any epoxy to soak into it...one nice thing about working outside, no walls...trim is two pieces of teak scarfed, then ripped in half, then treated with a roundover bit...total length 18'....it's 7/8 wide and about 1/2 inch thick...


All clamped up...lots of clean up work afterwards...the sheer which is Sapele, will be varnished, the trim and rub rail will be natural...


Also so glued the lead into the board...the shiny bit is from a brand new dive soft weight, I was about two pounds shy from the 44lbs required...


12-12-2015, 05:55 PM
Side dos...


12-13-2015, 11:33 AM
Looking very pretty. I will 'borrow you jig for drilling the bang strip. I have to comment though - never saw a boat shop with a terra-cotta floor before. . .

12-13-2015, 05:45 PM
Ya that jig made the job easy, I forgot where I saw/read it.

Trim options, need to figure out what treatment I want to give the top of the rub rail.

My plan was to hit the top of the rub rail with a half inch round over lika so...the scrap piece of teak would be the ply deck...


That would work fine except for the transom, it's angle creates a problem...



How it would look planed...


I think I'm leaning towards just giving it a round over, any suggestions?

12-13-2015, 07:47 PM
Mine will be rounded ... not that you should follow my plans.

12-13-2015, 08:00 PM
Haven't thought that far ahead, so I'm no help! Guess I better start thinking about it...

12-13-2015, 08:30 PM
You might be able to find a panel router bit that comes close to this angle. May look better than a simple radius.

12-14-2015, 06:35 PM
Some fairing on the top sheer, deck supports installed...

Notch locations and angles found by running a batten on top of the frames...faired the top of the sheer plank to match the frame angles...


Intersection at B2. Note this frame was made as one piece, triple thick...notch cut made with router...


Mike I finally found use of the inner tube clamp! Thanks for sharing...it held the deck support close until I got the clamp on...




12-15-2015, 11:29 AM
What is the notch in the top of your transom for-- a sculling oar?


Mike I finally found use of the inner tube clamp! Thanks for sharing...it held the deck support close until I got the clamp on...



I got my hull flipped right side up on Saturday and worked on shaping the outer stem. It's finally looking nice. A bit more sanding on that and I can attach my upper rub rails.

12-15-2015, 09:07 PM
I have gone off reservation I recon. It made more since to me to simply notch the transom for the deck support since it will get covered by the transom trim piece. It sure made it easier fitting the support, I just let's make run wild and cut them flush this morning.


I very well may put a sculling notch back there though since I'm motor less.

12-16-2015, 05:58 PM
Since I'm trimming the boat in teak, I had plan on sawing a wide teak board to match the transom curve, I have been eye balling a long 8" wide teak board at the local hardware store for months. Well time has come to make the trim, I would need 8' total, two 4 ft pieces edge glued. So I asked the man, how much is that teak board a ft? $47 a foot he says. Plan B, get the wife's steam mop out....

I have plenty of teak trim, unfortunately none of it is wide. So Plan B is to try and bend a piece of 2" wide teak to match the transom...I let it steam where it need to bend the most using some microwaved rags over the mop and I covered it with a piece of plastic. About every 20 min I put a few turns on the clamps...piping hot rags!


Thank you shark floor steamer, about an hours later...did I say piping hot?


Used the flush trim bit to shape the deck panels. This needed to be done prior to installing the upper rub rail trim. I want to be able to clamp the trim easily. Using the flush bit after the trim goes on wouldn't work...




Merry Christmas fellow wooden boat enthusiast!


12-16-2015, 06:16 PM
Really good stuff, and the lights are very festive! You might try a tall oarlock like from Ducktrap for sculling.


12-18-2015, 11:09 AM
Gorgeous boat and excellent build log deke! Y>

I really love how much you utilize your router. Mine tends to stay attached to the table 99% of the time. I'm gonna have to re-think my usage of it now!

12-18-2015, 06:16 PM
Using the flush trim bit to cut the upper deck panels felt like cheating. Glad I thought to do that before putting on the teak trim.

If the plan is to epoxy the rub rail, the sequence of making the upper panels first using the flush bit and then removing and glueing the trim on appears to have worked out. Doing it this way allowed me to first use the router to quickly make the upper deck panels and then removing them allowed me to use the upper rail to clamp to attach the first piece of trim without using screws. I'm planning to use brass bang strip screwed to the teak trim, so I don't have any issues permanently attaching the teak...


I had to be careful ensuring the trim would be flush with the ply upper deck, I used a scrap piece of the upper deck ply at each clamp to ensure I had it at the correct height, and then I double checked, and then I triple checked before the epoxy set. Success...



Ill be adding another teak stip for a total of 2" for the upper trim. The brass strip will cover the glue line...


shade of knucklehead
12-19-2015, 09:48 AM
looking good

01-14-2016, 08:23 PM
Finally back on the build after the holidays, trying to wrap up the rub rails so I can get the sheer strake varnished.

I had to make the upper rail in two strips because my teak stock is limited. The glue line will be covered with brass bang strip. Each strip first had to be run thru the thickness planer, ripped and scrarfed into one long strip. I also tapered the last three feet at the bow for aesthetics. Also the bottom was given a smaller round over than the top piece.

