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cs
03-21-2006, 04:59 PM
http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00917288000?layer=comp&wid=190&hei=190&fmt=jpeg

I guess Sears now offers a powder coating system for $189. Anyone heard of this or have they used it?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=SEARS&sid=I0093600100004900085&pid=00917288000

Chad

[ 03-21-2006, 05:02 PM: Message edited by: cs ]

cs
03-21-2006, 04:59 PM
http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00917288000?layer=comp&wid=190&hei=190&fmt=jpeg

I guess Sears now offers a powder coating system for $189. Anyone heard of this or have they used it?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=SEARS&sid=I0093600100004900085&pid=00917288000

Chad

[ 03-21-2006, 05:02 PM: Message edited by: cs ]

cs
03-21-2006, 04:59 PM
http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00917288000?layer=comp&wid=190&hei=190&fmt=jpeg

I guess Sears now offers a powder coating system for $189. Anyone heard of this or have they used it?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=SEARS&sid=I0093600100004900085&pid=00917288000

Chad

[ 03-21-2006, 05:02 PM: Message edited by: cs ]

Gresham CA
03-21-2006, 08:25 PM
Sounds like a blowdryer Chad. It might work if the parts you want to coat are small. How much does it cost to take you're part somewhere?

Gresham CA
03-21-2006, 08:25 PM
Sounds like a blowdryer Chad. It might work if the parts you want to coat are small. How much does it cost to take you're part somewhere?

Gresham CA
03-21-2006, 08:25 PM
Sounds like a blowdryer Chad. It might work if the parts you want to coat are small. How much does it cost to take you're part somewhere?

Hwyl
03-21-2006, 08:50 PM
Required safety equipment [Items NOT included]: rubber gloves, goggles and dust mask, non-food preparation oven, electric or gas.

Hwyl
03-21-2006, 08:50 PM
Required safety equipment [Items NOT included]: rubber gloves, goggles and dust mask, non-food preparation oven, electric or gas.

Hwyl
03-21-2006, 08:50 PM
Required safety equipment [Items NOT included]: rubber gloves, goggles and dust mask, non-food preparation oven, electric or gas.

Concordia..41
03-21-2006, 09:10 PM
I especially like this part:


Removing corrosion and old coatings can be easily accomplished with abrasive paper, wire brush, liquid paint stripper, or abrasive blasting. [emphasis added] :D

Seriously, for that price if you've got a selection of things to powder coat, I think it'd be worth the experiment. I've seen things professionally done & they were pretty amazing (as was the price :eek: )

Concordia..41
03-21-2006, 09:10 PM
I especially like this part:


Removing corrosion and old coatings can be easily accomplished with abrasive paper, wire brush, liquid paint stripper, or abrasive blasting. [emphasis added] :D

Seriously, for that price if you've got a selection of things to powder coat, I think it'd be worth the experiment. I've seen things professionally done & they were pretty amazing (as was the price :eek: )

Concordia..41
03-21-2006, 09:10 PM
I especially like this part:


Removing corrosion and old coatings can be easily accomplished with abrasive paper, wire brush, liquid paint stripper, or abrasive blasting. [emphasis added] :D

Seriously, for that price if you've got a selection of things to powder coat, I think it'd be worth the experiment. I've seen things professionally done & they were pretty amazing (as was the price :eek: )

Ken Hutchins
03-21-2006, 09:37 PM
I personally don't think powder coating is worth a crap. Sure it looks good right after done, but I've seen a lot of stuff with big chunks of the paint falling off and severe rusting under the flakes of paint because of trapped moisture. Soooo like many other processes everything must be done absolutely properly, the slightest deviation and you have major junk.

Ken Hutchins
03-21-2006, 09:37 PM
I personally don't think powder coating is worth a crap. Sure it looks good right after done, but I've seen a lot of stuff with big chunks of the paint falling off and severe rusting under the flakes of paint because of trapped moisture. Soooo like many other processes everything must be done absolutely properly, the slightest deviation and you have major junk.

