Any opinions for/against Cover-It shelters?

[Ethan]

...as seen here (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/ak/Paint_Supplies/Cover_It_Tents/Shelters_Tents_fam/index.html) ?

Considering one as a short term fix/solution and am wondering if anybody can attest to their quality, etc. Price seems a little high to me - after all it's just a tent, right?

Thanks for your thoughts.

[Ethan]

...as seen here (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/ak/Paint_Supplies/Cover_It_Tents/Shelters_Tents_fam/index.html) ?

Considering one as a short term fix/solution and am wondering if anybody can attest to their quality, etc. Price seems a little high to me - after all it's just a tent, right?

Thanks for your thoughts.

[Ethan]

...as seen here (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/ak/Paint_Supplies/Cover_It_Tents/Shelters_Tents_fam/index.html) ?

Considering one as a short term fix/solution and am wondering if anybody can attest to their quality, etc. Price seems a little high to me - after all it's just a tent, right?

Thanks for your thoughts.

[Meerkat]

Have you checked out Stimson Marine's bow-roof shelters? Plans are $18.

http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/bowroof.html

[Meerkat]

Have you checked out Stimson Marine's bow-roof shelters? Plans are $18.

http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/bowroof.html

[Meerkat]

Have you checked out Stimson Marine's bow-roof shelters? Plans are $18.

http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/bowroof.html

[John of Phoenix]

Yeah, a bit pricey. Costco has something similar, like a portable single car garage, for about $130.

Are you thinking storage or shop? How big do you need it?

[John of Phoenix]

Yeah, a bit pricey. Costco has something similar, like a portable single car garage, for about $130.

Are you thinking storage or shop? How big do you need it?

[John of Phoenix]

Yeah, a bit pricey. Costco has something similar, like a portable single car garage, for about $130.

Are you thinking storage or shop? How big do you need it?

[kc8pql]

I built a 25 X 45 x 20 high bowshed based on Stimson's design for a little over $1000. 10 years ago. It's still standing and in prety good shape.

[kc8pql]

I built a 25 X 45 x 20 high bowshed based on Stimson's design for a little over $1000. 10 years ago. It's still standing and in prety good shape.

[kc8pql]

I built a 25 X 45 x 20 high bowshed based on Stimson's design for a little over $1000. 10 years ago. It's still standing and in prety good shape.

[Ethan]

Hmmm...that's a good piece of feedback on the bowshed - might have to consider that option some more. Kc8pql, is that your shed on Buelhler's site?

John, I'd characterize the need as a combo work area/storage area. The boat's footprint is 28x8, so that plus room to move around and work - say 36x16 (sound reasonable?)? The "shop" will be an adjacent building - more for security of the bigger power tools. I'd like the shelter to be a place to work on the boat out of the weather - and possibly store some other stuff in the corners if it has enough room.

How sturdy are the Costco carports? Would they, say, survive 2 years of storms, etc if I secured the legs to rebar or fenceposts?

Thanks for the replies - anybody else want to weigh in?

[Ethan]

Hmmm...that's a good piece of feedback on the bowshed - might have to consider that option some more. Kc8pql, is that your shed on Buelhler's site?

John, I'd characterize the need as a combo work area/storage area. The boat's footprint is 28x8, so that plus room to move around and work - say 36x16 (sound reasonable?)? The "shop" will be an adjacent building - more for security of the bigger power tools. I'd like the shelter to be a place to work on the boat out of the weather - and possibly store some other stuff in the corners if it has enough room.

How sturdy are the Costco carports? Would they, say, survive 2 years of storms, etc if I secured the legs to rebar or fenceposts?

Thanks for the replies - anybody else want to weigh in?

[Ethan]

Hmmm...that's a good piece of feedback on the bowshed - might have to consider that option some more. Kc8pql, is that your shed on Buelhler's site?

John, I'd characterize the need as a combo work area/storage area. The boat's footprint is 28x8, so that plus room to move around and work - say 36x16 (sound reasonable?)? The "shop" will be an adjacent building - more for security of the bigger power tools. I'd like the shelter to be a place to work on the boat out of the weather - and possibly store some other stuff in the corners if it has enough room.

How sturdy are the Costco carports? Would they, say, survive 2 years of storms, etc if I secured the legs to rebar or fenceposts?

Thanks for the replies - anybody else want to weigh in?

[Bill Perkins]

Ethan ,without snow loads or prolonged cold I think it can be kept very simple in the South .Shown is my shed : 16 ft. rafters with a 1.5/12 slope supporting a common house tarp .It's already survived some rough weather .

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid167/p7a57acccdd9a386d8a29083e37c47b7d/f436818a.jpg

[ 07-07-2005, 10:19 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Bill Perkins]

Ethan ,without snow loads or prolonged cold I think it can be kept very simple in the South .Shown is my shed : 16 ft. rafters with a 1.5/12 slope supporting a common house tarp .It's already survived some rough weather .

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid167/p7a57acccdd9a386d8a29083e37c47b7d/f436818a.jpg

[ 07-07-2005, 10:19 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Bill Perkins]

Ethan ,without snow loads or prolonged cold I think it can be kept very simple in the South .Shown is my shed : 16 ft. rafters with a 1.5/12 slope supporting a common house tarp .It's already survived some rough weather .

