Straightening Bent Teak

[Carlsboats]

Need ideas on straightening a piece of teak. Just bought --at a whopping price -- some 8/4 x 10" teak to use in a teak-and-holly cabin sole. Plan to slice the teak to yield edge-grain slats 1 3/4 wide x about 1/2 thick, and glue these to a plywood subtrate.
But one of the 8/4 pieces has a big bend in it. Laid flat on the shop floor, the middle stands nearly two inches off the floor. It would be tough to get that through the table saw, and my slats would end up with a side cast.
I cannot easily return it to the dealer --he is three hundred miles away. How can I flatten this 8/4 stuff? Weights? Weight plus heat? Wet one side and not the other?
Anybody had experience with this sort of problem with teak? Help!

[Carlsboats]

Need ideas on straightening a piece of teak. Just bought --at a whopping price -- some 8/4 x 10" teak to use in a teak-and-holly cabin sole. Plan to slice the teak to yield edge-grain slats 1 3/4 wide x about 1/2 thick, and glue these to a plywood subtrate.
But one of the 8/4 pieces has a big bend in it. Laid flat on the shop floor, the middle stands nearly two inches off the floor. It would be tough to get that through the table saw, and my slats would end up with a side cast.
I cannot easily return it to the dealer --he is three hundred miles away. How can I flatten this 8/4 stuff? Weights? Weight plus heat? Wet one side and not the other?
Anybody had experience with this sort of problem with teak? Help!

[Carlsboats]

Need ideas on straightening a piece of teak. Just bought --at a whopping price -- some 8/4 x 10" teak to use in a teak-and-holly cabin sole. Plan to slice the teak to yield edge-grain slats 1 3/4 wide x about 1/2 thick, and glue these to a plywood subtrate.
But one of the 8/4 pieces has a big bend in it. Laid flat on the shop floor, the middle stands nearly two inches off the floor. It would be tough to get that through the table saw, and my slats would end up with a side cast.
I cannot easily return it to the dealer --he is three hundred miles away. How can I flatten this 8/4 stuff? Weights? Weight plus heat? Wet one side and not the other?
Anybody had experience with this sort of problem with teak? Help!

[thechemist]

Use the search thingy on the upper right. Search in Building/Repair, entire message, any date, for the words Steam Bending. You should get quite a bit. Read it and see if this will work for you.

[thechemist]

Use the search thingy on the upper right. Search in Building/Repair, entire message, any date, for the words Steam Bending. You should get quite a bit. Read it and see if this will work for you.

[thechemist]

Use the search thingy on the upper right. Search in Building/Repair, entire message, any date, for the words Steam Bending. You should get quite a bit. Read it and see if this will work for you.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Do you have a lawn?

Leave it on the grass overnight, concave side down.

You would be amazed how often this works!

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Do you have a lawn?

Leave it on the grass overnight, concave side down.

You would be amazed how often this works!

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Do you have a lawn?

Leave it on the grass overnight, concave side down.

You would be amazed how often this works!

[Carlsboats]

Tried the lawn trick, but it has been so dry around here that the teak souked up little or no moisture. Will wet down the grass and try it again, this time with some cinder block weights to encourage flattening.
Don't much like the idea of steam but ... I do have a steam box, and if all else fails, I guess I'll have to use it -- unless the lumber wholesaler wants to ship me a new piece of 8/4 stock, freight prepaid.
Thanks for the tips.

[Carlsboats]

Tried the lawn trick, but it has been so dry around here that the teak souked up little or no moisture. Will wet down the grass and try it again, this time with some cinder block weights to encourage flattening.
Don't much like the idea of steam but ... I do have a steam box, and if all else fails, I guess I'll have to use it -- unless the lumber wholesaler wants to ship me a new piece of 8/4 stock, freight prepaid.
Thanks for the tips.

[Carlsboats]

Tried the lawn trick, but it has been so dry around here that the teak souked up little or no moisture. Will wet down the grass and try it again, this time with some cinder block weights to encourage flattening.
Don't much like the idea of steam but ... I do have a steam box, and if all else fails, I guess I'll have to use it -- unless the lumber wholesaler wants to ship me a new piece of 8/4 stock, freight prepaid.
Thanks for the tips.

