Cordless drills

[Meerkat]

I hear Roybie is to stay away from, but after that, i'm a bit lost. Apart from brand, the key spec seems to be battery voltage. 7.6V seems to be adequate for putting the kid's toys together on xmas eve and hanging pictures in the living room, but little else? What's the sweet spot between cost and voltage? Best brand(s)? I'm looking for something that will do housework ( ;) ), but will also come out to the boat shed in the future.

[Meerkat]

I hear Roybie is to stay away from, but after that, i'm a bit lost. Apart from brand, the key spec seems to be battery voltage. 7.6V seems to be adequate for putting the kid's toys together on xmas eve and hanging pictures in the living room, but little else? What's the sweet spot between cost and voltage? Best brand(s)? I'm looking for something that will do housework ( ;) ), but will also come out to the boat shed in the future.

[Meerkat]

I hear Roybie is to stay away from, but after that, i'm a bit lost. Apart from brand, the key spec seems to be battery voltage. 7.6V seems to be adequate for putting the kid's toys together on xmas eve and hanging pictures in the living room, but little else? What's the sweet spot between cost and voltage? Best brand(s)? I'm looking for something that will do housework ( ;) ), but will also come out to the boat shed in the future.

[Barnacle Pete]

Why stay away fromn Ryobi? I used to own a bosch at 9.6 v. I looked around and found the best at the best price was a 14.4 v from sears that is supposedly made by ryobi-came with 2 batteries for $50. Been using it professionally for over 6 months-works as well or better than my old bosch at less than 1/3 the price-I've even given it a couple of drop tests.

[Barnacle Pete]

Why stay away fromn Ryobi? I used to own a bosch at 9.6 v. I looked around and found the best at the best price was a 14.4 v from sears that is supposedly made by ryobi-came with 2 batteries for $50. Been using it professionally for over 6 months-works as well or better than my old bosch at less than 1/3 the price-I've even given it a couple of drop tests.

[Barnacle Pete]

Why stay away fromn Ryobi? I used to own a bosch at 9.6 v. I looked around and found the best at the best price was a 14.4 v from sears that is supposedly made by ryobi-came with 2 batteries for $50. Been using it professionally for over 6 months-works as well or better than my old bosch at less than 1/3 the price-I've even given it a couple of drop tests.

[High C]

I've owned several, a Bosch 9.6, a Ryobi 12, and a B+D 18, one of the new orange ones.

They were all good tools, and abandoned only because the batteries died, and new batteries cost as much as a new drill. The Ryobi was AOK, no problems with any of them.

[High C]

I've owned several, a Bosch 9.6, a Ryobi 12, and a B+D 18, one of the new orange ones.

They were all good tools, and abandoned only because the batteries died, and new batteries cost as much as a new drill. The Ryobi was AOK, no problems with any of them.

[High C]

I've owned several, a Bosch 9.6, a Ryobi 12, and a B+D 18, one of the new orange ones.

They were all good tools, and abandoned only because the batteries died, and new batteries cost as much as a new drill. The Ryobi was AOK, no problems with any of them.

[riverboathank]

A word of warning, don't just buy a cordless based on voltage. All 18 volt batteries are not created equal, check the amperage rating. I was given a 18 volt, made in China brand and it won't outpreform my 9.6 Makita. I'm embarassed to take on the job site with me. I've since purchased a 14.4 Makita, and it's a real workhorse, works as well as the larger volt Bosch. Skil, Milwaukee etc., all good tools but Makita has always served me well. Battery life is a problem with all of them cost wise. Don't wait till the battery is flat before recharging, slip them in regularly and you'll extend life quite a bit.
Regards, Hank

[riverboathank]

A word of warning, don't just buy a cordless based on voltage. All 18 volt batteries are not created equal, check the amperage rating. I was given a 18 volt, made in China brand and it won't outpreform my 9.6 Makita. I'm embarassed to take on the job site with me. I've since purchased a 14.4 Makita, and it's a real workhorse, works as well as the larger volt Bosch. Skil, Milwaukee etc., all good tools but Makita has always served me well. Battery life is a problem with all of them cost wise. Don't wait till the battery is flat before recharging, slip them in regularly and you'll extend life quite a bit.
Regards, Hank

[riverboathank]

A word of warning, don't just buy a cordless based on voltage. All 18 volt batteries are not created equal, check the amperage rating. I was given a 18 volt, made in China brand and it won't outpreform my 9.6 Makita. I'm embarassed to take on the job site with me. I've since purchased a 14.4 Makita, and it's a real workhorse, works as well as the larger volt Bosch. Skil, Milwaukee etc., all good tools but Makita has always served me well. Battery life is a problem with all of them cost wise. Don't wait till the battery is flat before recharging, slip them in regularly and you'll extend life quite a bit.
Regards, Hank

[cs]

My Cordless drill is the 14.4 Porter and it is fantastic.

Chad

[cs]

My Cordless drill is the 14.4 Porter and it is fantastic.

Chad

[cs]

My Cordless drill is the 14.4 Porter and it is fantastic.

Chad

[LisaS]

My cordless is also the Porter and 14.4 and has my thumbs up.

Lisa

[LisaS]

My cordless is also the Porter and 14.4 and has my thumbs up.

Lisa

[LisaS]

My cordless is also the Porter and 14.4 and has my thumbs up.

Lisa

[Mrleft8]

I like the DeWalt 9.6 It has plenty of power, it's light, well balanced, and not so big that you feel like you're working with a hammer drill. It is a little slow for drilling gazillions of holes, but I still use it for site work over my corded drill unless I KNOW I have a million holes to drill.

[Mrleft8]

I like the DeWalt 9.6 It has plenty of power, it's light, well balanced, and not so big that you feel like you're working with a hammer drill. It is a little slow for drilling gazillions of holes, but I still use it for site work over my corded drill unless I KNOW I have a million holes to drill.

[Mrleft8]

I like the DeWalt 9.6 It has plenty of power, it's light, well balanced, and not so big that you feel like you're working with a hammer drill. It is a little slow for drilling gazillions of holes, but I still use it for site work over my corded drill unless I KNOW I have a million holes to drill.

[Pagie]

I have a14v cheepo from china, a14v bosch from switerland, a 18 v from ryobie.with two batteries. they all work well and are better than getting tangled up in leads. I had for years ( about 15) a 9.6 from ryobie but the battery finally died. you cant have too many. Get the best you can afford, you can't have too many drills.

[Pagie]

I have a14v cheepo from china, a14v bosch from switerland, a 18 v from ryobie.with two batteries. they all work well and are better than getting tangled up in leads. I had for years ( about 15) a 9.6 from ryobie but the battery finally died. you cant have too many. Get the best you can afford, you can't have too many drills.

[Pagie]

I have a14v cheepo from china, a14v bosch from switerland, a 18 v from ryobie.with two batteries. they all work well and are better than getting tangled up in leads. I had for years ( about 15) a 9.6 from ryobie but the battery finally died. you cant have too many. Get the best you can afford, you can't have too many drills.

[imported_Conrad]

I bought the 18v four-pack from Home depot. Ryobi drill, sawzall, skill-saw, and light, two year warranty, two batts and a charger. Lots of power, decent battery life, seem well made. $129.95 You're saying I should have bought another 12v Makita for $169.95? To replace the one that died after 6 months, and they wouldn't fix it? WRONG!! I love them, and use all of them regularly! :D

[imported_Conrad]

I bought the 18v four-pack from Home depot. Ryobi drill, sawzall, skill-saw, and light, two year warranty, two batts and a charger. Lots of power, decent battery life, seem well made. $129.95 You're saying I should have bought another 12v Makita for $169.95? To replace the one that died after 6 months, and they wouldn't fix it? WRONG!! I love them, and use all of them regularly! :D

[imported_Conrad]

I bought the 18v four-pack from Home depot. Ryobi drill, sawzall, skill-saw, and light, two year warranty, two batts and a charger. Lots of power, decent battery life, seem well made. $129.95 You're saying I should have bought another 12v Makita for $169.95? To replace the one that died after 6 months, and they wouldn't fix it? WRONG!! I love them, and use all of them regularly! :D

[Nicholas Carey]

On power/torque against weight and size, the Panasonic drill 14.4v wins hands down.

