Rigging knife?

[tidmarsh]

Does this look like it might make a good rigging knife?
http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/carving/99w3980s2.jpg

From Lee Valley:
A hefty, strong blade made from 420 stainless steel, Rc53 that is a good all-purpose shop knife.

As the blade is 1/8" thick, it can be used for general hacking, such things as cleaving wedges from wood or cutting heavy rope, both instances when you would strike the blade with a hammer. 6-1/2" long by 5/8" wide, with a 3" long hollow-ground, double-bevel blade. The best part: the $2.95 price.

Is 420 stainless a good alloy for blades? I know many stainless alloys don't take a good edge, but I don't know which ones.

[tidmarsh]

Does this look like it might make a good rigging knife?
http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/carving/99w3980s2.jpg

From Lee Valley:
A hefty, strong blade made from 420 stainless steel, Rc53 that is a good all-purpose shop knife.

As the blade is 1/8" thick, it can be used for general hacking, such things as cleaving wedges from wood or cutting heavy rope, both instances when you would strike the blade with a hammer. 6-1/2" long by 5/8" wide, with a 3" long hollow-ground, double-bevel blade. The best part: the $2.95 price.

Is 420 stainless a good alloy for blades? I know many stainless alloys don't take a good edge, but I don't know which ones.

[tidmarsh]

Does this look like it might make a good rigging knife?
http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/carving/99w3980s2.jpg

From Lee Valley:
A hefty, strong blade made from 420 stainless steel, Rc53 that is a good all-purpose shop knife.

As the blade is 1/8" thick, it can be used for general hacking, such things as cleaving wedges from wood or cutting heavy rope, both instances when you would strike the blade with a hammer. 6-1/2" long by 5/8" wide, with a 3" long hollow-ground, double-bevel blade. The best part: the $2.95 price.

Is 420 stainless a good alloy for blades? I know many stainless alloys don't take a good edge, but I don't know which ones.

[Ian McColgin]

Lee Valley is a terrific company and for that reason this unit must, surely, have some utility. But I don't see it.

Looks a bit like a paint/plaster knife except that the handle is actually below the blade line so you can't cut anything on the flat.

For a rigging knife, I prefer a slightly rockered blade a bit off-set from the handle. The blade should have a very hefty back as one of the best ways to get lines to have a clean end is to put the edge against the line and smack the knife with a belaying pin or something.

Good sailors are said to be able to do this even on a varnished surface but I keep a bit of plank in my ditty bag.

[Ian McColgin]

Lee Valley is a terrific company and for that reason this unit must, surely, have some utility. But I don't see it.

Looks a bit like a paint/plaster knife except that the handle is actually below the blade line so you can't cut anything on the flat.

For a rigging knife, I prefer a slightly rockered blade a bit off-set from the handle. The blade should have a very hefty back as one of the best ways to get lines to have a clean end is to put the edge against the line and smack the knife with a belaying pin or something.

Good sailors are said to be able to do this even on a varnished surface but I keep a bit of plank in my ditty bag.

[Ian McColgin]

Lee Valley is a terrific company and for that reason this unit must, surely, have some utility. But I don't see it.

Looks a bit like a paint/plaster knife except that the handle is actually below the blade line so you can't cut anything on the flat.

For a rigging knife, I prefer a slightly rockered blade a bit off-set from the handle. The blade should have a very hefty back as one of the best ways to get lines to have a clean end is to put the edge against the line and smack the knife with a belaying pin or something.

Good sailors are said to be able to do this even on a varnished surface but I keep a bit of plank in my ditty bag.

[Seth Wood]

I got a bunch of these from Lee Valley. I agree with Ian: they're not quite the right shape for a rigging knife. And I find the handle a little small to fit in my hand for a good grip.

The back edge is extremely thick, though, and I keep them in the shop for whacking through stuff and sharpening pencils.

(Or I did, until a little Opinel became my pencil-sharpener of choice.)

Mainly it was fun coming up with different handles; you can never have too many knives.