A glue job of this size requires lots of prep and getting ducks lined up. Up to this point, the teak was acetoned and taped off, clamps spread out. Both the rail strip and the boat were wetted out with straight resin first, then I mixed up batch of peanut butter. I started at the bow and worked aft, this makes getting it right at the stem easier.

Wetted out...


Peanut butter applied to boat using pastry bag...


Getten started...


All clamped up, squeeze out cleaned up...wanted to takes the tape off, but I would have to retape for varnishing so due rail for now...


Got some bling, these are 1" bronze scupper drains from Spartan Marine...test fitting, used a 45deg camfer bit after drilling a 1 1/2 hole...


Sails!! Balanced lug main (142sqft, this was slightly modified from JW's lug plan sold by duckworks ), mizzen and a jib for sailing under jib and jigger after dropping the main...thank you Nat Wilson sail makers!


Rik van der Vaart
01-15-2016, 10:10 AM
Where are you putting the scuppers?

Congrats with the sails! Now you are on a critical path to the ocean...


01-15-2016, 10:22 AM
On the foward deck, just aft of CB access hatch with drain tube leading to the cockpit. Where did you put your forward deck drains? I was considering raising the deck edges about a 1/4" so water slopes to the middle of the boat where those drains will be. Any drain issues discovered since your launch?

For that matter, have any issues come up that you would go back and do differently?

Rik van der Vaart
01-15-2016, 02:21 PM
Where the forward deck, the cb housing and the riser for the seating area join i drilled a large hole (actually two, one on each sides) and gooped in an electrical pvc tube which brings the water back to the cockpit. It works well but the water usually collects on the outer sides while sailing. So the tubes do not do any work until back in the garage when cleaning up. Then it does lead the water to the cockpit where I can scoop or sponge it out. While sailing it would be better to have the forward seawater come into the cockpit. In the future I will make two new holes in the outer areas of the forward deck. I like those scuppers; look clean when installed... Where did you get them?

01-15-2016, 06:01 PM
Those drains are from Spartan Marine, 1" with the backing nut. I bought the other end , the "cockpit exit side" from Jamestown marine because they where about half price, Groco bronze thru hull barbed for those.

I had to glue a double piece under the deck where the drain goes because the locknut needs more than 9mm to make contact, so keep that in mind. They do sell a similar scupper drain that is glassed in place that does not require a locknut.

Thats good info on the drains pooling under sail, I failed to think about draining while heeled. I need to rethink my location. I selected my location for future access for maintenance, I'll have to see how far over I can get my arm.

Rik any other minor issues come up for ya?

Rik van der Vaart
01-16-2016, 04:00 AM
It will be a challenge for me to get the scuppers in but it will improve sailing comfort as water in the boat has to be minimized. There are many things i learned as i went along and all could be taken care of after building. The design is aersome. We have very good boats.
If u have any particular questions u can always send me a message.

01-22-2016, 07:29 PM
More loose ends knocked out. Rudder glued up, finally...

Before finally assembly, the interior pieces that are exposed to the rudder and tiller got 4oz cloth and the weave filled with graphite epoxy mix for additional protection. Also all bolt holes for the pintles were over drilled and filled with thickened epoxy...packers were pre glued awhile back...


The four bolts that cannot be thru bolted were counter sunk and holes epoxy filled...


Starting the glue up, each piece wetted out with unthickened epoxy and then both sides given a even coating of ketchup consistency...


Extreme clean out where the sliding parts go...


Sea Beagle taking a stroll on the foredeck, got downright frigid here in the Keys, mid 50's, brrr...


01-22-2016, 07:53 PM
Gave the rudder a layer of 4oz cloth, one piece...


Debating whether to finish bright...


Transom work, decided I wanted more of an oval shape, made a jig and used the handy flush trim bit...


While doing so, I discovered the center of the keel appeared to be about 1/8th off from a center mark on the original tiller cutout hole. I figure the rudder must be centered with the keel, so I leveled the bottom of the boat and drew a plumb line to the center of the keel. This new line was 1/8th off the original transom center point at the top...


This must be the center for the rudder to hand, I think, if not the rudder would be canted with the boat sitting I the water , albeit only 1/8th. So the new tiller cutout shifted slightly...


Adding sme sme doubler on the deck, two 12mm pieces for the boomkin mount, and starting the seat doublers...


01-23-2016, 10:39 PM
Made a piece to fit into the tiller cutout in transom, I wanted to first protect the end grain in the ply and I also wanted to have an attachment for a canvas or leather tiller boot to keep water from shipping in thru transom, this piece of red cedar fit the bill,

after I stared at this chunk of cedar, I finally picked up a pencil, jig saw and router...


Little router slippage at the top, damnit all, oh well...


Fit nicely...


This ring should make a good attachment for a tiller boot...


Needs a little more cleanup, but otherwise...


01-23-2016, 10:48 PM
Drain decisions have been made, many thanks Rik for the heads up on locations. I decided adding an additional drain in the side corner of B4 for draining while heeled. I have good access to both drains for future maintenance, they will T together and drain into the cockpit...


Got lucky here! Came in just under the floor support. This is a 3" brass tube drain, I found some 6" ones that I will use to give more clamping surface since there aren't any barbs...



01-24-2016, 07:17 PM
So the transom trim has been clamped to the form for about a month now. Easing a clamp revealed some spring back, so I rigged up a another jig to hold its shape while I clamped it.

