Power screwdriver -

[Capt.Pepe]

I've got to drive a few hundred bronze screws into oak.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a good power screwdriver - a strong one, not battery powered?
Thanks -

[Capt.Pepe]

I've got to drive a few hundred bronze screws into oak.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a good power screwdriver - a strong one, not battery powered?
Thanks -

[Capt.Pepe]

I've got to drive a few hundred bronze screws into oak.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a good power screwdriver - a strong one, not battery powered?
Thanks -

[Dave Fleming]

I have in recent times favoured the Milwaukee line of tools. When doing boring and fastening(screwing) I have one with the combo Fuller countersink-counterbore and another with the screw bit. I use 3/8ths chuck Variable Speed with reverse drill motors but if you are cautious about screw torque you could subsititute a Scru-gun with adjustable torque setting for one of the drill motors. I favour JACOBS chucks over 'keyless' chuchs myself.
Once Black and Decker was at the top of the portable electic tool pile but sadly not anymore.
Last time I handled any decent industrial grade B&D tools was back in the 1980's.

[ 08-18-2002, 12:06 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

[Dave Fleming]

I have in recent times favoured the Milwaukee line of tools. When doing boring and fastening(screwing) I have one with the combo Fuller countersink-counterbore and another with the screw bit. I use 3/8ths chuck Variable Speed with reverse drill motors but if you are cautious about screw torque you could subsititute a Scru-gun with adjustable torque setting for one of the drill motors. I favour JACOBS chucks over 'keyless' chuchs myself.
Once Black and Decker was at the top of the portable electic tool pile but sadly not anymore.
Last time I handled any decent industrial grade B&D tools was back in the 1980's.

[ 08-18-2002, 12:06 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

[Dave Fleming]

I have in recent times favoured the Milwaukee line of tools. When doing boring and fastening(screwing) I have one with the combo Fuller countersink-counterbore and another with the screw bit. I use 3/8ths chuck Variable Speed with reverse drill motors but if you are cautious about screw torque you could subsititute a Scru-gun with adjustable torque setting for one of the drill motors. I favour JACOBS chucks over 'keyless' chuchs myself.
Once Black and Decker was at the top of the portable electic tool pile but sadly not anymore.
Last time I handled any decent industrial grade B&D tools was back in the 1980's.

[ 08-18-2002, 12:06 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

[Bayboat]

Ditto what Dave F. said. I like Milwaukee too.
A strong drill and bronze screws can lead to trouble if the screwing isn't done right. You can break bronze screws very easily when driving into oak. Make sure your pilot holes and clearance holes are the right diameter. Pilot holes should be just a bit smaller than the stem of the screw, and clearance holes should be the same diameter as the shank. There are counterbores available that make the right pilot and clearance holes. Use regular straight drill bits with them, not tapered. Lubricate the screws. I use a wax toilet ring; cheap and won't discolor the oak like soap will. Are you using Frearson (Reed & Prince), square (Robertson), or slotted screws? If they are ever going to come out again, I prefer slotted. But Frearson or square are faster. Experiment on a scrap piece to set the ratchet so the screws will be tight but without undue strain.

[Bayboat]

Ditto what Dave F. said. I like Milwaukee too.
A strong drill and bronze screws can lead to trouble if the screwing isn't done right. You can break bronze screws very easily when driving into oak. Make sure your pilot holes and clearance holes are the right diameter. Pilot holes should be just a bit smaller than the stem of the screw, and clearance holes should be the same diameter as the shank. There are counterbores available that make the right pilot and clearance holes. Use regular straight drill bits with them, not tapered. Lubricate the screws. I use a wax toilet ring; cheap and won't discolor the oak like soap will. Are you using Frearson (Reed & Prince), square (Robertson), or slotted screws? If they are ever going to come out again, I prefer slotted. But Frearson or square are faster. Experiment on a scrap piece to set the ratchet so the screws will be tight but without undue strain.

[Bayboat]

Ditto what Dave F. said. I like Milwaukee too.
A strong drill and bronze screws can lead to trouble if the screwing isn't done right. You can break bronze screws very easily when driving into oak. Make sure your pilot holes and clearance holes are the right diameter. Pilot holes should be just a bit smaller than the stem of the screw, and clearance holes should be the same diameter as the shank. There are counterbores available that make the right pilot and clearance holes. Use regular straight drill bits with them, not tapered. Lubricate the screws. I use a wax toilet ring; cheap and won't discolor the oak like soap will. Are you using Frearson (Reed & Prince), square (Robertson), or slotted screws? If they are ever going to come out again, I prefer slotted. But Frearson or square are faster. Experiment on a scrap piece to set the ratchet so the screws will be tight but without undue strain.