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid167/p7a57acccdd9a386d8a29083e37c47b7d/f436818a.jpg

[ 07-07-2005, 10:19 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Figment]

28'x8' is my boat's size, and I'm in a 38x16 stimson shed.

Powerboat or sail? This matters with a stimson because you lose width rapidly as the bows come to a peak. My deck height is roughly 8' off the ground, so I had to build 2' kneewalls to have adequate workspace at that height. I wish I'd built 3' kneewalls.

I think Bill makes a good point, though. If snow load isn't a concern, a boxier shape makes more sense than a bow-roof shed.

I personally have a bone to pick with "Cover-It" because of a little thing where they were caught illegally dumping hazardous waste a few years ago.

[Figment]

28'x8' is my boat's size, and I'm in a 38x16 stimson shed.

Powerboat or sail? This matters with a stimson because you lose width rapidly as the bows come to a peak. My deck height is roughly 8' off the ground, so I had to build 2' kneewalls to have adequate workspace at that height. I wish I'd built 3' kneewalls.

I think Bill makes a good point, though. If snow load isn't a concern, a boxier shape makes more sense than a bow-roof shed.

I personally have a bone to pick with "Cover-It" because of a little thing where they were caught illegally dumping hazardous waste a few years ago.

[Figment]

28'x8' is my boat's size, and I'm in a 38x16 stimson shed.

Powerboat or sail? This matters with a stimson because you lose width rapidly as the bows come to a peak. My deck height is roughly 8' off the ground, so I had to build 2' kneewalls to have adequate workspace at that height. I wish I'd built 3' kneewalls.

I think Bill makes a good point, though. If snow load isn't a concern, a boxier shape makes more sense than a bow-roof shed.

I personally have a bone to pick with "Cover-It" because of a little thing where they were caught illegally dumping hazardous waste a few years ago.

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Ethan:
Kc8pql, is that your shed on Buelhler's site?
Yeah, that's mine.

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Ethan:
Kc8pql, is that your shed on Buelhler's site?
Yeah, that's mine.

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Ethan:
Kc8pql, is that your shed on Buelhler's site?
Yeah, that's mine.

[raycon]

I just gave away a cover-it car port. No issues with it. They do get hot as heck inside.
Also have a stimson bow shed suppose to be using it for a greenhouse but right now its home for a planer,joiner,bandsaw and a few other items. I have the bowshed on a black locust/white oak deck its pretty comfy. Both the bow shed and the car ports have withstood 18" snow falls and 50mph winds. The car port I broomed off after a major snowfall the bow shed I just let it be the sliding snow appears to reinforce the arch structure in the right place.
I'd think either a bowshed or cover-it type structure would see 100 degrees+ daily temps inside if not put up under a shade tree in your area.
What are you looking to cover?

[raycon]

I just gave away a cover-it car port. No issues with it. They do get hot as heck inside.
Also have a stimson bow shed suppose to be using it for a greenhouse but right now its home for a planer,joiner,bandsaw and a few other items. I have the bowshed on a black locust/white oak deck its pretty comfy. Both the bow shed and the car ports have withstood 18" snow falls and 50mph winds. The car port I broomed off after a major snowfall the bow shed I just let it be the sliding snow appears to reinforce the arch structure in the right place.
I'd think either a bowshed or cover-it type structure would see 100 degrees+ daily temps inside if not put up under a shade tree in your area.
What are you looking to cover?

[raycon]

I just gave away a cover-it car port. No issues with it. They do get hot as heck inside.
Also have a stimson bow shed suppose to be using it for a greenhouse but right now its home for a planer,joiner,bandsaw and a few other items. I have the bowshed on a black locust/white oak deck its pretty comfy. Both the bow shed and the car ports have withstood 18" snow falls and 50mph winds. The car port I broomed off after a major snowfall the bow shed I just let it be the sliding snow appears to reinforce the arch structure in the right place.
I'd think either a bowshed or cover-it type structure would see 100 degrees+ daily temps inside if not put up under a shade tree in your area.
What are you looking to cover?

[pipefitter]

We have one of those costco tents and the material covering it is heavier than normal polytarp.The zipper door works well too. We use a belt driven box fan attached to a same sized wooden duct into an opening made in the rear cover. It flat moves some air through that tent and at night it gets downright chilly.Even in summer.Sanding dust and fumes go right out in a hurry.The fan is a 36x36" box with low/high speed/reversible.It stood up to last years hurricane season with winds gusting to 60+.This is in a 20x10 carport sized.

[pipefitter]

We have one of those costco tents and the material covering it is heavier than normal polytarp.The zipper door works well too. We use a belt driven box fan attached to a same sized wooden duct into an opening made in the rear cover. It flat moves some air through that tent and at night it gets downright chilly.Even in summer.Sanding dust and fumes go right out in a hurry.The fan is a 36x36" box with low/high speed/reversible.It stood up to last years hurricane season with winds gusting to 60+.This is in a 20x10 carport sized.

[pipefitter]

We have one of those costco tents and the material covering it is heavier than normal polytarp.The zipper door works well too. We use a belt driven box fan attached to a same sized wooden duct into an opening made in the rear cover. It flat moves some air through that tent and at night it gets downright chilly.Even in summer.Sanding dust and fumes go right out in a hurry.The fan is a 36x36" box with low/high speed/reversible.It stood up to last years hurricane season with winds gusting to 60+.This is in a 20x10 carport sized.

