Matching saw & motor

[J. Dillon]

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/402/jigsaw1hy.jpg

I like to browse flea markets and a recent temptation was a table jig saw. I paid 5 bucks and could hardly lift it .It bears the "Craftsman" label with no model #. It's vintage must be before plastics invaded the field. It appears to turn all right with the up and down motion by hand but has no motor for it's 4" pulley. A week later at the flea market I also acquired a Craftsman motor of equal weight with a plate stating 1/2 HP 1750 RPM and 8.2 amps. There are shaft extensions on both sides, one has a 5" pulley.

Question : Can these two be united in the holy cermony of wood cutting ?
The saw likes to be turned in a particular direction but the motor stance means the on off switch would be on the back side or opposite the user.

Thanks for any leads

Anxious to perform the marriage if these two are compatable.

JD

[J. Dillon]

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/402/jigsaw1hy.jpg

I like to browse flea markets and a recent temptation was a table jig saw. I paid 5 bucks and could hardly lift it .It bears the "Craftsman" label with no model #. It's vintage must be before plastics invaded the field. It appears to turn all right with the up and down motion by hand but has no motor for it's 4" pulley. A week later at the flea market I also acquired a Craftsman motor of equal weight with a plate stating 1/2 HP 1750 RPM and 8.2 amps. There are shaft extensions on both sides, one has a 5" pulley.

Question : Can these two be united in the holy cermony of wood cutting ?
The saw likes to be turned in a particular direction but the motor stance means the on off switch would be on the back side or opposite the user.

Thanks for any leads

Anxious to perform the marriage if these two are compatable.

JD

[J. Dillon]

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/402/jigsaw1hy.jpg

I like to browse flea markets and a recent temptation was a table jig saw. I paid 5 bucks and could hardly lift it .It bears the "Craftsman" label with no model #. It's vintage must be before plastics invaded the field. It appears to turn all right with the up and down motion by hand but has no motor for it's 4" pulley. A week later at the flea market I also acquired a Craftsman motor of equal weight with a plate stating 1/2 HP 1750 RPM and 8.2 amps. There are shaft extensions on both sides, one has a 5" pulley.

Question : Can these two be united in the holy cermony of wood cutting ?
The saw likes to be turned in a particular direction but the motor stance means the on off switch would be on the back side or opposite the user.

Thanks for any leads

Anxious to perform the marriage if these two are compatable.

JD

[Ron Williamson]

I think I'd buy a 4 step pulley for the motor,so the speed could be fine tuned.
While your at it,buy a surface mount electrical box with a single pole switch and mount it where you want.
R

[Ron Williamson]

I think I'd buy a 4 step pulley for the motor,so the speed could be fine tuned.
While your at it,buy a surface mount electrical box with a single pole switch and mount it where you want.
R

[Ron Williamson]

I think I'd buy a 4 step pulley for the motor,so the speed could be fine tuned.
While your at it,buy a surface mount electrical box with a single pole switch and mount it where you want.
R

[Tom Lathrop]

Jack,

I can't offer a really definitive answer but it is likely that the original motor was a 3600 rpm unit since slower motors are more expensive. It is also not likely that they used a larger diameter pulley on the motor to drive the 4" pulley you have. One thing is sure, they probably used a smaller motor and yours will never stall.

The only problem you could have is running it too fast and that is not likely with your slow speed motor. Get a typical 4 step pulley from 2" to 4" and try it out. My guess is that it will work fine although you may eventually want to speed things up with either a 3600 RPM motor or a larger diameter pulley on the motor. I prefer link style belts on all my small machines.

The weakest link on this kind of scrollsaw is the return spring on top.

[Tom Lathrop]

Jack,

I can't offer a really definitive answer but it is likely that the original motor was a 3600 rpm unit since slower motors are more expensive. It is also not likely that they used a larger diameter pulley on the motor to drive the 4" pulley you have. One thing is sure, they probably used a smaller motor and yours will never stall.

The only problem you could have is running it too fast and that is not likely with your slow speed motor. Get a typical 4 step pulley from 2" to 4" and try it out. My guess is that it will work fine although you may eventually want to speed things up with either a 3600 RPM motor or a larger diameter pulley on the motor. I prefer link style belts on all my small machines.

The weakest link on this kind of scrollsaw is the return spring on top.

[Tom Lathrop]

Jack,

I can't offer a really definitive answer but it is likely that the original motor was a 3600 rpm unit since slower motors are more expensive. It is also not likely that they used a larger diameter pulley on the motor to drive the 4" pulley you have. One thing is sure, they probably used a smaller motor and yours will never stall.

The only problem you could have is running it too fast and that is not likely with your slow speed motor. Get a typical 4 step pulley from 2" to 4" and try it out. My guess is that it will work fine although you may eventually want to speed things up with either a 3600 RPM motor or a larger diameter pulley on the motor. I prefer link style belts on all my small machines.

The weakest link on this kind of scrollsaw is the return spring on top.

[BirchBark]

JD,

Check here:
http://www.owwm.com/MfgIndex/Detail.asp?ID=222
With the serial # you can find out who actually made the machine. Then you can find a picture of one and possibly the manual for it.
Nice saw.

Chris

[BirchBark]

JD,

Check here:
http://www.owwm.com/MfgIndex/Detail.asp?ID=222
With the serial # you can find out who actually made the machine. Then you can find a picture of one and possibly the manual for it.
Nice saw.

Chris

[BirchBark]

JD,

Check here:
http://www.owwm.com/MfgIndex/Detail.asp?ID=222
With the serial # you can find out who actually made the machine. Then you can find a picture of one and possibly the manual for it.
Nice saw.

Chris

[BirchBark]

Here this one looks alot like it:
http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/Images/837-B.jpg

This is the link to the photo index:
http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=837

Here is the link to the manufacturer data: (King-Seeley)
http://www.owwm.com/MfgIndex/Detail.asp?ID=497&PI=ALL&#PhotoIndex

[BirchBark]

Here this one looks alot like it:
http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/Images/837-B.jpg

This is the link to the photo index:
http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=837

Here is the link to the manufacturer data: (King-Seeley)
http://www.owwm.com/MfgIndex/Detail.asp?ID=497&PI=ALL&#PhotoIndex

[BirchBark]

Here this one looks alot like it:
http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/Images/837-B.jpg

This is the link to the photo index:
http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=837

Here is the link to the manufacturer data: (King-Seeley)
http://www.owwm.com/MfgIndex/Detail.asp?ID=497&PI=ALL&#PhotoIndex

[J. Dillon]

Thanks Ron,Tom & Chris. Yes it looks like the one in the image posted by Chris. I think the motor I have might be a bit of over kill after seeing the one in Chris's image. The saw has a 5/8" shaft while the motor has 1/2" Obtaining a matched pair of stepped pulleys might be daunting. In the mean time I'll get a belt and try it out 4" to 5" on the motor. A flick of a instant juice might be revealing.

The motor plate states that the direction of turning can be reversed by switching the wires under the cover plate but the color is too faded to tell which is which. Any ideas ?

JD

[J. Dillon]

Thanks Ron,Tom & Chris. Yes it looks like the one in the image posted by Chris. I think the motor I have might be a bit of over kill after seeing the one in Chris's image. The saw has a 5/8" shaft while the motor has 1/2" Obtaining a matched pair of stepped pulleys might be daunting. In the mean time I'll get a belt and try it out 4" to 5" on the motor. A flick of a instant juice might be revealing.