Ken Hutchins
03-21-2006, 09:37 PM
I personally don't think powder coating is worth a crap. Sure it looks good right after done, but I've seen a lot of stuff with big chunks of the paint falling off and severe rusting under the flakes of paint because of trapped moisture. Soooo like many other processes everything must be done absolutely properly, the slightest deviation and you have major junk.

paladin
03-21-2006, 09:44 PM
I have had a LOT of metal powder coated for use as electronics housings and bomb jammer stuff that gets ruff treatment in Afghanistan, Iraq and other places in the middle east and if done properly (commercially) it's damn good...

paladin
03-21-2006, 09:44 PM
I have had a LOT of metal powder coated for use as electronics housings and bomb jammer stuff that gets ruff treatment in Afghanistan, Iraq and other places in the middle east and if done properly (commercially) it's damn good...

paladin
03-21-2006, 09:44 PM
I have had a LOT of metal powder coated for use as electronics housings and bomb jammer stuff that gets ruff treatment in Afghanistan, Iraq and other places in the middle east and if done properly (commercially) it's damn good...

phantom24
03-21-2006, 10:16 PM
hi chad
our company is a metal fab. shop here in ontario.
we have been powder coating our products for about
10 years .we got into coating when we used to
make ornamental garden products.the comments up
to now are basically true.we have produced crappy
finishes and superb ones as well.
the problem with a small inexpensive system like
this one,is that they don`t tell you the whole
story.what they state in the description is basically true.however, it`s like saying that in
order to drive a car(for example) all you have to do is sit in the driver seat, turn on the car,put it in gear,push down the gas pedal and your driving .there is a lot more to it is my point.
if you are serious about doing some powder coating, i would be happy to help. just send me an email
dennis

phantom24
03-21-2006, 10:16 PM
hi chad
our company is a metal fab. shop here in ontario.
we have been powder coating our products for about
10 years .we got into coating when we used to
make ornamental garden products.the comments up
to now are basically true.we have produced crappy
finishes and superb ones as well.
the problem with a small inexpensive system like
this one,is that they don`t tell you the whole
story.what they state in the description is basically true.however, it`s like saying that in
order to drive a car(for example) all you have to do is sit in the driver seat, turn on the car,put it in gear,push down the gas pedal and your driving .there is a lot more to it is my point.
if you are serious about doing some powder coating, i would be happy to help. just send me an email
dennis

phantom24
03-21-2006, 10:16 PM
hi chad
our company is a metal fab. shop here in ontario.
we have been powder coating our products for about
10 years .we got into coating when we used to
make ornamental garden products.the comments up
to now are basically true.we have produced crappy
finishes and superb ones as well.
the problem with a small inexpensive system like
this one,is that they don`t tell you the whole
story.what they state in the description is basically true.however, it`s like saying that in
order to drive a car(for example) all you have to do is sit in the driver seat, turn on the car,put it in gear,push down the gas pedal and your driving .there is a lot more to it is my point.
if you are serious about doing some powder coating, i would be happy to help. just send me an email
dennis

JimConlin
03-21-2006, 10:28 PM
I'm continually amazed at the lame 'innovations' in tools from Sears. Can anyone name one which caught on and became/evolved to a mainstay tool?

JimConlin
03-21-2006, 10:28 PM
I'm continually amazed at the lame 'innovations' in tools from Sears. Can anyone name one which caught on and became/evolved to a mainstay tool?

JimConlin
03-21-2006, 10:28 PM
I'm continually amazed at the lame 'innovations' in tools from Sears. Can anyone name one which caught on and became/evolved to a mainstay tool?

Gold Rock
03-21-2006, 10:32 PM
I agree with paladin. I've had lots of stuff powder coated as well, and it's all been of the highest quality; remarkably durable. In fact, on one motorcycle frame I had done, I forgot to point out one spot that I needed to be masked off to allow for a bare metal ground, and had a hell of a time scraping/abrading that spot clean. The fellow I had do my stuff over the years gave me a tour and description of his operation, and it's a thorough discipline. Much more than the Sears kit seems to offer. 'Sides, it's proven to be so cheap to have commercially done, well.. I have enough hobbies.

