Cutting steel on a bandsaw

[Rich VanValkenburg]

I have to trim the new 1/8" steel frame gusset for Sonja, and I thought of trying it on my bandsaw. I have an old Sears 12 inch, but I remember the last time I tried it, (with a metal-cutting blade) the blade lasted 30 seconds before it went up in a shower of sparks. I believe I need to get the speed down, but can't find a speed control for it. Is there such a thing, or should I try to re-pulley the saw?

Rich

[ 05-24-2002, 10:12 PM: Message edited by: Rich VanValkenburg ]

[warthog5]

My dad had the same saw and my brother built a congolormation of piller bearings and large pullies to slow the speed down. The blade speed needs to run 50 to 150 [can't remember if it's fps or fpm]

[Nick Kent]

I heared that to cut steel you were supposed to speed the cutting up because it was actually friction and heat that ends up cutting the metal.

[PugetSound]

Rich, how much trimming do you have to do? 1/8 inch thick steel (aka 5.1 lb plate) isn't very thick from the viewpoint of a shipbuilder but it is enough to build up a blade destroying heat if you don't get the speed way way down. If you don't have very much to trim, why don't you just use a composition disk cut-off wheel?! This is what we use at the shipyard. Hummer makes these things and while an electric drill is relatively slow (compared to an air grinder) it will still work great. If you can get hold of an air grinder, then you'll never want to consider cutting metal on your bandsaw again.

[Mike Field]

What PugetSound says. (Kilroy got here first,,,,)

[wolfietuk]

Even if you get the speed down you will need to get a really good blade. I do not know if you will be able to find one for a 12". You might try using a jig saw. keep plenty of lubricant on the cut, this is where a friend can help. Puget is correct in the way he does it but I just cant stand the noise. The jig saw is slower but will work, do not force it.

Rick

[Rich VanValkenburg]

I need to take 3/8" off the top so that the mast step will fit properly. I have a Metabo grinder, but thought it was a little much to grind. Maybe I should rethink. Thanks for the reponses. I can handle wood, but metal gives me fits.

Rich

[Dave Carnell]

Take your circular saw and put an old fine-tooth plywood blade in it. Weara face shield and sleeves. Push the saw blade into the metal as hard as you can. With a great shower of sparks you will burn through like a hot knife through butter. There will be a flash of melted metal on the cut edge. The blade doesn't get hot, so will last for years without apparent wear. Among other uses, that is the way I cut up dead appliances so they fit into the trash cart. Enjoy!

[Charlie J]

I have an old Delta 14 inch combination metal/wood band saw. Has an oil filled gearbox and a transfer case. For cutting metal you slow it WAY WAY down and use a metal cutting blade.

I don't think you'll want to go to the trouble to repulley for just one use. I'd use an abrasive disc in a grinder or follow one of the other suggestions.

Actually - if I had to do that, just one time, I'd go find a metal shop or welding shop and pay 'em to do the cut, then I'd grind the cut smooth.

[NormMessinger]

Zip blade on your (rental?) angle grinder. kerf about 1/32". Cuts like butter with a hot knife. Well, okay, cold butter and a dull knife.

--Norm

[brian.cunningham]

Make sure you cool the blade with cutting oil, or it won't last long even with the speed turned down.

I also vote for a grinder with a cutoff wheel.
I cut through some 1/8 wall 2x2 steel tubing that way.

You could also use a torch, but you'd have to dress up the edge.

[Rich VanValkenburg]

As long as this is back up, I'll fill you in. I scrapped the idea of a speed reducer for the bandsaw. I broke a cutoff wheel trying that way(that was exciting). swmbo wouldn't let me try Dave Carnell's method (something about what the firemen would say after I burned the shop down).

So, the one thing I'll never question again is why they call a sawzall just that. Finished up with a grinder.

Rich

[George Roberts]

Metal working shops have band saws. Mild steel can be cut at 100 surface feet per minute with a metal cutting blade. 1/8" stock goes thru fast.

As others have suggested, there are lots of ways to solve the problem depending on the equiptment you have.

I would use my hack saw for straight cuts and my variable speed saber saw for curves.

[capt jake]

Ah heck, nobody mentioned a torch! ;) Ho hum, back to the shop I go! :D ;)

[Charlie J]

Sawsall- cuts anything BUT a straight line

[Charlie J]

Sawsall- cuts anything BUT a straight line :D

[gary porter]

Rich, if thats all you have to do, save yourself the grief and take it to a local machine shop etc. have them cut it off and get on with your boat and wood. There are a hundred ways to cut metal but what is most efficient for you and your project.
Gary ;)

[Ross Faneuf]

Your woodcutting band saw was NOT designed to cut steel. Although it will cut aluminum very well.