From a month ago using the wife's floor steamer...


Before removing it it from the jig, I screwed this board to its ends and added a couple of braces...this held the bend nicely...


Glue up was a panic-free non event...


01-28-2016, 07:43 PM
Came up with a hatch seal plan. Decided to go with the bar lock system that others have used. Bungees didn't seem secure enough and multiple dogs around the perimeter seemed too complicated and puts lots of screw holes in the deck.

I wanted to make the handle as flush as possible and tool-less. I didn't like the idea of recessing the handle into the deck because of water pooling in the cutout.

Parts: 6mm ply cutout with hole saw, think I used a 3", 3" length of bronze rod threaded to 5/16 (ordered 3" bolts for the rest of the hatches), teak piece for center of ply, 1" cutout from center of hatch lid and a chunk of red cedar for the bar, two stops for inside the hatch.

Glue up...the center of the bar was over drilled and filled with thickened epoxy, this will be tapped to 5/16 later...rest of the pieces glued together to form the knob...I routed the teak piece with a cove bit prior to glueing and I also chiseled a small slot for the teak piece for additional strength. The 6mm ply plus the 18mm cutout from the hatch gives the bronze bolt plenty of glueing surface, plus I hit the bolt with the grinder and put a flat in it...


So I made a knob and tapped the center of the bar to 5/16...a rubber washer will go around the perimeter of the hole in the center...


Kindaof crappy pic, but it shows the stop piece up inside, there is another on the other side, both are offset...


Here it is assembled and ready for installation, I just need to add gasket material to the hatch lip and rubber washer under the handle on top of the hatch...


Install, it locks down very tight, next to it is a piece of Seadek material I may use for decking , it is almost as thick as the 6mm ply, so the knob will be flush except for the raised teak part...


Profile view of the knob...


01-28-2016, 07:54 PM
Beginning of a tiller...this is a a board from a red cedar tree from an island near Crystal River from my pops saw mill. I don't know if this is desirable material for a tiller, but I be a mess of it, it is very hard stuff, fairly light weight and seems very strong...


A bit more fairing and rounding over, but it is close...more hatch parts in background...



Still need to shape the part out the back, not sure if I will use a wedge there to lock the till in or just put a bronze bolt or pin thru the rudder head...


01-31-2016, 08:05 PM
The knob I made needed some tweaking. The raised portion on top failed to give me a comfortable grip and not enough to leaverage to tighten the hatch down sufficiently after adding gasket material to the hatch. It was also gong to be difficult to get the knobs to all align the same way. I also figured it would be more comfortable to sit on a flat knob rather than one with a raised center.

So here is the new design...it has a much larger diameter and it is a lot easier to grab the sides and turn it opposed to a raised center...another bonus is the seadek material will be able to sit under the upper portion of the knob now giving a cleaner finish...


Should be a lot easier to tighten up snug, could even do so wearing gloves in the cold I reckon...


I made a template to make the rest of the knobs using the flush trim bit. By rough cutting the knob close to the finish size with a jig saw first, the flush bit has less material to remove making it easier to hold on to and easier to cut in general...


The finish nails don't go all the way thru, just enough to hold it in place...yep, I just laid the router upside down on the table saw...low speed on the router worked better, easier to control...


Hopefulley it will pass inspection tomorrow, I'd rather not have to redesign again, Devils in those details...


01-31-2016, 11:11 PM
So you're putting your seat hatches on the seat tops instead of the vertical seat fronts?

02-01-2016, 07:14 AM
Ya, seem more useful as a storage hatch that way. Drawback being scallywags may have to sit on my hatch knob, but I sail single handed more than with guests. I specifically put the cockpit hatches farther forward from where I think I'll be sitting, also forward from where the boomkin fitting is. Also I put a hatch in the very back by the transom since I'm not building a motor well.

Plus there is a hatch just in front of the transom....


Edward Pearson
02-01-2016, 08:13 AM
The horizontal hatches will make access easier, but I'd make real sure the hatch seals are effective, tested and maintained. When the boat is on it's side, the water level will submerge the hatches placed there, and seapage enhanced due to water pressure increase under the surface could flood the side tank, at worst. Most hatches, even commercial ones, aren't actually fully sealed when tested. This is why some opt for placement in vertical cockpit sides further inboard and as shown, which will be higher with respect to the new water level when the boat is on it's side. Just water won't drain either if the bottom is sealed with a top opener. Vivier does something interesting by actually having a flooding semi open top and bottom drain and fills the hole space with encapsulated closed cell foam, but that's a reflection of the French CE demands perhaps and looses storage. The gasket has to seal but also cope with non flatness or warpage of any faying surfaces, which is why the shop purchased plastic lid ones don't always seal. A bit of grease on the seal may help too. Re the lock down turnbuckles. They look quite large and I'd consider if it's a trip hazard walking on the side seats if your line handling, or someone else is. Nice boat and a great design.

02-01-2016, 07:01 PM
No doubt, agreed. Watertight is critical. Main reason I chose this design, lots of built in flotation. Some good thoughts, thanks for the input.

tested out the new knob today. I am much happier with it. It is much easier to grib and no problems getting the hatch nice and tight. I like that I will be able to trim the seadek under the knob. I don't think there is much of a trip hazard, functionality and ease of use trumps. The neoprene seal is getting good compression all around.