Gold Rock
03-21-2006, 10:32 PM
I agree with paladin. I've had lots of stuff powder coated as well, and it's all been of the highest quality; remarkably durable. In fact, on one motorcycle frame I had done, I forgot to point out one spot that I needed to be masked off to allow for a bare metal ground, and had a hell of a time scraping/abrading that spot clean. The fellow I had do my stuff over the years gave me a tour and description of his operation, and it's a thorough discipline. Much more than the Sears kit seems to offer. 'Sides, it's proven to be so cheap to have commercially done, well.. I have enough hobbies.

Gold Rock
03-21-2006, 10:32 PM
I agree with paladin. I've had lots of stuff powder coated as well, and it's all been of the highest quality; remarkably durable. In fact, on one motorcycle frame I had done, I forgot to point out one spot that I needed to be masked off to allow for a bare metal ground, and had a hell of a time scraping/abrading that spot clean. The fellow I had do my stuff over the years gave me a tour and description of his operation, and it's a thorough discipline. Much more than the Sears kit seems to offer. 'Sides, it's proven to be so cheap to have commercially done, well.. I have enough hobbies.

Peter Malcolm Jardine
03-21-2006, 10:38 PM
The Eastwood company produced a pretty good little powder coating system, and probably still do... with all the colors available. They recommend using a household stove for baking, and getting an old junk stove for that purpose is advisable. I've done some pieces and they turn out quite well...

HAVING SAID THAT... I don't think powder coating would stand up to marine use. It's mostly to make car parts look pretty, and have the finish withstand heat... like headers. Powder coating mild steel commercially would be as expensive as buying stainless in the first place I would think.

[ 03-21-2006, 10:39 PM: Message edited by: Peter Malcolm Jardine ]

Peter Malcolm Jardine
03-21-2006, 10:38 PM
The Eastwood company produced a pretty good little powder coating system, and probably still do... with all the colors available. They recommend using a household stove for baking, and getting an old junk stove for that purpose is advisable. I've done some pieces and they turn out quite well...

HAVING SAID THAT... I don't think powder coating would stand up to marine use. It's mostly to make car parts look pretty, and have the finish withstand heat... like headers. Powder coating mild steel commercially would be as expensive as buying stainless in the first place I would think.

[ 03-21-2006, 10:39 PM: Message edited by: Peter Malcolm Jardine ]

Peter Malcolm Jardine
03-21-2006, 10:38 PM
The Eastwood company produced a pretty good little powder coating system, and probably still do... with all the colors available. They recommend using a household stove for baking, and getting an old junk stove for that purpose is advisable. I've done some pieces and they turn out quite well...

HAVING SAID THAT... I don't think powder coating would stand up to marine use. It's mostly to make car parts look pretty, and have the finish withstand heat... like headers. Powder coating mild steel commercially would be as expensive as buying stainless in the first place I would think.

[ 03-21-2006, 10:39 PM: Message edited by: Peter Malcolm Jardine ]

phantom24
03-21-2006, 10:57 PM
we do a lot of work for the local marina and we do powder coat some of the parts.more often than not,the parts and pieces are usually stainless or
aluminum and are coated for colour match.there are much better finishes avalable(eg. your car or truck factory paint job ).the 2 main advantages of powder coating are;the ability to paint very complex shapes with ease and consistency,andthe fact that once the part comes out of the oven
and cools off they are totally dry and cured.

phantom24
03-21-2006, 10:57 PM
we do a lot of work for the local marina and we do powder coat some of the parts.more often than not,the parts and pieces are usually stainless or
aluminum and are coated for colour match.there are much better finishes avalable(eg. your car or truck factory paint job ).the 2 main advantages of powder coating are;the ability to paint very complex shapes with ease and consistency,andthe fact that once the part comes out of the oven
and cools off they are totally dry and cured.

phantom24
03-21-2006, 10:57 PM
we do a lot of work for the local marina and we do powder coat some of the parts.more often than not,the parts and pieces are usually stainless or
aluminum and are coated for colour match.there are much better finishes avalable(eg. your car or truck factory paint job ).the 2 main advantages of powder coating are;the ability to paint very complex shapes with ease and consistency,andthe fact that once the part comes out of the oven
and cools off they are totally dry and cured.

