Titebond III

[L.W. Baxter]

Just picked up a bottle of this (apparently?) new product at Rockler. "Waterproof". Says right on the label. Anybody believing that?

I'm going to set some bungs with it on my Dory. Not planking, but gunnels and thwarts. I might also glue up some (above the waterline) parts of my rudder with it.

I'll let you know in a couple years how it holds up! ;)

--Lee

[L.W. Baxter]

Just picked up a bottle of this (apparently?) new product at Rockler. "Waterproof". Says right on the label. Anybody believing that?

I'm going to set some bungs with it on my Dory. Not planking, but gunnels and thwarts. I might also glue up some (above the waterline) parts of my rudder with it.

I'll let you know in a couple years how it holds up! ;)

--Lee

[L.W. Baxter]

Just picked up a bottle of this (apparently?) new product at Rockler. "Waterproof". Says right on the label. Anybody believing that?

I'm going to set some bungs with it on my Dory. Not planking, but gunnels and thwarts. I might also glue up some (above the waterline) parts of my rudder with it.

I'll let you know in a couple years how it holds up! ;)

--Lee

[NormMessinger]

Kan't say but what was in their ad in Fine Woodworking. They claim it is more waterproof that Titebond II.

[NormMessinger]

Kan't say but what was in their ad in Fine Woodworking. They claim it is more waterproof that Titebond II.

[NormMessinger]

Kan't say but what was in their ad in Fine Woodworking. They claim it is more waterproof that Titebond II.

[Tom Lathrop]

If you read the fine print on Franklin's website for Titebond lll, it says that it is not for continuous submersion or "for structural members under continuous load" or words to that effect. They claim it is more waterproof than Titebond ll but I see no reason to use it in preference to type ll which is applicable for structural loads. Apparently the type lll is subject to creep under load.

Norm, I have only a little data on the Gorilla glue strength but am not impressed enough to look further. The bottle I bought has long since gone hard on the shelf and will not buy another. I have written it off as too much hype.

[ 03-22-2004, 10:50 PM: Message edited by: Tom Lathrop ]

[Tom Lathrop]

If you read the fine print on Franklin's website for Titebond lll, it says that it is not for continuous submersion or "for structural members under continuous load" or words to that effect. They claim it is more waterproof than Titebond ll but I see no reason to use it in preference to type ll which is applicable for structural loads. Apparently the type lll is subject to creep under load.

Norm, I have only a little data on the Gorilla glue strength but am not impressed enough to look further. The bottle I bought has long since gone hard on the shelf and will not buy another. I have written it off as too much hype.

[ 03-22-2004, 10:50 PM: Message edited by: Tom Lathrop ]

[Tom Lathrop]

If you read the fine print on Franklin's website for Titebond lll, it says that it is not for continuous submersion or "for structural members under continuous load" or words to that effect. They claim it is more waterproof than Titebond ll but I see no reason to use it in preference to type ll which is applicable for structural loads. Apparently the type lll is subject to creep under load.

Norm, I have only a little data on the Gorilla glue strength but am not impressed enough to look further. The bottle I bought has long since gone hard on the shelf and will not buy another. I have written it off as too much hype.

[ 03-22-2004, 10:50 PM: Message edited by: Tom Lathrop ]

[NormMessinger]

Thanks Tom. It will be interesting to read the spin the magazine reviews put on this glue. From what you found, I wonder what niche III is intended to fill.

[NormMessinger]

Thanks Tom. It will be interesting to read the spin the magazine reviews put on this glue. From what you found, I wonder what niche III is intended to fill.

[NormMessinger]

Thanks Tom. It will be interesting to read the spin the magazine reviews put on this glue. From what you found, I wonder what niche III is intended to fill.

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Tom Lathrop:
Norm, I have only a little data on the Gorilla glue strength but am not impressed enough to look further. The bottle I bought has long since gone hard on the shelf and will not buy another. I have written it off as too much hype.Once you open the container of polyurethane glues, it starts to cure. I believe you only get 6 months to a year after opening before it's toast. The Gorilla glue folk recommend freezing the stuff.