I like my 12v Fein.

Once you get above 14.4v, the weight and bulk of the drill goes up out of scale with what you get.

Do you really want to hump close to 6 pounds of drill at the end of your arm all day? It's kinda like carrying a Colt Walker around all day:

http://www.butterfields.com/lib/images/7378/7378A-9730.jpg

Makes my arm hurt thinking about it.

Think about your drilling requirements with respect to the power you need out of the drill.

Apparently, if you buy from a box like the Orange Box, etc., the tool you buy may be 'dumbed down' (in terms of moter, bearings, etc.) from the same model bought from a business that caters to professionals.

[Nicholas Carey]

On power/torque against weight and size, the Panasonic drill 14.4v wins hands down.

I like my 12v Fein.

Once you get above 14.4v, the weight and bulk of the drill goes up out of scale with what you get.

Do you really want to hump close to 6 pounds of drill at the end of your arm all day? It's kinda like carrying a Colt Walker around all day:

http://www.butterfields.com/lib/images/7378/7378A-9730.jpg

Makes my arm hurt thinking about it.

Think about your drilling requirements with respect to the power you need out of the drill.

Apparently, if you buy from a box like the Orange Box, etc., the tool you buy may be 'dumbed down' (in terms of moter, bearings, etc.) from the same model bought from a business that caters to professionals.

[Nicholas Carey]

On power/torque against weight and size, the Panasonic drill 14.4v wins hands down.

I like my 12v Fein.

Once you get above 14.4v, the weight and bulk of the drill goes up out of scale with what you get.

Do you really want to hump close to 6 pounds of drill at the end of your arm all day? It's kinda like carrying a Colt Walker around all day:

http://www.butterfields.com/lib/images/7378/7378A-9730.jpg

Makes my arm hurt thinking about it.

Think about your drilling requirements with respect to the power you need out of the drill.

Apparently, if you buy from a box like the Orange Box, etc., the tool you buy may be 'dumbed down' (in terms of moter, bearings, etc.) from the same model bought from a business that caters to professionals.

[imported_Conrad]

So, you'd be into this?

http://store5.yimg.com/I/replicaweaponry_1763_11480881

If you're "drilling holes all day", get one with a cord!! ;)

[imported_Conrad]

So, you'd be into this?

http://store5.yimg.com/I/replicaweaponry_1763_11480881

If you're "drilling holes all day", get one with a cord!! ;)

[imported_Conrad]

So, you'd be into this?

http://store5.yimg.com/I/replicaweaponry_1763_11480881

If you're "drilling holes all day", get one with a cord!! ;)

[Scott Rosen]

What mr.left said. I have the Dewalt 9.6 and I've beaten the crap out of it, including a couple of dousings in epoxy and MEK. It's got a lot of power, but not a lot of speed. It's better for driving than drilling. It's small and light enough that you can use it for a long stretch without getting fatigued.

[Scott Rosen]

What mr.left said. I have the Dewalt 9.6 and I've beaten the crap out of it, including a couple of dousings in epoxy and MEK. It's got a lot of power, but not a lot of speed. It's better for driving than drilling. It's small and light enough that you can use it for a long stretch without getting fatigued.

[Scott Rosen]

What mr.left said. I have the Dewalt 9.6 and I've beaten the crap out of it, including a couple of dousings in epoxy and MEK. It's got a lot of power, but not a lot of speed. It's better for driving than drilling. It's small and light enough that you can use it for a long stretch without getting fatigued.

[Harry Miller]

One of the battery packs on my Ryobi 14.4 died and I looked for a place that would refurbish it. The quote I got was about 80% of the cost of a new one so I pitched it. I've since read that Radio Shack has started to do this work. You'd think there was a business opportunity there.
Meanwhile I bought the lighter duty Crapsman, still 14.4, and like it better than the Ryobi. It's much lighter and I am following Hank's advice to keep the packs charged up.

[Harry Miller]

One of the battery packs on my Ryobi 14.4 died and I looked for a place that would refurbish it. The quote I got was about 80% of the cost of a new one so I pitched it. I've since read that Radio Shack has started to do this work. You'd think there was a business opportunity there.
Meanwhile I bought the lighter duty Crapsman, still 14.4, and like it better than the Ryobi. It's much lighter and I am following Hank's advice to keep the packs charged up.

[Harry Miller]

One of the battery packs on my Ryobi 14.4 died and I looked for a place that would refurbish it. The quote I got was about 80% of the cost of a new one so I pitched it. I've since read that Radio Shack has started to do this work. You'd think there was a business opportunity there.
Meanwhile I bought the lighter duty Crapsman, still 14.4, and like it better than the Ryobi. It's much lighter and I am following Hank's advice to keep the packs charged up.

[capt jake]

Heck, my old Makita 9.6 is nearly 15 years old and still chugging along. I have bought several batteries, but that is to be expected with any battery operated device.

Best price on ANY battery will be found at Batteries Plus. At work I by hundreds of batteries and they have beaten all of the competition.

[capt jake]

Heck, my old Makita 9.6 is nearly 15 years old and still chugging along. I have bought several batteries, but that is to be expected with any battery operated device.

Best price on ANY battery will be found at Batteries Plus. At work I by hundreds of batteries and they have beaten all of the competition.

[capt jake]

Heck, my old Makita 9.6 is nearly 15 years old and still chugging along. I have bought several batteries, but that is to be expected with any battery operated device.

Best price on ANY battery will be found at Batteries Plus. At work I by hundreds of batteries and they have beaten all of the competition.

[Stiletto]

When the batteries die and are too expensive to replace it can be worthwhile soldering a lead to the ex cordless and plug it in to the boat's 12v system. I have done this with my original 7.2v Makita and it works fine on 12v. I leave it on the boat.

[Stiletto]

When the batteries die and are too expensive to replace it can be worthwhile soldering a lead to the ex cordless and plug it in to the boat's 12v system. I have done this with my original 7.2v Makita and it works fine on 12v. I leave it on the boat.

[Stiletto]

When the batteries die and are too expensive to replace it can be worthwhile soldering a lead to the ex cordless and plug it in to the boat's 12v system. I have done this with my original 7.2v Makita and it works fine on 12v. I leave it on the boat.

[hoss]

I teach at a High School, the place power tools come to die. We have used 9.6 Dewalts for years they are very tough. We have burned out Makitas, Royabi's etc. but the DeWalts last. As a after thought the best palm sanders by far are also made by DeWalt they are a copy of Elu's whom Black and Decker bought out years ago. You can not hurt them.

[hoss]

I teach at a High School, the place power tools come to die. We have used 9.6 Dewalts for years they are very tough. We have burned out Makitas, Royabi's etc. but the DeWalts last. As a after thought the best palm sanders by far are also made by DeWalt they are a copy of Elu's whom Black and Decker bought out years ago. You can not hurt them.

[hoss]

I teach at a High School, the place power tools come to die. We have used 9.6 Dewalts for years they are very tough. We have burned out Makitas, Royabi's etc. but the DeWalts last. As a after thought the best palm sanders by far are also made by DeWalt they are a copy of Elu's whom Black and Decker bought out years ago. You can not hurt them.

[Figment]

I did this same dance last spring, and I wound up with a DeWalt 12V compact. Toolking gave a good deal on a rebuilt.