Brian Palmer
03-22-2006, 09:17 AM
I am thinking of having the frame of my commuter bicycle powder coated. Seems like a better option than painting it again with spray cans like I did 20 years ago.

Any idea on what it would cost?

-- Brian

Brian Palmer
03-22-2006, 09:17 AM
I am thinking of having the frame of my commuter bicycle powder coated. Seems like a better option than painting it again with spray cans like I did 20 years ago.

Any idea on what it would cost?

-- Brian

Brian Palmer
03-22-2006, 09:17 AM
I am thinking of having the frame of my commuter bicycle powder coated. Seems like a better option than painting it again with spray cans like I did 20 years ago.

Any idea on what it would cost?

-- Brian

Don Z.
03-22-2006, 09:30 AM
You want to know about using that gun for powder coating? These guys (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=260214&highlight=sears+powder+coat) know about using that gun for powder coating.

Disagree that it's only used to make cars "look pretty". The fact is that it's much more durable than paint, so while some things look pretty with it on, it also protects them well. The convertible top frame for the car I'm restoring is powdercoated... no rust. The front suspension cross member (one of the few still around with little rust) is now very protected... I'd never use powder coating on headers, it will burn off. Those are ceramic coated...

Don Z.
03-22-2006, 09:30 AM
You want to know about using that gun for powder coating? These guys (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=260214&highlight=sears+powder+coat) know about using that gun for powder coating.

Disagree that it's only used to make cars "look pretty". The fact is that it's much more durable than paint, so while some things look pretty with it on, it also protects them well. The convertible top frame for the car I'm restoring is powdercoated... no rust. The front suspension cross member (one of the few still around with little rust) is now very protected... I'd never use powder coating on headers, it will burn off. Those are ceramic coated...

Don Z.
03-22-2006, 09:30 AM
You want to know about using that gun for powder coating? These guys (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=260214&highlight=sears+powder+coat) know about using that gun for powder coating.

Disagree that it's only used to make cars "look pretty". The fact is that it's much more durable than paint, so while some things look pretty with it on, it also protects them well. The convertible top frame for the car I'm restoring is powdercoated... no rust. The front suspension cross member (one of the few still around with little rust) is now very protected... I'd never use powder coating on headers, it will burn off. Those are ceramic coated...

cs
03-22-2006, 09:36 AM
I'll admit that I first thought of this powder coating for some small fitting on my weekender, but after seeing the price of the system I've thought different. I can probably get what I need powder coated for a fraction of the cost.

But it would be nice to have a system to do this with. When I built my BMX bike I was real paticular and went to great pains to insure that I had a good paint job on it. Of course I was spraying out of a can and I knew it wouldn't be perfect or last forever. I put many layers of paint on a primered surface with several layers of clearcoat, and yet I still have some chips in the paint a few years later.

Of course this system will not work on something as big as a bike, but it is a thought.

Chad

cs
03-22-2006, 09:36 AM
I'll admit that I first thought of this powder coating for some small fitting on my weekender, but after seeing the price of the system I've thought different. I can probably get what I need powder coated for a fraction of the cost.

But it would be nice to have a system to do this with. When I built my BMX bike I was real paticular and went to great pains to insure that I had a good paint job on it. Of course I was spraying out of a can and I knew it wouldn't be perfect or last forever. I put many layers of paint on a primered surface with several layers of clearcoat, and yet I still have some chips in the paint a few years later.

Of course this system will not work on something as big as a bike, but it is a thought.

Chad

cs
03-22-2006, 09:36 AM
I'll admit that I first thought of this powder coating for some small fitting on my weekender, but after seeing the price of the system I've thought different. I can probably get what I need powder coated for a fraction of the cost.