The motor plate states that the direction of turning can be reversed by switching the wires under the cover plate but the color is too faded to tell which is which. Any ideas ?

JD

[J. Dillon]

Thanks Ron,Tom & Chris. Yes it looks like the one in the image posted by Chris. I think the motor I have might be a bit of over kill after seeing the one in Chris's image. The saw has a 5/8" shaft while the motor has 1/2" Obtaining a matched pair of stepped pulleys might be daunting. In the mean time I'll get a belt and try it out 4" to 5" on the motor. A flick of a instant juice might be revealing.

The motor plate states that the direction of turning can be reversed by switching the wires under the cover plate but the color is too faded to tell which is which. Any ideas ?

JD

[Hughman]

i'll bet that 1/2 hp motor would be overkill. Craftsman used those on 8" tablesaws.

I'm guessing a 1/4 hp motor.

[Hughman]

i'll bet that 1/2 hp motor would be overkill. Craftsman used those on 8" tablesaws.

I'm guessing a 1/4 hp motor.

[Hughman]

i'll bet that 1/2 hp motor would be overkill. Craftsman used those on 8" tablesaws.

I'm guessing a 1/4 hp motor.

[Frank Wentzel]

My dad had a saw just like that. He bought it in the 1950's. He had a 1750 rpm motor on it. I would guess it was 1/4 or 1/3 hp. There was a multistep pulley on the motor. The machine has a crankcase - make sure its full of oil before you use it. I'm hoping that I will get my dad's saw, but I have 3 brothers who live a lot closer to home.

/// Frank ///

[Frank Wentzel]

My dad had a saw just like that. He bought it in the 1950's. He had a 1750 rpm motor on it. I would guess it was 1/4 or 1/3 hp. There was a multistep pulley on the motor. The machine has a crankcase - make sure its full of oil before you use it. I'm hoping that I will get my dad's saw, but I have 3 brothers who live a lot closer to home.

/// Frank ///

[Frank Wentzel]

My dad had a saw just like that. He bought it in the 1950's. He had a 1750 rpm motor on it. I would guess it was 1/4 or 1/3 hp. There was a multistep pulley on the motor. The machine has a crankcase - make sure its full of oil before you use it. I'm hoping that I will get my dad's saw, but I have 3 brothers who live a lot closer to home.

/// Frank ///

[Ron Williamson]

No need for matched pulleys,one will do.
Just drill alternate mount holes for the motor.
Once you get the speed dialed in,you oughtn't need to change it.
R

[Ron Williamson]

No need for matched pulleys,one will do.
Just drill alternate mount holes for the motor.
Once you get the speed dialed in,you oughtn't need to change it.
R

[Ron Williamson]

No need for matched pulleys,one will do.
Just drill alternate mount holes for the motor.
Once you get the speed dialed in,you oughtn't need to change it.
R

[Mrleft8]

I had one of those. It ate blades faster than a ......Real fast. I figured it was going too fast, I slowed it down. Still ate blades. I have no idea who I gave that piece of junk to, but I'm pretty sure the y gave it to someone else who probably gave it to some one else who probably....I bet it's the same saw.... Nice to see you back Jack!

[Mrleft8]

I had one of those. It ate blades faster than a ......Real fast. I figured it was going too fast, I slowed it down. Still ate blades. I have no idea who I gave that piece of junk to, but I'm pretty sure the y gave it to someone else who probably gave it to some one else who probably....I bet it's the same saw.... Nice to see you back Jack!

[Mrleft8]

I had one of those. It ate blades faster than a ......Real fast. I figured it was going too fast, I slowed it down. Still ate blades. I have no idea who I gave that piece of junk to, but I'm pretty sure the y gave it to someone else who probably gave it to some one else who probably....I bet it's the same saw.... Nice to see you back Jack!

[nedL]

Jack, That motor will work just fine. Overkill, yes, but so what, no harm done. Hp doesn't relate to speed. (small AC motors are available in only two speeds, 1750 & 3600 RPM.) As Doug said it can eat up blades, but I think that may be a result of to fast a saw speed. (I have two saws like this.) I'd recommend using the smallest pulley on the motor that you can find in order to keep the saw speed down, & you might even be able to swap the saw pulley for a larger on to slow it more.

[nedL]

Jack, That motor will work just fine. Overkill, yes, but so what, no harm done. Hp doesn't relate to speed. (small AC motors are available in only two speeds, 1750 & 3600 RPM.) As Doug said it can eat up blades, but I think that may be a result of to fast a saw speed. (I have two saws like this.) I'd recommend using the smallest pulley on the motor that you can find in order to keep the saw speed down, & you might even be able to swap the saw pulley for a larger on to slow it more.

[nedL]

Jack, That motor will work just fine. Overkill, yes, but so what, no harm done. Hp doesn't relate to speed. (small AC motors are available in only two speeds, 1750 & 3600 RPM.) As Doug said it can eat up blades, but I think that may be a result of to fast a saw speed. (I have two saws like this.) I'd recommend using the smallest pulley on the motor that you can find in order to keep the saw speed down, & you might even be able to swap the saw pulley for a larger on to slow it more.

[Old Bingey]

I have had one just like that since the early fifties. It has the original motor setup. The drive pulley is 2" OD and the driven pulley is 4" OD. The motor is 1/4 hp. 1750 rpm and a regular induction motor without capacitor start.... what they call a fan motor. I think they aren't supposed to run very fast because nothing is balanced and it would vibrate too bad.

A jigsaw is sort of useful to have because you can leave a wide blade on the bandsaw and use the jigsaw when you have to cut a sharp curve in some little stuff. It won't cut a breasthook out of 5/4 live oak, though.

The blade guides are vulnerable to wear (particularly when grandchildren use the saw a lot) and when the guides wear out the blades break more easily. I replaced the original guides on my saw with little blocks of wood with a roundhead brass screw. The back of the blade rides in the screwdriver slot. That setup is easy to replace and adjust.

Don't forget to check the oil and give a little to the top plunger, too. The top plunger is supposed to act like a pump and blow a little puff of air to blow the sawdust away so you can see your line. The leather for that pump might be worn out like mine is. Mine hasn't blown that little puff of air for years. Don't be tempted to make a new table insert with narrow clearance. Whiskers off the bottom of the cut will hang up and inhibit the movement of the piece and that free movement is what makes it possible for a skillful operator to work wonders with that thing.

The blades are held in the plungers by two opposing screws mashing something like a chuck. One screw is an Allen screw and the other is a straight slot. The one you use to clamp the blade is the Allen. The straight slot screw just retains the little chuck jaw. That little rubberized hole in the top of the arm behind the top plunger is where you are supposed to keep the Allen wrench.

When you put a blade in it make sure it isn't shortened up too much for the crankshaft to make a complete revolution. Turn it by hand to see if it will make a complete cycle without binding. If you cut your own blades out of coping saw blades (like I did for thirty years) it is possible to get them too long so they have to bend to accommodate the stroke. That makes it difficult to cut accurate dovetails.

I think I might be going too far with all this but one capability of that machine is that it will do interesting things with one of those helically twisted coping saw blades that will cut sideways. You have to take the guides off and be careful not to overstress the blade when you are cutting sideways. You can even modify one of those carbide grit blades to work on the saw.. cuts high speed steel sort of slow.