Blade speed for steel (mild steel) is approximately 1/10 the speed for wood. The blade must be a metal cutting blade, and should be lubricated with cutting oil unless you want to kill the blade very quickly. And in any case, you don't want all that oil all over your wood saw.

There are composite blades which cut metal through abrasion, which you could probably mount in a chop saw. These will cut steel, to the accompaniament of sparks, heat, smell, and some mess. But no oil. There is no equivalent for your band saw. These are now commonly used by metal fabrication shops and plumbers.

[RGM]

I'm a little late on this one, but I'll throw in my $0.02 worth anyway. If you aren't set up for cutting metal it's a good idea to go to someone that is, as the others have suggested, sheet metal shops, welding shops or even the closest school shop. You can usually get a small job done for a few bucks or a six pack of beer. Don't use the beer for the school shop job though. Two good reasons for farming out some of the metal work are:
1. Getting yourself established with some of the local shops/craftsman in your area, you may need their services again.
2. The second one, most people don't consider this until it's a little too late is the risk of starting a fire in your home or garage shop. This goes back to originally not being set up to deal with metal cutting. Excessive heat, friction and flying or falling sparks can quickly result in a disaster in a wood/boat shop. Sparks will quickly find a pile of sawdust or that paint brush left soaking in the coffee can full of thinner. Leave the "high heat" work to the pros.

[ 05-29-2002, 02:40 PM: Message edited by: RGM ]

[clancyb]

Use your grinder w/ a metal cutting blade - it'll take just a couple minutes. I've cut a lot of stainless steel counter(about 1/8" thick w/ 1 1/2 inch MDF under it)w/ my dewalt grinder, it works just fine. Go a bit proud of the line, then come back for the rest(you can also still take it to a pro if you chicken out halfway through). Don't forget to deburr the cut - metal splinters are no fun. I also keep a wet towel around to cool off the steel so it doesn't discolor.

[Alan D. Hyde]

At one time, many public high schools and middle schools had quite a lot of good metal-working equipment for their shop classes. Not so many do nowdays.

But, if you can make friends with a shop teacher at a school that does, you may get after-hours access, or be able to do something during school hours as an example for students...

Worth checking anyway. Some schools have excellent equipment that mostly sits idle.

Alan

[Wendy Reymond]

Rich - just a suggestion: you could post on www.metalboatsociety.com (http://www.metalboatsociety.com) and find a steel boat builder in your area who would have the equipment. Then you could share the six-pack.

Wendy

[brian.cunningham]

Originally posted by capt jake:
Ah heck, nobody mentioned a torch! ;) Ho hum, back to the shop I go! :D ;) I did!
I did!

[joenadeau]

Rich: your saw should work fine, take it slow and most importantly, get the proper blade. 1/8 is pretty thin, you'll need a fine toothed blade. Don't bother with oil.

[Rich VanValkenburg]

We have a prototype shop at work that is chock full of metal forming gear, so I asked them to do it. The blank came out close and I ended up using the sawzall and a grinder to get to the finished line.

The high school shop is a great idea and one that I didn't even think of. Here in Warren, they're in the process of building a metal fabricating shop that is BIG! The plan is to make it a vocational school for the trades. It's a good idea that's overdue here.

Rich

[formerlyknownasprince]

It's done? Geez Rich - I was just about to make you an offer. I'll come over and do your metal if you come over and do my wood.

Ian

[Ken Hall]

When I was a lad, I cut 1/8" angle stock using a carborundum wheel on a radial arm saw (my dad still has the saw, near 30 years later). Lotsa sparks and noise...did a good job though.

[Sailing-Randy]

Ken, I still do that! I put spacers under the steel so the saw's wood table top doesn't discolor (char?). I also put an old coffee can behind (in front?) the metal to catch the sparks. Onced it's all clamped up, it feels good to be able to make a cut that straight and nice in steel: stainless, high carbon, angle iron, whatever!

Talking steel, has anyone found a good source for steel to make good wood scrapers out of? So far, I picked up an old machette at a farm sale - it came in the box. That works like a charm!

[Bruce Taylor]

Randy -- Old saw blades will take a nice hook. One saw will give you as many scrapers as you can use in a lifetime.

[formerlyknownasprince]

We used to cut steel using a large diameter cut-off wheel held with a bolt into a drill chuck on the outboard end of my wood lathe. Used a cut down hub cap off a car for a guard.