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Phillip Allen
11-28-2004, 12:26 PM
It's a sixteen foot weekender and I need to laminate the keel. I'll need a lot so it needs to be economical (It's for use in a freshwater lake). Any ideas for a substitute for "marine" glues?...there are no marine stores near me...100 miles is the closest I know of.

Phillip Allen
11-28-2004, 12:26 PM
It's a sixteen foot weekender and I need to laminate the keel. I'll need a lot so it needs to be economical (It's for use in a freshwater lake). Any ideas for a substitute for "marine" glues?...there are no marine stores near me...100 miles is the closest I know of.

Phillip Allen
11-28-2004, 12:26 PM
It's a sixteen foot weekender and I need to laminate the keel. I'll need a lot so it needs to be economical (It's for use in a freshwater lake). Any ideas for a substitute for "marine" glues?...there are no marine stores near me...100 miles is the closest I know of.

Bob Cleek
11-28-2004, 02:01 PM
Check out Steve Smith at Smith and Co., Richmond, CA. They have a web site. They make CPES, but also a full line of industrial marine adhesives and coatings. Very reasonably priced. Good stuff. Comparable to anything else on the market. I believe they will ship. Best of all, you should be able to order supplies in commercial quantities. Most of the cost of this stuff is in the packaging. If you buy it in quart containers in a marine store, you'll pay twice what it really costs without the fancy advertising and retail markup.

Bob Cleek
11-28-2004, 02:01 PM
Check out Steve Smith at Smith and Co., Richmond, CA. They have a web site. They make CPES, but also a full line of industrial marine adhesives and coatings. Very reasonably priced. Good stuff. Comparable to anything else on the market. I believe they will ship. Best of all, you should be able to order supplies in commercial quantities. Most of the cost of this stuff is in the packaging. If you buy it in quart containers in a marine store, you'll pay twice what it really costs without the fancy advertising and retail markup.

Bob Cleek
11-28-2004, 02:01 PM
Check out Steve Smith at Smith and Co., Richmond, CA. They have a web site. They make CPES, but also a full line of industrial marine adhesives and coatings. Very reasonably priced. Good stuff. Comparable to anything else on the market. I believe they will ship. Best of all, you should be able to order supplies in commercial quantities. Most of the cost of this stuff is in the packaging. If you buy it in quart containers in a marine store, you'll pay twice what it really costs without the fancy advertising and retail markup.

capt jake
11-28-2004, 03:00 PM
It's a sixteen foot weekender and I need to laminate the keel. Philip, you may want to check out Messing About (http://www.messing-about.com/forum/) a lot of Weekender builders there.

capt jake
11-28-2004, 03:00 PM
It's a sixteen foot weekender and I need to laminate the keel. Philip, you may want to check out Messing About (http://www.messing-about.com/forum/) a lot of Weekender builders there.

capt jake
11-28-2004, 03:00 PM
It's a sixteen foot weekender and I need to laminate the keel. Philip, you may want to check out Messing About (http://www.messing-about.com/forum/) a lot of Weekender builders there.

Venchka
11-28-2004, 06:09 PM
Everybody will ship to you. Prowl around the Internet using GOOGLE for wooden boat building epoxy adhesive.

Folks here at the forum have praised System 3 T-88 adhesive, RAKA, MAS and even West System.

Epoxy really is the only readily available marine adhesive. I know, resourcinol works well. It's shortcomings, price and availablity reduce it to second place behind epoxy.

There are folks who swear by PL Premium adhesives for boat building. $7.50/quart tube at Lowe's or Home Depot.

You pays your money and takes your chances.

Reality check: If the price of epoxy has you stymied before you start...hmmmmmmmmmm :confused:

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

Venchka
11-28-2004, 06:09 PM
Everybody will ship to you. Prowl around the Internet using GOOGLE for wooden boat building epoxy adhesive.

Folks here at the forum have praised System 3 T-88 adhesive, RAKA, MAS and even West System.