Buy your polyurethane glue in as small a bottle as possible.

It also wants a thin glue line as well and decent clamping pressure, else the foaming action will give you not a good bond.

On the plus side, it has relatively long open time (20-40 minutes) and a relatively short clamp time (1-4 hours), though you do have to be reasonably spritely in clamping up once you close the joint as it foams fairly quickly (assuming you applied it according the directions—it wants glue on one side of the joint and a spritz of water on the other).

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Tom Lathrop:
Norm, I have only a little data on the Gorilla glue strength but am not impressed enough to look further. The bottle I bought has long since gone hard on the shelf and will not buy another. I have written it off as too much hype.Once you open the container of polyurethane glues, it starts to cure. I believe you only get 6 months to a year after opening before it's toast. The Gorilla glue folk recommend freezing the stuff.

Buy your polyurethane glue in as small a bottle as possible.

It also wants a thin glue line as well and decent clamping pressure, else the foaming action will give you not a good bond.

On the plus side, it has relatively long open time (20-40 minutes) and a relatively short clamp time (1-4 hours), though you do have to be reasonably spritely in clamping up once you close the joint as it foams fairly quickly (assuming you applied it according the directions—it wants glue on one side of the joint and a spritz of water on the other).

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Tom Lathrop:
Norm, I have only a little data on the Gorilla glue strength but am not impressed enough to look further. The bottle I bought has long since gone hard on the shelf and will not buy another. I have written it off as too much hype.Once you open the container of polyurethane glues, it starts to cure. I believe you only get 6 months to a year after opening before it's toast. The Gorilla glue folk recommend freezing the stuff.

Buy your polyurethane glue in as small a bottle as possible.

It also wants a thin glue line as well and decent clamping pressure, else the foaming action will give you not a good bond.

On the plus side, it has relatively long open time (20-40 minutes) and a relatively short clamp time (1-4 hours), though you do have to be reasonably spritely in clamping up once you close the joint as it foams fairly quickly (assuming you applied it according the directions—it wants glue on one side of the joint and a spritz of water on the other).

[Tom Lathrop]

Nicholas,

I'm not a bash Gorilla groupie but I do have a question. With the obvious limitations, why should we be interested in Gorilla when there are other glues that meet or exceed its properties in all wood joining cases that I know of and don't have those limitations plus being far cheaper?

The only place where I found this type of glue useful is in repair of flexible projects like conveyer belts and sailing boots.

[Tom Lathrop]

Nicholas,

I'm not a bash Gorilla groupie but I do have a question. With the obvious limitations, why should we be interested in Gorilla when there are other glues that meet or exceed its properties in all wood joining cases that I know of and don't have those limitations plus being far cheaper?

The only place where I found this type of glue useful is in repair of flexible projects like conveyer belts and sailing boots.

[Tom Lathrop]

Nicholas,

I'm not a bash Gorilla groupie but I do have a question. With the obvious limitations, why should we be interested in Gorilla when there are other glues that meet or exceed its properties in all wood joining cases that I know of and don't have those limitations plus being far cheaper?

The only place where I found this type of glue useful is in repair of flexible projects like conveyer belts and sailing boots.

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Tom Lathrop:
…why should we be interested in Gorilla when there are other glues that meet or exceed its properties in all wood joining cases that I know of and don't have those limitations plus being far cheaper?I think the long open time and relatively short clamp time polyurethanes offer have something going for it. Doing a complicated glueup when you've only got, say, 10 minutes to get everything close, clamped and squared can be, um, stressful. And the sooner you can get the clamps off, the sooner you can use the clamps for something else.

Also the fact that cleanup is relatively easy (alcohol before it's cured) and they take stains well so any squeeze-out is less likely to blotch when the finish is applied counts as a plus in my book.

I'm not arguing that polyurethane glues—or, for that matter, epoxies, 5200 or any other type of glue—are the be-all and end-all[1] of glues: they're just more arrows in the quiver, each good for certain problems. They've all got their advantages, quirks and disadvantages.