I landed on 12V finally because someone tipped me to the fact that, in a pinch, I could rig a jumper and run it off the boat's battery system. That's actually come in handy twice so far.

It's a fantastic screwdriver, but drilling kills it pretty quickly, especially if you're spinning a bit larger than 1/4". Holesawing? figure one hole per battery.

[Figment]

I did this same dance last spring, and I wound up with a DeWalt 12V compact. Toolking gave a good deal on a rebuilt.

I landed on 12V finally because someone tipped me to the fact that, in a pinch, I could rig a jumper and run it off the boat's battery system. That's actually come in handy twice so far.

It's a fantastic screwdriver, but drilling kills it pretty quickly, especially if you're spinning a bit larger than 1/4". Holesawing? figure one hole per battery.

[Figment]

I did this same dance last spring, and I wound up with a DeWalt 12V compact. Toolking gave a good deal on a rebuilt.

I landed on 12V finally because someone tipped me to the fact that, in a pinch, I could rig a jumper and run it off the boat's battery system. That's actually come in handy twice so far.

It's a fantastic screwdriver, but drilling kills it pretty quickly, especially if you're spinning a bit larger than 1/4". Holesawing? figure one hole per battery.

[formerlyknownasprince]

Don't wait till the battery is flat before recharging, slip them in regularly and you'll extend life quite a bit I don't want to sound rude, but this is the best way to stuff up a NiCad battery. I used to fly electric model aircraft - which rely on getting the best life out of NiCads - and this was an absolute no-no. This doesn't apply to Lithium Iron batteries, such as those used in many cell phones now, but is certainly the case with drill batteries.

NiCads develop a memory effect based on how they are used. If you fully discharge them prior to recharging you will get the best life. Lots and lots of info is available on this subject. Many good NiCad batteries are thrown away due to improper charging regimes (and many more due to cheap chargers). Also, leave the battery to cool down prior to charging. The best of the model aircraft chargers will fully discharge the battery before charging.

Re drill types - I've been through several and currently use a 14.4v Milwaukee wiht 2.0Ah batteries, which is brilliant. It replaced a cheap Asian-made 12v drill that (having been replaced once on warranty) burnt out trying to remove a screw holding together an epoxied scarf. The Milwaukee had no problems with the same screw. In the last year it has literally driven (many) hundreds of 1 1/2", 2" and 3" screws, as well as pilot holes, counter-sinking, etc.

I've also had a 9.6v AEG which failed too.

Ian

[formerlyknownasprince]

Don't wait till the battery is flat before recharging, slip them in regularly and you'll extend life quite a bit I don't want to sound rude, but this is the best way to stuff up a NiCad battery. I used to fly electric model aircraft - which rely on getting the best life out of NiCads - and this was an absolute no-no. This doesn't apply to Lithium Iron batteries, such as those used in many cell phones now, but is certainly the case with drill batteries.

NiCads develop a memory effect based on how they are used. If you fully discharge them prior to recharging you will get the best life. Lots and lots of info is available on this subject. Many good NiCad batteries are thrown away due to improper charging regimes (and many more due to cheap chargers). Also, leave the battery to cool down prior to charging. The best of the model aircraft chargers will fully discharge the battery before charging.

Re drill types - I've been through several and currently use a 14.4v Milwaukee wiht 2.0Ah batteries, which is brilliant. It replaced a cheap Asian-made 12v drill that (having been replaced once on warranty) burnt out trying to remove a screw holding together an epoxied scarf. The Milwaukee had no problems with the same screw. In the last year it has literally driven (many) hundreds of 1 1/2", 2" and 3" screws, as well as pilot holes, counter-sinking, etc.

I've also had a 9.6v AEG which failed too.

Ian

[formerlyknownasprince]

Don't wait till the battery is flat before recharging, slip them in regularly and you'll extend life quite a bit I don't want to sound rude, but this is the best way to stuff up a NiCad battery. I used to fly electric model aircraft - which rely on getting the best life out of NiCads - and this was an absolute no-no. This doesn't apply to Lithium Iron batteries, such as those used in many cell phones now, but is certainly the case with drill batteries.

NiCads develop a memory effect based on how they are used. If you fully discharge them prior to recharging you will get the best life. Lots and lots of info is available on this subject. Many good NiCad batteries are thrown away due to improper charging regimes (and many more due to cheap chargers). Also, leave the battery to cool down prior to charging. The best of the model aircraft chargers will fully discharge the battery before charging.

Re drill types - I've been through several and currently use a 14.4v Milwaukee wiht 2.0Ah batteries, which is brilliant. It replaced a cheap Asian-made 12v drill that (having been replaced once on warranty) burnt out trying to remove a screw holding together an epoxied scarf. The Milwaukee had no problems with the same screw. In the last year it has literally driven (many) hundreds of 1 1/2", 2" and 3" screws, as well as pilot holes, counter-sinking, etc.

I've also had a 9.6v AEG which failed too.

Ian

[John B]

I think all my drill/ drivers are on their second set of batteries. The replaced ones ( refurbished..., new cells into the old casings)are far superior to the OE. The panasonics( 9.6 in my case) are beautiful tools with the crappiest batteries.

[John B]

I think all my drill/ drivers are on their second set of batteries. The replaced ones ( refurbished..., new cells into the old casings)are far superior to the OE. The panasonics( 9.6 in my case) are beautiful tools with the crappiest batteries.

[John B]

I think all my drill/ drivers are on their second set of batteries. The replaced ones ( refurbished..., new cells into the old casings)are far superior to the OE. The panasonics( 9.6 in my case) are beautiful tools with the crappiest batteries.

[Tom M.]

A comment on the "memory" of NiCd batteries:

Yes they have a memory, but not a very good one.

Once you notice your battery developing a memory, you can erase that memory by completely cycling the battery a couple times. This means giving it a full charge, then COMPLETELY draining it, charging it up again, draining again, and then charging. The conventional wisdom of always draining a NiCd battery completely every time will certainly prevent it from developing a memory, BUT, the price you pay is that the battery will wear out quite a bit sooner. If you want the most lifetime amp-hours possible, do not completely drain the battery every time. Trust me. Don't believe what the industry is telling you. The just want to sell more batteries.

Oh, and my favorite cordless drill is Panasonic, all the way. Can't beat it, and I've tried all the rest.

[Tom M.]

A comment on the "memory" of NiCd batteries:

Yes they have a memory, but not a very good one.

Once you notice your battery developing a memory, you can erase that memory by completely cycling the battery a couple times. This means giving it a full charge, then COMPLETELY draining it, charging it up again, draining again, and then charging. The conventional wisdom of always draining a NiCd battery completely every time will certainly prevent it from developing a memory, BUT, the price you pay is that the battery will wear out quite a bit sooner. If you want the most lifetime amp-hours possible, do not completely drain the battery every time. Trust me. Don't believe what the industry is telling you. The just want to sell more batteries.

Oh, and my favorite cordless drill is Panasonic, all the way. Can't beat it, and I've tried all the rest.

[Tom M.]

A comment on the "memory" of NiCd batteries:

Yes they have a memory, but not a very good one.

Once you notice your battery developing a memory, you can erase that memory by completely cycling the battery a couple times. This means giving it a full charge, then COMPLETELY draining it, charging it up again, draining again, and then charging. The conventional wisdom of always draining a NiCd battery completely every time will certainly prevent it from developing a memory, BUT, the price you pay is that the battery will wear out quite a bit sooner. If you want the most lifetime amp-hours possible, do not completely drain the battery every time. Trust me. Don't believe what the industry is telling you. The just want to sell more batteries.

Oh, and my favorite cordless drill is Panasonic, all the way. Can't beat it, and I've tried all the rest.