[Dave Fleming]

If you knew you were going to rip the stock for a cabin sole why did you order a wide plank to begin with. Why not inform your supplier of the intended use and go from there?

confused in 'insane Diego'???????

[Dave Fleming]

If you knew you were going to rip the stock for a cabin sole why did you order a wide plank to begin with. Why not inform your supplier of the intended use and go from there?

confused in 'insane Diego'???????

[Dave Fleming]

If you knew you were going to rip the stock for a cabin sole why did you order a wide plank to begin with. Why not inform your supplier of the intended use and go from there?

confused in 'insane Diego'???????

[RGM]

I understand what you're up to. Sometimes you do have to take some additional steps (v.g. rips from a flat sawn 8/4 board) in order to get the desired results. Your desired results are the appearance of vertical grain teak set-off by holly strips as opposed to flat sawn teak strips. A man after my own heart. I like Andrew's suggestion. I'll have to try that one out myself tonight. However, since you'll be ripping/milling these v.g. strips to a 1/2" thickness you may find that edge setting them straight while glueing up your whole lamination might not be so bad. I think you should try making a rip or two and see how flexible the strips or strakes will be. I invision you glueing/clamping all of the pieces together on workable sections of the ply substrate. Perhaps at worst it will require four hands instead of two, six beers instead of three and some more clamps. Good luck, I think I'll go put some lumber on my lawn before it gets too late.

[RGM]

I understand what you're up to. Sometimes you do have to take some additional steps (v.g. rips from a flat sawn 8/4 board) in order to get the desired results. Your desired results are the appearance of vertical grain teak set-off by holly strips as opposed to flat sawn teak strips. A man after my own heart. I like Andrew's suggestion. I'll have to try that one out myself tonight. However, since you'll be ripping/milling these v.g. strips to a 1/2" thickness you may find that edge setting them straight while glueing up your whole lamination might not be so bad. I think you should try making a rip or two and see how flexible the strips or strakes will be. I invision you glueing/clamping all of the pieces together on workable sections of the ply substrate. Perhaps at worst it will require four hands instead of two, six beers instead of three and some more clamps. Good luck, I think I'll go put some lumber on my lawn before it gets too late.

[RGM]

I understand what you're up to. Sometimes you do have to take some additional steps (v.g. rips from a flat sawn 8/4 board) in order to get the desired results. Your desired results are the appearance of vertical grain teak set-off by holly strips as opposed to flat sawn teak strips. A man after my own heart. I like Andrew's suggestion. I'll have to try that one out myself tonight. However, since you'll be ripping/milling these v.g. strips to a 1/2" thickness you may find that edge setting them straight while glueing up your whole lamination might not be so bad. I think you should try making a rip or two and see how flexible the strips or strakes will be. I invision you glueing/clamping all of the pieces together on workable sections of the ply substrate. Perhaps at worst it will require four hands instead of two, six beers instead of three and some more clamps. Good luck, I think I'll go put some lumber on my lawn before it gets too late.

[Dave Carnell]

The lawn trick works. If it is too dry, lay the board concave side up and put wet newspaper on top while the sun is shining. A more permanent treatment is to lay it concave side up in the sun after wetting that side well with undiluted auto antifreeze. The ethylene glycol acts like water, but is nonvolatile. Before someone else says it, keep puddles of antifreeze out of reach of pets and small children. It is attractive because it is sweeter than sugar and toxic when it is ingested as liquid. No poblem from the treated wood.

[Dave Carnell]

The lawn trick works. If it is too dry, lay the board concave side up and put wet newspaper on top while the sun is shining. A more permanent treatment is to lay it concave side up in the sun after wetting that side well with undiluted auto antifreeze. The ethylene glycol acts like water, but is nonvolatile. Before someone else says it, keep puddles of antifreeze out of reach of pets and small children. It is attractive because it is sweeter than sugar and toxic when it is ingested as liquid. No poblem from the treated wood.

[Dave Carnell]

The lawn trick works. If it is too dry, lay the board concave side up and put wet newspaper on top while the sun is shining. A more permanent treatment is to lay it concave side up in the sun after wetting that side well with undiluted auto antifreeze. The ethylene glycol acts like water, but is nonvolatile. Before someone else says it, keep puddles of antifreeze out of reach of pets and small children. It is attractive because it is sweeter than sugar and toxic when it is ingested as liquid. No poblem from the treated wood.