Epoxy really is the only readily available marine adhesive. I know, resourcinol works well. It's shortcomings, price and availablity reduce it to second place behind epoxy.

There are folks who swear by PL Premium adhesives for boat building. $7.50/quart tube at Lowe's or Home Depot.

You pays your money and takes your chances.

Reality check: If the price of epoxy has you stymied before you start...hmmmmmmmmmm :confused:

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

Venchka
11-28-2004, 06:09 PM
Everybody will ship to you. Prowl around the Internet using GOOGLE for wooden boat building epoxy adhesive.

Folks here at the forum have praised System 3 T-88 adhesive, RAKA, MAS and even West System.

Epoxy really is the only readily available marine adhesive. I know, resourcinol works well. It's shortcomings, price and availablity reduce it to second place behind epoxy.

There are folks who swear by PL Premium adhesives for boat building. $7.50/quart tube at Lowe's or Home Depot.

You pays your money and takes your chances.

Reality check: If the price of epoxy has you stymied before you start...hmmmmmmmmmm :confused:

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

paul oman
11-28-2004, 06:42 PM
You can certainly use epoxy for the job, but be careful not to squeeze the joint so hard as to force out all the epoxy.

Generally the difference between a 'regular' epoxy and an epoxy adhesive is viscosity (the glue being thicker) and the adhesive being much less brittle.

You can buy a flexible 'bedding' epoxy or make your own semi thick, flexible epoxy adhesive with a few low cost addtives blended into your rigid marine epoxy.

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers
www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html (http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html)

paul oman
11-28-2004, 06:42 PM
You can certainly use epoxy for the job, but be careful not to squeeze the joint so hard as to force out all the epoxy.

Generally the difference between a 'regular' epoxy and an epoxy adhesive is viscosity (the glue being thicker) and the adhesive being much less brittle.

You can buy a flexible 'bedding' epoxy or make your own semi thick, flexible epoxy adhesive with a few low cost addtives blended into your rigid marine epoxy.

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers
www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html (http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html)

paul oman
11-28-2004, 06:42 PM
You can certainly use epoxy for the job, but be careful not to squeeze the joint so hard as to force out all the epoxy.

Generally the difference between a 'regular' epoxy and an epoxy adhesive is viscosity (the glue being thicker) and the adhesive being much less brittle.

You can buy a flexible 'bedding' epoxy or make your own semi thick, flexible epoxy adhesive with a few low cost addtives blended into your rigid marine epoxy.

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers
www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html (http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html)

Phillip Allen
11-28-2004, 06:46 PM
I'm not stymied but I don't intend to just throw money at it. $10 or $20 saved here and there add up and conversely $10 or $20 tossed off without looking for the best buy also add up. There are times when one can't screw the pennies very tightly and I'll deal whith those times as they arise.

Phillip Allen
11-28-2004, 06:46 PM
I'm not stymied but I don't intend to just throw money at it. $10 or $20 saved here and there add up and conversely $10 or $20 tossed off without looking for the best buy also add up. There are times when one can't screw the pennies very tightly and I'll deal whith those times as they arise.

Phillip Allen
11-28-2004, 06:46 PM
I'm not stymied but I don't intend to just throw money at it. $10 or $20 saved here and there add up and conversely $10 or $20 tossed off without looking for the best buy also add up. There are times when one can't screw the pennies very tightly and I'll deal whith those times as they arise.

JimConlin
11-28-2004, 07:08 PM
The epoxy for a wood-to-wood joint costs (very) roughly $.15 per square foot. If used strictly as an adhesive, the cost of epoxy in a small boat is negligible.

JimConlin
11-28-2004, 07:08 PM
The epoxy for a wood-to-wood joint costs (very) roughly $.15 per square foot. If used strictly as an adhesive, the cost of epoxy in a small boat is negligible.

JimConlin
11-28-2004, 07:08 PM
The epoxy for a wood-to-wood joint costs (very) roughly $.15 per square foot. If used strictly as an adhesive, the cost of epoxy in a small boat is negligible.