Grandchildren love those things. Mine can cut five daggers and three swords an hour on that. They quickly learn not to get pinched and the blade is pretty safe. Put a guard on that belt, though.

[ 11-28-2005, 08:46 AM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[Old Bingey]

I have had one just like that since the early fifties. It has the original motor setup. The drive pulley is 2" OD and the driven pulley is 4" OD. The motor is 1/4 hp. 1750 rpm and a regular induction motor without capacitor start.... what they call a fan motor. I think they aren't supposed to run very fast because nothing is balanced and it would vibrate too bad.

A jigsaw is sort of useful to have because you can leave a wide blade on the bandsaw and use the jigsaw when you have to cut a sharp curve in some little stuff. It won't cut a breasthook out of 5/4 live oak, though.

The blade guides are vulnerable to wear (particularly when grandchildren use the saw a lot) and when the guides wear out the blades break more easily. I replaced the original guides on my saw with little blocks of wood with a roundhead brass screw. The back of the blade rides in the screwdriver slot. That setup is easy to replace and adjust.

Don't forget to check the oil and give a little to the top plunger, too. The top plunger is supposed to act like a pump and blow a little puff of air to blow the sawdust away so you can see your line. The leather for that pump might be worn out like mine is. Mine hasn't blown that little puff of air for years. Don't be tempted to make a new table insert with narrow clearance. Whiskers off the bottom of the cut will hang up and inhibit the movement of the piece and that free movement is what makes it possible for a skillful operator to work wonders with that thing.

The blades are held in the plungers by two opposing screws mashing something like a chuck. One screw is an Allen screw and the other is a straight slot. The one you use to clamp the blade is the Allen. The straight slot screw just retains the little chuck jaw. That little rubberized hole in the top of the arm behind the top plunger is where you are supposed to keep the Allen wrench.

When you put a blade in it make sure it isn't shortened up too much for the crankshaft to make a complete revolution. Turn it by hand to see if it will make a complete cycle without binding. If you cut your own blades out of coping saw blades (like I did for thirty years) it is possible to get them too long so they have to bend to accommodate the stroke. That makes it difficult to cut accurate dovetails.

I think I might be going too far with all this but one capability of that machine is that it will do interesting things with one of those helically twisted coping saw blades that will cut sideways. You have to take the guides off and be careful not to overstress the blade when you are cutting sideways. You can even modify one of those carbide grit blades to work on the saw.. cuts high speed steel sort of slow.

Grandchildren love those things. Mine can cut five daggers and three swords an hour on that. They quickly learn not to get pinched and the blade is pretty safe. Put a guard on that belt, though.

[ 11-28-2005, 08:46 AM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[Old Bingey]

I have had one just like that since the early fifties. It has the original motor setup. The drive pulley is 2" OD and the driven pulley is 4" OD. The motor is 1/4 hp. 1750 rpm and a regular induction motor without capacitor start.... what they call a fan motor. I think they aren't supposed to run very fast because nothing is balanced and it would vibrate too bad.

A jigsaw is sort of useful to have because you can leave a wide blade on the bandsaw and use the jigsaw when you have to cut a sharp curve in some little stuff. It won't cut a breasthook out of 5/4 live oak, though.

The blade guides are vulnerable to wear (particularly when grandchildren use the saw a lot) and when the guides wear out the blades break more easily. I replaced the original guides on my saw with little blocks of wood with a roundhead brass screw. The back of the blade rides in the screwdriver slot. That setup is easy to replace and adjust.

Don't forget to check the oil and give a little to the top plunger, too. The top plunger is supposed to act like a pump and blow a little puff of air to blow the sawdust away so you can see your line. The leather for that pump might be worn out like mine is. Mine hasn't blown that little puff of air for years. Don't be tempted to make a new table insert with narrow clearance. Whiskers off the bottom of the cut will hang up and inhibit the movement of the piece and that free movement is what makes it possible for a skillful operator to work wonders with that thing.

The blades are held in the plungers by two opposing screws mashing something like a chuck. One screw is an Allen screw and the other is a straight slot. The one you use to clamp the blade is the Allen. The straight slot screw just retains the little chuck jaw. That little rubberized hole in the top of the arm behind the top plunger is where you are supposed to keep the Allen wrench.

When you put a blade in it make sure it isn't shortened up too much for the crankshaft to make a complete revolution. Turn it by hand to see if it will make a complete cycle without binding. If you cut your own blades out of coping saw blades (like I did for thirty years) it is possible to get them too long so they have to bend to accommodate the stroke. That makes it difficult to cut accurate dovetails.

I think I might be going too far with all this but one capability of that machine is that it will do interesting things with one of those helically twisted coping saw blades that will cut sideways. You have to take the guides off and be careful not to overstress the blade when you are cutting sideways. You can even modify one of those carbide grit blades to work on the saw.. cuts high speed steel sort of slow.

Grandchildren love those things. Mine can cut five daggers and three swords an hour on that. They quickly learn not to get pinched and the blade is pretty safe. Put a guard on that belt, though.

[ 11-28-2005, 08:46 AM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[Tom Lathrop]

Great stuff Bingey.

One question. You talk about blade guides. I don't think I've ever seen these on a scroll saw. Can you tell us where they are in the photos and how do they work?

[Tom Lathrop]

Great stuff Bingey.

One question. You talk about blade guides. I don't think I've ever seen these on a scroll saw. Can you tell us where they are in the photos and how do they work?

[Tom Lathrop]

Great stuff Bingey.

One question. You talk about blade guides. I don't think I've ever seen these on a scroll saw. Can you tell us where they are in the photos and how do they work?

[Old Bingey]

On Birchbark's picture the top guide is on that little rod sticking down behind the blade. It adjusts up and down. I have seen them with a little grooved carbide wheel which rolls on the back of the blade but that was in a factory where a woman sat at a saw all day long performing absolute miracles. The bottom guide is attached to the table underneath and the only adjustment is fore and aft. On that professional set up it had a little carbide wheel, too.

You don't want to adjust the top guide down too close. It makes it so you can't see and also doesn't make any real difference. It is the bottom guide that takes the thrust.

On my saw, I fastened a little block of wood on to the top guide rod and screwed the brass screw in horizontally so the screwdriver slot lined up with the blade. The block of wood for the bottom guide under the table is just glued to the cast iron with cyanoacrylate glue and the fore and aft adjustment is obtained by turning the brass screw. It was supposed to be a temporary rig about ten years ago but it ain't fell off yet. The jackleg guide actually works better than the original guide which was too far away from the surface of the table to properly support the blade (in my opinion). I have been thinking about making a bottom guide attached to the aluminum table insert so it would be as close as possible to the bottom of the wood.

The screws will run for a good while before they wear out so badly that the blade starts jumping out of the groove too much or the groove gets too deep to support the blade against the feed pressure when cutting. It helps to round and polish the back of the blades before you put them in the saw. That also helps with the cutting and the blade will back out of a cut better.

It is sort of hard to learn how to cut on a jigsaw. You find that you have to turn the piece further than you think you need to to keep from pushing the blade sideways and maybe forcing it out of the guides. It is a skill alright.

I have bought those ready made scrollsaw blades (Olsen) but all my years of fooling around, I have gotten used to coping saw blades... thicker and stronger and cut faster. I ain't in the decoration business.