[JimConlin]

Have a look at FarmTek (http://www.farmtek.com) . Ther variety of styles is amazing.

[JimConlin]

Have a look at FarmTek (http://www.farmtek.com) . Ther variety of styles is amazing.

[JimConlin]

Have a look at FarmTek (http://www.farmtek.com) . Ther variety of styles is amazing.

[Ed Harrow]

Sorry, I don't have any pictures of Our Lady of St Phoenix...

~ 40' long, 16' wide and what, on 4' knee walls (complete with flying butresses), I think it's about 18' high. Several winters, lots of snow, some pretty good winds (215 knots, if you believe our weather station, LOL). Some issues, some stuff I'd do differently, but if you are considering a Stimson shelter I'll make some comments if you'd like.

[Ed Harrow]

Sorry, I don't have any pictures of Our Lady of St Phoenix...

~ 40' long, 16' wide and what, on 4' knee walls (complete with flying butresses), I think it's about 18' high. Several winters, lots of snow, some pretty good winds (215 knots, if you believe our weather station, LOL). Some issues, some stuff I'd do differently, but if you are considering a Stimson shelter I'll make some comments if you'd like.

[Ed Harrow]

Sorry, I don't have any pictures of Our Lady of St Phoenix...

~ 40' long, 16' wide and what, on 4' knee walls (complete with flying butresses), I think it's about 18' high. Several winters, lots of snow, some pretty good winds (215 knots, if you believe our weather station, LOL). Some issues, some stuff I'd do differently, but if you are considering a Stimson shelter I'll make some comments if you'd like.

[Meerkat]

I would like to hear your comments please, Ed.

[Meerkat]

I would like to hear your comments please, Ed.

[Meerkat]

I would like to hear your comments please, Ed.

[marsbar]

I also considered the coverit shelter, but went with the Bow Roof Shed instead. Its 24'x 14'x about 12' high at the ridge. I built knee walls, with one side about a foot higher to keep the shed level on sloping ground. The covering is shrink wrap material which should give me at least two years of service....but some claim to get longer before the UV light degrades it too much. I would go with a UV resistant tarp next time in a light material to let as much light through as possible...but not clear. Gets pretty hot inside, but a fan in the gable helps so I can work inside in the summer. In winter, it stays very nice, and with a small propane heater, you can work in it just about any day. Had a very stressful time shrinking the wrap with a Dr. Shrink heat gun...may be due to my lack of shrinking experience.

Building the bows was a straight forward process, but get plenty of extra lengths of strapping for the ones that break during bending. Erecting the shed is definately a multi person job. Get a couple of good ladders and try and keep things square and plumb. The bows have a tendency of going every wich way until they are fastened together with stringers. Purchase the manual from Stimpson, its worth it.

Cost for my shed was about $7-800. Does the job for my 1955 18' CC Holiday restoration. Hope this gives you a little more info on the subject.

Regards....Mark

http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos699/1/6/86/75/22/7/722758606103_0_ALB.jpg
http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos699/1/6/86/55/68/9/968558606103_0_ALB.jpg

[marsbar]

I also considered the coverit shelter, but went with the Bow Roof Shed instead. Its 24'x 14'x about 12' high at the ridge. I built knee walls, with one side about a foot higher to keep the shed level on sloping ground. The covering is shrink wrap material which should give me at least two years of service....but some claim to get longer before the UV light degrades it too much. I would go with a UV resistant tarp next time in a light material to let as much light through as possible...but not clear. Gets pretty hot inside, but a fan in the gable helps so I can work inside in the summer. In winter, it stays very nice, and with a small propane heater, you can work in it just about any day. Had a very stressful time shrinking the wrap with a Dr. Shrink heat gun...may be due to my lack of shrinking experience.

Building the bows was a straight forward process, but get plenty of extra lengths of strapping for the ones that break during bending. Erecting the shed is definately a multi person job. Get a couple of good ladders and try and keep things square and plumb. The bows have a tendency of going every wich way until they are fastened together with stringers. Purchase the manual from Stimpson, its worth it.

Cost for my shed was about $7-800. Does the job for my 1955 18' CC Holiday restoration. Hope this gives you a little more info on the subject.

Regards....Mark

http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos699/1/6/86/75/22/7/722758606103_0_ALB.jpg
http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos699/1/6/86/55/68/9/968558606103_0_ALB.jpg

[marsbar]

I also considered the coverit shelter, but went with the Bow Roof Shed instead. Its 24'x 14'x about 12' high at the ridge. I built knee walls, with one side about a foot higher to keep the shed level on sloping ground. The covering is shrink wrap material which should give me at least two years of service....but some claim to get longer before the UV light degrades it too much. I would go with a UV resistant tarp next time in a light material to let as much light through as possible...but not clear. Gets pretty hot inside, but a fan in the gable helps so I can work inside in the summer. In winter, it stays very nice, and with a small propane heater, you can work in it just about any day. Had a very stressful time shrinking the wrap with a Dr. Shrink heat gun...may be due to my lack of shrinking experience.

Building the bows was a straight forward process, but get plenty of extra lengths of strapping for the ones that break during bending. Erecting the shed is definately a multi person job. Get a couple of good ladders and try and keep things square and plumb. The bows have a tendency of going every wich way until they are fastened together with stringers. Purchase the manual from Stimpson, its worth it.