But it would be nice to have a system to do this with. When I built my BMX bike I was real paticular and went to great pains to insure that I had a good paint job on it. Of course I was spraying out of a can and I knew it wouldn't be perfect or last forever. I put many layers of paint on a primered surface with several layers of clearcoat, and yet I still have some chips in the paint a few years later.

Of course this system will not work on something as big as a bike, but it is a thought.

Chad

Don Z.
03-22-2006, 12:35 PM
Originally posted by cs:


Of course this system will not work on something as big as a bike, but it is a thought.

ChadChad,
Do a search on that web page I sent to you... Somewhere in there is a guy who built a small room sized oven with insulated foam, and heated it with a propane heater. He was able to get 450 degrees in there, you could have powdercoated five of your bikes!

Don Z.
03-22-2006, 12:35 PM
Originally posted by cs:


Of course this system will not work on something as big as a bike, but it is a thought.

ChadChad,
Do a search on that web page I sent to you... Somewhere in there is a guy who built a small room sized oven with insulated foam, and heated it with a propane heater. He was able to get 450 degrees in there, you could have powdercoated five of your bikes!

Don Z.
03-22-2006, 12:35 PM
Originally posted by cs:


Of course this system will not work on something as big as a bike, but it is a thought.

ChadChad,
Do a search on that web page I sent to you... Somewhere in there is a guy who built a small room sized oven with insulated foam, and heated it with a propane heater. He was able to get 450 degrees in there, you could have powdercoated five of your bikes!

Peter Malcolm Jardine
03-22-2006, 06:34 PM
I'd never use powder coating on headers, it will burn off. Those are ceramic coated... I should have clarified. Both ceramic hight temperature coatings and powder coat start out in powder form, but use different temperatures to melt them. Yep, powder coating is durable in most car parts... We did trans housings, intakes, etc etc... Looks great, easy to clean. I still don't think they're designed for marine use. Just my .02

Peter Malcolm Jardine
03-22-2006, 06:34 PM
I'd never use powder coating on headers, it will burn off. Those are ceramic coated... I should have clarified. Both ceramic hight temperature coatings and powder coat start out in powder form, but use different temperatures to melt them. Yep, powder coating is durable in most car parts... We did trans housings, intakes, etc etc... Looks great, easy to clean. I still don't think they're designed for marine use. Just my .02

Peter Malcolm Jardine
03-22-2006, 06:34 PM
I'd never use powder coating on headers, it will burn off. Those are ceramic coated... I should have clarified. Both ceramic hight temperature coatings and powder coat start out in powder form, but use different temperatures to melt them. Yep, powder coating is durable in most car parts... We did trans housings, intakes, etc etc... Looks great, easy to clean. I still don't think they're designed for marine use. Just my .02

Matt Middleton
03-22-2006, 07:21 PM
I am thinking of having the frame of my commuter bicycle powder coated. Seems like a better option than painting it again with spray cans like I did 20 years ago.

Any idea on what it would cost?

-- Brian Hi Brian - i recently checked into getting a bike frame poweder coated, and our local guy guessed $125 for a basic 2-tone job. From other folks that I've communicated with online, this is a standard price.

Regards,
Matt

Matt Middleton
03-22-2006, 07:21 PM
I am thinking of having the frame of my commuter bicycle powder coated. Seems like a better option than painting it again with spray cans like I did 20 years ago.

Any idea on what it would cost?

-- Brian Hi Brian - i recently checked into getting a bike frame poweder coated, and our local guy guessed $125 for a basic 2-tone job. From other folks that I've communicated with online, this is a standard price.

Regards,
Matt

Matt Middleton
03-22-2006, 07:21 PM
I am thinking of having the frame of my commuter bicycle powder coated. Seems like a better option than painting it again with spray cans like I did 20 years ago.

Any idea on what it would cost?

-- Brian Hi Brian - i recently checked into getting a bike frame poweder coated, and our local guy guessed $125 for a basic 2-tone job. From other folks that I've communicated with online, this is a standard price.

Regards,
Matt

joejapan
03-22-2006, 07:30 PM
.
I have no idea the costs for powder coating in the States nowadays, but I can tell you it's a lotta' work to take everything off of the frame, take it to a shop and have it powder coated but it'll definately be worth it. It'll look like a brand, spankin' new bicycle !