[Meerkat]

Tom, no offense, but I'm with Igatanby on this one. NiCads do need to be fully cycled (but not hard discharged or left uncharged!) and they do need reconditioning cycles from time to time (forgive me, I've forgotten the exact term for it). Most battery chargers won't do a reconditioning cycle - few of them even recharge batteries properly.

FWIW, Sanyo is one of the very best battery makers around. I'm not sure, but they may be a subsidiary of Panasonic/Matsu****a.

[Meerkat]

Tom, no offense, but I'm with Igatanby on this one. NiCads do need to be fully cycled (but not hard discharged or left uncharged!) and they do need reconditioning cycles from time to time (forgive me, I've forgotten the exact term for it). Most battery chargers won't do a reconditioning cycle - few of them even recharge batteries properly.

FWIW, Sanyo is one of the very best battery makers around. I'm not sure, but they may be a subsidiary of Panasonic/Matsu****a.

[Meerkat]

Tom, no offense, but I'm with Igatanby on this one. NiCads do need to be fully cycled (but not hard discharged or left uncharged!) and they do need reconditioning cycles from time to time (forgive me, I've forgotten the exact term for it). Most battery chargers won't do a reconditioning cycle - few of them even recharge batteries properly.

FWIW, Sanyo is one of the very best battery makers around. I'm not sure, but they may be a subsidiary of Panasonic/Matsu****a.

[formerlyknownasprince]

I agree on Sanyo being among the best. I used to use their 1.2 volt cells for building aircraft and RC car batteries.

Its not "the industry" saying to not part-charge (which is the best thing for lead-acid batteries, BTW. It is the electrical engineers and the informed users.

I agree that the process of cycling the batteries (normally three times) can reduce the memory effect. I'd rather not have to do this - I'd rather do it right the first time. I don't go to the trouble of depleting the battery - just use it till it goes slow. I used to then run the drill (or plane / car) all the way down. Some people attach a light bulb to fully deplete batteries, but there is apparently a risk in this (not in running a tool flat) of having a cell reverse its polarity.

Ian

[formerlyknownasprince]

I agree on Sanyo being among the best. I used to use their 1.2 volt cells for building aircraft and RC car batteries.

Its not "the industry" saying to not part-charge (which is the best thing for lead-acid batteries, BTW. It is the electrical engineers and the informed users.

I agree that the process of cycling the batteries (normally three times) can reduce the memory effect. I'd rather not have to do this - I'd rather do it right the first time. I don't go to the trouble of depleting the battery - just use it till it goes slow. I used to then run the drill (or plane / car) all the way down. Some people attach a light bulb to fully deplete batteries, but there is apparently a risk in this (not in running a tool flat) of having a cell reverse its polarity.

Ian

[formerlyknownasprince]

I agree on Sanyo being among the best. I used to use their 1.2 volt cells for building aircraft and RC car batteries.

Its not "the industry" saying to not part-charge (which is the best thing for lead-acid batteries, BTW. It is the electrical engineers and the informed users.

I agree that the process of cycling the batteries (normally three times) can reduce the memory effect. I'd rather not have to do this - I'd rather do it right the first time. I don't go to the trouble of depleting the battery - just use it till it goes slow. I used to then run the drill (or plane / car) all the way down. Some people attach a light bulb to fully deplete batteries, but there is apparently a risk in this (not in running a tool flat) of having a cell reverse its polarity.

Ian

[formerlyknownasprince]

Intrigued by this, I just did some research to revive my memory.

Here's an independent (academic) view of NiCads.

Columbia Uni (http://www.columbia.edu/~fuat/cuarc/NiCd.html)

Ian

[formerlyknownasprince]

Intrigued by this, I just did some research to revive my memory.

Here's an independent (academic) view of NiCads.

Columbia Uni (http://www.columbia.edu/~fuat/cuarc/NiCd.html)

Ian

[formerlyknownasprince]

Intrigued by this, I just did some research to revive my memory.

Here's an independent (academic) view of NiCads.

Columbia Uni (http://www.columbia.edu/~fuat/cuarc/NiCd.html)

Ian

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Conrad S.:
So, you'd be into this?

http://store5.yimg.com/I/replicaweaponry_1763_11480881WRT to either corded or cordless..."as small as possible...but no smaller" is a good rule. :D

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Conrad S.:
So, you'd be into this?

http://store5.yimg.com/I/replicaweaponry_1763_11480881WRT to either corded or cordless..."as small as possible...but no smaller" is a good rule. :D

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Conrad S.:
So, you'd be into this?

http://store5.yimg.com/I/replicaweaponry_1763_11480881WRT to either corded or cordless..."as small as possible...but no smaller" is a good rule. :D

[Meerkat]

My landlady, seemingly having decided that the year end tax benefit outweighed the risk of my falling through the soft plywood decking and mushy plywood steps of the back porch of the rental unit I live in, has hired a guy to replace the 3'x4' porch with a princely 4' x 8' porch complete with real decking and solid wood steps (at least it will now hold a (small) bbq). Not exactly finish carpentry, but it's all PT and is going to be loads better than it's predecessor.

His drill was a 18V DeWalt and he was using forstner (sp?) bits to drill some holes and countersink others. Said he'd had it for 2 years and no probs. Thought it was the best trade off for volts vs. heavy duty work.

He also had a nice little ("$120 or so...") compressor to run his medium/light nailer (a bit more than a finish nailer I think, but considerably less than a framing nailer), which he said was more than good enough for his needs and saved loads of time.

[Meerkat]

My landlady, seemingly having decided that the year end tax benefit outweighed the risk of my falling through the soft plywood decking and mushy plywood steps of the back porch of the rental unit I live in, has hired a guy to replace the 3'x4' porch with a princely 4' x 8' porch complete with real decking and solid wood steps (at least it will now hold a (small) bbq). Not exactly finish carpentry, but it's all PT and is going to be loads better than it's predecessor.

His drill was a 18V DeWalt and he was using forstner (sp?) bits to drill some holes and countersink others. Said he'd had it for 2 years and no probs. Thought it was the best trade off for volts vs. heavy duty work.

He also had a nice little ("$120 or so...") compressor to run his medium/light nailer (a bit more than a finish nailer I think, but considerably less than a framing nailer), which he said was more than good enough for his needs and saved loads of time.

[Meerkat]

My landlady, seemingly having decided that the year end tax benefit outweighed the risk of my falling through the soft plywood decking and mushy plywood steps of the back porch of the rental unit I live in, has hired a guy to replace the 3'x4' porch with a princely 4' x 8' porch complete with real decking and solid wood steps (at least it will now hold a (small) bbq). Not exactly finish carpentry, but it's all PT and is going to be loads better than it's predecessor.

His drill was a 18V DeWalt and he was using forstner (sp?) bits to drill some holes and countersink others. Said he'd had it for 2 years and no probs. Thought it was the best trade off for volts vs. heavy duty work.

He also had a nice little ("$120 or so...") compressor to run his medium/light nailer (a bit more than a finish nailer I think, but considerably less than a framing nailer), which he said was more than good enough for his needs and saved loads of time.

[seafox61]

My history was half a decade using mikita 9.6 drills rebuilding store interiors it was very nice haveing enough batterys and chargers that when you neeed a change you almost always could . when I bought my own I went to craftman 13.2 ( two different kinds batterys wouldn't enterchange and then a 14.4 and a 15.6 also craftsman and good tools no problem except the interchangable battery problem
the low price of the harbor fraight 18 volt on sale got me intrested in them and whilethey were not noticable stronger than the sears 14.4s they lasted much longer per charge must have bought 6 of them over time along with the trim saw.
I also eventually bought a dewalt 18 volt recip saw it is a great family of tools with the radio/charger. my wifes uncle likes the 18 volt drills very much.
I would like to go on to a 24 volt system but bugget problems has stoped me I wish dewalt had a fully developed 24 volt system.
I never have had a problem with the weight of a grill though the torque from a 24 volt has some times been a problem.
harbor fraight 24 volt once went on sale for around 70$ the 18v sales for 40$.
jeffery
PS. seems to me you aare usually better off buying the bigest tool you can aford in the past if their were 3 levels I would buy the midlevel. take tillers for example I got the 5 horse rear tine which is now about as big as sears sells now but wish I had got the 9 horse they used to sell.

