Table and router saw table initial plans

[Wild Dingo]

Well Ive been considering buying a table saw and a router with table but then I got to wondering if I could build my own?... so tonight I got to drawing some preliminary sketches... now these are pretty preliminary in that its only rough but one could use steel for the top instead of laminated chipboard one could also machine some fences and such... but I havent gotten that far yet... all up about an hours thinking and a about 15 minutes sketching s few minutes typing the scant materials list and Ive ended up with this...

First a brief materials list...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/peb94c871e37179a53714cafefcddff9b/fc1abf19.jpg

second the table top layout

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p20e047ef54815c0ea837893188f9fb14/fc1abf16.jpg

then a side profile...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p7555751fb22e730cd4885dafbc4dc155/fc1abf12.jpg

then an end profile...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p12d7b3a62722210da933d5ba77172297/fc1abf0f.jpg

The overall length for the table saw with infeed and outfeed extentions down is 8' {standard sheet size} with the extentions out 12' 8" the in/outfeeds add an extra 28" in length each end plus 2' width at either end... am presently doodling with a panel cutting sled to fit... and I havent spent much time as yet with the router fitting as Im not to sure if Id want it fixed to the table as with the saw... being as I intended buying a new circular saw anyway cause the Matebo is just plain heavy I dont know that I would want to buy two routers... so will play around with that at a later date as with the power setup which I think will be a knee kicker... mmm its just hit me that Ive also not included anything for dust collection... mmmm maybe an under table unit of some discription with the intake coming up through the table outside the 2' mark and also being removable or drop down with a blank to fit the hole... then another idea would be to fit the kick stops to the long side instead of the short this allowing one to make the in/outfeeds a full 4' wide x 28" long... mmmm that would of course mean one would have to be on the long side to shut it off which could prove a problem with a long wide length... then again one could also get a leccy in to put two switches on the table giving one an added safety measure of a kick stop on either side?... okay more thunking to do I guess but then I did say it was preliminary.

Other thought was that it could be made smaller or larger as your boatshed area would allow thus a person with a smaller area could make this at 6' x 3' with slight adjustments which with the drop down extentions would effectively allow the user to increase the work area when needed... or scale it up for a larger area but for what Im thinking this would be pretty ideal.

sooo having not seen anything like this on the net anywhere... what say ye??

[Wild Dingo]

Well Ive been considering buying a table saw and a router with table but then I got to wondering if I could build my own?... so tonight I got to drawing some preliminary sketches... now these are pretty preliminary in that its only rough but one could use steel for the top instead of laminated chipboard one could also machine some fences and such... but I havent gotten that far yet... all up about an hours thinking and a about 15 minutes sketching s few minutes typing the scant materials list and Ive ended up with this...

First a brief materials list...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/peb94c871e37179a53714cafefcddff9b/fc1abf19.jpg

second the table top layout

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p20e047ef54815c0ea837893188f9fb14/fc1abf16.jpg

then a side profile...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p7555751fb22e730cd4885dafbc4dc155/fc1abf12.jpg

then an end profile...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p12d7b3a62722210da933d5ba77172297/fc1abf0f.jpg

The overall length for the table saw with infeed and outfeed extentions down is 8' {standard sheet size} with the extentions out 12' 8" the in/outfeeds add an extra 28" in length each end plus 2' width at either end... am presently doodling with a panel cutting sled to fit... and I havent spent much time as yet with the router fitting as Im not to sure if Id want it fixed to the table as with the saw... being as I intended buying a new circular saw anyway cause the Matebo is just plain heavy I dont know that I would want to buy two routers... so will play around with that at a later date as with the power setup which I think will be a knee kicker... mmm its just hit me that Ive also not included anything for dust collection... mmmm maybe an under table unit of some discription with the intake coming up through the table outside the 2' mark and also being removable or drop down with a blank to fit the hole... then another idea would be to fit the kick stops to the long side instead of the short this allowing one to make the in/outfeeds a full 4' wide x 28" long... mmmm that would of course mean one would have to be on the long side to shut it off which could prove a problem with a long wide length... then again one could also get a leccy in to put two switches on the table giving one an added safety measure of a kick stop on either side?... okay more thunking to do I guess but then I did say it was preliminary.