[Dave Fleming]

That is what I was getting at but failed RGM.
Ripping that board is gonna be a bear especially single handed unless he makes up some snifty holddowns and has a damn good fence on his table saw. Try the wetting out trick but remember there are several reasons why a board bows and not all of them are moisture related.
I'd be inclined to do the initial ripping on a Bandsaw, say splitting the plank down the middle first and then deciding what next to do.
Sure hope he has figured out the waste factor in all that ripping too.

[ 08-11-2002, 11:20 AM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

[Dave Fleming]

That is what I was getting at but failed RGM.
Ripping that board is gonna be a bear especially single handed unless he makes up some snifty holddowns and has a damn good fence on his table saw. Try the wetting out trick but remember there are several reasons why a board bows and not all of them are moisture related.
I'd be inclined to do the initial ripping on a Bandsaw, say splitting the plank down the middle first and then deciding what next to do.
Sure hope he has figured out the waste factor in all that ripping too.

[ 08-11-2002, 11:20 AM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

[Dave Fleming]

That is what I was getting at but failed RGM.
Ripping that board is gonna be a bear especially single handed unless he makes up some snifty holddowns and has a damn good fence on his table saw. Try the wetting out trick but remember there are several reasons why a board bows and not all of them are moisture related.
I'd be inclined to do the initial ripping on a Bandsaw, say splitting the plank down the middle first and then deciding what next to do.
Sure hope he has figured out the waste factor in all that ripping too.

[ 08-11-2002, 11:20 AM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

[pm]

I agree with Dave F. about doing the re-sawing on a large bandsaw (assuming you can get to one). Regardless of whether you can get it straighter or not, there is less waste with bandsaw and surfacing with a planer will hold them flat. But coming out of such a baddly warpped board still gives me some concern even though they will be glued and screwed down to a ply substrate.

Is there going to be some sort of inherent tendence to check?

[pm]

I agree with Dave F. about doing the re-sawing on a large bandsaw (assuming you can get to one). Regardless of whether you can get it straighter or not, there is less waste with bandsaw and surfacing with a planer will hold them flat. But coming out of such a baddly warpped board still gives me some concern even though they will be glued and screwed down to a ply substrate.

Is there going to be some sort of inherent tendence to check?

[pm]

I agree with Dave F. about doing the re-sawing on a large bandsaw (assuming you can get to one). Regardless of whether you can get it straighter or not, there is less waste with bandsaw and surfacing with a planer will hold them flat. But coming out of such a baddly warpped board still gives me some concern even though they will be glued and screwed down to a ply substrate.

Is there going to be some sort of inherent tendence to check?

[Bruce Hooke]

Was the board warped like that when you bought it? (or was it shipped to you?) If it was not warped like that when you bought it then did you store it in a way that caused it to warp by making one side wetter than the other? If so then simply getting into a position where it can dry out evenly should take care of the warp...

[Bruce Hooke]

Was the board warped like that when you bought it? (or was it shipped to you?) If it was not warped like that when you bought it then did you store it in a way that caused it to warp by making one side wetter than the other? If so then simply getting into a position where it can dry out evenly should take care of the warp...

[Bruce Hooke]

Was the board warped like that when you bought it? (or was it shipped to you?) If it was not warped like that when you bought it then did you store it in a way that caused it to warp by making one side wetter than the other? If so then simply getting into a position where it can dry out evenly should take care of the warp...

[Carlsboats]

Bruce Hooke --who also is here in Rhode Island
[I am over on Block Island]-- asks how the 8/4 teak got that way. It had a very slight concavity when I went to the lumberyard to pick it up. The yard guys offered to pass it through their planer real quickly (they have carbide knives). They took very little off each face. Then I strapped it with some other lumber and cartopped it to my shop. Less than a day later, the slight bend had become much more pronounced.
One possibility is that the cartopping aggrevated the problem --overnight moisture followed by a dry day and 60 mph transit. Another possibility: internal stress which did not appear as long as the teak was stacked in a pile at the lumberyard. Once relieved of the weight, and run through the planer, the stresses made their move.
I'll give it some more of the wet-one-side treatment, then slice it down the middle and see how manageable it gets.
Thanks to all who responded.