Phillip Allen
11-28-2004, 09:11 PM
I do like epoxy and have used it extensively (usually a four to one type called acraglass)

Phillip Allen
11-28-2004, 09:11 PM
I do like epoxy and have used it extensively (usually a four to one type called acraglass)

Phillip Allen
11-28-2004, 09:11 PM
I do like epoxy and have used it extensively (usually a four to one type called acraglass)

Tom Robb
11-29-2004, 04:34 PM
Semi-apocriphal story:
Newby asks, "What kind of glue do you use?"
Curmudgenly old boatwright mutters, "Carriage bolts...."

Also, since a weekender doesn't live in the water much or sail off soundings, try Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue.

Tom Robb
11-29-2004, 04:34 PM
Semi-apocriphal story:
Newby asks, "What kind of glue do you use?"
Curmudgenly old boatwright mutters, "Carriage bolts...."

Also, since a weekender doesn't live in the water much or sail off soundings, try Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue.

Tom Robb
11-29-2004, 04:34 PM
Semi-apocriphal story:
Newby asks, "What kind of glue do you use?"
Curmudgenly old boatwright mutters, "Carriage bolts...."

Also, since a weekender doesn't live in the water much or sail off soundings, try Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue.

Phillip Allen
11-29-2004, 05:27 PM
The plans call to glue and screw...every 4 or 5 inches...over two hundred screws for a sixteen foot keel. Mostly I'm trying to minimize places for water to set...the gue should help. The glue also keeps the laminated keel from "working".

Phillip Allen
11-29-2004, 05:27 PM
The plans call to glue and screw...every 4 or 5 inches...over two hundred screws for a sixteen foot keel. Mostly I'm trying to minimize places for water to set...the gue should help. The glue also keeps the laminated keel from "working".

Phillip Allen
11-29-2004, 05:27 PM
The plans call to glue and screw...every 4 or 5 inches...over two hundred screws for a sixteen foot keel. Mostly I'm trying to minimize places for water to set...the gue should help. The glue also keeps the laminated keel from "working".

Paul H
11-29-2004, 06:30 PM
I'd use epoxy and a fiber filler to keep the glue line from starving. You can use drywall screws for temporary clamps, and remove and fill them as you go. That'll save you the cost of fasteners, as well as keeping metal that can corrode out of the keel.

The way I look at boat building is, raw materials, which includes wood, adhesive and fasteners is the absolutely last place to try and save a buck. Since you can't upgrade your raw materials should you make a bad choice, the life of the boat, and the labor you put into it can be adversely compromised. Anything ancilary equipment that can be upgraded (including paint), or added at a later date is the place to save $.

Unfortunately epoxy is expensive in smaller quantities, ie less than a gallon, and even the gallon prices are kinda stiff. Jamestown does have System III epoxy gallon sized containers on sale, and their shipping is fast and reasonable, even up to Alaska. A galon of resin, 1/2 gallon of hardener, and some plastic mini fiber filler should do the trick.

Paul H
11-29-2004, 06:30 PM
I'd use epoxy and a fiber filler to keep the glue line from starving. You can use drywall screws for temporary clamps, and remove and fill them as you go. That'll save you the cost of fasteners, as well as keeping metal that can corrode out of the keel.

The way I look at boat building is, raw materials, which includes wood, adhesive and fasteners is the absolutely last place to try and save a buck. Since you can't upgrade your raw materials should you make a bad choice, the life of the boat, and the labor you put into it can be adversely compromised. Anything ancilary equipment that can be upgraded (including paint), or added at a later date is the place to save $.

Unfortunately epoxy is expensive in smaller quantities, ie less than a gallon, and even the gallon prices are kinda stiff. Jamestown does have System III epoxy gallon sized containers on sale, and their shipping is fast and reasonable, even up to Alaska. A galon of resin, 1/2 gallon of hardener, and some plastic mini fiber filler should do the trick.

