Semi traditional Cabin Sole - Your thoughts please

[Spissgatter W-9]

Shunning teak/holly ply for something more substantial, I'm thinking about covering the the subfloor (1/2" marine ply) with 1/4" X 2" teak strips. Separating the teak strips will be 1/2" X 3/8" strips of hard rock maple. The maple would be an 1/8" proud for good footing. All would be glued down with epoxy.

I would appreciate feedback on potential pitfalls with this plan. In particular, do you have any guidance on milling the maple from a 4/4 x 8' board? I've not made such thin strips and am concerned (perhaps unjustifiably) that could break and be propelled back, spearing the operator (me). But after having been hit once in the past by a piece of blunt ply I am understandingly very respective of the power of the table saw. Thanks

Geo.

[landlocked sailor]

If you use featherboards from the side & top you should be okay. I think your plan sounds perfect. Will you leave the wood unfinished? Rick

[ssor]

That will be pretty but tough on bare feet and terrible to sweep

[michigangeorge]

I like bare teak for when its rough and water is pouring down the companionway and when its nice I cover it with a made to fit rug which can be picked up and shaken out over the side. No mini brooms and dustpans or vacume cleaners to fuss with! Depending on the size and shape of your sole you may even find an oriental rug to fit and add some real style. Teak/holly (maple) is pretty but it is likely your alloted refinishing time could best be spent on other bright finished pieces of the boat instead of the one which recieves so much abuse and is usually not a focal point of the yacht.

[Mike Vogdes]

Sounds pretty nice but 1/8" proud sounds a little bit to high, perhaps 1/32"?

[paladin]

1/32 inch is standard, wipe the teak with fresh acetone where it is to be glued and then let it air out for at least 24 hours before gluing.....I forget what the varnish is, but there's one that isn't slick after application...mine is scrubbed and oiled, although I have considered the non-skid varnish...

[Spissgatter W-9]

Thanks for the input gents. The sole is fairly narrow ~26" at widest and long ~ 16'. Can see construction pics @ http://homepage.mac.com/george_boggs/PhotoAlbum14.html I was thinking about planing only the top side to take out any saw marks.

Haven't given much thought to finish except to avoid one that when wet would become slick. Would like to hear more about the non-skid varnish. Any more details? If left unfinished then would probably stain when food lands as is likely. So, will want to do something.

This is an old race boat. Will not be vacuming on a regular basis. Thought I would put a grate at foot of companionway to accept any splashes. Might have a cake pan underneath when I sweep to catch dirt/debris.

[Don Z.]

Maple? Isn't maple famous for its lack of rot resistance?

I know you're talking about rock maple, not sugar maple, but still...

[Spissgatter W-9]

Yes from what I read on this post, maple isn't rot resistant. This was offered as substitute for holly because of color and hardness. Would like to know more before install. Found it challenging to find holly of length.

[Bob Cleek]

You know, teak and holly soles give no better traction than plain old wood. The holly was really a decoration more than anything else. In fact, it was rarely used it seems. Why bother? You will find just as good traction with plain teak plank. Drill finger holes in each piece and lay them on the sole. They need only be oiled. They pull up easily and look very nice. No point in making yourself crazy trying to laminate teak and holly to plywood.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

I used 1/2" x 2" teak glued to 3/4" plywood and left 1/4" seams which I payed with deck caulking gloop.

Left bare, scrubbed, occasionally belt sanded. Effective non-slip and looks OK to me, but is easy to clean.

[ssor]

I guess that I am a heretic in this matter. I used black walnut well oiled. it isn't slippery when wet and doesn't water stain.

[Spissgatter W-9]

1/2" X 2" glued to 3/4" ply WoW that's hell for stout! (I've already bought just enough for 1/4" thick. It's my Christmas gift to me. The little Mrs saw the bill so it is costing twice as much after I buy her a little something). I like the way the lighter wood contrasts with the teak. At this point the question is whether to go forward with the maple strips or try to locate holly?

Thanks for input folks.
Geo

[FSS172]

On the cabin sole of my little Friendship sloop I did something very similar to what you're talking about - the difference being that over a base of 1/2 inch marine ply I used black cherry with maple strips instead of teak since cherry and pine was what I used for the rest of her interior.

http://www.dickinson.edu/departments/drama/public/cabin.jpg

Sorry about the toolbox being in the way; I don't have many photos of the interior of the boat. But perhaps there's enough of the sole exposed to give an idea. The boat is 25 years old now, and this method and materials have worked out fine. I did not leave the maple strips standing higher than the cherry; my thinking about that was....

1 - traction in such a small enclosed space with sitting headroom only didn't seem to be much of a concern.

2 - the resulting ridges would collect dirt and make refinishing more of a chore

3 - it would be almost impossible to keep a finish on the edges of the raised strips which would then admit moisture and dirt, discoloring the light wood, etc.

This sole is finished with varnish, at least ten coats, with the final coat wet sanded with 400 grit to a satin finish; traction is fine. It's true that maple isn't very rot resistant compared with other species; but in this application the wood never sees the stagnant damp conditions that promote rot. Be sure to seal all end and edge grain well. It's worked for me...

Jim

[Spissgatter W-9]

Wow, would like to seem more pics!. Thanks for sharing your experience.
geo