[Old Bingey]

On Birchbark's picture the top guide is on that little rod sticking down behind the blade. It adjusts up and down. I have seen them with a little grooved carbide wheel which rolls on the back of the blade but that was in a factory where a woman sat at a saw all day long performing absolute miracles. The bottom guide is attached to the table underneath and the only adjustment is fore and aft. On that professional set up it had a little carbide wheel, too.

You don't want to adjust the top guide down too close. It makes it so you can't see and also doesn't make any real difference. It is the bottom guide that takes the thrust.

On my saw, I fastened a little block of wood on to the top guide rod and screwed the brass screw in horizontally so the screwdriver slot lined up with the blade. The block of wood for the bottom guide under the table is just glued to the cast iron with cyanoacrylate glue and the fore and aft adjustment is obtained by turning the brass screw. It was supposed to be a temporary rig about ten years ago but it ain't fell off yet. The jackleg guide actually works better than the original guide which was too far away from the surface of the table to properly support the blade (in my opinion). I have been thinking about making a bottom guide attached to the aluminum table insert so it would be as close as possible to the bottom of the wood.

The screws will run for a good while before they wear out so badly that the blade starts jumping out of the groove too much or the groove gets too deep to support the blade against the feed pressure when cutting. It helps to round and polish the back of the blades before you put them in the saw. That also helps with the cutting and the blade will back out of a cut better.

It is sort of hard to learn how to cut on a jigsaw. You find that you have to turn the piece further than you think you need to to keep from pushing the blade sideways and maybe forcing it out of the guides. It is a skill alright.

I have bought those ready made scrollsaw blades (Olsen) but all my years of fooling around, I have gotten used to coping saw blades... thicker and stronger and cut faster. I ain't in the decoration business.

[Old Bingey]

On Birchbark's picture the top guide is on that little rod sticking down behind the blade. It adjusts up and down. I have seen them with a little grooved carbide wheel which rolls on the back of the blade but that was in a factory where a woman sat at a saw all day long performing absolute miracles. The bottom guide is attached to the table underneath and the only adjustment is fore and aft. On that professional set up it had a little carbide wheel, too.

You don't want to adjust the top guide down too close. It makes it so you can't see and also doesn't make any real difference. It is the bottom guide that takes the thrust.

On my saw, I fastened a little block of wood on to the top guide rod and screwed the brass screw in horizontally so the screwdriver slot lined up with the blade. The block of wood for the bottom guide under the table is just glued to the cast iron with cyanoacrylate glue and the fore and aft adjustment is obtained by turning the brass screw. It was supposed to be a temporary rig about ten years ago but it ain't fell off yet. The jackleg guide actually works better than the original guide which was too far away from the surface of the table to properly support the blade (in my opinion). I have been thinking about making a bottom guide attached to the aluminum table insert so it would be as close as possible to the bottom of the wood.

The screws will run for a good while before they wear out so badly that the blade starts jumping out of the groove too much or the groove gets too deep to support the blade against the feed pressure when cutting. It helps to round and polish the back of the blades before you put them in the saw. That also helps with the cutting and the blade will back out of a cut better.

It is sort of hard to learn how to cut on a jigsaw. You find that you have to turn the piece further than you think you need to to keep from pushing the blade sideways and maybe forcing it out of the guides. It is a skill alright.

I have bought those ready made scrollsaw blades (Olsen) but all my years of fooling around, I have gotten used to coping saw blades... thicker and stronger and cut faster. I ain't in the decoration business.

[nedL]

Bingey, - Great comments. Thank for the info on the upper & lower guides, I'll have to make something. I always thought that was one area where the scroll saws were lacking, now I know how to improve them.

[nedL]

Bingey, - Great comments. Thank for the info on the upper & lower guides, I'll have to make something. I always thought that was one area where the scroll saws were lacking, now I know how to improve them.

[nedL]

Bingey, - Great comments. Thank for the info on the upper & lower guides, I'll have to make something. I always thought that was one area where the scroll saws were lacking, now I know how to improve them.

[nedL]

Here are some pictures of Mike's scroll saw set up http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/p504cfda043eab37c80bbdddecfd378ba/f146ab30.jpg
Here is how the motor can be mounted underneath to take up less space.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/p755a36b4eccbe72101daee5ffca4cb57/f146ab3c.jpg
They don't require much power, so even the old wing nut' type of motor works just fine.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/pe5572c3e7b29cd726d1389f11473c216/f146ab27.jpg

[nedL]

Here are some pictures of Mike's scroll saw set up http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/p504cfda043eab37c80bbdddecfd378ba/f146ab30.jpg
Here is how the motor can be mounted underneath to take up less space.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/p755a36b4eccbe72101daee5ffca4cb57/f146ab3c.jpg
They don't require much power, so even the old wing nut' type of motor works just fine.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/pe5572c3e7b29cd726d1389f11473c216/f146ab27.jpg

[nedL]

Here are some pictures of Mike's scroll saw set up http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/p504cfda043eab37c80bbdddecfd378ba/f146ab30.jpg
Here is how the motor can be mounted underneath to take up less space.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/p755a36b4eccbe72101daee5ffca4cb57/f146ab3c.jpg
They don't require much power, so even the old wing nut' type of motor works just fine.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/pe5572c3e7b29cd726d1389f11473c216/f146ab27.jpg

[hoss]

I used one of those saws. I would not put much money in it. I could never get it to run right. The new jig saws with the moving arms are much better. If you are not cutting much you might be happy with it.

[hoss]

I used one of those saws. I would not put much money in it. I could never get it to run right. The new jig saws with the moving arms are much better. If you are not cutting much you might be happy with it.

[hoss]

I used one of those saws. I would not put much money in it. I could never get it to run right. The new jig saws with the moving arms are much better. If you are not cutting much you might be happy with it.

[Tom Lathrop]

Thanks again Bingey.

Of course, these saws operate in a straight vertical motion. My saw uses the common parallelogram motion tand I don't see how a guide would work on that unless it had a synchronized backup like orbital jig saws. That is what generated my question. I have analyzed the blade motion and find it leaves much to be desired since some of the vertical motion is spent backing away from the cut. A blade guide would need to be mounted so it could follow the blade motion. Has anyone done that?

From that point of view, it looks like the straight vertical motion like yours would be superior but Hoss seems to think otherwise.

Now if some genious comes up with a scroll saw that duplicates the blade motion of my Bosch orbital jig saw, I would surely be very interested although I don't do much scroll work.

[Tom Lathrop]

Thanks again Bingey.

Of course, these saws operate in a straight vertical motion. My saw uses the common parallelogram motion tand I don't see how a guide would work on that unless it had a synchronized backup like orbital jig saws. That is what generated my question. I have analyzed the blade motion and find it leaves much to be desired since some of the vertical motion is spent backing away from the cut. A blade guide would need to be mounted so it could follow the blade motion. Has anyone done that?

From that point of view, it looks like the straight vertical motion like yours would be superior but Hoss seems to think otherwise.

Now if some genious comes up with a scroll saw that duplicates the blade motion of my Bosch orbital jig saw, I would surely be very interested although I don't do much scroll work.

[Tom Lathrop]

Thanks again Bingey.

Of course, these saws operate in a straight vertical motion. My saw uses the common parallelogram motion tand I don't see how a guide would work on that unless it had a synchronized backup like orbital jig saws. That is what generated my question. I have analyzed the blade motion and find it leaves much to be desired since some of the vertical motion is spent backing away from the cut. A blade guide would need to be mounted so it could follow the blade motion. Has anyone done that?