[Seth Wood]

I got a bunch of these from Lee Valley. I agree with Ian: they're not quite the right shape for a rigging knife. And I find the handle a little small to fit in my hand for a good grip.

The back edge is extremely thick, though, and I keep them in the shop for whacking through stuff and sharpening pencils.

(Or I did, until a little Opinel became my pencil-sharpener of choice.)

Mainly it was fun coming up with different handles; you can never have too many knives.

[Seth Wood]

I got a bunch of these from Lee Valley. I agree with Ian: they're not quite the right shape for a rigging knife. And I find the handle a little small to fit in my hand for a good grip.

The back edge is extremely thick, though, and I keep them in the shop for whacking through stuff and sharpening pencils.

(Or I did, until a little Opinel became my pencil-sharpener of choice.)

Mainly it was fun coming up with different handles; you can never have too many knives.

[uncas]

I still like having a marlin spike...comes in handy sometimes...Save me going through a tool kit.

[uncas]

I still like having a marlin spike...comes in handy sometimes...Save me going through a tool kit.

[uncas]

I still like having a marlin spike...comes in handy sometimes...Save me going through a tool kit.

[moreygas]

tidmarsh,

My rigging knives have always been:
1. An old file that is dressed down into a knife.
2. Using a brick layers knife. They are usually high carbon steel and hold a great edge, once you dress them down to a nice bevel. I don’t recommend stainless steel for a rigging knife at all if possible. They are hard to drill a hole through for a lanyard (a definite must on any tool that may be used aloft) and to sharpen. They also are very thick backed for pounding. This is similar in appearance to the stainless steel knife you are interested in. I agree with Ian on having a slight rocker to the blade. This really allows one to cut through large line without banging your fingers holding the knife. Those fingers are always above the cutting surface. The handles always seem to be strips of leather either wrapped or riveted to the handle. It is easy enough to add a wooden handle.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p2323ad2d6e2fb285406d38951c1d1bd6/f51a3b62.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p16fe5baf7988e1accc1fcbbfa2d45900/f51a3b65.jpg

Here are a couple of photos of my rigging kit. Beside the knife is a tallow horn and pair of pliers. In the sheath is a marlingsplike and Swedish style fid. BTW the knife handle has a 28 strand Matthew Walker knot as a hand stop. This knife I have used to re-rig the Barque MOSHULU in 1995 and the GLENLEE in 1998. Trust me there was a lot of cutting going on. I am still using it aboard the ship BALCLUTHA and hopefully soon on the schooner CA THAYER in the near future.

Hope this helps.

Jamie White
Clyderigged - Clutha Fecit

[ 02-16-2005, 07:54 PM: Message edited by: moreygas ]

[moreygas]

tidmarsh,

My rigging knives have always been:
1. An old file that is dressed down into a knife.
2. Using a brick layers knife. They are usually high carbon steel and hold a great edge, once you dress them down to a nice bevel. I don’t recommend stainless steel for a rigging knife at all if possible. They are hard to drill a hole through for a lanyard (a definite must on any tool that may be used aloft) and to sharpen. They also are very thick backed for pounding. This is similar in appearance to the stainless steel knife you are interested in. I agree with Ian on having a slight rocker to the blade. This really allows one to cut through large line without banging your fingers holding the knife. Those fingers are always above the cutting surface. The handles always seem to be strips of leather either wrapped or riveted to the handle. It is easy enough to add a wooden handle.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p2323ad2d6e2fb285406d38951c1d1bd6/f51a3b62.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p16fe5baf7988e1accc1fcbbfa2d45900/f51a3b65.jpg

Here are a couple of photos of my rigging kit. Beside the knife is a tallow horn and pair of pliers. In the sheath is a marlingsplike and Swedish style fid. BTW the knife handle has a 28 strand Matthew Walker knot as a hand stop. This knife I have used to re-rig the Barque MOSHULU in 1995 and the GLENLEE in 1998. Trust me there was a lot of cutting going on. I am still using it aboard the ship BALCLUTHA and hopefully soon on the schooner CA THAYER in the near future.

Hope this helps.