What is it about a new paint job that makes a bike feel like it rides easier, quieter and faster ?

Ric_Bergstrom
03-22-2006, 09:26 PM
there was a powder coat oven at harbor freight this morning. didn't get a price. nice sized.

they also sell powder coat guns.

Ric_Bergstrom
03-22-2006, 09:26 PM
there was a powder coat oven at harbor freight this morning. didn't get a price. nice sized.

they also sell powder coat guns.

Ric_Bergstrom
03-22-2006, 09:26 PM
there was a powder coat oven at harbor freight this morning. didn't get a price. nice sized.

they also sell powder coat guns.

Paul G.
03-22-2006, 11:18 PM
The tool is a toy. A professional pays thousands for a gun. Not to mention the acid baths and ovens........

Its better to find a good professional and pay for the work to be done once and well.

Do you really want to learn to powdercoat as well?

Paul G.
03-22-2006, 11:18 PM
The tool is a toy. A professional pays thousands for a gun. Not to mention the acid baths and ovens........

Its better to find a good professional and pay for the work to be done once and well.

Do you really want to learn to powdercoat as well?

Paul G.
03-22-2006, 11:18 PM
The tool is a toy. A professional pays thousands for a gun. Not to mention the acid baths and ovens........

Its better to find a good professional and pay for the work to be done once and well.

Do you really want to learn to powdercoat as well?

rufustr
03-22-2006, 11:24 PM
Get a professional to do it.
Well worth the expense.
Have had a couple of triumph chassis and other similar components powder coated.
15+ years on and no significant sign of deterioration.
Very cost effective in the long run.
Do it once and do it right.

rufustr
03-22-2006, 11:24 PM
Get a professional to do it.
Well worth the expense.
Have had a couple of triumph chassis and other similar components powder coated.
15+ years on and no significant sign of deterioration.
Very cost effective in the long run.
Do it once and do it right.

rufustr
03-22-2006, 11:24 PM
Get a professional to do it.
Well worth the expense.
Have had a couple of triumph chassis and other similar components powder coated.
15+ years on and no significant sign of deterioration.
Very cost effective in the long run.
Do it once and do it right.

pipefitter
03-23-2006, 01:29 AM
There is a difference in marine coatings. One thing you have to do is isolate disimilar fastenings,holes for screws have to be drilled oversize to insure that the screws dont remove the coating when spun in and 5200 is allowed to skin over in the countersunk holes before the screws are tightened all the way.The pieces we have done are also thoroughly sand blasted before coating.
No failures of this frame as of yet with extensive saltwater/offshore use. Not one blister yet. This was powder coated white and then powder coated with a high gloss clear.
http://home.earthlink.net/~tigmaster41/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/18_19a.jpg

[ 03-23-2006, 01:35 AM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

pipefitter
03-23-2006, 01:29 AM
There is a difference in marine coatings. One thing you have to do is isolate disimilar fastenings,holes for screws have to be drilled oversize to insure that the screws dont remove the coating when spun in and 5200 is allowed to skin over in the countersunk holes before the screws are tightened all the way.The pieces we have done are also thoroughly sand blasted before coating.
No failures of this frame as of yet with extensive saltwater/offshore use. Not one blister yet. This was powder coated white and then powder coated with a high gloss clear.
http://home.earthlink.net/~tigmaster41/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/18_19a.jpg

[ 03-23-2006, 01:35 AM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

pipefitter
03-23-2006, 01:29 AM
There is a difference in marine coatings. One thing you have to do is isolate disimilar fastenings,holes for screws have to be drilled oversize to insure that the screws dont remove the coating when spun in and 5200 is allowed to skin over in the countersunk holes before the screws are tightened all the way.The pieces we have done are also thoroughly sand blasted before coating.
No failures of this frame as of yet with extensive saltwater/offshore use. Not one blister yet. This was powder coated white and then powder coated with a high gloss clear.
http://home.earthlink.net/~tigmaster41/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/18_19a.jpg

[ 03-23-2006, 01:35 AM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

Stiletto
03-23-2006, 02:10 AM
How did they get the clear to stick to the white?