Paul H
11-29-2004, 06:30 PM
I'd use epoxy and a fiber filler to keep the glue line from starving. You can use drywall screws for temporary clamps, and remove and fill them as you go. That'll save you the cost of fasteners, as well as keeping metal that can corrode out of the keel.

The way I look at boat building is, raw materials, which includes wood, adhesive and fasteners is the absolutely last place to try and save a buck. Since you can't upgrade your raw materials should you make a bad choice, the life of the boat, and the labor you put into it can be adversely compromised. Anything ancilary equipment that can be upgraded (including paint), or added at a later date is the place to save $.

Unfortunately epoxy is expensive in smaller quantities, ie less than a gallon, and even the gallon prices are kinda stiff. Jamestown does have System III epoxy gallon sized containers on sale, and their shipping is fast and reasonable, even up to Alaska. A galon of resin, 1/2 gallon of hardener, and some plastic mini fiber filler should do the trick.

Keith Wilson
11-29-2004, 07:53 PM
For gluing with epoxy, System 3 T-88 is my favorite; not terribly expensive, 1:1 mix but not fussy, thick enough so you don't need fillers, fairly flexible when cured, fairly wide temperature range. It's useless as a coating, but it's good glue, and System 3 ships anywhere. Hardened drips clean up instantly with a heat gun and scraper.

OTOH, PL construction adhesive from Lowe's or Home Despot would probably work just fine if backed up by screws - sort of a highly adhesive bedding compound. The cheap Chinese stainless square-drive deck screws aren't bad for the money, especially in fresh water.

If it were me, I'd use the epoxy with screws only as temporary clamps, but it's your call.

Keith Wilson
11-29-2004, 07:53 PM
For gluing with epoxy, System 3 T-88 is my favorite; not terribly expensive, 1:1 mix but not fussy, thick enough so you don't need fillers, fairly flexible when cured, fairly wide temperature range. It's useless as a coating, but it's good glue, and System 3 ships anywhere. Hardened drips clean up instantly with a heat gun and scraper.

OTOH, PL construction adhesive from Lowe's or Home Despot would probably work just fine if backed up by screws - sort of a highly adhesive bedding compound. The cheap Chinese stainless square-drive deck screws aren't bad for the money, especially in fresh water.

If it were me, I'd use the epoxy with screws only as temporary clamps, but it's your call.

Keith Wilson
11-29-2004, 07:53 PM
For gluing with epoxy, System 3 T-88 is my favorite; not terribly expensive, 1:1 mix but not fussy, thick enough so you don't need fillers, fairly flexible when cured, fairly wide temperature range. It's useless as a coating, but it's good glue, and System 3 ships anywhere. Hardened drips clean up instantly with a heat gun and scraper.

OTOH, PL construction adhesive from Lowe's or Home Despot would probably work just fine if backed up by screws - sort of a highly adhesive bedding compound. The cheap Chinese stainless square-drive deck screws aren't bad for the money, especially in fresh water.

If it were me, I'd use the epoxy with screws only as temporary clamps, but it's your call.

Phillip Allen
11-29-2004, 08:06 PM
I was thinking of using construction adheasive as I'm in construction. I'm not a carpenter though (bricklayer) and don't know what they use...I'll ask at a construction supply. Important to remember that they are also high as details get lost in multi million dollar projects and a lot of gouging goes on at that level. It's cheaper to pay twice the price for something than having fifteen guys standing around on the clock waiting for someone to go down the road to get a better deal.

Phillip Allen
11-29-2004, 08:06 PM
I was thinking of using construction adheasive as I'm in construction. I'm not a carpenter though (bricklayer) and don't know what they use...I'll ask at a construction supply. Important to remember that they are also high as details get lost in multi million dollar projects and a lot of gouging goes on at that level. It's cheaper to pay twice the price for something than having fifteen guys standing around on the clock waiting for someone to go down the road to get a better deal.