This is just a quick test seal, actual seal will be better fitted...


Will trim out nicely with the seadek...ill fair the top of the hatch flush to the deck after final seal choices are made rather than routing a groove I the hatch...


CK 17
02-02-2016, 02:26 AM
I used that hatch design on my wife's outer island and our ck 17. They were both water tight. Both have been on their side. I did replace the neoprene every few years.

02-10-2016, 08:24 PM
Few updates just to keep off the dreaded page two...starting to seal the decks up. Little bit stressful, kinda like putting up Sheetrock, you hope you have everything well thought thru and ready to be permanently sealed. Filling screw holes, painting, drain plumbing, tie down planning, hatch finalization and lots of vacuuming.

i decided to add an extra floor support...the one in the middle...I noticed little flexing walking around on the unglued decks, so, just to be sure, I adding another cross member..she is real solid now...


One last look before she is sealed up...hopefully you can follow the drain plan, there are two drains per side draining water from the upper deck to the cockpit. The cockpit will be the bail point, no drains overboard, no holes in the boat besides the CB box top and the tiller cutout and these will be sealed too.


Painted the storage areas with Totalboat bilge paint. In hindsight, I think epoxy mixed with graphite would have been better...also, on at least three seperate occasions, I very carefully looked over the bilge areas for any un filled nail or screw holes and made sure every thing had been well saturated with epoxy...


A look at the panel before it goes down...the doublers are for the floor drain and I wanted to beef up the area where I'm planning on keeping a 17# fishermans anchor strapped to the deck...all is well epoxied, especially the end grain...


Action shot...stay calm...


Deck is solid as a rock, glued and screwed with 3/4" bronze screws... the boat got a lot stouter today...again I have to say well done JW, with each major step you can feel the strength of the boat multiply, your boat designmanship is awesome...


02-11-2016, 10:29 AM
What adhesive are you using? It looks like PL Premium?


02-11-2016, 02:18 PM
MAS epoxy thickened with wood flour.

02-11-2016, 02:58 PM
how did you apply it in beads Deke?

02-11-2016, 03:09 PM
how did you apply it in beads Deke?

I like the disposable pastry decorating bags (http://www.amazon.com/DayMark-IT115435-Hand-E-Grip-Disposable-Dispenser/dp/B00RWZIDQO/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1455221157&sr=1-1&keywords=disposable+pastry+bags). They give great control when you need to coax the goop into a seam or crevice while keeping everything else tidy. You can also just fill a ziploc sandwich baggie and clip a corner to your desired size.


02-11-2016, 08:04 PM
With a pastry bag... I bought a roll of those pastry bags at the start of the build, still haven't used the whole roll but I'm getting close. Moman is right, the pastry bags are the way to go. A little trick I do is , after I twist the end up tight, I roll a few wraps of masking tape around the end so I don't have to sweat it coming unrolled and loosening up as I use it, especially after my gloves get epoxy on them and get sloppy.

Shot of a strapping bar inside of the main storage hatch next to the CB, this will be used to secure water jugs...


Getting the dory ready for the Everglades Challenge, just three weeks away!!...



02-11-2016, 08:33 PM
The Everglades Challenge! Cool. I hope you write about it again.

Good Luck


02-12-2016, 04:43 PM
Since we got on the subject of filleting, here's how I typically get a smooth fillet, as learned from the folks at CLC ...

After dispensing with the pastry bag, and initially cornering work is complete without he plastic west system sticks, I am left with a decent looking but lumpy fillet...


After about thirty minutes, when the fillet starts to gel, I go back and run a plastic gloved finger dipped in denatured alcohol over it, start with a light touch and if you feel any friction, dip your finger back in the alcohol, you should be able to smooth out and shape your fillet easily...

Top of this fillet has been hit with the glove and alcohol, the bottom of it hasn't...


Finished fillet...


02-13-2016, 07:19 AM
Neat trick! Thanks.

Dory looks cool. Any daggerboard tricks up your sleeve? I have one hole drilled in mine to hold it about one-third up for shallow conditions
I've had some "exciting" moments approaching a beach in a breeze.


02-13-2016, 07:43 AM
Neat trick! Thanks.

Dory looks cool. Any daggerboard tricks up your sleeve? I have one hole drilled in mine to hold it about one-third up for shallow conditions
I've had some "exciting" moments approaching a beach in a breeze.


Mike, back IN THE DAY... when some of us were campaigning SUNFISH, we would just run a bungee around the back side of the daggerboard

kinda like the current treatment for the cassette rudders

on my FORCE 5, i had a bungee snapped to the top of the DAGGERBOARD leading fwd around the mast

same results w/ both methods

painted horizontal stripes told us how deep we were running

no pin to remove



02-13-2016, 10:22 AM
I use a bungee to hold it down, and for keeping it up in shallows, I have a plastic clamp I clamp to it in the front, works great, no holes to drill. I'll take some pics today going sailing.

02-13-2016, 07:59 PM
CB down...


Up...simple, but effective and infinitely adjustable depth....


Oar retainment system...


02-25-2016, 06:55 PM
Started glassing the forward deck...