From that point of view, it looks like the straight vertical motion like yours would be superior but Hoss seems to think otherwise.

Now if some genious comes up with a scroll saw that duplicates the blade motion of my Bosch orbital jig saw, I would surely be very interested although I don't do much scroll work.

[Old Bingey]

Tom,

It is hard to justify much fiddling around with a scroll saw when you have a bandsaw. I mostly keep it running for the grandchildren and nostalgia. I cut model airplane ribs out of balsa with it when I was a kid. It is good for cutting dovetails in drawer sides with one of those spiral blades, though.

A bandsaw will run rings around that thing for most everything else. Those teeth just never quit going in the right direction. I have two of them... well, actually three counting my Woodmizer. Well, actually four counting the little portable metal cutting thing. It dawned on me not too long ago that I have a lifetime supply of everything. Rats.

[Old Bingey]

Tom,

It is hard to justify much fiddling around with a scroll saw when you have a bandsaw. I mostly keep it running for the grandchildren and nostalgia. I cut model airplane ribs out of balsa with it when I was a kid. It is good for cutting dovetails in drawer sides with one of those spiral blades, though.

A bandsaw will run rings around that thing for most everything else. Those teeth just never quit going in the right direction. I have two of them... well, actually three counting my Woodmizer. Well, actually four counting the little portable metal cutting thing. It dawned on me not too long ago that I have a lifetime supply of everything. Rats.

[Old Bingey]

Tom,

It is hard to justify much fiddling around with a scroll saw when you have a bandsaw. I mostly keep it running for the grandchildren and nostalgia. I cut model airplane ribs out of balsa with it when I was a kid. It is good for cutting dovetails in drawer sides with one of those spiral blades, though.

A bandsaw will run rings around that thing for most everything else. Those teeth just never quit going in the right direction. I have two of them... well, actually three counting my Woodmizer. Well, actually four counting the little portable metal cutting thing. It dawned on me not too long ago that I have a lifetime supply of everything. Rats.

[J. Dillon]

Well folks thanks again and especially Old Bingey for the very informative discourse and Ned for posting the pix.

I did go out and get a belt, 28$ , more then I have in for the motor and saw combined. I got a long one to mount the motor behind the saw as in the site so kindly pointed out by Chris. I took a chance and used the drive pulley I got with the saw ( 5"). Mistake, but fortunately no consequences. The vibration set up by this rig ratio when running would scare away any granchildren ( me to). Everything on the table started to walk away. Now I got to hunt down a 2" drive pulley and see what happens. Maybe Hoss is right.

BTW Old Bingey where does one officially put in oil for the crank case? There is a screw on the side and a small thumb screw , both on the crancase. I think one, the thumb screw is for the bearing and the other for the case fill. I put in oil for both .How does one know when you put in enough ?

If the smaller pulley is the answer I'll get a smaller and cheaper belt and mount the motor underneath like Ned's rig up showed.

JD

[J. Dillon]

Well folks thanks again and especially Old Bingey for the very informative discourse and Ned for posting the pix.

I did go out and get a belt, 28$ , more then I have in for the motor and saw combined. I got a long one to mount the motor behind the saw as in the site so kindly pointed out by Chris. I took a chance and used the drive pulley I got with the saw ( 5"). Mistake, but fortunately no consequences. The vibration set up by this rig ratio when running would scare away any granchildren ( me to). Everything on the table started to walk away. Now I got to hunt down a 2" drive pulley and see what happens. Maybe Hoss is right.

BTW Old Bingey where does one officially put in oil for the crank case? There is a screw on the side and a small thumb screw , both on the crancase. I think one, the thumb screw is for the bearing and the other for the case fill. I put in oil for both .How does one know when you put in enough ?

If the smaller pulley is the answer I'll get a smaller and cheaper belt and mount the motor underneath like Ned's rig up showed.

JD

[J. Dillon]

Well folks thanks again and especially Old Bingey for the very informative discourse and Ned for posting the pix.

I did go out and get a belt, 28$ , more then I have in for the motor and saw combined. I got a long one to mount the motor behind the saw as in the site so kindly pointed out by Chris. I took a chance and used the drive pulley I got with the saw ( 5"). Mistake, but fortunately no consequences. The vibration set up by this rig ratio when running would scare away any granchildren ( me to). Everything on the table started to walk away. Now I got to hunt down a 2" drive pulley and see what happens. Maybe Hoss is right.

BTW Old Bingey where does one officially put in oil for the crank case? There is a screw on the side and a small thumb screw , both on the crancase. I think one, the thumb screw is for the bearing and the other for the case fill. I put in oil for both .How does one know when you put in enough ?

If the smaller pulley is the answer I'll get a smaller and cheaper belt and mount the motor underneath like Ned's rig up showed.

JD

[Old Bingey]

You know, I have been running mine with the oil I put in it about 1953. I don't think there is any way for it to get out of there and, sure enough, when I took out the screw on the port (?) side of the crankcase the oil was just a little below the hole. I think the crank throws oil all around in there and lubricates the ram and also the shaft bearing. Mine does not have any wing screw but there is a little bump in the casting on the shaft housing. Maybe yours is an improved model after they found out the shaft needed some additional oil. I don't see how they found that out, though. One time the electricity went out in the shop while I was doing something and I just got in the car and went to the coast for about two weeks. When I came back that thing was running. There is no play in the shaft or anything to indicate inadequate lubrication and the only noise it makes is a quiet little grunting sound. I think you are in good shape. Too bad you aren't close to me. I have a mind boggling collection of vee belts and pulleys... a lifetime supply. Oh well.

Another thing just occurred to me. One time I ran an old surplus motor whaleboat all the way back from the Bahamas to the north Gulf of Mexico with the water pump running on a piece of black polypropylene crab trap warp that I long-spliced into a belt... ran fine. You know pulling that saw is not exactly a high horsepower proposition. You could turn you a little wood pulley and super glue it on the motor shaft and keep your money for something more important.

Edited to add.

You could bore a hole in a rough disc of wood and super glue it onto the motor shaft and then turn it. That 3/4 hp would facilitate that operation.

There is one other thing: There is a little arrow cast into the top of the shaft housing on mine to indicate the direction of rotation. I guess the splasher in the crankcase is a one way deal.

I used to know the name of the company who built those things for Sears but I forgot that. I also forgot why I spent my hard earned money for that thing. There are other ways to cut out model airplane ribs. Oh well.

[ 11-28-2005, 05:32 PM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[Old Bingey]

You know, I have been running mine with the oil I put in it about 1953. I don't think there is any way for it to get out of there and, sure enough, when I took out the screw on the port (?) side of the crankcase the oil was just a little below the hole. I think the crank throws oil all around in there and lubricates the ram and also the shaft bearing. Mine does not have any wing screw but there is a little bump in the casting on the shaft housing. Maybe yours is an improved model after they found out the shaft needed some additional oil. I don't see how they found that out, though. One time the electricity went out in the shop while I was doing something and I just got in the car and went to the coast for about two weeks. When I came back that thing was running. There is no play in the shaft or anything to indicate inadequate lubrication and the only noise it makes is a quiet little grunting sound. I think you are in good shape. Too bad you aren't close to me. I have a mind boggling collection of vee belts and pulleys... a lifetime supply. Oh well.