Cost for my shed was about $7-800. Does the job for my 1955 18' CC Holiday restoration. Hope this gives you a little more info on the subject.

Regards....Mark

http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos699/1/6/86/75/22/7/722758606103_0_ALB.jpg
http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos699/1/6/86/55/68/9/968558606103_0_ALB.jpg

[Ed Harrow]

OK, pictures and comments:

http://home.comcast.net/~ed.harrow/P8250010.JPG

This gives a general sense of it

http://home.comcast.net/~ed.harrow/jig.JPG

This is the jig
http://home.comcast.net/~ed.harrow/19Feb03.jpg
It tolerates snow pretty well.

If I were to do it over:

I'd really think about improving ventilation. My idea would be to stagger the the arches, so one side is slightly higher than the other by using a deeper header/joist along the ridge, and poking that full of holes, so to speak, to create a ridge vent.

Mine is covered with greenhouse plastic, and I have a tarp over that. I have the tarp as I ran out of the vinyl tape... I painted the original tarp, which was going the way all such things do, white, made a big difference in temp, and have a "new" tarp for the winter. The new tarp, not being exposed to the summer's sun, hasn't developed the "Tooth" the old one did, that was the primary cause of my problems one winter.

I broke very few pieces of strapping, and didn't use a couple that were obviously going to break, probably less than 6 all told. I did keep the strapping soaking wet.

Bill of Materials:
11 hoops consisting of:

4 16’ pieces of strapping 44 pieces, 16’

14 spacer blocks (2x3) x 11 4 pieces, 10’

4 top and bottom blocks (2x3) x 11 4 pieces, 10’

Horizontals - 35 16’ pieces

Diagonals - 11 16’ pieces

Extra - 25 16’ pieces

Ridge pole – 40’ 2x6

Knee wall:

Sill 10 pieces 8’ 2x6 pt
10 pieces 8’ 2x4 pt

Header 10 pieces 8’ 2x6 pt
10 pieces 8’ 2x4 pt

Studs 42 pieces 3’2x4

Hardware

¼” x 4.5” carriage bolt, nut, washer (44)

¼” x 5.5 carriage bolt, nut, washer (154)

3 pounds? of 3” deck screws

Rebar - 3’ 10 pieces

Other

2 4x8 sheets ¾” CDX

3 16’ 2x4 pt

Strapping, all 16’ 120 pieces

Blocking, 2x3, 8’ 12 pieces

Ridge, 2x6, 10’ 4 pieces

Studs, 2x4, 12’ 11 pieces

Sill, 2x6 PT, 10’ 8 pieces

Header, 2x6, 12’ 4 pieces

Header, 2x6, 16’ 2 pieces

Header, 2x4, 8’ 10 pieces

A N/S orientation is probably best, this is "close" to that. It's stood up to some pretty stout winds, 60+ knots.

I have it staked to the ground with the rebar, and have some tie-downs in addition.

[ 07-08-2005, 11:42 PM: Message edited by: Ed Harrow ]

[Ed Harrow]

OK, pictures and comments:

http://home.comcast.net/~ed.harrow/P8250010.JPG

This gives a general sense of it

http://home.comcast.net/~ed.harrow/jig.JPG

This is the jig
http://home.comcast.net/~ed.harrow/19Feb03.jpg
It tolerates snow pretty well.

If I were to do it over:

I'd really think about improving ventilation. My idea would be to stagger the the arches, so one side is slightly higher than the other by using a deeper header/joist along the ridge, and poking that full of holes, so to speak, to create a ridge vent.

Mine is covered with greenhouse plastic, and I have a tarp over that. I have the tarp as I ran out of the vinyl tape... I painted the original tarp, which was going the way all such things do, white, made a big difference in temp, and have a "new" tarp for the winter. The new tarp, not being exposed to the summer's sun, hasn't developed the "Tooth" the old one did, that was the primary cause of my problems one winter.

I broke very few pieces of strapping, and didn't use a couple that were obviously going to break, probably less than 6 all told. I did keep the strapping soaking wet.

Bill of Materials:
11 hoops consisting of:

4 16’ pieces of strapping 44 pieces, 16’

14 spacer blocks (2x3) x 11 4 pieces, 10’

4 top and bottom blocks (2x3) x 11 4 pieces, 10’

Horizontals - 35 16’ pieces

Diagonals - 11 16’ pieces

Extra - 25 16’ pieces

Ridge pole – 40’ 2x6

Knee wall:

Sill 10 pieces 8’ 2x6 pt
10 pieces 8’ 2x4 pt

Header 10 pieces 8’ 2x6 pt
10 pieces 8’ 2x4 pt

Studs 42 pieces 3’2x4

Hardware

¼” x 4.5” carriage bolt, nut, washer (44)

¼” x 5.5 carriage bolt, nut, washer (154)

3 pounds? of 3” deck screws

Rebar - 3’ 10 pieces

Other

2 4x8 sheets ¾” CDX

3 16’ 2x4 pt

Strapping, all 16’ 120 pieces

Blocking, 2x3, 8’ 12 pieces

Ridge, 2x6, 10’ 4 pieces

Studs, 2x4, 12’ 11 pieces

Sill, 2x6 PT, 10’ 8 pieces

Header, 2x6, 12’ 4 pieces

Header, 2x6, 16’ 2 pieces

Header, 2x4, 8’ 10 pieces

A N/S orientation is probably best, this is "close" to that. It's stood up to some pretty stout winds, 60+ knots.