Phillip Allen
11-29-2004, 08:06 PM
I was thinking of using construction adheasive as I'm in construction. I'm not a carpenter though (bricklayer) and don't know what they use...I'll ask at a construction supply. Important to remember that they are also high as details get lost in multi million dollar projects and a lot of gouging goes on at that level. It's cheaper to pay twice the price for something than having fifteen guys standing around on the clock waiting for someone to go down the road to get a better deal.

Venchka
11-29-2004, 08:13 PM
Like I said before...

PL Premium is the product that most folks who use it on boats talk about. Last time I looked, I think it was in the $7-$8/quart tube range. I also remember somebody on the forum saying that Liquid Nails was NOT the same type adhesive. Use the SEARCH feature here and search all the boat related areas for glue. There is a world of information in the archives.

System Three T-88 and temporary screws sounds like the best advice yet. Epoxy plugged screw holes won't EVER corrode.

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

Venchka
11-29-2004, 08:13 PM
Like I said before...

PL Premium is the product that most folks who use it on boats talk about. Last time I looked, I think it was in the $7-$8/quart tube range. I also remember somebody on the forum saying that Liquid Nails was NOT the same type adhesive. Use the SEARCH feature here and search all the boat related areas for glue. There is a world of information in the archives.

System Three T-88 and temporary screws sounds like the best advice yet. Epoxy plugged screw holes won't EVER corrode.

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

Venchka
11-29-2004, 08:13 PM
Like I said before...

PL Premium is the product that most folks who use it on boats talk about. Last time I looked, I think it was in the $7-$8/quart tube range. I also remember somebody on the forum saying that Liquid Nails was NOT the same type adhesive. Use the SEARCH feature here and search all the boat related areas for glue. There is a world of information in the archives.

System Three T-88 and temporary screws sounds like the best advice yet. Epoxy plugged screw holes won't EVER corrode.

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

Phillip Allen
11-29-2004, 10:25 PM
Well, tomorrow I check one more place but at this time it looks like the T-88 will do. The price seems in line with the best epoxy I used to use in gunsmithing which may be a little higher and has a much shorter pot life. If I can figgure out how to post pics I will and any help in that line would be appreciated...(new computer with HP1200 series flat bed scanner/printer)...? smile.gif

[ 11-29-2004, 11:26 PM: Message edited by: Phillip Allen ]

Phillip Allen
11-29-2004, 10:25 PM
Well, tomorrow I check one more place but at this time it looks like the T-88 will do. The price seems in line with the best epoxy I used to use in gunsmithing which may be a little higher and has a much shorter pot life. If I can figgure out how to post pics I will and any help in that line would be appreciated...(new computer with HP1200 series flat bed scanner/printer)...? smile.gif

[ 11-29-2004, 11:26 PM: Message edited by: Phillip Allen ]

Phillip Allen
11-29-2004, 10:25 PM
Well, tomorrow I check one more place but at this time it looks like the T-88 will do. The price seems in line with the best epoxy I used to use in gunsmithing which may be a little higher and has a much shorter pot life. If I can figgure out how to post pics I will and any help in that line would be appreciated...(new computer with HP1200 series flat bed scanner/printer)...? smile.gif

[ 11-29-2004, 11:26 PM: Message edited by: Phillip Allen ]

RodB
11-30-2004, 05:49 PM
I have a question. Once laminated, do you plan to seal and paint, or prime and paint, or what? Will she be trailered?

I agree with those above, temp screws and epoxy for bonding. You end up with no metal in your keel and she's tough as nails.

Epoxy (system III is hard to beat) would bond your keel together as good as it gets, plus you could glass the exterior for a high degree of toughness and durability sealing the edges of the laminate layers.. . If you just get System III T-88 I don't think you get the versatility obtained using regular resin with appropriate thickeners.

Regular resin allows for thickening as a glue or no thickening for glassing or coating. Whether T-88 or regular resin, I can't imagine using anything else but epoxy when you consider the work involved and materials... its the same amount of work to use epoxy as anything else but epoxy gives the best results, period. Resourcinal would work great if you made absolutely perfect joints...some negatives and 2nd to epoxy...also quite expensive. I get my System III shipped UPS and get it very fast. I have gotten over 25 gallons this way with no slip ups. .