Other thought was that it could be made smaller or larger as your boatshed area would allow thus a person with a smaller area could make this at 6' x 3' with slight adjustments which with the drop down extentions would effectively allow the user to increase the work area when needed... or scale it up for a larger area but for what Im thinking this would be pretty ideal.

sooo having not seen anything like this on the net anywhere... what say ye??

[Wild Dingo]

Well Ive been considering buying a table saw and a router with table but then I got to wondering if I could build my own?... so tonight I got to drawing some preliminary sketches... now these are pretty preliminary in that its only rough but one could use steel for the top instead of laminated chipboard one could also machine some fences and such... but I havent gotten that far yet... all up about an hours thinking and a about 15 minutes sketching s few minutes typing the scant materials list and Ive ended up with this...

First a brief materials list...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/peb94c871e37179a53714cafefcddff9b/fc1abf19.jpg

second the table top layout

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p20e047ef54815c0ea837893188f9fb14/fc1abf16.jpg

then a side profile...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p7555751fb22e730cd4885dafbc4dc155/fc1abf12.jpg

then an end profile...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid63/p12d7b3a62722210da933d5ba77172297/fc1abf0f.jpg

The overall length for the table saw with infeed and outfeed extentions down is 8' {standard sheet size} with the extentions out 12' 8" the in/outfeeds add an extra 28" in length each end plus 2' width at either end... am presently doodling with a panel cutting sled to fit... and I havent spent much time as yet with the router fitting as Im not to sure if Id want it fixed to the table as with the saw... being as I intended buying a new circular saw anyway cause the Matebo is just plain heavy I dont know that I would want to buy two routers... so will play around with that at a later date as with the power setup which I think will be a knee kicker... mmm its just hit me that Ive also not included anything for dust collection... mmmm maybe an under table unit of some discription with the intake coming up through the table outside the 2' mark and also being removable or drop down with a blank to fit the hole... then another idea would be to fit the kick stops to the long side instead of the short this allowing one to make the in/outfeeds a full 4' wide x 28" long... mmmm that would of course mean one would have to be on the long side to shut it off which could prove a problem with a long wide length... then again one could also get a leccy in to put two switches on the table giving one an added safety measure of a kick stop on either side?... okay more thunking to do I guess but then I did say it was preliminary.

Other thought was that it could be made smaller or larger as your boatshed area would allow thus a person with a smaller area could make this at 6' x 3' with slight adjustments which with the drop down extentions would effectively allow the user to increase the work area when needed... or scale it up for a larger area but for what Im thinking this would be pretty ideal.

sooo having not seen anything like this on the net anywhere... what say ye??

[Cosmo Lengro]

I'd say you are re-inventing the wheel there Dingo.
Just do a Google search or go to the web sites of Fine Woodworking, American Woodworker, Woodsmith, and the Brit woodworking mags too. No woodworking mags in OZ? You will find all sorts of well worked out iterations of your plans.
Cross Cut Sleds-Rip Fence clones of the Biesmeyer type-Router Table add-ons all with full drawings.
I,me, wouldn't use chipboard for a top. Something denser say mediumdensityfiberboard with high pressure laminate glued to both sides and super well braced might be a better choice.
All is out there just spend some time looking.
And as Dave Flemming is always saying, get on usenet to the rec.woodworking newsgroup or use that News Group search funtion in Google to acess previous news group posts about these things.
;)

[Cosmo Lengro]