I have it staked to the ground with the rebar, and have some tie-downs in addition.

[ 07-08-2005, 11:42 PM: Message edited by: Ed Harrow ]

[Ed Harrow]

OK, pictures and comments:

http://home.comcast.net/~ed.harrow/P8250010.JPG

This gives a general sense of it

http://home.comcast.net/~ed.harrow/jig.JPG

This is the jig
http://home.comcast.net/~ed.harrow/19Feb03.jpg
It tolerates snow pretty well.

If I were to do it over:

I'd really think about improving ventilation. My idea would be to stagger the the arches, so one side is slightly higher than the other by using a deeper header/joist along the ridge, and poking that full of holes, so to speak, to create a ridge vent.

Mine is covered with greenhouse plastic, and I have a tarp over that. I have the tarp as I ran out of the vinyl tape... I painted the original tarp, which was going the way all such things do, white, made a big difference in temp, and have a "new" tarp for the winter. The new tarp, not being exposed to the summer's sun, hasn't developed the "Tooth" the old one did, that was the primary cause of my problems one winter.

I broke very few pieces of strapping, and didn't use a couple that were obviously going to break, probably less than 6 all told. I did keep the strapping soaking wet.

Bill of Materials:
11 hoops consisting of:

4 16’ pieces of strapping 44 pieces, 16’

14 spacer blocks (2x3) x 11 4 pieces, 10’

4 top and bottom blocks (2x3) x 11 4 pieces, 10’

Horizontals - 35 16’ pieces

Diagonals - 11 16’ pieces

Extra - 25 16’ pieces

Ridge pole – 40’ 2x6

Knee wall:

Sill 10 pieces 8’ 2x6 pt
10 pieces 8’ 2x4 pt

Header 10 pieces 8’ 2x6 pt
10 pieces 8’ 2x4 pt

Studs 42 pieces 3’2x4

Hardware

¼” x 4.5” carriage bolt, nut, washer (44)

¼” x 5.5 carriage bolt, nut, washer (154)

3 pounds? of 3” deck screws

Rebar - 3’ 10 pieces

Other

2 4x8 sheets ¾” CDX

3 16’ 2x4 pt

Strapping, all 16’ 120 pieces

Blocking, 2x3, 8’ 12 pieces

Ridge, 2x6, 10’ 4 pieces

Studs, 2x4, 12’ 11 pieces

Sill, 2x6 PT, 10’ 8 pieces

Header, 2x6, 12’ 4 pieces

Header, 2x6, 16’ 2 pieces

Header, 2x4, 8’ 10 pieces

A N/S orientation is probably best, this is "close" to that. It's stood up to some pretty stout winds, 60+ knots.

I have it staked to the ground with the rebar, and have some tie-downs in addition.

[ 07-08-2005, 11:42 PM: Message edited by: Ed Harrow ]

[Figment]

I'll second Ed's emotion that a ridge vent would immensely improve conditions inside a Stimson (or any other greenhouse-type) shed.

Ed, I toyed with your superdeep ridge beam idea when I built my shed last fall (and again when I rebuilt it a few months later), and I couldn't really get it to work. The torque that develops on that piece gets just nutty when you don't land the bows at the same height.

I later had a different idea. Build the bows about a foot longer on one side of the shed... sorta let the bows of the left fly up and over their counterparts on the right. This would create a vertical panel of roughly 5" running the length of the ridge. I have a detail sketch around here somewhere. I'll scan and post it when I come across it next.

For all that, though, I gotta say it makes a really complicated deal out of what was once an elegantly simple structure.

[Figment]

I'll second Ed's emotion that a ridge vent would immensely improve conditions inside a Stimson (or any other greenhouse-type) shed.

Ed, I toyed with your superdeep ridge beam idea when I built my shed last fall (and again when I rebuilt it a few months later), and I couldn't really get it to work. The torque that develops on that piece gets just nutty when you don't land the bows at the same height.

I later had a different idea. Build the bows about a foot longer on one side of the shed... sorta let the bows of the left fly up and over their counterparts on the right. This would create a vertical panel of roughly 5" running the length of the ridge. I have a detail sketch around here somewhere. I'll scan and post it when I come across it next.

For all that, though, I gotta say it makes a really complicated deal out of what was once an elegantly simple structure.

[Figment]

I'll second Ed's emotion that a ridge vent would immensely improve conditions inside a Stimson (or any other greenhouse-type) shed.

Ed, I toyed with your superdeep ridge beam idea when I built my shed last fall (and again when I rebuilt it a few months later), and I couldn't really get it to work. The torque that develops on that piece gets just nutty when you don't land the bows at the same height.

I later had a different idea. Build the bows about a foot longer on one side of the shed... sorta let the bows of the left fly up and over their counterparts on the right. This would create a vertical panel of roughly 5" running the length of the ridge. I have a detail sketch around here somewhere. I'll scan and post it when I come across it next.

For all that, though, I gotta say it makes a really complicated deal out of what was once an elegantly simple structure.

[Ethan]

Thanks Everyone!