Once done with the lamination, you can either glass the keel with fiberglass cloth (double thick at major abrasion points) or just prime and paint if the abrasion factor is nonexistent. One and a half gallons of epoxy would cost you about $75 and would be enough to laminate your keel plus sheath the entire bottom if desired. There are also many other uses for plain old epoxy leftovers.

Finally, your weekender would last quite a while done thusly.

RB

[ 11-30-2004, 07:07 PM: Message edited by: RodB ]

RodB
11-30-2004, 05:49 PM
I have a question. Once laminated, do you plan to seal and paint, or prime and paint, or what? Will she be trailered?

I agree with those above, temp screws and epoxy for bonding. You end up with no metal in your keel and she's tough as nails.

Epoxy (system III is hard to beat) would bond your keel together as good as it gets, plus you could glass the exterior for a high degree of toughness and durability sealing the edges of the laminate layers.. . If you just get System III T-88 I don't think you get the versatility obtained using regular resin with appropriate thickeners.

Regular resin allows for thickening as a glue or no thickening for glassing or coating. Whether T-88 or regular resin, I can't imagine using anything else but epoxy when you consider the work involved and materials... its the same amount of work to use epoxy as anything else but epoxy gives the best results, period. Resourcinal would work great if you made absolutely perfect joints...some negatives and 2nd to epoxy...also quite expensive. I get my System III shipped UPS and get it very fast. I have gotten over 25 gallons this way with no slip ups. .

Once done with the lamination, you can either glass the keel with fiberglass cloth (double thick at major abrasion points) or just prime and paint if the abrasion factor is nonexistent. One and a half gallons of epoxy would cost you about $75 and would be enough to laminate your keel plus sheath the entire bottom if desired. There are also many other uses for plain old epoxy leftovers.

Finally, your weekender would last quite a while done thusly.

RB

[ 11-30-2004, 07:07 PM: Message edited by: RodB ]

RodB
11-30-2004, 05:49 PM
I have a question. Once laminated, do you plan to seal and paint, or prime and paint, or what? Will she be trailered?

I agree with those above, temp screws and epoxy for bonding. You end up with no metal in your keel and she's tough as nails.

Epoxy (system III is hard to beat) would bond your keel together as good as it gets, plus you could glass the exterior for a high degree of toughness and durability sealing the edges of the laminate layers.. . If you just get System III T-88 I don't think you get the versatility obtained using regular resin with appropriate thickeners.

Regular resin allows for thickening as a glue or no thickening for glassing or coating. Whether T-88 or regular resin, I can't imagine using anything else but epoxy when you consider the work involved and materials... its the same amount of work to use epoxy as anything else but epoxy gives the best results, period. Resourcinal would work great if you made absolutely perfect joints...some negatives and 2nd to epoxy...also quite expensive. I get my System III shipped UPS and get it very fast. I have gotten over 25 gallons this way with no slip ups. .

Once done with the lamination, you can either glass the keel with fiberglass cloth (double thick at major abrasion points) or just prime and paint if the abrasion factor is nonexistent. One and a half gallons of epoxy would cost you about $75 and would be enough to laminate your keel plus sheath the entire bottom if desired. There are also many other uses for plain old epoxy leftovers.

Finally, your weekender would last quite a while done thusly.

RB

[ 11-30-2004, 07:07 PM: Message edited by: RodB ]

Phillip Allen
11-30-2004, 07:53 PM
I haven't shopped for the T-88 price...where should I look?

Phillip Allen
11-30-2004, 07:53 PM
I haven't shopped for the T-88 price...where should I look?

Phillip Allen
11-30-2004, 07:53 PM
I haven't shopped for the T-88 price...where should I look?

Venchka
11-30-2004, 08:25 PM
www.google.com (http://www.google.com)

System Three (makers of T-88) has a great web site with technical assistance, a book on how to use their products, dealer lists.

