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Bob Perkins
10-13-2004, 01:14 PM
Hi Everyone,

I think I have bottom fairing and everything figured out now.

My new question is: Which bottom paint should I use?

Details:

Cold molded boat with epoxy bottom
Want hard/fast finish
Will spend most of its life on a trailer, maybe a week in water at most.
Antifouling not really a necessity.
Color - red
Should never see salt water.

You would think this was easy - but it has been elusive so far. I wanted to use Interlux 2 part poly - but Interlux recommended against that.

They recommended Fiberglass Bottomkote Aqua - No one sells it locally - still not sure if it is the paint I want..

Petit Tech support recommended something the local West Marine Guy said would be a waste of $$$ (side note: First time I ever had competent help at a West Store.. Big Surprise..)

Any recommendations from the group, especially stuff you have experience with..

Thanks.

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Regards,
Bob Perkins

My out of date site is at:
http://robert.perkins.home.comcast.net/

My Current project is at:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291051329
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[ 10-13-2004, 02:21 PM: Message edited by: Bob Perkins ]

bottompaint
10-13-2004, 02:28 PM
Use a "modified epoxy" type for a hard finish. You can actually "burnish" these paints with 320grit for a super smooth bottom. Since antifouling is NOT a major consideration.....use a cheaper paint with less copper. Trinidad by Petit,West Marine's brand,Interlux makes many.....they all market cheap, midquality and exspensive paints.

What is best depends upon many considerations such as, fresh water or salt, trailered or docked, warm water or cold, wiether the boat is hualed for 6 months of winter or not......ect.

Bottom paint is meant to be in the water. The modified epoxies will have more of a tendency to flake....especially if painted on epoxy. I use the Petit brand "no sand primer" on previously unpainted fiberglass or epoxy. It is an "etching" primer that the bottom paint adheres to better.

With your requirements.....use a cheaper house brand modified epoxy. Use the recommended "brushing liquid" to roll and tip...for a smoother finish.

[ 10-13-2004, 03:31 PM: Message edited by: bottompaint ]

RonW
10-13-2004, 03:17 PM
try this...

www.armorpoxy.com (http://www.armorpoxy.com)

I used it on a boat, it is tough.

sdowney717
10-18-2004, 04:48 PM
www.sanitred.com (http://www.sanitred.com)
Ok use sanitred permaflex, a polyurethane coating 100% waterproof. When it is wet, it feels slick like an oiled surface. I have used quite a bit of it so far and it goes on like thick stick paint. It harden to a glossy rubbery surface.

At the boat yard where I am restoring my wood cruiser, a fellow boater came over and saw me painting this permaflex on the hull. We got to talking about it and he told me his boss put it on the bottom of his boat several years ago. Now this boat is in the water all the time and is a fiberglass boat. Mike says he did it to prevent barnacles and seal the hull. And it has been 3 yrs and very few barnacles. Some one else emailed who read about this on this forum and is using this permaflex. He put a test piece in the water over the summer and only 2 barnacles grew on the board.

Kev Smyth
10-18-2004, 05:27 PM
It would be some work, but in many ways it could be the ultimate finish for your situation: Buy a couple pounds of powdered copper from progressiveepoxies.com, add it to a thin epoxy resin, then roll it on. If you want, you can sand it very smooth, or leave it with a lightly dimpled surface.

The resulting surface will be very hard and strong, take a lot of abbrassion, and soon mellow to a bronze/green color that is the ultimate "yachty" look. Worth checking out!

[ 10-18-2004, 06:28 PM: Message edited by: Kev Smyth ]

Wild Wassa
10-24-2004, 02:42 PM
Originally posted by Bob Perkins:
"Should never see salt water."

Very sad Skipper, my condolences.

"I wanted to use Interlux 2 part poly - but Interlux recommended against that."

Did they give you a reason?

On a boat (that is not in the water for long periods) I can't recommend a 2 pack water based polyurethane highly enough, except for one reason, you need skill (doing your dilutions, amongst others) to get the best out of the poly otherwise you could just be wasting your bucks and you might as well use a marine enamel as enamel is easier to apply.

W/b poly can give high quality for those who can apply it well. You will often read (from part-time painters) that poly is far too glossy for their liking. Then polish it so that you can't see the gloss only reflections ... on the hull.

If you want to kill the gloss on a w/b poly, dilute with thinner 'upto' the manufacturer's maximum, add a dash of Floetrol, it will turn gloss into a satin or semi-gloss (depending on the dilution % and quantity of Floetrol added).

Warren.

[ 10-24-2004, 07:01 PM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

Andrew Craig-Bennett
10-25-2004, 03:36 AM
A week afloat will be long enough for fouling to start - you will certainly get slime. But no more than that, in fresh, and it will scrub off easily, I think.

I used a "hard racing" antifouling on my dinghy, which lives on deck but may spend a week or so in the sea, and it seems OK.

Bob Perkins
10-25-2004, 07:17 AM
Thanks for the help everyone.

The problem has been solved.

I used Pettit Unepoxy Bottom paint. It is a hard finish good for trailering. The antifouling properties will go away with the boat not being kept in the water full time, but they are not a real concern to me. I suspect it will last for many years. You all were intrumental in finally finding the right product.

Warren: It won't see salt water because it is a lake boat, flat transom. The ocean would really beat us up smile.gif

Take Care,
Bob

Dan McCosh
10-25-2004, 01:17 PM
I guess you already bought it. I was about to mention Interlux fiberglass bottomcote is still made in the traditional copper-bronze color, which is lousy for algae, but looks neat and is relative hard, hence wears well.