03-04-2016, 08:26 PM
Everglades Challenge starts tomorrow. I'll be leaving FT Desoto at sunrise. Here is the link to the tracking map if anyone wants to follow, I'm the little yellow box that says DEKE




03-10-2016, 04:11 PM
Well the EC this year was very humbling, I made it as far as CP2, Everglades City, before I had to accept defeat. I enjoyed a nice north wind for the first two days and made good progress, then ran into 20-25 winds from the SE. Too risky for me to consider going around PT sable in those conditions, I tried my hand at rowing inside and found the task too difficult in those conditions in the dory. I only made 8 miles hard rowing a full day in strong headwinds and choppy shallow water. I figured it would be 5 days of hard rowing thru the wilderness waterway to cover the 60 miles to CP 3 and make it to flamingo, all straight into the wind, too much for me. Maybe next year.

A few pics...

The start...


Coming into Gordon Pass from the gulf just north of Big Marco at sunset, day 2, I had covered about 130 miles at this point in 36hrs...


Morning sunrise sail down the Marco river early the next morning ....


Now back back to boat building!!!

03-10-2016, 04:28 PM
I checked in on the site you listed. You got further than I would have, so congratulations on that!

03-12-2016, 07:17 AM
Still impressive Deke. I assume that next time will be in a Pathfinder, and that would change your approach considerably, as she's better to sail but worse to row?

03-12-2016, 08:15 PM
Thanks fellas. The Pathfinder would do well in the EC, but I think it would be better as a two man boat for that event, it would be difficult as a solo boat if there are any days without wind and lots of rowing is required.

The award ceremonies were held today, congrats to everyone that made it, there are some really tough folks that do this race. I think the winning solo monohaul was a core sound mk3, a triber named Roo, awesome job in some very tough sailing the last three days.

03-13-2016, 10:48 AM
Congrats on getting as far as you did, indeed! That photo of you coming in at sunset sent a thrill of fear down my spine. Were you concerned about the oncoming darkness and the distance you still had to go before camping for the night?

Goodonya for trying something many of us just think about doing.


boat fan
03-13-2016, 02:33 PM

I like it !

03-13-2016, 07:15 PM
Unless there is a good reason to stay out in the Gulf, making great time or maybe trying to make a checkpoint or trying to stay ahead of weather, I typically try to get inside for night. Especially if the forecast is for 2-3's or 10-15 knots, I prefer to get inside. Besides nothing good happens in unfamiliar passes after dark.

No doubt, to finish the EC, you have to willing to travel long distances (avg 50-60 nm/day) and possibly be out in open water all night.

The brave tribers that finished this year had to sail into a SE 20-25 knot headwind in open water from Choko around PT Sable into Flamingo, some or all of it at night. In those conditions in 10 ft of water you will have 4-6' standing waves. No easy task, what an awesome accomplishment for those guys, and gal. Congrats to them!

03-15-2016, 08:32 PM
Ok, I am not playing fair, I decided to have my mast and spars built by Geoff Kerr from 2 Daughters Boat Works. They arrived today, and wow, fantastic job Geoff, I am very happy with them! I'm ok with skipping this step, having made the mast and spars for the dory. This will allow me to stay focused on the boat and hopefully have her commissioned by June.

From here, I will be adding mast steps, boomkin fittings and then paint the interior. After that the last bigs steps are adding the upper decks and the combing. Then it should just be trim work and final fitting. But having a Geoff help with these saves me a lot of work and will get me on the water quicker.

All are Sitka spruce...




One last look at the plumbing before it is all sealed up, both rear deck panels have now been glued and screwed and filleted...I've ensured that I have good access to all fittings for future maintenance if required...


03-16-2016, 09:01 AM
AAaack! You've not only leapfrogged my progress, but the quality of those spars will put my d-fir spars to shame! Well, if it helps ensure that you make it to the TX200 in time, I guess I'm OK with that. And I don't envy the labor, materials and shipping bills you received for it all.

BTW, what finish is on them?

Ok, I am not playing fair, I decided to have my mast and spars built by Geoff Kerr from 2 Daughters Boat Works.

03-16-2016, 01:02 PM
They have a coat of epoxy followed by 5 coats of varnish, interlux schooner I believe, and the white tips are petit easy poxy.

Hmmmm, Texas 200, you never know.

03-21-2016, 11:59 AM
I hope i didnt misunderstand your pm, but heres how my halyard blocks are hung....

I note your lovely new spars do not have a shoulder at the masthead, but you could always use the same method, and just add some horn cleats, or even pad eyes. I used a shoulder as it completely eliminates any hardware or fastenings. Hope that helps. Ian

03-21-2016, 08:14 PM
Awesome, thanks. Ya, was going to add a wooden mast hound or horn to catch the strap. Now with your setup, does the block hang on the aft side of the mast with the block running athwart ships ? What do you use to attach the halyard to the top yard? I'm planning to use a ring with parrel beads around the mast that is attached to the halyard and have a hook on that to attach to the top yard.

Why two blocks?

03-21-2016, 09:10 PM
Ok managed to accomplish a minor step that I have been putting off, the rear upper deck. I've been needing to get this piece on so I can line up the holes for the mizzen between the upper and lower deck in order to place the mizzen mast step so that I can permanently attach rear lower deck. Wow that was a mouthful.

But before I did that I did this...easier access...