Jamie White
Clyderigged - Clutha Fecit

[ 02-16-2005, 07:54 PM: Message edited by: moreygas ]

[moreygas]

tidmarsh,

My rigging knives have always been:
1. An old file that is dressed down into a knife.
2. Using a brick layers knife. They are usually high carbon steel and hold a great edge, once you dress them down to a nice bevel. I don’t recommend stainless steel for a rigging knife at all if possible. They are hard to drill a hole through for a lanyard (a definite must on any tool that may be used aloft) and to sharpen. They also are very thick backed for pounding. This is similar in appearance to the stainless steel knife you are interested in. I agree with Ian on having a slight rocker to the blade. This really allows one to cut through large line without banging your fingers holding the knife. Those fingers are always above the cutting surface. The handles always seem to be strips of leather either wrapped or riveted to the handle. It is easy enough to add a wooden handle.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p2323ad2d6e2fb285406d38951c1d1bd6/f51a3b62.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p16fe5baf7988e1accc1fcbbfa2d45900/f51a3b65.jpg

Here are a couple of photos of my rigging kit. Beside the knife is a tallow horn and pair of pliers. In the sheath is a marlingsplike and Swedish style fid. BTW the knife handle has a 28 strand Matthew Walker knot as a hand stop. This knife I have used to re-rig the Barque MOSHULU in 1995 and the GLENLEE in 1998. Trust me there was a lot of cutting going on. I am still using it aboard the ship BALCLUTHA and hopefully soon on the schooner CA THAYER in the near future.

Hope this helps.

Jamie White
Clyderigged - Clutha Fecit

[ 02-16-2005, 07:54 PM: Message edited by: moreygas ]

[Clyderigged]

The post is from me, Jamie White, Clyderigged

Sorry for the confussion / mistake. I signed on using my brother in law' moniker "moreygas" since I am using his computer. Oh well, guess I should just stick to rigging.

[Clyderigged]

The post is from me, Jamie White, Clyderigged

Sorry for the confussion / mistake. I signed on using my brother in law' moniker "moreygas" since I am using his computer. Oh well, guess I should just stick to rigging.

[Clyderigged]

The post is from me, Jamie White, Clyderigged

Sorry for the confussion / mistake. I signed on using my brother in law' moniker "moreygas" since I am using his computer. Oh well, guess I should just stick to rigging.

[Dave Fleming]

Jamie, good looking rig you have assembled there.

As a second best to a homemade knife may I suggest to folks the LINDER knife made in Germany.

After looking it over at Downwind Marine, here in San Diego, I recommended it to Bob Smalser who purchased one and made his own version of your riggers belt.

PS: what is the latest on the Thayer work?

[Dave Fleming]

Jamie, good looking rig you have assembled there.

As a second best to a homemade knife may I suggest to folks the LINDER knife made in Germany.

After looking it over at Downwind Marine, here in San Diego, I recommended it to Bob Smalser who purchased one and made his own version of your riggers belt.

PS: what is the latest on the Thayer work?

[Dave Fleming]

Jamie, good looking rig you have assembled there.

As a second best to a homemade knife may I suggest to folks the LINDER knife made in Germany.

After looking it over at Downwind Marine, here in San Diego, I recommended it to Bob Smalser who purchased one and made his own version of your riggers belt.

PS: what is the latest on the Thayer work?

[Clyderigged]

Dave, thanks for the compliment. I also think the Linder is a good rigging knife. Another reason why I like to have a thicker back knife is for cutting parceling, something that is often overlooked in using a rigging knife. Roll up an old linen bed sheet into a tight sausage and cut it into nice handy rolls of parceling.
The CA THAYER is coming along. I am stopping by the ship tomorrow and will give you a report.

Jamie

[Clyderigged]

Dave, thanks for the compliment. I also think the Linder is a good rigging knife. Another reason why I like to have a thicker back knife is for cutting parceling, something that is often overlooked in using a rigging knife. Roll up an old linen bed sheet into a tight sausage and cut it into nice handy rolls of parceling.
The CA THAYER is coming along. I am stopping by the ship tomorrow and will give you a report.