I thought powder coating was achieved by electrostatic attraction of the paint to the metal beneath.

Stiletto
03-23-2006, 02:10 AM
How did they get the clear to stick to the white?

I thought powder coating was achieved by electrostatic attraction of the paint to the metal beneath.

Stiletto
03-23-2006, 02:10 AM
How did they get the clear to stick to the white?

I thought powder coating was achieved by electrostatic attraction of the paint to the metal beneath.

Brian Palmer
03-23-2006, 08:31 AM
Matt,

Thanks for the estimate on the bike. I'd probably do just a single color. Taking the bike down the frame isn't so bad.

JoeJapan,

I've had this bike for 20 years (it was used when I bought it) and the only part that is original IS the frame.

-- Brian

Brian Palmer
03-23-2006, 08:31 AM
Matt,

Thanks for the estimate on the bike. I'd probably do just a single color. Taking the bike down the frame isn't so bad.

JoeJapan,

I've had this bike for 20 years (it was used when I bought it) and the only part that is original IS the frame.

-- Brian

Brian Palmer
03-23-2006, 08:31 AM
Matt,

Thanks for the estimate on the bike. I'd probably do just a single color. Taking the bike down the frame isn't so bad.

JoeJapan,

I've had this bike for 20 years (it was used when I bought it) and the only part that is original IS the frame.

-- Brian

Peter Malcolm Jardine
03-23-2006, 07:09 PM
No failures of this frame as of yet with extensive saltwater/offshore use. It's not over STEEL... aluminum probably.

I'm sure it works fine over a non rusting metal. Nice cosmetic.

Peter Malcolm Jardine
03-23-2006, 07:09 PM
No failures of this frame as of yet with extensive saltwater/offshore use. It's not over STEEL... aluminum probably.

I'm sure it works fine over a non rusting metal. Nice cosmetic.

Peter Malcolm Jardine
03-23-2006, 07:09 PM
No failures of this frame as of yet with extensive saltwater/offshore use. It's not over STEEL... aluminum probably.

I'm sure it works fine over a non rusting metal. Nice cosmetic.

Gold Rock
03-23-2006, 09:33 PM
For you guys asking about cost, here's my first encounter w/ powder coating. I had the frame, swingarm, triple clamps, engine mounting brackets, sidestand, and many misc. brackets and the like, for my '73 Triumph Bonneville done several years ago. For the record, and for you folks in the area, I used Ken's Powder Coating in Graham WA. (20104 78th Ave. E. 98387 253-847-9431). Anyway, he said all I should do is drain the oil from the frame (internal resevoir on that one) and gather the rest of the parts I wanted and bring them in. Don't strip them, don't mask them. For $250 bucks, he cleaned, sand blasted, masked and coated them. That, ladies and gentlemen, is a deal. The results, to this day, are show stopping. I've put ten thousand plus miles on the bike over the last six years, and there isn't a rock chip anywhere on the bike. Tough, tough finish. Now admittedly, that was, as I said, some years ago, but for what you get, it's a bargain. Think of what the same project would have cost for say, chrome plating. Four figures with a capital 'F'. One of the nice things about P.C. is that, unlike so many metal finishes these days, it's actually kind of favored by the Fed. regulators. It's probably, in their view, the most eco-friendly of commercial metal finishes, so the cost of operating a facility is likely much less. My only concern is that since the ovens at commercial temps run at 450-600 deg. F, could that affect the temper of certain aluminum alloys (6061- T6, etc..)? Don't know.