And like most things, if ya donts read the documentation and possibly even follow the recommended procedures[2], you're likely to be disappointed with the performance.

—
[1] I happen to think that hot hide glue has a lot going for it (not to mention true french polish: no pumice fillers, no oil, just shellac padded on with a tampon).

[2] At least until you understand the way the stuff, whatever it is, behaves. You can'ts run until you can walk.

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Tom Lathrop:
…why should we be interested in Gorilla when there are other glues that meet or exceed its properties in all wood joining cases that I know of and don't have those limitations plus being far cheaper?I think the long open time and relatively short clamp time polyurethanes offer have something going for it. Doing a complicated glueup when you've only got, say, 10 minutes to get everything close, clamped and squared can be, um, stressful. And the sooner you can get the clamps off, the sooner you can use the clamps for something else.

Also the fact that cleanup is relatively easy (alcohol before it's cured) and they take stains well so any squeeze-out is less likely to blotch when the finish is applied counts as a plus in my book.

I'm not arguing that polyurethane glues—or, for that matter, epoxies, 5200 or any other type of glue—are the be-all and end-all[1] of glues: they're just more arrows in the quiver, each good for certain problems. They've all got their advantages, quirks and disadvantages.

And like most things, if ya donts read the documentation and possibly even follow the recommended procedures[2], you're likely to be disappointed with the performance.

—
[1] I happen to think that hot hide glue has a lot going for it (not to mention true french polish: no pumice fillers, no oil, just shellac padded on with a tampon).

[2] At least until you understand the way the stuff, whatever it is, behaves. You can'ts run until you can walk.

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Tom Lathrop:
…why should we be interested in Gorilla when there are other glues that meet or exceed its properties in all wood joining cases that I know of and don't have those limitations plus being far cheaper?I think the long open time and relatively short clamp time polyurethanes offer have something going for it. Doing a complicated glueup when you've only got, say, 10 minutes to get everything close, clamped and squared can be, um, stressful. And the sooner you can get the clamps off, the sooner you can use the clamps for something else.

Also the fact that cleanup is relatively easy (alcohol before it's cured) and they take stains well so any squeeze-out is less likely to blotch when the finish is applied counts as a plus in my book.

I'm not arguing that polyurethane glues—or, for that matter, epoxies, 5200 or any other type of glue—are the be-all and end-all[1] of glues: they're just more arrows in the quiver, each good for certain problems. They've all got their advantages, quirks and disadvantages.

And like most things, if ya donts read the documentation and possibly even follow the recommended procedures[2], you're likely to be disappointed with the performance.

—
[1] I happen to think that hot hide glue has a lot going for it (not to mention true french polish: no pumice fillers, no oil, just shellac padded on with a tampon).

[2] At least until you understand the way the stuff, whatever it is, behaves. You can'ts run until you can walk.

[Tom Lathrop]

Thanks for the reply Nicholas. We only had hot hide glue when I was in school shop a few generations ago. Now that was short working time and near zero clamp time. I remember sitting in a seminar with Tage Frid when he stuck two pieces of end grain wood together at right angles with hide glue and almost immediately threw the thing onto the concrete floor. It just bounced and did not break which shocked just about every one there. We often get stuck on the latest technology and forget what worked in the past and is still applicable today. Now, if we just had some waterproof hide glue that did not require a hot pot and was still as good as the regular stuff.

I still have a problem with anything that goes bad on the shelf between the times I would find use for it.

[Tom Lathrop]

Thanks for the reply Nicholas. We only had hot hide glue when I was in school shop a few generations ago. Now that was short working time and near zero clamp time. I remember sitting in a seminar with Tage Frid when he stuck two pieces of end grain wood together at right angles with hide glue and almost immediately threw the thing onto the concrete floor. It just bounced and did not break which shocked just about every one there. We often get stuck on the latest technology and forget what worked in the past and is still applicable today. Now, if we just had some waterproof hide glue that did not require a hot pot and was still as good as the regular stuff.