Jamie

[Clyderigged]

Dave, thanks for the compliment. I also think the Linder is a good rigging knife. Another reason why I like to have a thicker back knife is for cutting parceling, something that is often overlooked in using a rigging knife. Roll up an old linen bed sheet into a tight sausage and cut it into nice handy rolls of parceling.
The CA THAYER is coming along. I am stopping by the ship tomorrow and will give you a report.

Jamie

[tidmarsh]

Thanks for all the responses. Nice looking set of tools, Jamie.

It turns out the knife is smaller than I expected (the handle is a little short for my hand), so I don't think it'll be that useful for a rigging knife (not that I have much rigging on my little 12' catboat).

Now that I have it however, does anyone have suggestions for a source of rivets to attach a handle? Lee Valley sells them in boxes of 50, but I hate to spend $9 for 50 rivets to use two of them to attach a handle to a $3 blade.

[tidmarsh]

Thanks for all the responses. Nice looking set of tools, Jamie.

It turns out the knife is smaller than I expected (the handle is a little short for my hand), so I don't think it'll be that useful for a rigging knife (not that I have much rigging on my little 12' catboat).

Now that I have it however, does anyone have suggestions for a source of rivets to attach a handle? Lee Valley sells them in boxes of 50, but I hate to spend $9 for 50 rivets to use two of them to attach a handle to a $3 blade.

[tidmarsh]

Thanks for all the responses. Nice looking set of tools, Jamie.

It turns out the knife is smaller than I expected (the handle is a little short for my hand), so I don't think it'll be that useful for a rigging knife (not that I have much rigging on my little 12' catboat).

Now that I have it however, does anyone have suggestions for a source of rivets to attach a handle? Lee Valley sells them in boxes of 50, but I hate to spend $9 for 50 rivets to use two of them to attach a handle to a $3 blade.

[Bayboat]

Tidmarsh: Use peened-over large copper nails or rod.
As around-the-shop knives they should work well. Not so good as rigging knives. As said, the handle is short, although in making a wood or bone handle it could be extended back a bit. The main thing wrong is no protection for the hand (no hand stop). I suppose that could be incorporated into a carved handle. Or after many years' training you could make a multiple Matthew Walker like Jamie's. The rocker is essential for reasons given. RC53 is a bit soft, but easier to sharpen and hone. You just have to hone more often. The sheepsfoot shape is right. At the price they are "disposable", so why not whomp up a few?.
Jamie, that's a mighty fine looking professional kit. I presume you have some bigger spikes and fids for work on those square-riggers.

[ 02-19-2005, 11:32 PM: Message edited by: Bayboat ]

[Bayboat]

Tidmarsh: Use peened-over large copper nails or rod.
As around-the-shop knives they should work well. Not so good as rigging knives. As said, the handle is short, although in making a wood or bone handle it could be extended back a bit. The main thing wrong is no protection for the hand (no hand stop). I suppose that could be incorporated into a carved handle. Or after many years' training you could make a multiple Matthew Walker like Jamie's. The rocker is essential for reasons given. RC53 is a bit soft, but easier to sharpen and hone. You just have to hone more often. The sheepsfoot shape is right. At the price they are "disposable", so why not whomp up a few?.
Jamie, that's a mighty fine looking professional kit. I presume you have some bigger spikes and fids for work on those square-riggers.

[ 02-19-2005, 11:32 PM: Message edited by: Bayboat ]

[Bayboat]

Tidmarsh: Use peened-over large copper nails or rod.
As around-the-shop knives they should work well. Not so good as rigging knives. As said, the handle is short, although in making a wood or bone handle it could be extended back a bit. The main thing wrong is no protection for the hand (no hand stop). I suppose that could be incorporated into a carved handle. Or after many years' training you could make a multiple Matthew Walker like Jamie's. The rocker is essential for reasons given. RC53 is a bit soft, but easier to sharpen and hone. You just have to hone more often. The sheepsfoot shape is right. At the price they are "disposable", so why not whomp up a few?.
Jamie, that's a mighty fine looking professional kit. I presume you have some bigger spikes and fids for work on those square-riggers.