[rkrough]

you don't need an expensive screwgun for what you are doing. A $40 3/8" VSR drill will work just fine. It turns slower and you will make less mistakes. If you want a stop for counter setting the screw heads get a small piece of 3/16 ID plastic tubing and slip it over the shank of the bit(use a 2-3" long bit). on a test piece of wood keep trimming back the plastic tubing till the depth is where you want it and the bit disengages from the screw. I have done it years and it has worked just fine. BTW make sure you predrill that oak planking with the right size screw counterbore so you don't break screws and/or split the planking

rich

[ 08-18-2002, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: rkrough ]

[rkrough]

you don't need an expensive screwgun for what you are doing. A $40 3/8" VSR drill will work just fine. It turns slower and you will make less mistakes. If you want a stop for counter setting the screw heads get a small piece of 3/16 ID plastic tubing and slip it over the shank of the bit(use a 2-3" long bit). on a test piece of wood keep trimming back the plastic tubing till the depth is where you want it and the bit disengages from the screw. I have done it years and it has worked just fine. BTW make sure you predrill that oak planking with the right size screw counterbore so you don't break screws and/or split the planking

rich

[ 08-18-2002, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: rkrough ]

[rkrough]

you don't need an expensive screwgun for what you are doing. A $40 3/8" VSR drill will work just fine. It turns slower and you will make less mistakes. If you want a stop for counter setting the screw heads get a small piece of 3/16 ID plastic tubing and slip it over the shank of the bit(use a 2-3" long bit). on a test piece of wood keep trimming back the plastic tubing till the depth is where you want it and the bit disengages from the screw. I have done it years and it has worked just fine. BTW make sure you predrill that oak planking with the right size screw counterbore so you don't break screws and/or split the planking

rich

[ 08-18-2002, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: rkrough ]

[Mr. Know It All]

I've used a Black & Decker cordless 12 volt Firestorm drill with good results. It was much more powerfull than I thought it would be, and the 23 torque settings kept me from driving the screws too deep into the wood. The charge lasts for hours and trust me......you will need a break before the drill does and it recharges faster than I do. With torque control you don't strip the heads out quite as much either. I've seen them for sale for as little as 40 bucks (right after I bought mine) but of course I paid around 70 bucks. You can buy an extra battery and never have to stop if you want.
Peace---> Kevin in Ohio

[Mr. Know It All]

I've used a Black & Decker cordless 12 volt Firestorm drill with good results. It was much more powerfull than I thought it would be, and the 23 torque settings kept me from driving the screws too deep into the wood. The charge lasts for hours and trust me......you will need a break before the drill does and it recharges faster than I do. With torque control you don't strip the heads out quite as much either. I've seen them for sale for as little as 40 bucks (right after I bought mine) but of course I paid around 70 bucks. You can buy an extra battery and never have to stop if you want.
Peace---> Kevin in Ohio

[Mr. Know It All]

I've used a Black & Decker cordless 12 volt Firestorm drill with good results. It was much more powerfull than I thought it would be, and the 23 torque settings kept me from driving the screws too deep into the wood. The charge lasts for hours and trust me......you will need a break before the drill does and it recharges faster than I do. With torque control you don't strip the heads out quite as much either. I've seen them for sale for as little as 40 bucks (right after I bought mine) but of course I paid around 70 bucks. You can buy an extra battery and never have to stop if you want.
Peace---> Kevin in Ohio

[Capt.Pepe]

I've bought the square drive screws from Mc Feely,
with driver bits and an adapter for my old Yankee sprial screwdriver - but looking forward to using a powerdriver for this job.
Thanks to all -

[Capt.Pepe]

I've bought the square drive screws from Mc Feely,
with driver bits and an adapter for my old Yankee sprial screwdriver - but looking forward to using a powerdriver for this job.
Thanks to all -

[Capt.Pepe]

I've bought the square drive screws from Mc Feely,
with driver bits and an adapter for my old Yankee sprial screwdriver - but looking forward to using a powerdriver for this job.
Thanks to all -

[Garrett Lowell]

I have to say the Milwaukee Close Quarters Drill is my favorite. Not overly strong, but strong enough for any job I've thrown at it. Well balanced, and since it's an offset, it allows you much more control than a conventional drill or a power screw driver.