I still have a problem with anything that goes bad on the shelf between the times I would find use for it.

[Tom Lathrop]

Thanks for the reply Nicholas. We only had hot hide glue when I was in school shop a few generations ago. Now that was short working time and near zero clamp time. I remember sitting in a seminar with Tage Frid when he stuck two pieces of end grain wood together at right angles with hide glue and almost immediately threw the thing onto the concrete floor. It just bounced and did not break which shocked just about every one there. We often get stuck on the latest technology and forget what worked in the past and is still applicable today. Now, if we just had some waterproof hide glue that did not require a hot pot and was still as good as the regular stuff.

I still have a problem with anything that goes bad on the shelf between the times I would find use for it.

[buhmkin]

Does anyone understand what happens with polyurethane glue and moisture to make it foam? That's some kind of voodoo.

[buhmkin]

Does anyone understand what happens with polyurethane glue and moisture to make it foam? That's some kind of voodoo.

[buhmkin]

Does anyone understand what happens with polyurethane glue and moisture to make it foam? That's some kind of voodoo.

[Donn]

No, that would be gluedoo.

[Donn]

No, that would be gluedoo.

[Donn]

No, that would be gluedoo.

[buhmkin]

Holy smokes, you mean I've been sacrificing the wrong kind of virgins? I'll start offering the equine type of sacrifice to the hide glue demons that I may safely continue to use these new fangled glues without fail.
Gluedoo, too funny. . .

[buhmkin]

Holy smokes, you mean I've been sacrificing the wrong kind of virgins? I'll start offering the equine type of sacrifice to the hide glue demons that I may safely continue to use these new fangled glues without fail.
Gluedoo, too funny. . .

[buhmkin]

Holy smokes, you mean I've been sacrificing the wrong kind of virgins? I'll start offering the equine type of sacrifice to the hide glue demons that I may safely continue to use these new fangled glues without fail.
Gluedoo, too funny. . .

[Frank Wentzel]

I just checked the labels on "Original" Titebond and Titebond II. They both say they are "not for structural use". I suppose the weasels have gotten control and figure they will make no claims to avoid liability. But if an adhesive is not for structural use then what is it good for?

/// Frank ///

[ 03-28-2004, 10:27 PM: Message edited by: Frank Wentzel ]

[Frank Wentzel]

I just checked the labels on "Original" Titebond and Titebond II. They both say they are "not for structural use". I suppose the weasels have gotten control and figure they will make no claims to avoid liability. But if an adhesive is not for structural use then what is it good for?

/// Frank ///

[ 03-28-2004, 10:27 PM: Message edited by: Frank Wentzel ]

[Frank Wentzel]

I just checked the labels on "Original" Titebond and Titebond II. They both say they are "not for structural use". I suppose the weasels have gotten control and figure they will make no claims to avoid liability. But if an adhesive is not for structural use then what is it good for?

/// Frank ///

[ 03-28-2004, 10:27 PM: Message edited by: Frank Wentzel ]

[Dan McCosh]

I had a maple chair that had split across the seat when it checked. I glued the seat back with Titebond II at the crack--in the middle of the seat where it takes the greates strain. I forgot about the repair, until I noticed my 210-lb. son-in-law sitting on the chair with my 145-lb daughter on his lap. Seems to work for structures.

[Dan McCosh]

I had a maple chair that had split across the seat when it checked. I glued the seat back with Titebond II at the crack--in the middle of the seat where it takes the greates strain. I forgot about the repair, until I noticed my 210-lb. son-in-law sitting on the chair with my 145-lb daughter on his lap. Seems to work for structures.

[Dan McCosh]

I had a maple chair that had split across the seat when it checked. I glued the seat back with Titebond II at the crack--in the middle of the seat where it takes the greates strain. I forgot about the repair, until I noticed my 210-lb. son-in-law sitting on the chair with my 145-lb daughter on his lap. Seems to work for structures.