[Carlsboats]

Bruce Hooke --who also is here in Rhode Island
[I am over on Block Island]-- asks how the 8/4 teak got that way. It had a very slight concavity when I went to the lumberyard to pick it up. The yard guys offered to pass it through their planer real quickly (they have carbide knives). They took very little off each face. Then I strapped it with some other lumber and cartopped it to my shop. Less than a day later, the slight bend had become much more pronounced.
One possibility is that the cartopping aggrevated the problem --overnight moisture followed by a dry day and 60 mph transit. Another possibility: internal stress which did not appear as long as the teak was stacked in a pile at the lumberyard. Once relieved of the weight, and run through the planer, the stresses made their move.
I'll give it some more of the wet-one-side treatment, then slice it down the middle and see how manageable it gets.
Thanks to all who responded.

[Carlsboats]

Bruce Hooke --who also is here in Rhode Island
[I am over on Block Island]-- asks how the 8/4 teak got that way. It had a very slight concavity when I went to the lumberyard to pick it up. The yard guys offered to pass it through their planer real quickly (they have carbide knives). They took very little off each face. Then I strapped it with some other lumber and cartopped it to my shop. Less than a day later, the slight bend had become much more pronounced.
One possibility is that the cartopping aggrevated the problem --overnight moisture followed by a dry day and 60 mph transit. Another possibility: internal stress which did not appear as long as the teak was stacked in a pile at the lumberyard. Once relieved of the weight, and run through the planer, the stresses made their move.
I'll give it some more of the wet-one-side treatment, then slice it down the middle and see how manageable it gets.
Thanks to all who responded.

[Bob Cleek]

Frankly, knowing what 8/4 wide teak runs, I'd take it back to them, period. Tell them you want a flat plank. If it doesn't just pop back where it ought to be laying it out flat for a short while, it is an internal problem, I'd say. Teak doesn't soak up much moisture and is particularly stable. Forget steaming it, unless you are trying that with very thin stock. While you are at it, next time around, buy 8/4 offcuts and rip those up. You'll find it much, much cheaper than wide teak stock, and you won't be paying so much for sawdust when you rip. Teak these days doesn't come off the tree much wider than 12", so you paid top dollar for prime stock, albeit flawed.

[Bob Cleek]

Frankly, knowing what 8/4 wide teak runs, I'd take it back to them, period. Tell them you want a flat plank. If it doesn't just pop back where it ought to be laying it out flat for a short while, it is an internal problem, I'd say. Teak doesn't soak up much moisture and is particularly stable. Forget steaming it, unless you are trying that with very thin stock. While you are at it, next time around, buy 8/4 offcuts and rip those up. You'll find it much, much cheaper than wide teak stock, and you won't be paying so much for sawdust when you rip. Teak these days doesn't come off the tree much wider than 12", so you paid top dollar for prime stock, albeit flawed.

[Bob Cleek]

Frankly, knowing what 8/4 wide teak runs, I'd take it back to them, period. Tell them you want a flat plank. If it doesn't just pop back where it ought to be laying it out flat for a short while, it is an internal problem, I'd say. Teak doesn't soak up much moisture and is particularly stable. Forget steaming it, unless you are trying that with very thin stock. While you are at it, next time around, buy 8/4 offcuts and rip those up. You'll find it much, much cheaper than wide teak stock, and you won't be paying so much for sawdust when you rip. Teak these days doesn't come off the tree much wider than 12", so you paid top dollar for prime stock, albeit flawed.

[NormMessinger]

Another thought just to add to your, um, stress: When you rip off the strips there is no telling what way the strips will lay once the internal tentions are relieved. That could happen with a perfectly flat plank.

--Norm

[NormMessinger]

Another thought just to add to your, um, stress: When you rip off the strips there is no telling what way the strips will lay once the internal tentions are relieved. That could happen with a perfectly flat plank.

--Norm

[NormMessinger]

Another thought just to add to your, um, stress: When you rip off the strips there is no telling what way the strips will lay once the internal tentions are relieved. That could happen with a perfectly flat plank.

--Norm

[ken mcclure]

Chalk it up as a loss, and send it to me. I'll dispose of it with all the proper ceremony.

[ken mcclure]

Chalk it up as a loss, and send it to me. I'll dispose of it with all the proper ceremony.

[ken mcclure]

Chalk it up as a loss, and send it to me. I'll dispose of it with all the proper ceremony.