[Garrett Lowell]

I have to say the Milwaukee Close Quarters Drill is my favorite. Not overly strong, but strong enough for any job I've thrown at it. Well balanced, and since it's an offset, it allows you much more control than a conventional drill or a power screw driver.

[Garrett Lowell]

I have to say the Milwaukee Close Quarters Drill is my favorite. Not overly strong, but strong enough for any job I've thrown at it. Well balanced, and since it's an offset, it allows you much more control than a conventional drill or a power screw driver.

[Dave Fleming]

Capt Pepe, I dunno how proficient you are with the Yankee but...just be very careful if it is a 'quick return' type. Best to removed the spring through the screw in the head of the handle but, cover it with a rag to prevent that thing from flying into outer space.
First time I displayed mine, as a green pea apprentice the foreman Eddie Banks, took it from my hands tried it to see if the spring was still in it, it was. He then walked up to the tool shack and took a screw driver and removed it and tossed it, the spring, in the garbage. He commented that, 'donkey marks'*, in nice Teak or Mahogony trim work were not tolerated.
I retreived the spring later and cleaned and oiled it and put it in my gosh box and there it has stayed for over 30 years. Ya folla?

* donkey marks, so called because only and ass would make them. OUCH OUCH!

[Dave Fleming]

Capt Pepe, I dunno how proficient you are with the Yankee but...just be very careful if it is a 'quick return' type. Best to removed the spring through the screw in the head of the handle but, cover it with a rag to prevent that thing from flying into outer space.
First time I displayed mine, as a green pea apprentice the foreman Eddie Banks, took it from my hands tried it to see if the spring was still in it, it was. He then walked up to the tool shack and took a screw driver and removed it and tossed it, the spring, in the garbage. He commented that, 'donkey marks'*, in nice Teak or Mahogony trim work were not tolerated.
I retreived the spring later and cleaned and oiled it and put it in my gosh box and there it has stayed for over 30 years. Ya folla?

* donkey marks, so called because only and ass would make them. OUCH OUCH!

[Dave Fleming]

Capt Pepe, I dunno how proficient you are with the Yankee but...just be very careful if it is a 'quick return' type. Best to removed the spring through the screw in the head of the handle but, cover it with a rag to prevent that thing from flying into outer space.
First time I displayed mine, as a green pea apprentice the foreman Eddie Banks, took it from my hands tried it to see if the spring was still in it, it was. He then walked up to the tool shack and took a screw driver and removed it and tossed it, the spring, in the garbage. He commented that, 'donkey marks'*, in nice Teak or Mahogony trim work were not tolerated.
I retreived the spring later and cleaned and oiled it and put it in my gosh box and there it has stayed for over 30 years. Ya folla?

* donkey marks, so called because only and ass would make them. OUCH OUCH!

[Donn]

My favorite is my brand new Ryobi 18v. Has a 24 position clutch, but the best feature, IMO, is the level on the top of the case, and the bubble in the back end. Since I got these varilux glasses, I can't drill or drive straight. Pretty strong, too...drove a 3 1/2" screw into a piece of well-seasoned white oak like it was butter.

Came with a case, 2 batteries and a 1-hour charger. $99 at Home Depot.

[Donn]

My favorite is my brand new Ryobi 18v. Has a 24 position clutch, but the best feature, IMO, is the level on the top of the case, and the bubble in the back end. Since I got these varilux glasses, I can't drill or drive straight. Pretty strong, too...drove a 3 1/2" screw into a piece of well-seasoned white oak like it was butter.

Came with a case, 2 batteries and a 1-hour charger. $99 at Home Depot.

[Donn]

My favorite is my brand new Ryobi 18v. Has a 24 position clutch, but the best feature, IMO, is the level on the top of the case, and the bubble in the back end. Since I got these varilux glasses, I can't drill or drive straight. Pretty strong, too...drove a 3 1/2" screw into a piece of well-seasoned white oak like it was butter.

Came with a case, 2 batteries and a 1-hour charger. $99 at Home Depot.

[Ross Faneuf]

I'll chime in with a vote for Milwaukee as well. It's just remarkable how crummy any other drill seems when you pick up a Milwaukee.