Another thing just occurred to me. One time I ran an old surplus motor whaleboat all the way back from the Bahamas to the north Gulf of Mexico with the water pump running on a piece of black polypropylene crab trap warp that I long-spliced into a belt... ran fine. You know pulling that saw is not exactly a high horsepower proposition. You could turn you a little wood pulley and super glue it on the motor shaft and keep your money for something more important.

Edited to add.

You could bore a hole in a rough disc of wood and super glue it onto the motor shaft and then turn it. That 3/4 hp would facilitate that operation.

There is one other thing: There is a little arrow cast into the top of the shaft housing on mine to indicate the direction of rotation. I guess the splasher in the crankcase is a one way deal.

I used to know the name of the company who built those things for Sears but I forgot that. I also forgot why I spent my hard earned money for that thing. There are other ways to cut out model airplane ribs. Oh well.

[ 11-28-2005, 05:32 PM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[Old Bingey]

You know, I have been running mine with the oil I put in it about 1953. I don't think there is any way for it to get out of there and, sure enough, when I took out the screw on the port (?) side of the crankcase the oil was just a little below the hole. I think the crank throws oil all around in there and lubricates the ram and also the shaft bearing. Mine does not have any wing screw but there is a little bump in the casting on the shaft housing. Maybe yours is an improved model after they found out the shaft needed some additional oil. I don't see how they found that out, though. One time the electricity went out in the shop while I was doing something and I just got in the car and went to the coast for about two weeks. When I came back that thing was running. There is no play in the shaft or anything to indicate inadequate lubrication and the only noise it makes is a quiet little grunting sound. I think you are in good shape. Too bad you aren't close to me. I have a mind boggling collection of vee belts and pulleys... a lifetime supply. Oh well.

Another thing just occurred to me. One time I ran an old surplus motor whaleboat all the way back from the Bahamas to the north Gulf of Mexico with the water pump running on a piece of black polypropylene crab trap warp that I long-spliced into a belt... ran fine. You know pulling that saw is not exactly a high horsepower proposition. You could turn you a little wood pulley and super glue it on the motor shaft and keep your money for something more important.

Edited to add.

You could bore a hole in a rough disc of wood and super glue it onto the motor shaft and then turn it. That 3/4 hp would facilitate that operation.

There is one other thing: There is a little arrow cast into the top of the shaft housing on mine to indicate the direction of rotation. I guess the splasher in the crankcase is a one way deal.

I used to know the name of the company who built those things for Sears but I forgot that. I also forgot why I spent my hard earned money for that thing. There are other ways to cut out model airplane ribs. Oh well.

[ 11-28-2005, 05:32 PM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[J. Dillon]

Bingey, I like your style. Making yer own pulley sounds good. Improvisation is it's own reward. and the part about saving for something important :cool:

JD

[J. Dillon]

Bingey, I like your style. Making yer own pulley sounds good. Improvisation is it's own reward. and the part about saving for something important :cool:

JD

[J. Dillon]

Bingey, I like your style. Making yer own pulley sounds good. Improvisation is it's own reward. and the part about saving for something important :cool:

JD

[hoss]

I am a huge fan of old power tools (you should see my Lathe) but in some cases new designs do work better, (has anyone ever used a tilting table tablesaw?) This type of scroll saw might be O.K. for the occasional user, but not for heavy use.

I tried to set one of these up for use in a High School shop and I could never get the blade to stay on. They work with a spring on the upper arm which is supposed to maintain pressure on the blade. The parallel arm scroll saw are much, much better which is why they have replaced this type. We have used the parallel arm type for about 10 years with no problems, except for the poor quality of the cheap Rockwell/Delta consumer saw we were using. We have just replaced it with an Excalibar which is amazing.

The good news is your scroll saw will last forever (not as many moving parts)

As for blade guides scroll saws work on blade tension they do not use guides their purpose is to cut curves in light stock not go straight. I’m not meaning to disparage, your purchase it was a great deal.

[hoss]

I am a huge fan of old power tools (you should see my Lathe) but in some cases new designs do work better, (has anyone ever used a tilting table tablesaw?) This type of scroll saw might be O.K. for the occasional user, but not for heavy use.

I tried to set one of these up for use in a High School shop and I could never get the blade to stay on. They work with a spring on the upper arm which is supposed to maintain pressure on the blade. The parallel arm scroll saw are much, much better which is why they have replaced this type. We have used the parallel arm type for about 10 years with no problems, except for the poor quality of the cheap Rockwell/Delta consumer saw we were using. We have just replaced it with an Excalibar which is amazing.

The good news is your scroll saw will last forever (not as many moving parts)

As for blade guides scroll saws work on blade tension they do not use guides their purpose is to cut curves in light stock not go straight. I’m not meaning to disparage, your purchase it was a great deal.

[hoss]

I am a huge fan of old power tools (you should see my Lathe) but in some cases new designs do work better, (has anyone ever used a tilting table tablesaw?) This type of scroll saw might be O.K. for the occasional user, but not for heavy use.

I tried to set one of these up for use in a High School shop and I could never get the blade to stay on. They work with a spring on the upper arm which is supposed to maintain pressure on the blade. The parallel arm scroll saw are much, much better which is why they have replaced this type. We have used the parallel arm type for about 10 years with no problems, except for the poor quality of the cheap Rockwell/Delta consumer saw we were using. We have just replaced it with an Excalibar which is amazing.

The good news is your scroll saw will last forever (not as many moving parts)

As for blade guides scroll saws work on blade tension they do not use guides their purpose is to cut curves in light stock not go straight. I’m not meaning to disparage, your purchase it was a great deal.

[Tom Lathrop]

Originally posted by Old Bingey:
Y
Another thing just occurred to me. One time I ran an old surplus motor whaleboat all the way back from the Bahamas to the north Gulf of Mexico with the water pump running on a piece of black polypropylene crab trap warp that I long-spliced into a belt... ran fine. You know pulling that saw is not exactly a high horsepower proposition. You could turn you a little wood pulley and super glue it on the motor shaft and keep your money for something more important.You right Jack, Bingey got style. :D

And guts too, to ride a Navy whaleboat from the Bahamas to the Gulf. That is a great surprise since I would think that all Bingey's guts would have been rolled out before he got across the Gulf Stream. I don't have fond memories of those boats. We still use one as a race committee boat locally and, without the flopper stoppers down, it still can make you sick.

I once made an emergency diesel waterpump belt out of three loops of small nylon line but that is a long story.

[Tom Lathrop]

Originally posted by Old Bingey:
Y
Another thing just occurred to me. One time I ran an old surplus motor whaleboat all the way back from the Bahamas to the north Gulf of Mexico with the water pump running on a piece of black polypropylene crab trap warp that I long-spliced into a belt... ran fine. You know pulling that saw is not exactly a high horsepower proposition. You could turn you a little wood pulley and super glue it on the motor shaft and keep your money for something more important.You right Jack, Bingey got style. :D

And guts too, to ride a Navy whaleboat from the Bahamas to the Gulf. That is a great surprise since I would think that all Bingey's guts would have been rolled out before he got across the Gulf Stream. I don't have fond memories of those boats. We still use one as a race committee boat locally and, without the flopper stoppers down, it still can make you sick.

I once made an emergency diesel waterpump belt out of three loops of small nylon line but that is a long story.