I'd say you are re-inventing the wheel there Dingo.
Just do a Google search or go to the web sites of Fine Woodworking, American Woodworker, Woodsmith, and the Brit woodworking mags too. No woodworking mags in OZ? You will find all sorts of well worked out iterations of your plans.
Cross Cut Sleds-Rip Fence clones of the Biesmeyer type-Router Table add-ons all with full drawings.
I,me, wouldn't use chipboard for a top. Something denser say mediumdensityfiberboard with high pressure laminate glued to both sides and super well braced might be a better choice.
All is out there just spend some time looking.
And as Dave Flemming is always saying, get on usenet to the rec.woodworking newsgroup or use that News Group search funtion in Google to acess previous news group posts about these things.
;)

[Cosmo Lengro]

I'd say you are re-inventing the wheel there Dingo.
Just do a Google search or go to the web sites of Fine Woodworking, American Woodworker, Woodsmith, and the Brit woodworking mags too. No woodworking mags in OZ? You will find all sorts of well worked out iterations of your plans.
Cross Cut Sleds-Rip Fence clones of the Biesmeyer type-Router Table add-ons all with full drawings.
I,me, wouldn't use chipboard for a top. Something denser say mediumdensityfiberboard with high pressure laminate glued to both sides and super well braced might be a better choice.
All is out there just spend some time looking.
And as Dave Flemming is always saying, get on usenet to the rec.woodworking newsgroup or use that News Group search funtion in Google to acess previous news group posts about these things.
;)

[Wild Dingo]

Gidday Cosmo

Well mate I actually spent a bit of time before starting the scratch work above looking around the net but failed to find anything even remotely similar... many many work benches of various types but nothing along these lines... hence the drawings.

But!!... I havent lost much if they are out there... nothing ventured nothing gained sorta thing... I would like to have a gander at something like it if it is... but as I said I havent been able to find anything and part of the idea of throwing it up here was that hopefully someone would say as you have and toss up a couple of things for me to look at.

The chipboard idea was the first thing of the top of my head MDF would probably be a better choice indeed... steel even better I guess

I dont think its a waste of time or reinventing the wheel mate... kinda fun actually and it did give me one response that told me that its actually been done before... eerr somewhere! ;)

eeerr call me dense if you like mate... but I still havent figured out how one gets onto this usenet thing everyone seems to rave about!

[ 05-21-2003, 09:36 PM: Message edited by: Wild Dingo ]

[Wild Dingo]

Gidday Cosmo

Well mate I actually spent a bit of time before starting the scratch work above looking around the net but failed to find anything even remotely similar... many many work benches of various types but nothing along these lines... hence the drawings.

But!!... I havent lost much if they are out there... nothing ventured nothing gained sorta thing... I would like to have a gander at something like it if it is... but as I said I havent been able to find anything and part of the idea of throwing it up here was that hopefully someone would say as you have and toss up a couple of things for me to look at.

The chipboard idea was the first thing of the top of my head MDF would probably be a better choice indeed... steel even better I guess

I dont think its a waste of time or reinventing the wheel mate... kinda fun actually and it did give me one response that told me that its actually been done before... eerr somewhere! ;)

eeerr call me dense if you like mate... but I still havent figured out how one gets onto this usenet thing everyone seems to rave about!

[ 05-21-2003, 09:36 PM: Message edited by: Wild Dingo ]

[Wild Dingo]

Gidday Cosmo

Well mate I actually spent a bit of time before starting the scratch work above looking around the net but failed to find anything even remotely similar... many many work benches of various types but nothing along these lines... hence the drawings.

But!!... I havent lost much if they are out there... nothing ventured nothing gained sorta thing... I would like to have a gander at something like it if it is... but as I said I havent been able to find anything and part of the idea of throwing it up here was that hopefully someone would say as you have and toss up a couple of things for me to look at.

The chipboard idea was the first thing of the top of my head MDF would probably be a better choice indeed... steel even better I guess

I dont think its a waste of time or reinventing the wheel mate... kinda fun actually and it did give me one response that told me that its actually been done before... eerr somewhere! ;)

eeerr call me dense if you like mate... but I still havent figured out how one gets onto this usenet thing everyone seems to rave about!