That said, you can certainly drive screws in oak with excellent control with a cordless - depending on screw size. I have a Panasonic 15.6v driver which is probably adequate for up to #12 3" or so in oak, and has more than enough torque to give you a seriously sore wrist if not treated with respect. I particularly like it for bronze because you the torque setting and reliable and repeatable, which is important for bronze.

However you drive the screws, I'll repeat the importance of correctly sized pilot holes. And don't forget to make sure the pilot is deeper than the screw will go - nothing guarantees busted bronze screws like a hole which isn't quite deep enough.

And by the way, for only a few hundred screws, don't despise a brace with the correct bit (particularly if you can find at bit with the square spade end). This is both your max torque and max control way to drive bronze screws.

[ 08-19-2002, 06:00 PM: Message edited by: Ross Faneuf ]

[Ross Faneuf]

I'll chime in with a vote for Milwaukee as well. It's just remarkable how crummy any other drill seems when you pick up a Milwaukee.

That said, you can certainly drive screws in oak with excellent control with a cordless - depending on screw size. I have a Panasonic 15.6v driver which is probably adequate for up to #12 3" or so in oak, and has more than enough torque to give you a seriously sore wrist if not treated with respect. I particularly like it for bronze because you the torque setting and reliable and repeatable, which is important for bronze.

However you drive the screws, I'll repeat the importance of correctly sized pilot holes. And don't forget to make sure the pilot is deeper than the screw will go - nothing guarantees busted bronze screws like a hole which isn't quite deep enough.

And by the way, for only a few hundred screws, don't despise a brace with the correct bit (particularly if you can find at bit with the square spade end). This is both your max torque and max control way to drive bronze screws.

[ 08-19-2002, 06:00 PM: Message edited by: Ross Faneuf ]

[Ross Faneuf]

I'll chime in with a vote for Milwaukee as well. It's just remarkable how crummy any other drill seems when you pick up a Milwaukee.

That said, you can certainly drive screws in oak with excellent control with a cordless - depending on screw size. I have a Panasonic 15.6v driver which is probably adequate for up to #12 3" or so in oak, and has more than enough torque to give you a seriously sore wrist if not treated with respect. I particularly like it for bronze because you the torque setting and reliable and repeatable, which is important for bronze.

However you drive the screws, I'll repeat the importance of correctly sized pilot holes. And don't forget to make sure the pilot is deeper than the screw will go - nothing guarantees busted bronze screws like a hole which isn't quite deep enough.

And by the way, for only a few hundred screws, don't despise a brace with the correct bit (particularly if you can find at bit with the square spade end). This is both your max torque and max control way to drive bronze screws.

[ 08-19-2002, 06:00 PM: Message edited by: Ross Faneuf ]

[Dave Fleming]

This the item you are talking about? Looks like a copy of the old Sioux right angle or maybe Sioux makes them for Milwaukee. This one has 1/2 inch chuck and 0-750 RPM, IIRC. https://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/met/html/images/mediumprod/0379-1.jpg

[Dave Fleming]

This the item you are talking about? Looks like a copy of the old Sioux right angle or maybe Sioux makes them for Milwaukee. This one has 1/2 inch chuck and 0-750 RPM, IIRC. https://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/met/html/images/mediumprod/0379-1.jpg

[Dave Fleming]

This the item you are talking about? Looks like a copy of the old Sioux right angle or maybe Sioux makes them for Milwaukee. This one has 1/2 inch chuck and 0-750 RPM, IIRC. https://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/met/html/images/mediumprod/0379-1.jpg

[Bayboat]

Sioux still makes that drill. It's a good bet that they also make them for Milwaukee, which looks just like it.

[Bayboat]

Sioux still makes that drill. It's a good bet that they also make them for Milwaukee, which looks just like it.

[Bayboat]

Sioux still makes that drill. It's a good bet that they also make them for Milwaukee, which looks just like it.

[CharlieZ]

...known around here as a "penguin."

[CharlieZ]

...known around here as a "penguin."

[CharlieZ]

...known around here as a "penguin."

[Garrett Lowell]

I have that Ryobi drill as well. I don't have much bad to say about it, except the batteries have a tendency to just fall out. This is very annoying when you are in an awkward position and the thing falls on your face. Or you are 11' off the ground, and the battery falls out, and then you have to climb down to get it. Otherwise, it works fine.

[Garrett Lowell]

I have that Ryobi drill as well. I don't have much bad to say about it, except the batteries have a tendency to just fall out. This is very annoying when you are in an awkward position and the thing falls on your face. Or you are 11' off the ground, and the battery falls out, and then you have to climb down to get it. Otherwise, it works fine.