So now that I have a finished boomkin, I was able to trim the cutout for fit. First I had to cut some angle into the cutout sides to get the boomkin to slide thru at the proper angle so the end of the boomkin would hit 200mm from boat center and the front of the boomkin would be on the boomkin mount. Then I used some pieces of the trim and leather that I plan to use to line the cutout with to get the cutout to the right size. This took several back and forth goes with a Shinto and had to open the hole about a 1/4 inch all the way around...


Next the actual pieces I plan to attach are test fitted...the cut up stir stick represents leather wrapping around the boomkin...


Here the teak trim pieces to cover the end grain are being glued in...tomorrow i will sand and make flush...


I used the T square to locate the end of boomkin....seemed too easy, but I can't think of a reason why this should be accurate...


Part two...attaching upper deck...

Prior to install, the side trim pieces are already set so they will be flush with the upper deck, the rear trim piece will be trimmed be flush with the deck...test fitting...


Glued and screwed, now I will cut the curve using a batten and then add the doublers and carlins now that I have a defined bow on the front of this piece...you can see the rough lines...now the mizzen mast cutout can be accurately located in bothe upper and lower decks and the mizzen step can be located...


03-22-2016, 02:19 AM
Awesome, thanks. Ya, was going to add a wooden mast hound or horn to catch the strap. Now with your setup, does the block hang on the aft side of the mast with the block running athwart ships ? What do you use to attach the halyard to the top yard? I'm planning to use a ring with parrel beads around the mast that is attached to the halyard and have a hook on that to attach to the top yard.

Why two blocks?

Main halyard hangs off port side, the other block is used as a spinnaker halyard or spare for mainsail. I have a parrel bead line, tied off below a block attatched to the yard strop on a snap hook, line goes around mast then through the small block and up to the masthead. The block on the yard is really not needed, and i could have a few extra inches of hoist height if the line just goes through the snaphook. I have found this system is really liable to blow away when lowering in windy conditions if you dont get it down quick. My mast being square section would need quite a large diameter ring at the bottom end, and there would be much slack at the top when hoisted (probably not a big issue in real world), but the line system does keep everything snug. I have been meaning to build another, taller mast; and if i get round to talking my elbows into it, would make it round (ish) with little taper and use a ring with a hook for the yard. Even a slippery rope with a toggle fastening or even a strop of velcro can make an alternative to a metal ring. I think i may have got my set up from the Storer website, which is worth a read if you have not already.


03-24-2016, 07:09 PM
Rear upper deck complete. It's three layers of 6mm ply.

I just let the front set whatever arc it wanted...


With the first piece set and now having a defined arc, each subsequent layer was glued individually... With two layers of 6mm, there was still small amount of flex in the deck...


All three layers glued here, zero flex now...I gave it a bit of bevel for sitting comfort...


With the the upper deck fixed in place, I can now start the process of cutting a hole for mizzen...


03-24-2016, 08:20 PM
How difficult is it to cut two 3" holes perfectly aligned and at 8deg angle on a curved surface? Well it took me about 5 hours.

My selection of professional tools...I am quite sure there is an easier way...


First i I had to drill a small hole in the correct spot (note there are two different numbers for this, 180mm and 200mm from centerline, depending on which sheet you reference). This hole needs to be drilled plumb and at the same angle as the transom (8 deg)...I jerry rigged my retarded drill guide, this tool is junk...I tried to just eyeball the angle using that stick...


That first hole came out close, I used a small wooden dowel to check it...now that I had a hole in the correc spot in the upper deck I used a plumb bob to locate a spot on the lower deck, confident that I had a good mark now on the lower deck that was exactly plumb with the upper hole, I rigged up a jig to hold the drill at the same angle as the transom and a square sitting behind the drill to eyeball plumb and drilled a 3 inch hole with a hole saw...the I used the same method to cut the upper hole at 8deg...I got lucky!! it came out damn near perfect..a level in the holes shows that there edges are perfectly plumb and the level matches the rake of the trim...note I'm overdrilling the diameter to allow for teak trim and leather...


With the holes drilled, I permanently attached the remaining deck piece. All decks attached! With the hatch in the rear deck, I have easy access to the mizzen step, which I will glued in place when I get the boat out in the open and I can put the actual mizzen in...hard to believe that was a day's work...


Last nights homework...learning to calculate the CE of a lug sail and then the combined CoE with the mizzen. The plan sheet for the B-Lug does not have a combined CoE for the mizzen, even though the DWs website leads you to believe that is what you are buying. Had I not caught this mistake, my combined CE would have been aft of the CG...this was my first try at calculating this, so I will do it again in a couple of days to check for errors, but right now it looks like the mast will need to go just aft of B1, looks like the mizzen shifts the CoE aft about 5-600mm.

Whats difficult, is knowing how to draw the sail with the mast, I used a 30% pick point and drew the mast plumb to the frames and I tried to keep the same amount of sail in front of the mast, tilting the sail changes the CE in relation to the boat...


03-27-2016, 07:42 PM
Mast step pieces...teak and red cedar...




All the cockpit doublers are installed now, final shaping complete and decks are filleted, just need to glass aft decks...


03-27-2016, 07:59 PM
Had a fun Easter sailing my work bench around the yard...


I am still trying to figure out where to put the mast, I marked where I believe the approximate combined CE is with a piece of tape and hung a string from it to see where it hits the boom. This pick point may not be far enough aft, but I think it's close, I couldn't really sheet the sail and put tension on it to see if I had a peak to tack crease because my bench was somewhere between a reach and close hauled with 10-15 knots and I think it would have sailed out the driveway! It's a big lug sail...130sqft!