[ 05-21-2003, 09:36 PM: Message edited by: Wild Dingo ]

[Barry]

Dingo:

Kits for building woodworking tools.

This company is still around and supplying parts. Here is their contact information, current as of September 2002 (they do not have a web site):

Gilliom Manufacturing Inc.
500 Boonslick Rd.
St. Charles, MO
(636)724-1812

Products:

14", 18" bandsaws, 6" sander, lathe, drill press, shaper, 10" tablesaw.


Some good advice and tips on home built table saw,router/shaper in Binghams's Book. ALso A BAnd Saw. fun stuff.
Just FYI.

Boat Joinery and Cabinetmaking Simplified
Fred P. Bingham
Boats have few straight lines, which makes building and equipping them a woodworking challenge. This handbook explains what to do. Includes shop drawings, construction details, and technical advice. A thorough and comprehensive volume.

$24.95

290 pgs, 7 x 9, b&w, softcover

Barry

[Barry]

Dingo:

Kits for building woodworking tools.

This company is still around and supplying parts. Here is their contact information, current as of September 2002 (they do not have a web site):

Gilliom Manufacturing Inc.
500 Boonslick Rd.
St. Charles, MO
(636)724-1812

Products:

14", 18" bandsaws, 6" sander, lathe, drill press, shaper, 10" tablesaw.


Some good advice and tips on home built table saw,router/shaper in Binghams's Book. ALso A BAnd Saw. fun stuff.
Just FYI.

Boat Joinery and Cabinetmaking Simplified
Fred P. Bingham
Boats have few straight lines, which makes building and equipping them a woodworking challenge. This handbook explains what to do. Includes shop drawings, construction details, and technical advice. A thorough and comprehensive volume.

$24.95

290 pgs, 7 x 9, b&w, softcover

Barry

[Barry]

Dingo:

Kits for building woodworking tools.

This company is still around and supplying parts. Here is their contact information, current as of September 2002 (they do not have a web site):

Gilliom Manufacturing Inc.
500 Boonslick Rd.
St. Charles, MO
(636)724-1812

Products:

14", 18" bandsaws, 6" sander, lathe, drill press, shaper, 10" tablesaw.


Some good advice and tips on home built table saw,router/shaper in Binghams's Book. ALso A BAnd Saw. fun stuff.
Just FYI.

Boat Joinery and Cabinetmaking Simplified
Fred P. Bingham
Boats have few straight lines, which makes building and equipping them a woodworking challenge. This handbook explains what to do. Includes shop drawings, construction details, and technical advice. A thorough and comprehensive volume.

$24.95

290 pgs, 7 x 9, b&w, softcover

Barry

[Wild Dingo]

That book by Bingham "Also a bandsaw" looks interesting... will hunt up the local library tentatively disbelieving but able to be pleasantly surprised that they will have it!

Does that company have a catalogue available do you know? Will drop them a line and see whats what

Thanks mate :cool:

[Wild Dingo]

That book by Bingham "Also a bandsaw" looks interesting... will hunt up the local library tentatively disbelieving but able to be pleasantly surprised that they will have it!

Does that company have a catalogue available do you know? Will drop them a line and see whats what

Thanks mate :cool:

[Wild Dingo]

That book by Bingham "Also a bandsaw" looks interesting... will hunt up the local library tentatively disbelieving but able to be pleasantly surprised that they will have it!

Does that company have a catalogue available do you know? Will drop them a line and see whats what

Thanks mate :cool:

[Cosmo Lengro]

Gilliom kit are ok but they are awfully crude.
If you are starting from scratch and making a table saw then you will need a saw arbor or motorized mandrel, a motor, belts or belts, saw collar or collars machined dead flat a way of hanging the arbor and attaching the motor and raising the blade to start with.
Fine Woodworking the US magazine had a book of shop built machinery including a table saw a jointer a bandsaw and router table might contact them for a copy.