[Garrett Lowell]

I have that Ryobi drill as well. I don't have much bad to say about it, except the batteries have a tendency to just fall out. This is very annoying when you are in an awkward position and the thing falls on your face. Or you are 11' off the ground, and the battery falls out, and then you have to climb down to get it. Otherwise, it works fine.

[Paul Scheuer]

Drill attachment ? I use a garage sale item that was virtually free. Chucks in any drill, has a berrel shaped, two-piece speed-reducer/clutch. You grip one half to stop it, and the other half spins to drive the screw. Grip the other half, and it unscrews. Might have been made by Sears.

When I really want to enjoy the screwing process, I use a brace with a driver bit. Probably can't get square drive bits though.

Get the hole size right and lube the screws !

[Paul Scheuer]

Drill attachment ? I use a garage sale item that was virtually free. Chucks in any drill, has a berrel shaped, two-piece speed-reducer/clutch. You grip one half to stop it, and the other half spins to drive the screw. Grip the other half, and it unscrews. Might have been made by Sears.

When I really want to enjoy the screwing process, I use a brace with a driver bit. Probably can't get square drive bits though.

Get the hole size right and lube the screws !

[Paul Scheuer]

Drill attachment ? I use a garage sale item that was virtually free. Chucks in any drill, has a berrel shaped, two-piece speed-reducer/clutch. You grip one half to stop it, and the other half spins to drive the screw. Grip the other half, and it unscrews. Might have been made by Sears.

When I really want to enjoy the screwing process, I use a brace with a driver bit. Probably can't get square drive bits though.

Get the hole size right and lube the screws !

[Ken Hall]

I had a DeWalt 14.4v cordless I was quite fond of, until it up and walked away about four years ago. :mad:

Decided I couldn't justify buying another cordless right away, so I bought one with the AC leash. It'll do, but I'm going back to cordless one of these days. It's variable speed, but without the clutch I tend to "lead-finger" it. Plays hob with the fasteners and such....

[Ken Hall]

I had a DeWalt 14.4v cordless I was quite fond of, until it up and walked away about four years ago. :mad:

Decided I couldn't justify buying another cordless right away, so I bought one with the AC leash. It'll do, but I'm going back to cordless one of these days. It's variable speed, but without the clutch I tend to "lead-finger" it. Plays hob with the fasteners and such....

[Ken Hall]

I had a DeWalt 14.4v cordless I was quite fond of, until it up and walked away about four years ago. :mad:

Decided I couldn't justify buying another cordless right away, so I bought one with the AC leash. It'll do, but I'm going back to cordless one of these days. It's variable speed, but without the clutch I tend to "lead-finger" it. Plays hob with the fasteners and such....

[Capt.Pepe]

I went to the local depot store and looked at the
Milwaukee - (160.00), dewalts and others.
I decided to try the Ryobi 3/8 Drill-driver with the adjustable torque clutch ( 40.00), 120v.
Got it home - drilled a few holes into solid white oak - and drove home a few #12, 1 1/2 bronze screws, both phillips and square drive, with no problems. It also has the keyless chuck and comes with a case and extra bits.
A two year warranty to boot.
I expect to put it to the real test shortly.
Thanks for all of the great feedback.
Capt.Pepe

[Capt.Pepe]

I went to the local depot store and looked at the
Milwaukee - (160.00), dewalts and others.
I decided to try the Ryobi 3/8 Drill-driver with the adjustable torque clutch ( 40.00), 120v.
Got it home - drilled a few holes into solid white oak - and drove home a few #12, 1 1/2 bronze screws, both phillips and square drive, with no problems. It also has the keyless chuck and comes with a case and extra bits.
A two year warranty to boot.
I expect to put it to the real test shortly.
Thanks for all of the great feedback.
Capt.Pepe

[Capt.Pepe]

I went to the local depot store and looked at the
Milwaukee - (160.00), dewalts and others.
I decided to try the Ryobi 3/8 Drill-driver with the adjustable torque clutch ( 40.00), 120v.
Got it home - drilled a few holes into solid white oak - and drove home a few #12, 1 1/2 bronze screws, both phillips and square drive, with no problems. It also has the keyless chuck and comes with a case and extra bits.
A two year warranty to boot.
I expect to put it to the real test shortly.
Thanks for all of the great feedback.
Capt.Pepe

[Garrett Lowell]

For those of you who have no aversion to shopping online, I picked up my Milwaukee at toolmart.com, for 145.00.