Gold Rock
03-23-2006, 09:33 PM
For you guys asking about cost, here's my first encounter w/ powder coating. I had the frame, swingarm, triple clamps, engine mounting brackets, sidestand, and many misc. brackets and the like, for my '73 Triumph Bonneville done several years ago. For the record, and for you folks in the area, I used Ken's Powder Coating in Graham WA. (20104 78th Ave. E. 98387 253-847-9431). Anyway, he said all I should do is drain the oil from the frame (internal resevoir on that one) and gather the rest of the parts I wanted and bring them in. Don't strip them, don't mask them. For $250 bucks, he cleaned, sand blasted, masked and coated them. That, ladies and gentlemen, is a deal. The results, to this day, are show stopping. I've put ten thousand plus miles on the bike over the last six years, and there isn't a rock chip anywhere on the bike. Tough, tough finish. Now admittedly, that was, as I said, some years ago, but for what you get, it's a bargain. Think of what the same project would have cost for say, chrome plating. Four figures with a capital 'F'. One of the nice things about P.C. is that, unlike so many metal finishes these days, it's actually kind of favored by the Fed. regulators. It's probably, in their view, the most eco-friendly of commercial metal finishes, so the cost of operating a facility is likely much less. My only concern is that since the ovens at commercial temps run at 450-600 deg. F, could that affect the temper of certain aluminum alloys (6061- T6, etc..)? Don't know.

Gold Rock
03-23-2006, 09:33 PM
For you guys asking about cost, here's my first encounter w/ powder coating. I had the frame, swingarm, triple clamps, engine mounting brackets, sidestand, and many misc. brackets and the like, for my '73 Triumph Bonneville done several years ago. For the record, and for you folks in the area, I used Ken's Powder Coating in Graham WA. (20104 78th Ave. E. 98387 253-847-9431). Anyway, he said all I should do is drain the oil from the frame (internal resevoir on that one) and gather the rest of the parts I wanted and bring them in. Don't strip them, don't mask them. For $250 bucks, he cleaned, sand blasted, masked and coated them. That, ladies and gentlemen, is a deal. The results, to this day, are show stopping. I've put ten thousand plus miles on the bike over the last six years, and there isn't a rock chip anywhere on the bike. Tough, tough finish. Now admittedly, that was, as I said, some years ago, but for what you get, it's a bargain. Think of what the same project would have cost for say, chrome plating. Four figures with a capital 'F'. One of the nice things about P.C. is that, unlike so many metal finishes these days, it's actually kind of favored by the Fed. regulators. It's probably, in their view, the most eco-friendly of commercial metal finishes, so the cost of operating a facility is likely much less. My only concern is that since the ovens at commercial temps run at 450-600 deg. F, could that affect the temper of certain aluminum alloys (6061- T6, etc..)? Don't know.

pipefitter
03-24-2006, 12:58 AM
You are correct PMJ. It is indeed aluminum. I have seen alot of failures with aluminum such as trolling motors and some welded structures such as what I work on. I am not sure how they clear coat it but it is recommended with what they consider a marine powder coat.Since we have gone with their recommendation as to the screw treatment and the clear coat step,we have had no problems whatsoever.And for what it's worth,you cannot burn the coating off with a propane torch and even after trying to burn it off,it is a mother to sand off. You will find it hard to get past the base coat.

[ 03-24-2006, 12:59 AM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

pipefitter
03-24-2006, 12:58 AM
You are correct PMJ. It is indeed aluminum. I have seen alot of failures with aluminum such as trolling motors and some welded structures such as what I work on. I am not sure how they clear coat it but it is recommended with what they consider a marine powder coat.Since we have gone with their recommendation as to the screw treatment and the clear coat step,we have had no problems whatsoever.And for what it's worth,you cannot burn the coating off with a propane torch and even after trying to burn it off,it is a mother to sand off. You will find it hard to get past the base coat.

[ 03-24-2006, 12:59 AM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

pipefitter
03-24-2006, 12:58 AM
You are correct PMJ. It is indeed aluminum. I have seen alot of failures with aluminum such as trolling motors and some welded structures such as what I work on. I am not sure how they clear coat it but it is recommended with what they consider a marine powder coat.Since we have gone with their recommendation as to the screw treatment and the clear coat step,we have had no problems whatsoever.And for what it's worth,you cannot burn the coating off with a propane torch and even after trying to burn it off,it is a mother to sand off. You will find it hard to get past the base coat.

[ 03-24-2006, 12:59 AM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]