oar lock/ oar crutches

[Fr. Pat]

I am looking for oar locks that have a 1/2 to 3/4 shoulder on the shank. Does anyone know where I can find some of these. I have checked many main stream catalogues and on-line places but to no avail. I am trying to fix a building mistake that we made. We uses side mount sockets that are built into the inwale of the gunnel but the problem is that the angle of the oar stroke makes it hit the outwale and bounce out. THe best thing would be an oar lock that is round to capture the oar and have a shoulder to lift the oar up off the gunnel.

Any help would be very apreciated - you do not know real frustration until you row a boat out of a busy marina and your oars jump out every third stroke!! :mad:

[Fr. Pat]

I am looking for oar locks that have a 1/2 to 3/4 shoulder on the shank. Does anyone know where I can find some of these. I have checked many main stream catalogues and on-line places but to no avail. I am trying to fix a building mistake that we made. We uses side mount sockets that are built into the inwale of the gunnel but the problem is that the angle of the oar stroke makes it hit the outwale and bounce out. THe best thing would be an oar lock that is round to capture the oar and have a shoulder to lift the oar up off the gunnel.

Any help would be very apreciated - you do not know real frustration until you row a boat out of a busy marina and your oars jump out every third stroke!! :mad:

[Fr. Pat]

I am looking for oar locks that have a 1/2 to 3/4 shoulder on the shank. Does anyone know where I can find some of these. I have checked many main stream catalogues and on-line places but to no avail. I am trying to fix a building mistake that we made. We uses side mount sockets that are built into the inwale of the gunnel but the problem is that the angle of the oar stroke makes it hit the outwale and bounce out. THe best thing would be an oar lock that is round to capture the oar and have a shoulder to lift the oar up off the gunnel.

Any help would be very apreciated - you do not know real frustration until you row a boat out of a busy marina and your oars jump out every third stroke!! :mad:

[Ian McColgin]

I doubt that you'll find it off the shelf but this is nothing that the average balck smith (if iron) or foundry (if bronze) could not make. It really amounts to a lengthend shaft with, as you put it, a bit of a bushing to keep the oar lock higher than the socket.

I'm deeply prejudiced against round oar locks. They don't hold the oar in place - the whole oar lock will just lift out and then you're trying to get a little shaft in the hole rather than droping the oar in a nice proper open top rowlock.

G'luck

[Ian McColgin]

I doubt that you'll find it off the shelf but this is nothing that the average balck smith (if iron) or foundry (if bronze) could not make. It really amounts to a lengthend shaft with, as you put it, a bit of a bushing to keep the oar lock higher than the socket.

I'm deeply prejudiced against round oar locks. They don't hold the oar in place - the whole oar lock will just lift out and then you're trying to get a little shaft in the hole rather than droping the oar in a nice proper open top rowlock.

G'luck

[Ian McColgin]

I doubt that you'll find it off the shelf but this is nothing that the average balck smith (if iron) or foundry (if bronze) could not make. It really amounts to a lengthend shaft with, as you put it, a bit of a bushing to keep the oar lock higher than the socket.

I'm deeply prejudiced against round oar locks. They don't hold the oar in place - the whole oar lock will just lift out and then you're trying to get a little shaft in the hole rather than droping the oar in a nice proper open top rowlock.

G'luck

[Paul Scheuer]

The obvious would be a washer-like spacer over the shank. If it's so high that the shank is loose or the strength compromised, the next would be a cylindrical insert with a shoulder on top. You might be able to add a pad for the side mounts. It could extend down to cover the existing mounting holes. (We'd be the only ones that would ever know ;) ).

[Paul Scheuer]

The obvious would be a washer-like spacer over the shank. If it's so high that the shank is loose or the strength compromised, the next would be a cylindrical insert with a shoulder on top. You might be able to add a pad for the side mounts. It could extend down to cover the existing mounting holes. (We'd be the only ones that would ever know ;) ).

[Paul Scheuer]

The obvious would be a washer-like spacer over the shank. If it's so high that the shank is loose or the strength compromised, the next would be a cylindrical insert with a shoulder on top. You might be able to add a pad for the side mounts. It could extend down to cover the existing mounting holes. (We'd be the only ones that would ever know ;) ).

[videoguy]

Fr take a look at the raised up oar lock pads on one of the shark river dory's I build would some thing like this help your problem http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid10/p618d8a5c8fa0b0af88051249cacec85a/fe08adf3.jpg......Phil

[videoguy]

Fr take a look at the raised up oar lock pads on one of the shark river dory's I build would some thing like this help your problem http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid10/p618d8a5c8fa0b0af88051249cacec85a/fe08adf3.jpg......Phil

[videoguy]

Fr take a look at the raised up oar lock pads on one of the shark river dory's I build would some thing like this help your problem http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid10/p618d8a5c8fa0b0af88051249cacec85a/fe08adf3.jpg......Phil

[PaulC]

Fr.
Would it help to pin the oar lock shaft in place, at its base, once it is in the oarlock socket.

On the other hand, a thole pin might be an expedient answer too.

[PaulC]

Fr.
Would it help to pin the oar lock shaft in place, at its base, once it is in the oarlock socket.

On the other hand, a thole pin might be an expedient answer too.

[PaulC]

Fr.
Would it help to pin the oar lock shaft in place, at its base, once it is in the oarlock socket.

On the other hand, a thole pin might be an expedient answer too.

[Paul Reagan]

Generally speaking, if an oar pops up out of the oarlock, the problem is not the hardware, but rather the length of the oar. Measure the span (athwartships distance from oarlock to oarlock);divide by two; add 2"; multiply by 25; divide by 7. This will give you a ratio of 7 parts inboard to 18 parts outboard or a 7:18 leverage ratio. If you aren't pretty close to this ratio, the oars will pop out of the locks.

[Paul Reagan]

Generally speaking, if an oar pops up out of the oarlock, the problem is not the hardware, but rather the length of the oar. Measure the span (athwartships distance from oarlock to oarlock);divide by two; add 2"; multiply by 25; divide by 7. This will give you a ratio of 7 parts inboard to 18 parts outboard or a 7:18 leverage ratio. If you aren't pretty close to this ratio, the oars will pop out of the locks.

[Paul Reagan]

Generally speaking, if an oar pops up out of the oarlock, the problem is not the hardware, but rather the length of the oar. Measure the span (athwartships distance from oarlock to oarlock);divide by two; add 2"; multiply by 25; divide by 7. This will give you a ratio of 7 parts inboard to 18 parts outboard or a 7:18 leverage ratio. If you aren't pretty close to this ratio, the oars will pop out of the locks.

[nevrdun]

Oarlocks? Goto -

http://www.openwater.com/Boatshow/oarlock_special_report/oarlocks.htm

Nevrdun

[nevrdun]

Oarlocks? Goto -

http://www.openwater.com/Boatshow/oarlock_special_report/oarlocks.htm

Nevrdun

[nevrdun]

Oarlocks? Goto -

http://www.openwater.com/Boatshow/oarlock_special_report/oarlocks.htm

Nevrdun