[Garrett Lowell]

For those of you who have no aversion to shopping online, I picked up my Milwaukee at toolmart.com, for 145.00.

[Garrett Lowell]

For those of you who have no aversion to shopping online, I picked up my Milwaukee at toolmart.com, for 145.00.

[Dale R. Hamilton]

My preference is air. After driving thousands of square head screws into mahogany framing, nothing, but nothing is superior to pneumatic. Its as powerful as you need, never wears out, lightweight, no shock hazard, cool-but of course you have that damn snake draging behind you. I can live with it.

[Dale R. Hamilton]

My preference is air. After driving thousands of square head screws into mahogany framing, nothing, but nothing is superior to pneumatic. Its as powerful as you need, never wears out, lightweight, no shock hazard, cool-but of course you have that damn snake draging behind you. I can live with it.

[Dale R. Hamilton]

My preference is air. After driving thousands of square head screws into mahogany framing, nothing, but nothing is superior to pneumatic. Its as powerful as you need, never wears out, lightweight, no shock hazard, cool-but of course you have that damn snake draging behind you. I can live with it.

[warthog5]

For Mr Know it all. I just say a recall on the Firestorm drills. You might want to check that out. Something about the switch's overheating. I've got 2-14.4 Dewalts and love them. Everyone you talk to around here say's. You buy the others first and then you step up to the Dewalt and never go back. 14.4V, 1/2in chuck on sale at Lowes $150.00. It was the best price I'd ever seen them. I bought one and then went back the next day and bought the other one. I don't like the 18.8V, it's to heavy and bulky. I've used the Millwake before and it's OK. My buddy works for maintance with the city and they went from Millwake to Dewalt.

[warthog5]

For Mr Know it all. I just say a recall on the Firestorm drills. You might want to check that out. Something about the switch's overheating. I've got 2-14.4 Dewalts and love them. Everyone you talk to around here say's. You buy the others first and then you step up to the Dewalt and never go back. 14.4V, 1/2in chuck on sale at Lowes $150.00. It was the best price I'd ever seen them. I bought one and then went back the next day and bought the other one. I don't like the 18.8V, it's to heavy and bulky. I've used the Millwake before and it's OK. My buddy works for maintance with the city and they went from Millwake to Dewalt.

[warthog5]

For Mr Know it all. I just say a recall on the Firestorm drills. You might want to check that out. Something about the switch's overheating. I've got 2-14.4 Dewalts and love them. Everyone you talk to around here say's. You buy the others first and then you step up to the Dewalt and never go back. 14.4V, 1/2in chuck on sale at Lowes $150.00. It was the best price I'd ever seen them. I bought one and then went back the next day and bought the other one. I don't like the 18.8V, it's to heavy and bulky. I've used the Millwake before and it's OK. My buddy works for maintance with the city and they went from Millwake to Dewalt.

[stan v]

For anyone else considering a cordless drill/driver I hightly recommend the Milwaukee. Just bought my son one for his birthday and I think it's the 14.4 volt? Great tool. I quit buying cheap tools a long time ago. You can absolutely put Craftsman in that category, cheap.

Warthog, I bought the Dewalt 41/2" grinder earlier this year, great tool.

[ 08-22-2002, 06:48 AM: Message edited by: stan v ]

[stan v]

For anyone else considering a cordless drill/driver I hightly recommend the Milwaukee. Just bought my son one for his birthday and I think it's the 14.4 volt? Great tool. I quit buying cheap tools a long time ago. You can absolutely put Craftsman in that category, cheap.

Warthog, I bought the Dewalt 41/2" grinder earlier this year, great tool.

[ 08-22-2002, 06:48 AM: Message edited by: stan v ]

[stan v]

For anyone else considering a cordless drill/driver I hightly recommend the Milwaukee. Just bought my son one for his birthday and I think it's the 14.4 volt? Great tool. I quit buying cheap tools a long time ago. You can absolutely put Craftsman in that category, cheap.

Warthog, I bought the Dewalt 41/2" grinder earlier this year, great tool.