[Cosmo Lengro]

Gilliom kit are ok but they are awfully crude.
If you are starting from scratch and making a table saw then you will need a saw arbor or motorized mandrel, a motor, belts or belts, saw collar or collars machined dead flat a way of hanging the arbor and attaching the motor and raising the blade to start with.
Fine Woodworking the US magazine had a book of shop built machinery including a table saw a jointer a bandsaw and router table might contact them for a copy.

[Cosmo Lengro]

Gilliom kit are ok but they are awfully crude.
If you are starting from scratch and making a table saw then you will need a saw arbor or motorized mandrel, a motor, belts or belts, saw collar or collars machined dead flat a way of hanging the arbor and attaching the motor and raising the blade to start with.
Fine Woodworking the US magazine had a book of shop built machinery including a table saw a jointer a bandsaw and router table might contact them for a copy.

[Jerry Sousa]

Shane, I have Bingham's book "Boat Joinery & Cabinetmaking Simplified" too. It's a must have.

Another excellent book on general woodworking is "Woodwork in Theory and Practice" by John A. Walton. He was a "Manual Arts Teacher" at Canberra High School in the middle of the last century. Good section on Australian woods there as well. I have two copies of it!

Most shop fitters out here make up their own saw tables from plywood with a 10" circular saw bolted from below. Some have sliding tops too. No need to buy a new saw as it will be under a table and out of view. Buy some rusty old thing, clean it up, paint the base even, then attach it to the top. With the thickness of your wood you might need a 14" saw. That black formica thing (is that MDF, whatsit stand for?) would make a nice frictionless surface. With the long heavy boards that you've got to rip Shane, would rollers on the tables be helpful?

[ 05-22-2003, 02:00 AM: Message edited by: Jerry Sousa ]

[Jerry Sousa]

Shane, I have Bingham's book "Boat Joinery & Cabinetmaking Simplified" too. It's a must have.

Another excellent book on general woodworking is "Woodwork in Theory and Practice" by John A. Walton. He was a "Manual Arts Teacher" at Canberra High School in the middle of the last century. Good section on Australian woods there as well. I have two copies of it!

Most shop fitters out here make up their own saw tables from plywood with a 10" circular saw bolted from below. Some have sliding tops too. No need to buy a new saw as it will be under a table and out of view. Buy some rusty old thing, clean it up, paint the base even, then attach it to the top. With the thickness of your wood you might need a 14" saw. That black formica thing (is that MDF, whatsit stand for?) would make a nice frictionless surface. With the long heavy boards that you've got to rip Shane, would rollers on the tables be helpful?

[ 05-22-2003, 02:00 AM: Message edited by: Jerry Sousa ]

[Jerry Sousa]

Shane, I have Bingham's book "Boat Joinery & Cabinetmaking Simplified" too. It's a must have.

Another excellent book on general woodworking is "Woodwork in Theory and Practice" by John A. Walton. He was a "Manual Arts Teacher" at Canberra High School in the middle of the last century. Good section on Australian woods there as well. I have two copies of it!

Most shop fitters out here make up their own saw tables from plywood with a 10" circular saw bolted from below. Some have sliding tops too. No need to buy a new saw as it will be under a table and out of view. Buy some rusty old thing, clean it up, paint the base even, then attach it to the top. With the thickness of your wood you might need a 14" saw. That black formica thing (is that MDF, whatsit stand for?) would make a nice frictionless surface. With the long heavy boards that you've got to rip Shane, would rollers on the tables be helpful?

[ 05-22-2003, 02:00 AM: Message edited by: Jerry Sousa ]

[Wild Dingo]

Gidday again Cosmo
Thanks for your comments mate... I will hunt up that fine woodworker mob and see what I can find out... I think your a bit ahead of me with the intent mate... Im thinking what Jerrys talking about not building a major table saw from scratch... although the thought is intregueing

I already have a heavy Matebo 10" circular saw its this that I was intending of using the way Jerry suggests clearer than I did... with it bolting under the table removable by dropping down on say some sort of frame setup so it drops far enough to clear the table surface by say 1/4" a drop in insert then goes over the now open hole thereby allowing one full use of the table surface without the saw being in the way...