Beware, the internet isn't always cheaper. Help, Seattle folks. What is the name of the marine supply place that sells all the good commercial fishing gear? They used to have a good price on C.P.E.S. Maybe they sell T-88 at a fair price.

Wayne
In the Swmap. :D

Venchka
11-30-2004, 08:25 PM
www.google.com (http://www.google.com)

System Three (makers of T-88) has a great web site with technical assistance, a book on how to use their products, dealer lists.

Beware, the internet isn't always cheaper. Help, Seattle folks. What is the name of the marine supply place that sells all the good commercial fishing gear? They used to have a good price on C.P.E.S. Maybe they sell T-88 at a fair price.

Wayne
In the Swmap. :D

Venchka
11-30-2004, 08:25 PM
www.google.com (http://www.google.com)

System Three (makers of T-88) has a great web site with technical assistance, a book on how to use their products, dealer lists.

Beware, the internet isn't always cheaper. Help, Seattle folks. What is the name of the marine supply place that sells all the good commercial fishing gear? They used to have a good price on C.P.E.S. Maybe they sell T-88 at a fair price.

Wayne
In the Swmap. :D

Nicholas Carey
11-30-2004, 08:58 PM
Originally posted by Venchka:
System Three (makers of T-88) has a great web site with technical assistance, a book on how to use their products, dealer lists.

Beware, the internet isn't always cheaper. Help, Seattle folks. What is the name of the marine supply place that sells all the good commercial fishing gear? They used to have a good price on C.P.E.S. Maybe they sell T-88 at a fair price.The good place for retail purchase of System Three products is Fiber-Lay (http://www.fiberlay.com/) here in Seattle. They're the PNW distributor for System Three.

Whether or not its worth ordering from them to get it to Arkansas is another question.

Nicholas Carey
11-30-2004, 08:58 PM
Originally posted by Venchka:
System Three (makers of T-88) has a great web site with technical assistance, a book on how to use their products, dealer lists.

Beware, the internet isn't always cheaper. Help, Seattle folks. What is the name of the marine supply place that sells all the good commercial fishing gear? They used to have a good price on C.P.E.S. Maybe they sell T-88 at a fair price.The good place for retail purchase of System Three products is Fiber-Lay (http://www.fiberlay.com/) here in Seattle. They're the PNW distributor for System Three.

Whether or not its worth ordering from them to get it to Arkansas is another question.

Nicholas Carey
11-30-2004, 08:58 PM
Originally posted by Venchka:
System Three (makers of T-88) has a great web site with technical assistance, a book on how to use their products, dealer lists.

Beware, the internet isn't always cheaper. Help, Seattle folks. What is the name of the marine supply place that sells all the good commercial fishing gear? They used to have a good price on C.P.E.S. Maybe they sell T-88 at a fair price.The good place for retail purchase of System Three products is Fiber-Lay (http://www.fiberlay.com/) here in Seattle. They're the PNW distributor for System Three.

Whether or not its worth ordering from them to get it to Arkansas is another question.

Venchka
11-30-2004, 09:23 PM
During construction of my boat, I was charged $15 for shipping...

3 gallons of C.P.E.S. from New Orleans to Calais, ME

3 gallons of paint from Kirby Paint Co., MA to Calais, ME

Shipping a gallon of T-88 won't break the budget.

System Three can tell you if there is a dealer closer to you.

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

Venchka
11-30-2004, 09:23 PM
During construction of my boat, I was charged $15 for shipping...

3 gallons of C.P.E.S. from New Orleans to Calais, ME

3 gallons of paint from Kirby Paint Co., MA to Calais, ME

Shipping a gallon of T-88 won't break the budget.

System Three can tell you if there is a dealer closer to you.

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

Venchka
11-30-2004, 09:23 PM
During construction of my boat, I was charged $15 for shipping...

3 gallons of C.P.E.S. from New Orleans to Calais, ME

3 gallons of paint from Kirby Paint Co., MA to Calais, ME

Shipping a gallon of T-88 won't break the budget.

System Three can tell you if there is a dealer closer to you.

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D