[ 08-22-2002, 06:48 AM: Message edited by: stan v ]

[Mr. Know It All]

Warthog5..... Thanks for letting me know about the recall. I have to say though I bought it over a year ago and have used it almost every day for all kinds of jobs without any problems. I'm sure it's not the best one on the market but it was cheap and has worked well for me. If I was using one for professional use day in and day out I'd probably invest a little more money for a better quality tool. At the time I bought it It was all I could afford and I have to admit I feel I got my moneys worth out of it aready.
Peace----> Kevin in Ohio

[Mr. Know It All]

Warthog5..... Thanks for letting me know about the recall. I have to say though I bought it over a year ago and have used it almost every day for all kinds of jobs without any problems. I'm sure it's not the best one on the market but it was cheap and has worked well for me. If I was using one for professional use day in and day out I'd probably invest a little more money for a better quality tool. At the time I bought it It was all I could afford and I have to admit I feel I got my moneys worth out of it aready.
Peace----> Kevin in Ohio

[Mr. Know It All]

Warthog5..... Thanks for letting me know about the recall. I have to say though I bought it over a year ago and have used it almost every day for all kinds of jobs without any problems. I'm sure it's not the best one on the market but it was cheap and has worked well for me. If I was using one for professional use day in and day out I'd probably invest a little more money for a better quality tool. At the time I bought it It was all I could afford and I have to admit I feel I got my moneys worth out of it aready.
Peace----> Kevin in Ohio

[Figment]

I have a fuzzy memory of someone telling me that Dewalts are just B&D with yellow plastic and a higher pricetag.

can anyone confirm or refute?

[Figment]

I have a fuzzy memory of someone telling me that Dewalts are just B&D with yellow plastic and a higher pricetag.

can anyone confirm or refute?

[Figment]

I have a fuzzy memory of someone telling me that Dewalts are just B&D with yellow plastic and a higher pricetag.

can anyone confirm or refute?

[Garrett Lowell]

B&D does manufacture DeWalt. I can vouch from experience that DeWalt is higher quality than B&D.

[Garrett Lowell]

B&D does manufacture DeWalt. I can vouch from experience that DeWalt is higher quality than B&D.

[Garrett Lowell]

B&D does manufacture DeWalt. I can vouch from experience that DeWalt is higher quality than B&D.

[Dave Fleming]

How times have changed! Once B&D was on the top of the quality portable electric tools heap.
Their line for Industry and Construction was ***aces***. Then suddenly it went into the toilet and the B&D name seemed to disappear.

DeWalt was a separate company famous for its radial arm saws, bought out bye the old American Machine and Foundry now called AMF, then sold to B&D and they capitolized, IMOOP, on the good name and started a tool line with it. The rest we all know.

To see how old ye all are, does anybody remember:
Thor
Van Dorn
Carter
Stanley Electric Tools?

[Dave Fleming]

How times have changed! Once B&D was on the top of the quality portable electric tools heap.
Their line for Industry and Construction was ***aces***. Then suddenly it went into the toilet and the B&D name seemed to disappear.

DeWalt was a separate company famous for its radial arm saws, bought out bye the old American Machine and Foundry now called AMF, then sold to B&D and they capitolized, IMOOP, on the good name and started a tool line with it. The rest we all know.

To see how old ye all are, does anybody remember:
Thor
Van Dorn
Carter
Stanley Electric Tools?

[Dave Fleming]

How times have changed! Once B&D was on the top of the quality portable electric tools heap.
Their line for Industry and Construction was ***aces***. Then suddenly it went into the toilet and the B&D name seemed to disappear.

DeWalt was a separate company famous for its radial arm saws, bought out bye the old American Machine and Foundry now called AMF, then sold to B&D and they capitolized, IMOOP, on the good name and started a tool line with it. The rest we all know.

To see how old ye all are, does anybody remember:
Thor
Van Dorn
Carter
Stanley Electric Tools?

[Scott Rosen]

I'm happy with my Dewalt 14.4 cordless.

I'd do the fastening like this. Forget the tapered bits. Go with a stepped bit made to the size of your screws. I've never been happy with the results of the tapered bits. The pilot hole ends up being too narrow at the tip and too wide at the top. Screw shanks aren't tapered, by the way. They are straight until very end of the tip, the last couple of threads are the only tapered part. A straight bit gives you a better pilot hole, one that matches the shape of the shank.

I like white lead paste for a lubricant. I has the added benefit of the rot-resistant properties of lead. You can also use the white lead paste to set your bungs, if you are going to paint the work. Varnished work wouldn't look too good with white lead rings around all of your bungs.