Forward pick point...


Aft pick point...just the weight of the sail and spars put a slight rake in the mast...


Trying to determine where the combined CE hits the boom (this boom is not the actual boom, but was easier to write on and mark up)...it looks the even if I put the mast right up to B1, it farthest fwd location, the combine CE and CLR at going to be on top of each other, no lead...also the front of the sail will be in line with the bow...


03-30-2016, 07:23 PM
Started working on the mast slot and king plank. The slot I designed for the unstayed B-lug mast will consist of two 12mm ply piece on each side topped with a cypress 1x plank and deck over with 6 mm ply. This is different from the plans.


Top view, lines drawn for the combing line and mast slot to make stepping the mast easier. Provision are being made so the boat can easily be converted to the gaff yawl rig...forward slot is for the B-lug, the rear would be where the gaff would go...


Side view, the two 12mm ply stringers should significantly strengthen the upper deck for mast support and also give me a nice sleeve to help step the mast...


Getting an accurate mast diameter with leather where the mast passes thru the deck...


Mast step top will be epoxied to a ply base pad. This will protect the floor (seadek) while stepping the mast and also allow mast step adjustment if required...


Sea Beagle standing her first watch...


03-31-2016, 04:27 PM
Looking very good!

03-31-2016, 07:30 PM
Floors are all glassed! Tomorrow I start the painting process for the interior , I'll be using Total Boat Bristol Beige. I wanted to paint the insides before securing the upper deck to have easier access.







Rich Jones
03-31-2016, 08:30 PM
A fine looking job!

04-12-2016, 09:29 PM
Interior paint prep is now complete. A new technique I started doing is any areas where I over sanded thru the expoxy and got back to bare ply, I hit again with some fresh expoxy, but then I wipe all the excess with a paper towel immediately. This minimizes resanding and prevents uneven areas, works great. My goal for the interior finish about a four foot finish, I'll be using a flattening agent on the final coat so that should hide any rough spots. Interior sanding is about as fun as digging a hole in the Florida keys.

Interior paint starts manna!!

My grab rail and beer holder...


Mizzen step, a base pad is permanently epoxied, then the fitting will be epoxied to this. If I ever need to repair or replace it, I'll just slice it off the pad with a Japanese saw. No need to screw this to the deck, nothing good comes from putting a screw into a plywood deck... I made this piece wider than the plans call for, so I can slide the boomkin forward thru the step if necessary...ill make some removable spacers to fill the gap when I design the pin system...I used a big t square off the transom to line up the end of the boomkin and locate the step...


What the heck?...


04-13-2016, 07:32 PM
Managed to get a coat of Bristol beige on today, I think is will take 4 coats to cover well. I'm happy with the overall smoothness. But somehow I forgot to paint the forward locker?


While the paint was drying I decided to tackle the CB sheave, this is not per JWs plans. I'm hoping a 3:1 advantage will be sufficient...

A pic from awhile ago...





Practice pattern helped...


shade of knucklehead
04-20-2016, 12:55 AM
She is coming along nicely

04-21-2016, 06:42 PM
After the second coat of Bristol Beige, I just wasn't happy with the the color. I didn't like the match up with my Seadek choice and it just seemed to loud for me.

I switched to Petit Sandstone and I am much happier with it.

Bristol Beige...





04-22-2016, 08:18 PM
These mini 2" rollers worked really well painting the inside where there are lots of corners and such...they held up very well too, I was able to get thru the whole inside with just one. Also the smooth foam required no tipping , just a light roll over after spreading the paint even...got them from Amazon ...


Made some more knobs while the paint was drying...


Working out the details of a platform in the front part of the cockpit to house the compass and provide a storage shelf to its sides. It would be nice to have a proper beer holder and maybe a secure place to set the sextant box while taking a sight. Yes the compass template is true to size and is pointing proper, I'm not a fan of small chintzy compasses. The compass I'm looking at has 5" diameter and the base is 7 1/2".


Come on dad get'er done so we go sailing!


04-26-2016, 10:58 AM

Hey Tom-- Can you post the outside diameters of all your spars please? I'm prepping to make my boom and mizzen boom and the plans only list aluminum dimensions. Also, is your boom solid or birdsmouth?

I got primer on the fore/ side decks. Paint is next!



04-26-2016, 07:29 PM
Sure thing brother, I'll get that for you tomorrow. The boom, mizzen mast, mizzen boom and all spars are solid Sitka. My top spar for the balanced lug sail is oval, not round.

Finally, I have completed inside painting! I just have touch up left where I tapped off for the upper deck to be glued down. Now I can finish the upper decks and combings. Then it's just trim work and outfitting my friends. I'm gonna shoot hard for a commisioning by June.

The last coat was mixed 1.5 to 1, flattening agent to paint...I'm digging the satin finish inside, imperfections are less noticeable...lessons learned using flattening agent...1. Continue to stir the mix in the cup as you roll it on, it tends to seperate from the paint a bit. 2. I mixed one large batch of paint rather than mutlitple small batches so that I would have a uniform finish. ..


Two weeks, that's about how long it took to prep and paint the inside with 5 coats, last one being flattened...eager to finish the build now...no more glare!