Ed, I really appreciate the detail of your post. That really helped me to visualize the concept and how I'd go about building it on the specific location I have in mind.

Figment, if you come across that detailed drawing, I'd really like to see it. As you can imagine, south AL in the summer is hot enough - let alone working in a greenhouse!

For those that have built a bow-shed, do you think there would be a worthwhile advantage in using heavy duty tarps (i.e., like those that are used to cover loads on semi-trailers) or would that be extra expense with little gain?

For those that asked/are interested, the project driving this train for me is this (http://www.msu.edu/~hinkinse) and a Boston Whaler waiting to be restored.

[Ethan]

Thanks Everyone!

Ed, I really appreciate the detail of your post. That really helped me to visualize the concept and how I'd go about building it on the specific location I have in mind.

Figment, if you come across that detailed drawing, I'd really like to see it. As you can imagine, south AL in the summer is hot enough - let alone working in a greenhouse!

For those that have built a bow-shed, do you think there would be a worthwhile advantage in using heavy duty tarps (i.e., like those that are used to cover loads on semi-trailers) or would that be extra expense with little gain?

For those that asked/are interested, the project driving this train for me is this (http://www.msu.edu/~hinkinse) and a Boston Whaler waiting to be restored.

[Ethan]

Thanks Everyone!

Ed, I really appreciate the detail of your post. That really helped me to visualize the concept and how I'd go about building it on the specific location I have in mind.

Figment, if you come across that detailed drawing, I'd really like to see it. As you can imagine, south AL in the summer is hot enough - let alone working in a greenhouse!

For those that have built a bow-shed, do you think there would be a worthwhile advantage in using heavy duty tarps (i.e., like those that are used to cover loads on semi-trailers) or would that be extra expense with little gain?

For those that asked/are interested, the project driving this train for me is this (http://www.msu.edu/~hinkinse) and a Boston Whaler waiting to be restored.

[Ed Harrow]

I understand the twist that could be imparted on the ridge if the two were offset, but it doesn't seem that they'd have to be offset more than an inch or so. Likely there would be some other compromises as well.

What if, rather than use a 2x for the ridge, one were to (oh the complications) make some sort of skinny box structure, vent it vertically, and have a bit of something spaced above to keep out the most of the elements. No torque, no structual compromises, but ventilation still.

PS: looking over the BOM, some of it doesn't look right, but it's at least close enough to be useful.

[ 07-08-2005, 11:47 PM: Message edited by: Ed Harrow ]

[Ed Harrow]

I understand the twist that could be imparted on the ridge if the two were offset, but it doesn't seem that they'd have to be offset more than an inch or so. Likely there would be some other compromises as well.

What if, rather than use a 2x for the ridge, one were to (oh the complications) make some sort of skinny box structure, vent it vertically, and have a bit of something spaced above to keep out the most of the elements. No torque, no structual compromises, but ventilation still.

PS: looking over the BOM, some of it doesn't look right, but it's at least close enough to be useful.

[ 07-08-2005, 11:47 PM: Message edited by: Ed Harrow ]

[Ed Harrow]

I understand the twist that could be imparted on the ridge if the two were offset, but it doesn't seem that they'd have to be offset more than an inch or so. Likely there would be some other compromises as well.

What if, rather than use a 2x for the ridge, one were to (oh the complications) make some sort of skinny box structure, vent it vertically, and have a bit of something spaced above to keep out the most of the elements. No torque, no structual compromises, but ventilation still.

PS: looking over the BOM, some of it doesn't look right, but it's at least close enough to be useful.

[ 07-08-2005, 11:47 PM: Message edited by: Ed Harrow ]

[Meerkat]

Somehow I'm beginning to think of an elephant: a mouse developed by engineers... ;)

[Meerkat]

Somehow I'm beginning to think of an elephant: a mouse developed by engineers... ;)

[Meerkat]

Somehow I'm beginning to think of an elephant: a mouse developed by engineers... ;)

[Dave R]

Ed, is this the sort of thing you have in mind?
http://hamiltonwoodworks.com/drichards/Misc/bowshed1.jpg

By the way, how are the bows attached to the ridge piece?

[Dave R]

Ed, is this the sort of thing you have in mind?
http://hamiltonwoodworks.com/drichards/Misc/bowshed1.jpg

By the way, how are the bows attached to the ridge piece?

[Dave R]

Ed, is this the sort of thing you have in mind?
http://hamiltonwoodworks.com/drichards/Misc/bowshed1.jpg

By the way, how are the bows attached to the ridge piece?

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Meerkat:
Somehow I'm beginning to think of an elephant: a mouse developed by engineers... ;) Yeah, me too. I don't think a ridge vent would be worth all the effort. Mount a good sized fan in the peak of one end and put a gable style louver vent in the other end. I used a big whole house attic fan I got from the Big Box store for about a hundred bucks. It pulls quite a breeze through the shed. Also takes out the fumes, dust and paint overspray.

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Meerkat:
Somehow I'm beginning to think of an elephant: a mouse developed by engineers... ;) Yeah, me too. I don't think a ridge vent would be worth all the effort. Mount a good sized fan in the peak of one end and put a gable style louver vent in the other end. I used a big whole house attic fan I got from the Big Box store for about a hundred bucks. It pulls quite a breeze through the shed. Also takes out the fumes, dust and paint overspray.