I drive the screws almost home with the power driver set on a low torque setting and then finish with a hand brace and bit. I've never trusted the power drivers to get the right set, and I don't trust the "feel" of the power drivers. I can tell when I'm using a brace just when the torque is right.

Them's my $0.02. Probably repeats some of what others have said.

[Scott Rosen]

I'm happy with my Dewalt 14.4 cordless.

I'd do the fastening like this. Forget the tapered bits. Go with a stepped bit made to the size of your screws. I've never been happy with the results of the tapered bits. The pilot hole ends up being too narrow at the tip and too wide at the top. Screw shanks aren't tapered, by the way. They are straight until very end of the tip, the last couple of threads are the only tapered part. A straight bit gives you a better pilot hole, one that matches the shape of the shank.

I like white lead paste for a lubricant. I has the added benefit of the rot-resistant properties of lead. You can also use the white lead paste to set your bungs, if you are going to paint the work. Varnished work wouldn't look too good with white lead rings around all of your bungs.

I drive the screws almost home with the power driver set on a low torque setting and then finish with a hand brace and bit. I've never trusted the power drivers to get the right set, and I don't trust the "feel" of the power drivers. I can tell when I'm using a brace just when the torque is right.

Them's my $0.02. Probably repeats some of what others have said.

[Scott Rosen]

I'm happy with my Dewalt 14.4 cordless.

I'd do the fastening like this. Forget the tapered bits. Go with a stepped bit made to the size of your screws. I've never been happy with the results of the tapered bits. The pilot hole ends up being too narrow at the tip and too wide at the top. Screw shanks aren't tapered, by the way. They are straight until very end of the tip, the last couple of threads are the only tapered part. A straight bit gives you a better pilot hole, one that matches the shape of the shank.

I like white lead paste for a lubricant. I has the added benefit of the rot-resistant properties of lead. You can also use the white lead paste to set your bungs, if you are going to paint the work. Varnished work wouldn't look too good with white lead rings around all of your bungs.

I drive the screws almost home with the power driver set on a low torque setting and then finish with a hand brace and bit. I've never trusted the power drivers to get the right set, and I don't trust the "feel" of the power drivers. I can tell when I'm using a brace just when the torque is right.

Them's my $0.02. Probably repeats some of what others have said.

[Bob Adams]

I've had very good service with the DeWalt line from Black & Decker. However, after announcing a 37% increase in profit, they announced major layoffs in the USA plants. They intend to send one major line a month to Brazil ect. The plant in Maryland that lost half it's people and their high costs, the workers losing their jobs earned an average of $8.50 an hour.A pox on Black & Decker.

[ 08-24-2002, 11:07 AM: Message edited by: Bob Adams ]

[Bob Adams]

I've had very good service with the DeWalt line from Black & Decker. However, after announcing a 37% increase in profit, they announced major layoffs in the USA plants. They intend to send one major line a month to Brazil ect. The plant in Maryland that lost half it's people and their high costs, the workers losing their jobs earned an average of $8.50 an hour.A pox on Black & Decker.

[ 08-24-2002, 11:07 AM: Message edited by: Bob Adams ]

[Bob Adams]

I've had very good service with the DeWalt line from Black & Decker. However, after announcing a 37% increase in profit, they announced major layoffs in the USA plants. They intend to send one major line a month to Brazil ect. The plant in Maryland that lost half it's people and their high costs, the workers losing their jobs earned an average of $8.50 an hour.A pox on Black & Decker.

[ 08-24-2002, 11:07 AM: Message edited by: Bob Adams ]

[imported_Steven Bauer]

From some reviews I've read and my own experiences the Ryobi and B+D Firestorm won't hold up to everyday use. The Dewalt is better but not as good as the Porter-Cable, Bosch, or Milwaukee. I was surprised but the Panasonic got the best reviews from several different sources. Best gears, best clutch, best batteries.

[imported_Steven Bauer]

From some reviews I've read and my own experiences the Ryobi and B+D Firestorm won't hold up to everyday use. The Dewalt is better but not as good as the Porter-Cable, Bosch, or Milwaukee. I was surprised but the Panasonic got the best reviews from several different sources. Best gears, best clutch, best batteries.

[imported_Steven Bauer]

From some reviews I've read and my own experiences the Ryobi and B+D Firestorm won't hold up to everyday use. The Dewalt is better but not as good as the Porter-Cable, Bosch, or Milwaukee. I was surprised but the Panasonic got the best reviews from several different sources. Best gears, best clutch, best batteries.