[ 11-03-2003, 09:19 PM: Message edited by: seafox61 ]

[seafox61]

My history was half a decade using mikita 9.6 drills rebuilding store interiors it was very nice haveing enough batterys and chargers that when you neeed a change you almost always could . when I bought my own I went to craftman 13.2 ( two different kinds batterys wouldn't enterchange and then a 14.4 and a 15.6 also craftsman and good tools no problem except the interchangable battery problem
the low price of the harbor fraight 18 volt on sale got me intrested in them and whilethey were not noticable stronger than the sears 14.4s they lasted much longer per charge must have bought 6 of them over time along with the trim saw.
I also eventually bought a dewalt 18 volt recip saw it is a great family of tools with the radio/charger. my wifes uncle likes the 18 volt drills very much.
I would like to go on to a 24 volt system but bugget problems has stoped me I wish dewalt had a fully developed 24 volt system.
I never have had a problem with the weight of a grill though the torque from a 24 volt has some times been a problem.
harbor fraight 24 volt once went on sale for around 70$ the 18v sales for 40$.
jeffery
PS. seems to me you aare usually better off buying the bigest tool you can aford in the past if their were 3 levels I would buy the midlevel. take tillers for example I got the 5 horse rear tine which is now about as big as sears sells now but wish I had got the 9 horse they used to sell.

[ 11-03-2003, 09:19 PM: Message edited by: seafox61 ]

[seafox61]

My history was half a decade using mikita 9.6 drills rebuilding store interiors it was very nice haveing enough batterys and chargers that when you neeed a change you almost always could . when I bought my own I went to craftman 13.2 ( two different kinds batterys wouldn't enterchange and then a 14.4 and a 15.6 also craftsman and good tools no problem except the interchangable battery problem
the low price of the harbor fraight 18 volt on sale got me intrested in them and whilethey were not noticable stronger than the sears 14.4s they lasted much longer per charge must have bought 6 of them over time along with the trim saw.
I also eventually bought a dewalt 18 volt recip saw it is a great family of tools with the radio/charger. my wifes uncle likes the 18 volt drills very much.
I would like to go on to a 24 volt system but bugget problems has stoped me I wish dewalt had a fully developed 24 volt system.
I never have had a problem with the weight of a grill though the torque from a 24 volt has some times been a problem.
harbor fraight 24 volt once went on sale for around 70$ the 18v sales for 40$.
jeffery
PS. seems to me you aare usually better off buying the bigest tool you can aford in the past if their were 3 levels I would buy the midlevel. take tillers for example I got the 5 horse rear tine which is now about as big as sears sells now but wish I had got the 9 horse they used to sell.

[ 11-03-2003, 09:19 PM: Message edited by: seafox61 ]

[Torna]

And what's the buzz here on the forum with cordless impact drivers such as Makita 6916? Friend I know swears by 'em over stock drivers, says he'll never go back. I know that at only about 7 inches, bit to heel, they'll work in places that my old 9.6 Makita driver could never fit. But I wonder what the rest of your experiences are?

-leif

[Torna]

And what's the buzz here on the forum with cordless impact drivers such as Makita 6916? Friend I know swears by 'em over stock drivers, says he'll never go back. I know that at only about 7 inches, bit to heel, they'll work in places that my old 9.6 Makita driver could never fit. But I wonder what the rest of your experiences are?

-leif

[Torna]

And what's the buzz here on the forum with cordless impact drivers such as Makita 6916? Friend I know swears by 'em over stock drivers, says he'll never go back. I know that at only about 7 inches, bit to heel, they'll work in places that my old 9.6 Makita driver could never fit. But I wonder what the rest of your experiences are?

-leif

[Tom M.]

Meerkat, no offence taken! But I stand by what I said. I KNOW it is true. I will bet a million bucks on this one. (If I had it, HA!)

I never said NiCds didn't need recondtioning cycles. That's the very thing that "erases" their memory once it develops. Reconditioning cycles are just a couple full charge/discharge cycles, which is what most people do to their NiCd battery EVERY time.

DON'T DO IT EVERY TIME. You will shorten the life of your battery. Do it only when you notice your battery has developed a memory. Do it only when your battery gets "stuffed up" as igatenby describes it.

If you always want or need the maxximum charge (in amp hours) available from your NiCd battery, then perhaps you should do what y'all do anyway; cycle them completely every time. But if you want to get the most LIFETIME amp-hours out of it, don't do that.

Flying R/C airplanes might be one of those times you always want max capacity. Using a cordless drill probably isn't.

igatenby: Yes, the industry is telling you how to use your NiCd batteries. They hire engineers to write instructions on their use. The memory effect is confusing for the average user, so the instructions they write bypass that problem by telling consumers to fully cycle them all the time. I'm sure this prevents consumers from confusing memory effect with a defective battery, therefore allowing the industry to bolster their reputation by insulating themselves from uninformed NiCd users, while at the same time creating a market to sell more batteries in the future. That's because the industry's instructions cause the battery to wear out sooner than if it was used in a different way. Informed users know they don't have to do it the way they are told.

FWIW, when I use my cordless drill, I swap batteries when I first feel that its getting weak. I'll fully discharge every 6 or 7 times or so.

[ 11-04-2003, 01:07 AM: Message edited by: Tom M. ]

[Tom M.]

Meerkat, no offence taken! But I stand by what I said. I KNOW it is true. I will bet a million bucks on this one. (If I had it, HA!)

I never said NiCds didn't need recondtioning cycles. That's the very thing that "erases" their memory once it develops. Reconditioning cycles are just a couple full charge/discharge cycles, which is what most people do to their NiCd battery EVERY time.

DON'T DO IT EVERY TIME. You will shorten the life of your battery. Do it only when you notice your battery has developed a memory. Do it only when your battery gets "stuffed up" as igatenby describes it.

If you always want or need the maxximum charge (in amp hours) available from your NiCd battery, then perhaps you should do what y'all do anyway; cycle them completely every time. But if you want to get the most LIFETIME amp-hours out of it, don't do that.

Flying R/C airplanes might be one of those times you always want max capacity. Using a cordless drill probably isn't.

igatenby: Yes, the industry is telling you how to use your NiCd batteries. They hire engineers to write instructions on their use. The memory effect is confusing for the average user, so the instructions they write bypass that problem by telling consumers to fully cycle them all the time. I'm sure this prevents consumers from confusing memory effect with a defective battery, therefore allowing the industry to bolster their reputation by insulating themselves from uninformed NiCd users, while at the same time creating a market to sell more batteries in the future. That's because the industry's instructions cause the battery to wear out sooner than if it was used in a different way. Informed users know they don't have to do it the way they are told.

FWIW, when I use my cordless drill, I swap batteries when I first feel that its getting weak. I'll fully discharge every 6 or 7 times or so.

[ 11-04-2003, 01:07 AM: Message edited by: Tom M. ]

[Tom M.]

Meerkat, no offence taken! But I stand by what I said. I KNOW it is true. I will bet a million bucks on this one. (If I had it, HA!)

I never said NiCds didn't need recondtioning cycles. That's the very thing that "erases" their memory once it develops. Reconditioning cycles are just a couple full charge/discharge cycles, which is what most people do to their NiCd battery EVERY time.