[Tom Lathrop]

Originally posted by Old Bingey:
Y
Another thing just occurred to me. One time I ran an old surplus motor whaleboat all the way back from the Bahamas to the north Gulf of Mexico with the water pump running on a piece of black polypropylene crab trap warp that I long-spliced into a belt... ran fine. You know pulling that saw is not exactly a high horsepower proposition. You could turn you a little wood pulley and super glue it on the motor shaft and keep your money for something more important.You right Jack, Bingey got style. :D

And guts too, to ride a Navy whaleboat from the Bahamas to the Gulf. That is a great surprise since I would think that all Bingey's guts would have been rolled out before he got across the Gulf Stream. I don't have fond memories of those boats. We still use one as a race committee boat locally and, without the flopper stoppers down, it still can make you sick.

I once made an emergency diesel waterpump belt out of three loops of small nylon line but that is a long story.

[Old Bingey]

Y'all have been mighty kind and polite on here. I have been lurking for years and, from what I have seen, I got sort of scared. I try to avoid impotent rage all I can so I confined my comments to things within the extremely narrow range of my experience and only then when it looked like none of the experienced members of this forum was going to answer a legitimate question about something that I thought I knew a little about.

That whaleboat was not an act of courage but desperation. That was the best I could do at the time (paid $400 for it). My family and I made a bunch of trips back and forth to the Bahamas in it as an open boat. We had an awning but that was all. We stayed all summer long. Tom is right. A whaleboat is the champion roller of all time and wet... whew. It would roll your butt on the seat until it made a callous and then wet that and turn it into a damned carbuncle.

What it is with this day is that I got run in by the rain and my feet are too sore from old age and standing around on concrete too much to do any meaningful work so I have been googling and ebaying and writing nonsense. I'll be gone in a little while, though... boat already loaded. Which this boat does not roll. Ha.

[ 11-28-2005, 07:15 PM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[Old Bingey]

Y'all have been mighty kind and polite on here. I have been lurking for years and, from what I have seen, I got sort of scared. I try to avoid impotent rage all I can so I confined my comments to things within the extremely narrow range of my experience and only then when it looked like none of the experienced members of this forum was going to answer a legitimate question about something that I thought I knew a little about.

That whaleboat was not an act of courage but desperation. That was the best I could do at the time (paid $400 for it). My family and I made a bunch of trips back and forth to the Bahamas in it as an open boat. We had an awning but that was all. We stayed all summer long. Tom is right. A whaleboat is the champion roller of all time and wet... whew. It would roll your butt on the seat until it made a callous and then wet that and turn it into a damned carbuncle.

What it is with this day is that I got run in by the rain and my feet are too sore from old age and standing around on concrete too much to do any meaningful work so I have been googling and ebaying and writing nonsense. I'll be gone in a little while, though... boat already loaded. Which this boat does not roll. Ha.

[ 11-28-2005, 07:15 PM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[Old Bingey]

Y'all have been mighty kind and polite on here. I have been lurking for years and, from what I have seen, I got sort of scared. I try to avoid impotent rage all I can so I confined my comments to things within the extremely narrow range of my experience and only then when it looked like none of the experienced members of this forum was going to answer a legitimate question about something that I thought I knew a little about.

That whaleboat was not an act of courage but desperation. That was the best I could do at the time (paid $400 for it). My family and I made a bunch of trips back and forth to the Bahamas in it as an open boat. We had an awning but that was all. We stayed all summer long. Tom is right. A whaleboat is the champion roller of all time and wet... whew. It would roll your butt on the seat until it made a callous and then wet that and turn it into a damned carbuncle.

What it is with this day is that I got run in by the rain and my feet are too sore from old age and standing around on concrete too much to do any meaningful work so I have been googling and ebaying and writing nonsense. I'll be gone in a little while, though... boat already loaded. Which this boat does not roll. Ha.

[ 11-28-2005, 07:15 PM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[nedL]

Agreed, they are not workhorses, but the old scrollsaws do nicely on light weight, intricate little stuff, and they last forever if taken care of. I picked this one up at the 'dump', all set up & ready to go (ok, so I had to put new bushings in the bottom half :D )
Her you can see the oil fill 'high' & 'low' level holes.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/pb629a8bc12370a1cb7ebb3f6f602c584/f1453144.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/p41f7b2fd97a6eb9ff1010430af97cf79/f14530a8.jpg
It even came with the small wing-nut termination motor. smile.gif

[nedL]

Agreed, they are not workhorses, but the old scrollsaws do nicely on light weight, intricate little stuff, and they last forever if taken care of. I picked this one up at the 'dump', all set up & ready to go (ok, so I had to put new bushings in the bottom half :D )
Her you can see the oil fill 'high' & 'low' level holes.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/pb629a8bc12370a1cb7ebb3f6f602c584/f1453144.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/p41f7b2fd97a6eb9ff1010430af97cf79/f14530a8.jpg
It even came with the small wing-nut termination motor. smile.gif

[nedL]

Agreed, they are not workhorses, but the old scrollsaws do nicely on light weight, intricate little stuff, and they last forever if taken care of. I picked this one up at the 'dump', all set up & ready to go (ok, so I had to put new bushings in the bottom half :D )
Her you can see the oil fill 'high' & 'low' level holes.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/pb629a8bc12370a1cb7ebb3f6f602c584/f1453144.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/p41f7b2fd97a6eb9ff1010430af97cf79/f14530a8.jpg
It even came with the small wing-nut termination motor. smile.gif

[J. Dillon]

Old Bingey,

I found and mounted a 2" pulley on the motor and it sure made a differance. The beast allowed me to approach it and make a cut. BUT it sure is noisy. It sound like a bearing rap or a knocking engine. Is this it's normal sound ? I suspect the proper adjustment of the blade clamp with a new blade might tame it down a bit. I turned it by hand first before turning it on and there seems to be always a little hardly perceptable bend in the blade during the cycle. No matter how careful I try to get this out it wants to remain.

The machine runs smoothly with no blade so I think the quieting of it's nature lies in the blade tightening procedure. Any suggestions ?

Clue less JD :rolleyes:

[J. Dillon]

Old Bingey,

I found and mounted a 2" pulley on the motor and it sure made a differance. The beast allowed me to approach it and make a cut. BUT it sure is noisy. It sound like a bearing rap or a knocking engine. Is this it's normal sound ? I suspect the proper adjustment of the blade clamp with a new blade might tame it down a bit. I turned it by hand first before turning it on and there seems to be always a little hardly perceptable bend in the blade during the cycle. No matter how careful I try to get this out it wants to remain.

The machine runs smoothly with no blade so I think the quieting of it's nature lies in the blade tightening procedure. Any suggestions ?

Clue less JD :rolleyes:

[J. Dillon]

Old Bingey,

I found and mounted a 2" pulley on the motor and it sure made a differance. The beast allowed me to approach it and make a cut. BUT it sure is noisy. It sound like a bearing rap or a knocking engine. Is this it's normal sound ? I suspect the proper adjustment of the blade clamp with a new blade might tame it down a bit. I turned it by hand first before turning it on and there seems to be always a little hardly perceptable bend in the blade during the cycle. No matter how careful I try to get this out it wants to remain.

The machine runs smoothly with no blade so I think the quieting of it's nature lies in the blade tightening procedure. Any suggestions ?

Clue less JD :rolleyes:

[Old Bingey]

JD

It must be the blade adjustment. I think you might not have the blade stuck down in there (or up in there) quite far enough and the top plunger is hitting whatever stops it at the top of the stroke. There is a good bit of leeway (?) but the top plunger must not hit the stop at either the top or the bottom of it's stroke. Just loosen either Allen screw and pull down on the top plunger to get the blade to go into the chuck a little further and then turn it by hand and watch the blade. You should not feel any binding nor should you see the blade flex at all. Might have to loosen both screws, one at a time, to take up enough slack.