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Meerkat:
Somehow I'm beginning to think of an elephant: a mouse developed by engineers... ;) Yeah, me too. I don't think a ridge vent would be worth all the effort. Mount a good sized fan in the peak of one end and put a gable style louver vent in the other end. I used a big whole house attic fan I got from the Big Box store for about a hundred bucks. It pulls quite a breeze through the shed. Also takes out the fumes, dust and paint overspray.

[Alan D. Hyde]

If you're going to go with a ridge vent, it looks to me like Dave R's would be a good one to emulate...

Alan

[Alan D. Hyde]

If you're going to go with a ridge vent, it looks to me like Dave R's would be a good one to emulate...

Alan

[Alan D. Hyde]

If you're going to go with a ridge vent, it looks to me like Dave R's would be a good one to emulate...

Alan

[JimConlin]

Ed-
Have you tried bigger vents in the gable ends, maybe with fans?
Before I gave up on the structural simplicity of Our Lady's, i'd try to find a way to make it work.

[JimConlin]

Ed-
Have you tried bigger vents in the gable ends, maybe with fans?
Before I gave up on the structural simplicity of Our Lady's, i'd try to find a way to make it work.

[JimConlin]

Ed-
Have you tried bigger vents in the gable ends, maybe with fans?
Before I gave up on the structural simplicity of Our Lady's, i'd try to find a way to make it work.

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Dave R:
Ed, is this the sort of thing you have in mind?
http://hamiltonwoodworks.com/drichards/Misc/bowshed1.jpg

By the way, how are the bows attached to the ridge piece?How do you cover it, or recover it, without blocking the vent gap? These things are too weak to get on top of. The only practical way to cover one (at least a large one) is to pull a tarp over the top from one side to the other, which of course would block the vent.

[ 07-11-2005, 04:44 PM: Message edited by: kc8pql ]

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Dave R:
Ed, is this the sort of thing you have in mind?
http://hamiltonwoodworks.com/drichards/Misc/bowshed1.jpg

By the way, how are the bows attached to the ridge piece?How do you cover it, or recover it, without blocking the vent gap? These things are too weak to get on top of. The only practical way to cover one (at least a large one) is to pull a tarp over the top from one side to the other, which of course would block the vent.

[ 07-11-2005, 04:44 PM: Message edited by: kc8pql ]

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Dave R:
Ed, is this the sort of thing you have in mind?
http://hamiltonwoodworks.com/drichards/Misc/bowshed1.jpg

By the way, how are the bows attached to the ridge piece?How do you cover it, or recover it, without blocking the vent gap? These things are too weak to get on top of. The only practical way to cover one (at least a large one) is to pull a tarp over the top from one side to the other, which of course would block the vent.

[ 07-11-2005, 04:44 PM: Message edited by: kc8pql ]

[Figment]

oh, if you space the bows closely enough, they're plenty strong. Mine are 30"o.c. I was 325#, climbing all over it like a huge jungle gym with three other guys, and it was steady as a rock. I even used the ridge beam to hoist my (atomic 4) engine.

Mine is covered in greenhouse plastic. Well, okay there's a big mutha tarp over it now, but that's just for shade in the summertime.

A ridge vent is simple. A ridge vent that does not admit driving rain is not. An OPERABLE ridge vent is a whole other animal.

To answer Dave R's question... My bows are anchored to the ridge with 4" decking screws. Square drive. (hey, I might want to take it apart someday...)

[Figment]

oh, if you space the bows closely enough, they're plenty strong. Mine are 30"o.c. I was 325#, climbing all over it like a huge jungle gym with three other guys, and it was steady as a rock. I even used the ridge beam to hoist my (atomic 4) engine.

Mine is covered in greenhouse plastic. Well, okay there's a big mutha tarp over it now, but that's just for shade in the summertime.

A ridge vent is simple. A ridge vent that does not admit driving rain is not. An OPERABLE ridge vent is a whole other animal.

To answer Dave R's question... My bows are anchored to the ridge with 4" decking screws. Square drive. (hey, I might want to take it apart someday...)

[Figment]

oh, if you space the bows closely enough, they're plenty strong. Mine are 30"o.c. I was 325#, climbing all over it like a huge jungle gym with three other guys, and it was steady as a rock. I even used the ridge beam to hoist my (atomic 4) engine.

Mine is covered in greenhouse plastic. Well, okay there's a big mutha tarp over it now, but that's just for shade in the summertime.

A ridge vent is simple. A ridge vent that does not admit driving rain is not. An OPERABLE ridge vent is a whole other animal.

To answer Dave R's question... My bows are anchored to the ridge with 4" decking screws. Square drive. (hey, I might want to take it apart someday...)

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Figment:
oh, if you space the bows closely enough, they're plenty strong. Mine are 30"o.c. I was 325#, climbing all over it like a huge jungle gym with three other guys, and it was steady as a rock. I even used the ridge beam to hoist my (atomic 4) engine.You got more guts than I do. My shed is bigger than Stimson says you should make them though, and the bows are on 4' centers. It may be stronger than I think it is. It's made it through 10 years of tornados and blizzerds. I hung a 200 lb. transom hung rudder a few weeks ago. I gave some thought to lifting it from the ridge but chickened out. It would have been a heck of a lot easier that way.