DON'T DO IT EVERY TIME. You will shorten the life of your battery. Do it only when you notice your battery has developed a memory. Do it only when your battery gets "stuffed up" as igatenby describes it.

If you always want or need the maxximum charge (in amp hours) available from your NiCd battery, then perhaps you should do what y'all do anyway; cycle them completely every time. But if you want to get the most LIFETIME amp-hours out of it, don't do that.

Flying R/C airplanes might be one of those times you always want max capacity. Using a cordless drill probably isn't.

igatenby: Yes, the industry is telling you how to use your NiCd batteries. They hire engineers to write instructions on their use. The memory effect is confusing for the average user, so the instructions they write bypass that problem by telling consumers to fully cycle them all the time. I'm sure this prevents consumers from confusing memory effect with a defective battery, therefore allowing the industry to bolster their reputation by insulating themselves from uninformed NiCd users, while at the same time creating a market to sell more batteries in the future. That's because the industry's instructions cause the battery to wear out sooner than if it was used in a different way. Informed users know they don't have to do it the way they are told.

FWIW, when I use my cordless drill, I swap batteries when I first feel that its getting weak. I'll fully discharge every 6 or 7 times or so.

[ 11-04-2003, 01:07 AM: Message edited by: Tom M. ]

[RodB]

I think the most bang for the buck is the 2nd generation Makita 12 volt cordless drills (with steel gears not nylon like the current models). They can be found in Pawn Shops (usually around $50 with a case and two batteries). I have two of them and have used them for several years. They come with a clip for your belt, have plenty of power for driving 3" screws into 2X4's and the chuck pulls forward to unlock for bit changes. You can probably get two of them (used only) for around $100. They are a nice size and very handy and not too heavy. The Makitas have a great power to weight ratio and I would not consider larger/heavier models for using day in day out. If I ever bought another cordless it would have to stand up the these sweet tools. One I did like was a high quality Hilti but it cost $325.

RB

[RodB]

I think the most bang for the buck is the 2nd generation Makita 12 volt cordless drills (with steel gears not nylon like the current models). They can be found in Pawn Shops (usually around $50 with a case and two batteries). I have two of them and have used them for several years. They come with a clip for your belt, have plenty of power for driving 3" screws into 2X4's and the chuck pulls forward to unlock for bit changes. You can probably get two of them (used only) for around $100. They are a nice size and very handy and not too heavy. The Makitas have a great power to weight ratio and I would not consider larger/heavier models for using day in day out. If I ever bought another cordless it would have to stand up the these sweet tools. One I did like was a high quality Hilti but it cost $325.

RB

[RodB]

I think the most bang for the buck is the 2nd generation Makita 12 volt cordless drills (with steel gears not nylon like the current models). They can be found in Pawn Shops (usually around $50 with a case and two batteries). I have two of them and have used them for several years. They come with a clip for your belt, have plenty of power for driving 3" screws into 2X4's and the chuck pulls forward to unlock for bit changes. You can probably get two of them (used only) for around $100. They are a nice size and very handy and not too heavy. The Makitas have a great power to weight ratio and I would not consider larger/heavier models for using day in day out. If I ever bought another cordless it would have to stand up the these sweet tools. One I did like was a high quality Hilti but it cost $325.

RB

[Venchka]

A guy at work has what I think is a Makita or Ryobi with a BUBBLE LEVEL mounted on the centerline of the motor at the back. Easy as pie to drill perfectly plumb holes. I've looked at every cordless drill on every shelf in every retail outlet I've been in since I first saw his drill. No luck! Anyone know of anybody offering a bubble level on the back of their cordless drills? Or a glue on bubble level that I could put on my existing or futre drills?

[Venchka]

A guy at work has what I think is a Makita or Ryobi with a BUBBLE LEVEL mounted on the centerline of the motor at the back. Easy as pie to drill perfectly plumb holes. I've looked at every cordless drill on every shelf in every retail outlet I've been in since I first saw his drill. No luck! Anyone know of anybody offering a bubble level on the back of their cordless drills? Or a glue on bubble level that I could put on my existing or futre drills?

[Venchka]

A guy at work has what I think is a Makita or Ryobi with a BUBBLE LEVEL mounted on the centerline of the motor at the back. Easy as pie to drill perfectly plumb holes. I've looked at every cordless drill on every shelf in every retail outlet I've been in since I first saw his drill. No luck! Anyone know of anybody offering a bubble level on the back of their cordless drills? Or a glue on bubble level that I could put on my existing or futre drills?

[dmede]

on the battery charging thing, i know my new makita 9.6v has directions that specify recharging as soon as there is a noticable decline in power. they specifically mention complete draining as a good way to shorten the battery life.

as for the drill, it's perfect. plenty of power for almost all my needs in the shop and i love the balance and feel. i can't stand the big red fat batteries and got this drill because of the long straight battery handle. much easier to to get into tight places and move around.

[dmede]

on the battery charging thing, i know my new makita 9.6v has directions that specify recharging as soon as there is a noticable decline in power. they specifically mention complete draining as a good way to shorten the battery life.

as for the drill, it's perfect. plenty of power for almost all my needs in the shop and i love the balance and feel. i can't stand the big red fat batteries and got this drill because of the long straight battery handle. much easier to to get into tight places and move around.

[dmede]

on the battery charging thing, i know my new makita 9.6v has directions that specify recharging as soon as there is a noticable decline in power. they specifically mention complete draining as a good way to shorten the battery life.

as for the drill, it's perfect. plenty of power for almost all my needs in the shop and i love the balance and feel. i can't stand the big red fat batteries and got this drill because of the long straight battery handle. much easier to to get into tight places and move around.

[Donn]

Wayne...my Ryobi 18v has two bubbles. One for vertical and one for horizontal. It's 2 years old, so I don't know if they still make 'em that way, but it's great for the tool-challenged, like me. :cool:

[Donn]

Wayne...my Ryobi 18v has two bubbles. One for vertical and one for horizontal. It's 2 years old, so I don't know if they still make 'em that way, but it's great for the tool-challenged, like me. :cool:

[Donn]

Wayne...my Ryobi 18v has two bubbles. One for vertical and one for horizontal. It's 2 years old, so I don't know if they still make 'em that way, but it's great for the tool-challenged, like me. :cool:

[B_B]

Originally posted by Venchka:
A guy at work has what I think is a Makita or Ryobi with a BUBBLE LEVEL mounted on the centerline of the motor at the back. Easy as pie to drill perfectly plumb holes. I've looked at every cordless drill on every shelf in every retail outlet I've been in since I first saw his drill. No luck! Anyone know of anybody offering a bubble level on the back of their cordless drills? Or a glue on bubble level that I could put on my existing or futre drills?my sears craftsman 12 volt is about seven years old and it has a level...haven't gone tool shopping in a dogs age so can't help more'n that - sorry.

this tool has taken a lot of abuse, needs a new battery but besides that is still working as when I got it - although I mainly use the corded due to the single battery issue...and another battery would cost more than a new dewalt 18 volt with two batteries! (for some silly reason I like yellow tools!)

[ 11-04-2003, 11:57 PM: Message edited by: Braam Berrub ]

[B_B]

Originally posted by Venchka:
A guy at work has what I think is a Makita or Ryobi with a BUBBLE LEVEL mounted on the centerline of the motor at the back. Easy as pie to drill perfectly plumb holes. I've looked at every cordless drill on every shelf in every retail outlet I've been in since I first saw his drill. No luck! Anyone know of anybody offering a bubble level on the back of their cordless drills? Or a glue on bubble level that I could put on my existing or futre drills?my sears craftsman 12 volt is about seven years old and it has a level...haven't gone tool shopping in a dogs age so can't help more'n that - sorry.

this tool has taken a lot of abuse, needs a new battery but besides that is still working as when I got it - although I mainly use the corded due to the single battery issue...and another battery would cost more than a new dewalt 18 volt with two batteries! (for some silly reason I like yellow tools!)

