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Bill R
08-08-2014, 05:53 PM
I have a question for The Really Smart people here.

I am working on a project for a client- a corner desk similar in concept to this:

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm116/ryallworks/043505_ionly.jpg

The client sent me this picture because she really like the scallop detail on this piece. My question for The Really Smart People is how best to make those scallops.
I am assuming they are attached to a flat piece that actually forms the carcass. The other complexity with the rounded bottom edges is she would like the center to be a swing-down door rather than a pull out drawer.
I am still in the planning/sketching phase, so any advice, thoughts, comments are appreciated.

Thanks

Paul Pless
08-08-2014, 05:55 PM
Where's lefty when you need him?

Too Little Time
08-08-2014, 05:59 PM
You might find some wide trim moulding witha convex section. Rip off the parts you don't need. Cut to length. Glue to a backer board.

StevenBauer
08-08-2014, 06:02 PM
Do you know about Neils Sorenson on Riverside Street? Just past the dump, by the golf course. They sell supplies to cabinetmakers and would be a good place to look for the hardware for that pull down section.
For the scalloped pieces you could do something on the lathes or just get some cedar fence pickets and save a lot of work.

Steven

Tom Wilkinson
08-08-2014, 06:22 PM
Edge gluing fence pickets together would be the easiest solution. For folding down a piano hinge mounted just above the scalloped cuts would work with the bonus of the scallops acting as a stop so it doesn't fold too far down. Keyboard tray could pullout over it if that's what it's for.

paulf
08-08-2014, 06:26 PM
Get rounds of the right diameter, band saw the sides , now you have scallop boards and a square remnant. cut to length and make the scallop pieces have a little flat edge for connecting.

Gib Etheridge
08-08-2014, 06:59 PM
Shape the edge of a board with hand tools (block plane then longboard sander), rip the edge off, crosscut to lengths, round ends on bench sander and glue to backing board.

Whatever hinges you decide to use you will need to limit the swing so it doesn't get pried off. There are many types of European hinges that would work. They have the advantage of allowing the door to open to an out of the way (easier access) position and they will hold it closed without any other hardware.

If you decide against hinges earth magnets may be an option, good ones at Lee Valley.

Bill R
08-08-2014, 07:32 PM
Get rounds of the right diameter, band saw the sides , now you have scallop boards and a square remnant. cut to length and make the scallop pieces have a little flat edge for connecting.

This was my initial thought. I hadn't thought of fence pickets. I have some neat hidden hinges from the last job I did for this client, for doors that looked like drawers. She liked the way it turned out on that piece she asked me to do the same on this.

I did not know about Neils Sorensen Steven. I'll head there next time I am in the office. Thanks

StevenBauer
08-08-2014, 07:58 PM
The good stuff is at the counter in the back. The front is just a showroom for pulls and knobs and stuff.


Steven

Paul Girouard
08-09-2014, 10:57 AM
You can buy pre-made half round molding , you'd have to make the drawer front with a sub front , apply the half rounds , do your own bottom edge radius first , cut to length, glue and attach from the back side , or the front with a micro pinner if it a paint grade piece. Once the front is glued up, you could cut the sub front from the back side to proper length leaving a "proper" reveal around the edges.


ETA:
Better yet lay out the half rounds , and pre-cut and edge band the sub front to the right height and length to within a 1/8" or so , then trim off to exact H/L after the glue up. Getting the 1/2 round attached "plumb" or square to the sub front will take some care durning the glue up.



HR1

ETA::: The Half round link I snagged won't post , just Google half round moldings there a lot of people who sell it.




For a hinge a Soss type hinge may work , or a Euro hinge ( a better option) IF the hinge can take some space inside the opening. You didn't say why she wanted a drop front type drawer face , so not knowing the end use of the inside space it's hard to know what type of hinge.

Much larger than you need Soss hinge , they come in a variety of sizes.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/010.jpg (http://s21.photobucket.com/user/PEG688/media/010.jpg.html)



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/012-2.jpg (http://s21.photobucket.com/user/PEG688/media/012-2.jpg.html)


If she wants a tip out type tray inside you could use the standard tip out hardware used on kitchen sink cabinets.

These don't open all the way so you don't dump out the stuff in the tip-out tray , they are hard to adjust and PITA to install , BUT they do what they are designed to do , sort of OK, not great , but OK.



http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/imagejpg1_zps99dd4e76.jpg (http://s21.photobucket.com/user/PEG688/media/imagejpg1_zps99dd4e76.jpg.html)



So there's three different options and multiple sizes of Half round to pick from.

David G
08-09-2014, 01:21 PM
There are all sorts of picture frame and molding suppliers to google to find a profile that'll work for the scalloped skirt pieces. Or... as above, shape a stick (looks like about 8' would do?) and apply to a standard flat apron (the structural elements). As for the hardware... there is a lot of nifty hardware available that'll do the trick. Paul's right - the standard sink Tilt Out Tray hardware is finicky and a bit lightweight. I source better quality goodies at Hafele http://www.hafele.com/us/