And Jerry I would just find myself a smaller more easily manouvered circular saw for those quick jobs that the Matebo does so very well just that lugging it around is a pain... its been a flamin brilliant saw absolute dream but it is heavy if you have more than a couple of cuts to make.

On the MDF... "Medium Density Fibreboard" I believe it stands for although I could be wrong as Ive been known to be at times :rolleyes:

I was thinking a smooth surface which the laminate {I was thinking white for ease of layout marking and such} would give... and in the materials were talking be easily replaced when needs be... well far easier than a solid 1/2 > 3/4 inch timber top would be...

Rollers would probably be a sound idea although Id have to rethink the in/outfeed tables a bit no biggie but still more food for thought... simple solid timber stiles affair with rollers along its length would be simplest... I was thinking perhaps for most purposes {without taking this heavy Tuart out the front into account} that one could slide the timber around quite easily on the laminate surface without the need for rollers... although with heavy stuff such as the Tuart it would probably be a worthwhile investment.

I will have a go at finding that book by Walton Jerry and let you know how I get on... I can see the book list is growing as fast as the tool list! :D

I will need to look at fences and such as I move along with this... make my own or store bought? mmmm more food for thought.

Thanks fellas! keep the thoughts and ideas flowing! :cool:

[Wild Dingo]

Gidday again Cosmo
Thanks for your comments mate... I will hunt up that fine woodworker mob and see what I can find out... I think your a bit ahead of me with the intent mate... Im thinking what Jerrys talking about not building a major table saw from scratch... although the thought is intregueing

I already have a heavy Matebo 10" circular saw its this that I was intending of using the way Jerry suggests clearer than I did... with it bolting under the table removable by dropping down on say some sort of frame setup so it drops far enough to clear the table surface by say 1/4" a drop in insert then goes over the now open hole thereby allowing one full use of the table surface without the saw being in the way...

And Jerry I would just find myself a smaller more easily manouvered circular saw for those quick jobs that the Matebo does so very well just that lugging it around is a pain... its been a flamin brilliant saw absolute dream but it is heavy if you have more than a couple of cuts to make.

On the MDF... "Medium Density Fibreboard" I believe it stands for although I could be wrong as Ive been known to be at times :rolleyes:

I was thinking a smooth surface which the laminate {I was thinking white for ease of layout marking and such} would give... and in the materials were talking be easily replaced when needs be... well far easier than a solid 1/2 > 3/4 inch timber top would be...

Rollers would probably be a sound idea although Id have to rethink the in/outfeed tables a bit no biggie but still more food for thought... simple solid timber stiles affair with rollers along its length would be simplest... I was thinking perhaps for most purposes {without taking this heavy Tuart out the front into account} that one could slide the timber around quite easily on the laminate surface without the need for rollers... although with heavy stuff such as the Tuart it would probably be a worthwhile investment.

I will have a go at finding that book by Walton Jerry and let you know how I get on... I can see the book list is growing as fast as the tool list! :D

I will need to look at fences and such as I move along with this... make my own or store bought? mmmm more food for thought.

Thanks fellas! keep the thoughts and ideas flowing! :cool:

[Wild Dingo]

Gidday again Cosmo
Thanks for your comments mate... I will hunt up that fine woodworker mob and see what I can find out... I think your a bit ahead of me with the intent mate... Im thinking what Jerrys talking about not building a major table saw from scratch... although the thought is intregueing

I already have a heavy Matebo 10" circular saw its this that I was intending of using the way Jerry suggests clearer than I did... with it bolting under the table removable by dropping down on say some sort of frame setup so it drops far enough to clear the table surface by say 1/4" a drop in insert then goes over the now open hole thereby allowing one full use of the table surface without the saw being in the way...