[ 11-04-2003, 11:57 PM: Message edited by: Braam Berrub ]

[B_B]

Originally posted by Venchka:
A guy at work has what I think is a Makita or Ryobi with a BUBBLE LEVEL mounted on the centerline of the motor at the back. Easy as pie to drill perfectly plumb holes. I've looked at every cordless drill on every shelf in every retail outlet I've been in since I first saw his drill. No luck! Anyone know of anybody offering a bubble level on the back of their cordless drills? Or a glue on bubble level that I could put on my existing or futre drills?my sears craftsman 12 volt is about seven years old and it has a level...haven't gone tool shopping in a dogs age so can't help more'n that - sorry.

this tool has taken a lot of abuse, needs a new battery but besides that is still working as when I got it - although I mainly use the corded due to the single battery issue...and another battery would cost more than a new dewalt 18 volt with two batteries! (for some silly reason I like yellow tools!)

[ 11-04-2003, 11:57 PM: Message edited by: Braam Berrub ]

[TimH]

Makita all the way!!!, I have a 12V that I have had for like 8 years. It takes a likin and keeps on tickin. way nicer that the Dewalts we use at work. I once dropped my Makita 12 feet onto a concrete floor. picked it up, found the battery, picked it up, put them together, :D and it still works great smile.gif

[TimH]

Makita all the way!!!, I have a 12V that I have had for like 8 years. It takes a likin and keeps on tickin. way nicer that the Dewalts we use at work. I once dropped my Makita 12 feet onto a concrete floor. picked it up, found the battery, picked it up, put them together, :D and it still works great smile.gif

[TimH]

Makita all the way!!!, I have a 12V that I have had for like 8 years. It takes a likin and keeps on tickin. way nicer that the Dewalts we use at work. I once dropped my Makita 12 feet onto a concrete floor. picked it up, found the battery, picked it up, put them together, :D and it still works great smile.gif

[Jamie Hascall]

I've got two 9.6v Dewalts and have inherited a 12v Ryobi. I'm surprised at how much I'm liking the Ryobi. Slower and less bells and whistles, but works just fine. If your tool dollars are limited, it's not really a bad choice.

BTW, there are replacement batteries on Ebay that look like a pretty decent deals.

Jamie

[Jamie Hascall]

I've got two 9.6v Dewalts and have inherited a 12v Ryobi. I'm surprised at how much I'm liking the Ryobi. Slower and less bells and whistles, but works just fine. If your tool dollars are limited, it's not really a bad choice.

BTW, there are replacement batteries on Ebay that look like a pretty decent deals.

Jamie

[Jamie Hascall]

I've got two 9.6v Dewalts and have inherited a 12v Ryobi. I'm surprised at how much I'm liking the Ryobi. Slower and less bells and whistles, but works just fine. If your tool dollars are limited, it's not really a bad choice.

BTW, there are replacement batteries on Ebay that look like a pretty decent deals.

Jamie

[Meerkat]

What's this new "Rigid" brand that's been advertizing on TV, presumably to attract xmas dollars?

[Meerkat]

What's this new "Rigid" brand that's been advertizing on TV, presumably to attract xmas dollars?

[Meerkat]

What's this new "Rigid" brand that's been advertizing on TV, presumably to attract xmas dollars?

[Venchka]

RE: LEVELS

My Craftsman has a horizontal level. I have yet to see a bubble level on any cordless drill currently for sale. I think they may be extinct.

BUMMER! A POX on the bean counters who lopped off the bubble level to save a $0.01!

[Venchka]

RE: LEVELS

My Craftsman has a horizontal level. I have yet to see a bubble level on any cordless drill currently for sale. I think they may be extinct.

BUMMER! A POX on the bean counters who lopped off the bubble level to save a $0.01!

[Venchka]

RE: LEVELS

My Craftsman has a horizontal level. I have yet to see a bubble level on any cordless drill currently for sale. I think they may be extinct.

BUMMER! A POX on the bean counters who lopped off the bubble level to save a $0.01!

[tjdono]

Best way to keep your batteries long-lasting is to use em. Slap em in the drill and drive screws into hulls, bulkheads, soles, and frames. When the freaking thing starts boggin down grab a new battery from the charger and keep screwin. If you buy quality... Porter Cable, Bosch, DeWalt, Millwaukee, and Panasonic....you won't be disappointed and you won't be buying batteries so often it pisses you off. However, if you enjoy being pissed off and you are not married...go out and buy the cheap crap, I call em disposables, like Craftsman, Ryobi, and Black&Decker. These are the toolmakers that will make you research Nicad battery life tests and alternative battery refreshment investment opportunitys! :D

All said in good fun, by the way, from a 22 year carpenter with a tool horde. You can Never have too many clamps in your aresenal.

Tim

[tjdono]

Best way to keep your batteries long-lasting is to use em. Slap em in the drill and drive screws into hulls, bulkheads, soles, and frames. When the freaking thing starts boggin down grab a new battery from the charger and keep screwin. If you buy quality... Porter Cable, Bosch, DeWalt, Millwaukee, and Panasonic....you won't be disappointed and you won't be buying batteries so often it pisses you off. However, if you enjoy being pissed off and you are not married...go out and buy the cheap crap, I call em disposables, like Craftsman, Ryobi, and Black&Decker. These are the toolmakers that will make you research Nicad battery life tests and alternative battery refreshment investment opportunitys! :D

All said in good fun, by the way, from a 22 year carpenter with a tool horde. You can Never have too many clamps in your aresenal.

Tim

[tjdono]

Best way to keep your batteries long-lasting is to use em. Slap em in the drill and drive screws into hulls, bulkheads, soles, and frames. When the freaking thing starts boggin down grab a new battery from the charger and keep screwin. If you buy quality... Porter Cable, Bosch, DeWalt, Millwaukee, and Panasonic....you won't be disappointed and you won't be buying batteries so often it pisses you off. However, if you enjoy being pissed off and you are not married...go out and buy the cheap crap, I call em disposables, like Craftsman, Ryobi, and Black&Decker. These are the toolmakers that will make you research Nicad battery life tests and alternative battery refreshment investment opportunitys! :D

All said in good fun, by the way, from a 22 year carpenter with a tool horde. You can Never have too many clamps in your aresenal.

Tim

[ion barnes]

I have used 12v, 14v, an 18v DeWalt and preferthe 12v as it has the nicest weight and balance of them all. With a fresh battery I can cut several 4" holes tru 1/8" FG, but it is had on the motor windings. Now have an air drill and that does not stop for anything except when the distance exceeds the hose length.

[ion barnes]

I have used 12v, 14v, an 18v DeWalt and preferthe 12v as it has the nicest weight and balance of them all. With a fresh battery I can cut several 4" holes tru 1/8" FG, but it is had on the motor windings. Now have an air drill and that does not stop for anything except when the distance exceeds the hose length.

[ion barnes]

I have used 12v, 14v, an 18v DeWalt and preferthe 12v as it has the nicest weight and balance of them all. With a fresh battery I can cut several 4" holes tru 1/8" FG, but it is had on the motor windings. Now have an air drill and that does not stop for anything except when the distance exceeds the hose length.

[Alan Peck]

I am very pleased with my 12V Black&Decker. I know many people think that B&D is not the best quality. But it was moderately priced and I have driven several thousand screws with it.

The best feature is the removable chuck with a holder for the driver bit underneat the chuck. This is a terrific feature since it makes it really easy to drill the pilot and counterbores and then drive the screw without have to change between drill and bit. It only takes one hand to pull off the chuck and you are ready to drive, slip it back on to drill and off to drive. Works great.