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Figment:
oh, if you space the bows closely enough, they're plenty strong. Mine are 30"o.c. I was 325#, climbing all over it like a huge jungle gym with three other guys, and it was steady as a rock. I even used the ridge beam to hoist my (atomic 4) engine.You got more guts than I do. My shed is bigger than Stimson says you should make them though, and the bows are on 4' centers. It may be stronger than I think it is. It's made it through 10 years of tornados and blizzerds. I hung a 200 lb. transom hung rudder a few weeks ago. I gave some thought to lifting it from the ridge but chickened out. It would have been a heck of a lot easier that way.

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Figment:
oh, if you space the bows closely enough, they're plenty strong. Mine are 30"o.c. I was 325#, climbing all over it like a huge jungle gym with three other guys, and it was steady as a rock. I even used the ridge beam to hoist my (atomic 4) engine.You got more guts than I do. My shed is bigger than Stimson says you should make them though, and the bows are on 4' centers. It may be stronger than I think it is. It's made it through 10 years of tornados and blizzerds. I hung a 200 lb. transom hung rudder a few weeks ago. I gave some thought to lifting it from the ridge but chickened out. It would have been a heck of a lot easier that way.

[Stari27]

Three years ago I contacted Cover-all for a price, in Nova Scotia, for a cover 40ft. x 18ft x 24 ft high with a full end wall and a zipped front, with ventilators. Not including strip concrete footings, the price was about $9,000 CA. Not bad. I use these structures for Public Works facility Salt/Sand storage and they work very well. Good Luck.

[Stari27]

Three years ago I contacted Cover-all for a price, in Nova Scotia, for a cover 40ft. x 18ft x 24 ft high with a full end wall and a zipped front, with ventilators. Not including strip concrete footings, the price was about $9,000 CA. Not bad. I use these structures for Public Works facility Salt/Sand storage and they work very well. Good Luck.

[Stari27]

Three years ago I contacted Cover-all for a price, in Nova Scotia, for a cover 40ft. x 18ft x 24 ft high with a full end wall and a zipped front, with ventilators. Not including strip concrete footings, the price was about $9,000 CA. Not bad. I use these structures for Public Works facility Salt/Sand storage and they work very well. Good Luck.

[RodB]

Just a suggestion... we have a guy locally who sells the white billboard material that comes from the used billboard signs. They usually come around 15' X 48'. The material is very tough, UV resistant, and of course white...with a colored photo or drawing on one side. The drawing can be removed with laquer thinner.

I can get these tarps for $40/ea and when used as a cover for a storage shed, they last many many years. These used billboard signs are probably available all over the country, but in some states I am sure the cost may be more...while in others they may throw them away.

I have covered my present boat with one for almost 3 years and nary a drop of water has gotten into my boat. This stuff is so tough and "non-rip-able" that I just cut small holes in the edges and hang used 1 gallon Tide bottles full of water to hold the tarp down. These holes have never ripped. This is great stuff and only about 25% or less light transmits through. If you paint one side with white paint, it will become opaque. My source is in Ft Worth, but I'm sure he could ship a tarp to anyone. . . or offer a lead closer to you...for interested parties. These tarps come in larger sizes now and then, I presently have one 20' X 60' that I'm saving for a boat shed.

RB

[RodB]

Just a suggestion... we have a guy locally who sells the white billboard material that comes from the used billboard signs. They usually come around 15' X 48'. The material is very tough, UV resistant, and of course white...with a colored photo or drawing on one side. The drawing can be removed with laquer thinner.

I can get these tarps for $40/ea and when used as a cover for a storage shed, they last many many years. These used billboard signs are probably available all over the country, but in some states I am sure the cost may be more...while in others they may throw them away.

I have covered my present boat with one for almost 3 years and nary a drop of water has gotten into my boat. This stuff is so tough and "non-rip-able" that I just cut small holes in the edges and hang used 1 gallon Tide bottles full of water to hold the tarp down. These holes have never ripped. This is great stuff and only about 25% or less light transmits through. If you paint one side with white paint, it will become opaque. My source is in Ft Worth, but I'm sure he could ship a tarp to anyone. . . or offer a lead closer to you...for interested parties. These tarps come in larger sizes now and then, I presently have one 20' X 60' that I'm saving for a boat shed.

RB

[RodB]

Just a suggestion... we have a guy locally who sells the white billboard material that comes from the used billboard signs. They usually come around 15' X 48'. The material is very tough, UV resistant, and of course white...with a colored photo or drawing on one side. The drawing can be removed with laquer thinner.

I can get these tarps for $40/ea and when used as a cover for a storage shed, they last many many years. These used billboard signs are probably available all over the country, but in some states I am sure the cost may be more...while in others they may throw them away.

I have covered my present boat with one for almost 3 years and nary a drop of water has gotten into my boat. This stuff is so tough and "non-rip-able" that I just cut small holes in the edges and hang used 1 gallon Tide bottles full of water to hold the tarp down. These holes have never ripped. This is great stuff and only about 25% or less light transmits through. If you paint one side with white paint, it will become opaque. My source is in Ft Worth, but I'm sure he could ship a tarp to anyone. . . or offer a lead closer to you...for interested parties. These tarps come in larger sizes now and then, I presently have one 20' X 60' that I'm saving for a boat shed.

RB