[Old Bingey]

JD

It must be the blade adjustment. I think you might not have the blade stuck down in there (or up in there) quite far enough and the top plunger is hitting whatever stops it at the top of the stroke. There is a good bit of leeway (?) but the top plunger must not hit the stop at either the top or the bottom of it's stroke. Just loosen either Allen screw and pull down on the top plunger to get the blade to go into the chuck a little further and then turn it by hand and watch the blade. You should not feel any binding nor should you see the blade flex at all. Might have to loosen both screws, one at a time, to take up enough slack.

[Old Bingey]

JD

It must be the blade adjustment. I think you might not have the blade stuck down in there (or up in there) quite far enough and the top plunger is hitting whatever stops it at the top of the stroke. There is a good bit of leeway (?) but the top plunger must not hit the stop at either the top or the bottom of it's stroke. Just loosen either Allen screw and pull down on the top plunger to get the blade to go into the chuck a little further and then turn it by hand and watch the blade. You should not feel any binding nor should you see the blade flex at all. Might have to loosen both screws, one at a time, to take up enough slack.

[J. Dillon]

Old Bingey,

If all is correct, what should the noise level be ? Should I hear a "knock"?

JD :rolleyes:

[J. Dillon]

Old Bingey,

If all is correct, what should the noise level be ? Should I hear a "knock"?

JD :rolleyes:

[J. Dillon]

Old Bingey,

If all is correct, what should the noise level be ? Should I hear a "knock"?

JD :rolleyes:

[Old Bingey]

No.. more like a little grunt but it is quiet.

[Old Bingey]

No.. more like a little grunt but it is quiet.

[Old Bingey]

No.. more like a little grunt but it is quiet.

[Old Bingey]

On second thought, I think that grunting noise was me. Then there was a wheezing noise but that was me, too.

[Old Bingey]

On second thought, I think that grunting noise was me. Then there was a wheezing noise but that was me, too.

[Old Bingey]

On second thought, I think that grunting noise was me. Then there was a wheezing noise but that was me, too.

[J. Dillon]

I make all of the sounds you mentioned O.B. and a few more but the noise level the saw makes drowns em all out. On the plus side the saw does cut beautifuly much tighter turns then the band saw.

I got the adjustment right as the blade doesn't give a hint of a bend but when it comes up to TDC it seems to bonk into the bottom of the spring housing thus causing the racket it makes. Kind of sounds like the machine gun the Red Baron used, but what a cut.

JD :D

[J. Dillon]

I make all of the sounds you mentioned O.B. and a few more but the noise level the saw makes drowns em all out. On the plus side the saw does cut beautifuly much tighter turns then the band saw.

I got the adjustment right as the blade doesn't give a hint of a bend but when it comes up to TDC it seems to bonk into the bottom of the spring housing thus causing the racket it makes. Kind of sounds like the machine gun the Red Baron used, but what a cut.

JD :D

[J. Dillon]

I make all of the sounds you mentioned O.B. and a few more but the noise level the saw makes drowns em all out. On the plus side the saw does cut beautifuly much tighter turns then the band saw.

I got the adjustment right as the blade doesn't give a hint of a bend but when it comes up to TDC it seems to bonk into the bottom of the spring housing thus causing the racket it makes. Kind of sounds like the machine gun the Red Baron used, but what a cut.

JD :D

[Old Bingey]

What is that black electrical tape looking stuff on the top of top plunger housing. On mine, there is a little loose fitting cap that lifts off. It has a hole in it to let the air in and out. Maybe that tape is inhibiting the breathing of the top cylinder and making something clatter or something. It isn't supposed to make hardly any noise at all. The chewing of the teeth of the blade is supposed to be the loudest thing and that ain't much.

[Old Bingey]

What is that black electrical tape looking stuff on the top of top plunger housing. On mine, there is a little loose fitting cap that lifts off. It has a hole in it to let the air in and out. Maybe that tape is inhibiting the breathing of the top cylinder and making something clatter or something. It isn't supposed to make hardly any noise at all. The chewing of the teeth of the blade is supposed to be the loudest thing and that ain't much.

[Old Bingey]

What is that black electrical tape looking stuff on the top of top plunger housing. On mine, there is a little loose fitting cap that lifts off. It has a hole in it to let the air in and out. Maybe that tape is inhibiting the breathing of the top cylinder and making something clatter or something. It isn't supposed to make hardly any noise at all. The chewing of the teeth of the blade is supposed to be the loudest thing and that ain't much.

[J. Dillon]

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/2972/jigsawandnewstand7ya.jpg

Thanks to the input here I got the saw rigged up and working almost OK. It still makes a clatter and I suspect Old Bingey is right it has to do with the top spring housing. When I press on it the noise is much muffled . The hole is clear and the tape holds down the cap which is quite prone to falling off. The press fit a bit worn out I guess.
The motor is on a hinged platform to permit belt tensioning. The little wheels on one side enable me to roll it around a bit and out of the way storage as shown. Boy that baby sure cuts neet curves!

Thanks for all the tips.

JD

[J. Dillon]

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/2972/jigsawandnewstand7ya.jpg

Thanks to the input here I got the saw rigged up and working almost OK. It still makes a clatter and I suspect Old Bingey is right it has to do with the top spring housing. When I press on it the noise is much muffled . The hole is clear and the tape holds down the cap which is quite prone to falling off. The press fit a bit worn out I guess.
The motor is on a hinged platform to permit belt tensioning. The little wheels on one side enable me to roll it around a bit and out of the way storage as shown. Boy that baby sure cuts neet curves!

Thanks for all the tips.

JD

[J. Dillon]

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/2972/jigsawandnewstand7ya.jpg

Thanks to the input here I got the saw rigged up and working almost OK. It still makes a clatter and I suspect Old Bingey is right it has to do with the top spring housing. When I press on it the noise is much muffled . The hole is clear and the tape holds down the cap which is quite prone to falling off. The press fit a bit worn out I guess.
The motor is on a hinged platform to permit belt tensioning. The little wheels on one side enable me to roll it around a bit and out of the way storage as shown. Boy that baby sure cuts neet curves!

Thanks for all the tips.

JD

[Old Bingey]

Take that cap off and see what it sounds like. Maybe the displacement of the piston is picking it up and sucking it down with every stroke. Maybe something is loose down in there. Maybe some hole down in the bottom that is supposed to vent the air from the bottom of the plunger is stopped up. Don't you hate a conundrum?...

[ 12-03-2005, 06:12 PM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[Old Bingey]

Take that cap off and see what it sounds like. Maybe the displacement of the piston is picking it up and sucking it down with every stroke. Maybe something is loose down in there. Maybe some hole down in the bottom that is supposed to vent the air from the bottom of the plunger is stopped up. Don't you hate a conundrum?...

[ 12-03-2005, 06:12 PM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[Old Bingey]

Take that cap off and see what it sounds like. Maybe the displacement of the piston is picking it up and sucking it down with every stroke. Maybe something is loose down in there. Maybe some hole down in the bottom that is supposed to vent the air from the bottom of the plunger is stopped up. Don't you hate a conundrum?...

[ 12-03-2005, 06:12 PM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]