And Jerry I would just find myself a smaller more easily manouvered circular saw for those quick jobs that the Matebo does so very well just that lugging it around is a pain... its been a flamin brilliant saw absolute dream but it is heavy if you have more than a couple of cuts to make.

On the MDF... "Medium Density Fibreboard" I believe it stands for although I could be wrong as Ive been known to be at times :rolleyes:

I was thinking a smooth surface which the laminate {I was thinking white for ease of layout marking and such} would give... and in the materials were talking be easily replaced when needs be... well far easier than a solid 1/2 > 3/4 inch timber top would be...

Rollers would probably be a sound idea although Id have to rethink the in/outfeed tables a bit no biggie but still more food for thought... simple solid timber stiles affair with rollers along its length would be simplest... I was thinking perhaps for most purposes {without taking this heavy Tuart out the front into account} that one could slide the timber around quite easily on the laminate surface without the need for rollers... although with heavy stuff such as the Tuart it would probably be a worthwhile investment.

I will have a go at finding that book by Walton Jerry and let you know how I get on... I can see the book list is growing as fast as the tool list! :D

I will need to look at fences and such as I move along with this... make my own or store bought? mmmm more food for thought.

Thanks fellas! keep the thoughts and ideas flowing! :cool:

[Sailing-Randy]

Alright Shane, take a look at Fine Woodworking on Making and Modifying Machines, Taunton Press, my copy says 1986. I don’t know if they printed more editions or not-suspect not.

On pages 12-17 they have plans for “A Wooden Tablesaw: an attractive, shopmade alternative to cast iron”
The last paragraph reads:
The machine described here has been in use at the time of this writing for 2½ years at the Iowa State University woodworking shop, a high-abuse place if ever there was one. So far, it has required only routine cleaning and lubrication, plus an occasional tightening of the arbor mounting bolts. In our shop we have two other saws, a 10” Rockwell Unisaw and a 14”, 5 hp Oliver. Often these two machines sit idle while students wait in line to use the wooden saw. They say its smoothness of operation, its adaptability to jig-work and its amiable disposition make it a more pleasant tool to use.”

See if you can get a copy of the book, or maybe I could send photo copies.

[Sailing-Randy]

Alright Shane, take a look at Fine Woodworking on Making and Modifying Machines, Taunton Press, my copy says 1986. I don’t know if they printed more editions or not-suspect not.

On pages 12-17 they have plans for “A Wooden Tablesaw: an attractive, shopmade alternative to cast iron”
The last paragraph reads:
The machine described here has been in use at the time of this writing for 2½ years at the Iowa State University woodworking shop, a high-abuse place if ever there was one. So far, it has required only routine cleaning and lubrication, plus an occasional tightening of the arbor mounting bolts. In our shop we have two other saws, a 10” Rockwell Unisaw and a 14”, 5 hp Oliver. Often these two machines sit idle while students wait in line to use the wooden saw. They say its smoothness of operation, its adaptability to jig-work and its amiable disposition make it a more pleasant tool to use.”

See if you can get a copy of the book, or maybe I could send photo copies.

[Sailing-Randy]

Alright Shane, take a look at Fine Woodworking on Making and Modifying Machines, Taunton Press, my copy says 1986. I don’t know if they printed more editions or not-suspect not.

On pages 12-17 they have plans for “A Wooden Tablesaw: an attractive, shopmade alternative to cast iron”
The last paragraph reads:
The machine described here has been in use at the time of this writing for 2½ years at the Iowa State University woodworking shop, a high-abuse place if ever there was one. So far, it has required only routine cleaning and lubrication, plus an occasional tightening of the arbor mounting bolts. In our shop we have two other saws, a 10” Rockwell Unisaw and a 14”, 5 hp Oliver. Often these two machines sit idle while students wait in line to use the wooden saw. They say its smoothness of operation, its adaptability to jig-work and its amiable disposition make it a more pleasant tool to use.”

See if you can get a copy of the book, or maybe I could send photo copies.