[ 02-19-2005, 11:32 PM: Message edited by: Bayboat ]

[sr. jigaboni]

PTI, but Jamie, did you also help with Gracie Quan? That is such a pretty boat. I imagine it was fun to work on the BALCUTHA, climbing around in that jungle, worming and parceling, rattling down and all that. That boat smells wonderful.

tidmarsh, those are still better knives than those folding crap-ass half-serrated stainless things they sell in "the catalogues" or "the stores".

peace
rigo

[sr. jigaboni]

PTI, but Jamie, did you also help with Gracie Quan? That is such a pretty boat. I imagine it was fun to work on the BALCUTHA, climbing around in that jungle, worming and parceling, rattling down and all that. That boat smells wonderful.

tidmarsh, those are still better knives than those folding crap-ass half-serrated stainless things they sell in "the catalogues" or "the stores".

peace
rigo

[sr. jigaboni]

PTI, but Jamie, did you also help with Gracie Quan? That is such a pretty boat. I imagine it was fun to work on the BALCUTHA, climbing around in that jungle, worming and parceling, rattling down and all that. That boat smells wonderful.

tidmarsh, those are still better knives than those folding crap-ass half-serrated stainless things they sell in "the catalogues" or "the stores".

peace
rigo

[Bayboat]

Just a note on the lanyards as seen on Jamie's kit. His appear to be sensibly short, to avoid being caught on something when climbing and working aloft. Lately I've seen some neophyte "bosuns" on the big schooners with very complex kits. It's a sort of occupational badge to put together a collection of knife, fid, spike, pliers, etc. (I haven't seen any tallow) and attach it to a fancy belt, with the lanyards invariably quite long. The bearers look for all the world like walking jalousie screens. I can just see one of them hanging head down and screaming bloody murder as he dangles by his lanyards from the trestle-trees. I was taught to stuff the lanyard into a pocket except then actually working with a tool.

[ 02-21-2005, 05:27 PM: Message edited by: Bayboat ]

[Bayboat]

Just a note on the lanyards as seen on Jamie's kit. His appear to be sensibly short, to avoid being caught on something when climbing and working aloft. Lately I've seen some neophyte "bosuns" on the big schooners with very complex kits. It's a sort of occupational badge to put together a collection of knife, fid, spike, pliers, etc. (I haven't seen any tallow) and attach it to a fancy belt, with the lanyards invariably quite long. The bearers look for all the world like walking jalousie screens. I can just see one of them hanging head down and screaming bloody murder as he dangles by his lanyards from the trestle-trees. I was taught to stuff the lanyard into a pocket except then actually working with a tool.

[ 02-21-2005, 05:27 PM: Message edited by: Bayboat ]

[Bayboat]

Just a note on the lanyards as seen on Jamie's kit. His appear to be sensibly short, to avoid being caught on something when climbing and working aloft. Lately I've seen some neophyte "bosuns" on the big schooners with very complex kits. It's a sort of occupational badge to put together a collection of knife, fid, spike, pliers, etc. (I haven't seen any tallow) and attach it to a fancy belt, with the lanyards invariably quite long. The bearers look for all the world like walking jalousie screens. I can just see one of them hanging head down and screaming bloody murder as he dangles by his lanyards from the trestle-trees. I was taught to stuff the lanyard into a pocket except then actually working with a tool.

[ 02-21-2005, 05:27 PM: Message edited by: Bayboat ]

[Hughman]

I found this setup useful....
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid79/pa423d4df1b7d4de1361ad594e562ceac/fb1bb0c3.jpg

[ 02-21-2005, 08:38 PM: Message edited by: Hughman ]

[Hughman]

I found this setup useful....
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid79/pa423d4df1b7d4de1361ad594e562ceac/fb1bb0c3.jpg

[ 02-21-2005, 08:38 PM: Message edited by: Hughman ]

[Hughman]

I found this setup useful....
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid79/pa423d4df1b7d4de1361ad594e562ceac/fb1bb0c3.jpg

[ 02-21-2005, 08:38 PM: Message edited by: Hughman ]