Paint dried quick today, so I was able to start putting the precut upper deck on...


I put my joints on top of my doubled up frames...note the areas I taped off for future epoxy work...


04-26-2016, 07:42 PM
I have stopped trying to get the screws holes flush. The ply tends to suck epoxy as it cures and leaves a low spot which I typically come back and fill. Now I just leave it proud and hit it with my rasp. It is very quick and saves time...


This took about 10 secs to level. Bonus, the rasp shavings are large, no dust like you get with sanding...



Found these little bronze beauties on eBay...


04-27-2016, 07:30 PM
Mike - here are the spar deminsions for my build, keep in mind it's for the balanced lug yawl sail plan:

Main boom is 2 1/2 inches in the middle and tapers to 2" at ends.

Top Yard is oval and it is 2 3/8 tall, just over 1 1/2 wide, and tapers to 1 1/2 tall at ends

Mizzen boom is 1 1/2 in the middle and tapers 1 1/4

All are solid Sitka, only the main mast is birds mouth.

Cheers brother!

04-27-2016, 09:37 PM
Thanks man!

04-28-2016, 08:07 PM
Some big pieces attached today. Much can go wrong with these additions, so it was a little uneasy glueing them on for good. Fingers crossed.

This piece isn't in the plans, but I need a solid mast suppor/upper deck beefing. It is two pieces of 12mm Sapele with a team trim piece on the bottom. I also added a hand hold for lifting yourself up from a nice nights rest in the forward state room and some gear loops for hanging light and such...


These should help the mast into position and provide some solid lateral bracing. With B2 triple thick and B1 double thick plus these extra deck supports I hope to have created a super stout upper deck...

Next was the king plank with the mast slot cut out...cypress...




04-28-2016, 08:20 PM
Is it just me or did she just get a little more attitude...


My nice tidy glue station...


Typical day...

Stern trim detail...


04-29-2016, 07:02 AM
Awesome! Thanks for showing the flattening agent. Did it work well? I'll probably use Kirby low-lustre, but it's good to have options.

04-29-2016, 08:09 PM
It worked great. I was a little uneasy about it at first because the flattening agent looks like and has the consistency of varnish, but when mixed with the paint it looks and acts like the paint. The was the first time using it, but I think it helps to keep stirring your mix well. The can has the ratios to mix it to depending on what level of gloss you want, I got lucky because it pretty much came out satin which is what I wanted. I mixed it a bit over 1:1, maybe 1.5:1, flattener to paint.

04-30-2016, 09:14 PM
Completed the upper decks. Just the combings to go!

My biggest issue with putting the forward decks on was cure time. It's been in the upper 80s and a glue job this size, it cures fast, even if I get it spread out fast. I barely had time to cleanup squeeze out. I tried to get as much done before hand and have everything laid out ready to go to advoid the epoxy panic. Drilling the ply before hand helps.


Took a lot of leverage to get the ply flat in the middle...


Lots of clamping options though,


Next day day other side....



04-30-2016, 09:31 PM
Had to sand out a small lip there in front, but other wise it all worked well and came out nice. I put way more epoxy than required along the king plank to make sure I wouldn't have any voids in case I had issues getting that last bit perfectly flush. Lots of squeeze out, so it's solid.




The grab handles work great...ill be adding fillets next...


All cleaned up with the trim bit...I think I like the front area squared off rather than rounded...


05-02-2016, 04:46 AM

05-10-2016, 07:46 PM
Getting the combings installed this week. They are made out of Sapele and will be finished bright...

Getting the rough shape using a stiff batten and some large paint stir sticks. I just screwed them right to the batten and marked each frame...I didn't worry about the getting the height perfect here. After I got the rough shape, I clamped it to the boat and marked how high I want the combing at each frame and the used a batten...


Final shape after scarfing and fairing. I took this opportunity to use the flush trim bit to make a duplicate. I made the combing 20mm at stern, 30 in middle, and 60 at b2, and about 100 at bow. Plus it will bet a 10mm teak trim piece on top.

Mike, how in the world you steamed a solid piece of mahogany into this banana shape I can't even imagine, well done sir...


Few loose ends before installing the combing, I cut a groove into top of B2 and upper deck for a piece of teak trim to cover some end grain and for appearance...


Also, I had to cut a recess into the mast slot for the lid, I'm gonna make the mast gate in a similar fashion as I did my hatches. I wouldn't of had the room to do this after installing the combing...last minute save...


Glue is curing fast these days, and I didn't want to make a mess pre applying glue and then trying to clamp the piece in place, so I wetted out both surfaces then clamped the pice into place without thickened epoxy, then used wedges create a gap at each frame. With everything preset, I mixed glue and shot it into the gap with a pastry bag, popped out the wedges and clamped into place...


All clamped up, the tape is there because I let the end run wild and will trim it off tomorrow , other side manna, then I'll be adding another strip of 9mm on the outside making the combing a total of 18mm...


05-11-2016, 08:48 AM
Mike, how in the world you steamed a solid piece of mahogany into this banana shape I can't even imagine, well done sir...

'twas a foolish experiment that came with a cost (time and frustration). Not sure it was worth it, but the deed is done. And it looks decent. I'm still hoping a little sun exposure will even out the shading of the grain variations.