I have several of the combination drill and drivers where you can reverse the position to drill and drive. However, these take a two handed operation to switch and are not nearly as quick and easy and the B&D removable chuck.

If you haven't tried this, its worth a look at this system at your local store.

[Alan Peck]

I am very pleased with my 12V Black&Decker. I know many people think that B&D is not the best quality. But it was moderately priced and I have driven several thousand screws with it.

The best feature is the removable chuck with a holder for the driver bit underneat the chuck. This is a terrific feature since it makes it really easy to drill the pilot and counterbores and then drive the screw without have to change between drill and bit. It only takes one hand to pull off the chuck and you are ready to drive, slip it back on to drill and off to drive. Works great.

I have several of the combination drill and drivers where you can reverse the position to drill and drive. However, these take a two handed operation to switch and are not nearly as quick and easy and the B&D removable chuck.

If you haven't tried this, its worth a look at this system at your local store.

[Alan Peck]

I am very pleased with my 12V Black&Decker. I know many people think that B&D is not the best quality. But it was moderately priced and I have driven several thousand screws with it.

The best feature is the removable chuck with a holder for the driver bit underneat the chuck. This is a terrific feature since it makes it really easy to drill the pilot and counterbores and then drive the screw without have to change between drill and bit. It only takes one hand to pull off the chuck and you are ready to drive, slip it back on to drill and off to drive. Works great.

I have several of the combination drill and drivers where you can reverse the position to drill and drive. However, these take a two handed operation to switch and are not nearly as quick and easy and the B&D removable chuck.

If you haven't tried this, its worth a look at this system at your local store.

[capt jake]

I know many people think that B&D is not the best quality. Not at all!! Of course it depends upon which generation of B&D! ;) I have several routers which are B&D and I love them! Only wish they still made 'em! Danged mergers anyway! ;)

[capt jake]

I know many people think that B&D is not the best quality. Not at all!! Of course it depends upon which generation of B&D! ;) I have several routers which are B&D and I love them! Only wish they still made 'em! Danged mergers anyway! ;)

[capt jake]

I know many people think that B&D is not the best quality. Not at all!! Of course it depends upon which generation of B&D! ;) I have several routers which are B&D and I love them! Only wish they still made 'em! Danged mergers anyway! ;)

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I had a very expensive pre-dewalt industrial black and decker, which was an excellent drill. I now have a old 4.8 makita, a 9.6 makita, a 16.8 volt craftsman (newest), a 3/8 corded B&D industrial and a 1/2 inch hammer drill B&D industrial. All have been great.

I have read a couple of very good reviews on the Panasonic. Interesting to not that Matsu****a electric, the parent company, is a leader in battery technology, including the nickle hydride battery in the Toyota Prius hybrid car.

One of the things to mention besides battery quality, is gearcase quality. You pay for that, and if you're driving deck screws all day, then a good one will pay itself back I suspect. I bought the Craftsman on sale, fully intending to buy a high end dewalt, but so far so good, and I use em. ;)

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I had a very expensive pre-dewalt industrial black and decker, which was an excellent drill. I now have a old 4.8 makita, a 9.6 makita, a 16.8 volt craftsman (newest), a 3/8 corded B&D industrial and a 1/2 inch hammer drill B&D industrial. All have been great.

I have read a couple of very good reviews on the Panasonic. Interesting to not that Matsu****a electric, the parent company, is a leader in battery technology, including the nickle hydride battery in the Toyota Prius hybrid car.

One of the things to mention besides battery quality, is gearcase quality. You pay for that, and if you're driving deck screws all day, then a good one will pay itself back I suspect. I bought the Craftsman on sale, fully intending to buy a high end dewalt, but so far so good, and I use em. ;)

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I had a very expensive pre-dewalt industrial black and decker, which was an excellent drill. I now have a old 4.8 makita, a 9.6 makita, a 16.8 volt craftsman (newest), a 3/8 corded B&D industrial and a 1/2 inch hammer drill B&D industrial. All have been great.

I have read a couple of very good reviews on the Panasonic. Interesting to not that Matsu****a electric, the parent company, is a leader in battery technology, including the nickle hydride battery in the Toyota Prius hybrid car.

One of the things to mention besides battery quality, is gearcase quality. You pay for that, and if you're driving deck screws all day, then a good one will pay itself back I suspect. I bought the Craftsman on sale, fully intending to buy a high end dewalt, but so far so good, and I use em. ;)

[stan v]

Tim is absolutely correct. I have a Milwaukee 14volt and a Craftsman (last year on sale couldn't pass up junk) and the difference is nothing short of amazing. The Craftsman chuck is junk, won't tighten to hold a small bit without needing a wrench to untighten. Get the best the first time, it's cheaper.

[stan v]

Tim is absolutely correct. I have a Milwaukee 14volt and a Craftsman (last year on sale couldn't pass up junk) and the difference is nothing short of amazing. The Craftsman chuck is junk, won't tighten to hold a small bit without needing a wrench to untighten. Get the best the first time, it's cheaper.

[stan v]

Tim is absolutely correct. I have a Milwaukee 14volt and a Craftsman (last year on sale couldn't pass up junk) and the difference is nothing short of amazing. The Craftsman chuck is junk, won't tighten to hold a small bit without needing a wrench to untighten. Get the best the first time, it's cheaper.

[Dale R. Hamilton]

Odd that nobody mentioned Grizzly. Their model G8596 is only $69.95 with battery, its 18v, high/low speed settings , comes with charger. I have 2 that seem to do just fine. How about it- anybody got an opinion on the Griz?

[Dale R. Hamilton]

Odd that nobody mentioned Grizzly. Their model G8596 is only $69.95 with battery, its 18v, high/low speed settings , comes with charger. I have 2 that seem to do just fine. How about it- anybody got an opinion on the Griz?

[Dale R. Hamilton]

Odd that nobody mentioned Grizzly. Their model G8596 is only $69.95 with battery, its 18v, high/low speed settings , comes with charger. I have 2 that seem to do just fine. How about it- anybody got an opinion on the Griz?

[Paul H]

I got my wife a 12V compact DeWalt for last Christmas. I wanted a drill that wouldn't be too heavy for her. Somehow I seem to be getting more use out of it for the honeydos.

Anyhow, I've been impressed by the power of the drill. I've broken several phillips head bits while driving drywall screws.

I find the two batteries seem to have plenty of power, one stays in the charger, and one in the drill, and they're swapped whenever the one in the drill gets low.

[Paul H]

I got my wife a 12V compact DeWalt for last Christmas. I wanted a drill that wouldn't be too heavy for her. Somehow I seem to be getting more use out of it for the honeydos.

Anyhow, I've been impressed by the power of the drill. I've broken several phillips head bits while driving drywall screws.

I find the two batteries seem to have plenty of power, one stays in the charger, and one in the drill, and they're swapped whenever the one in the drill gets low.

[Paul H]

I got my wife a 12V compact DeWalt for last Christmas. I wanted a drill that wouldn't be too heavy for her. Somehow I seem to be getting more use out of it for the honeydos.

Anyhow, I've been impressed by the power of the drill. I've broken several phillips head bits while driving drywall screws.

I find the two batteries seem to have plenty of power, one stays in the charger, and one in the drill, and they're swapped whenever the one in the drill gets low.

[warthog5]

I've had Mikita 9.6 and 12v, Craftsman 9.6V Millwakee 9.6v and I now have 2- Dewalt 14.4 w/1/2in chuck. The guys at work got the Dewalt 18v, cause more must be better. Not! Those Dewalt 18v will kill your wrist and arm. To Heavy!

It's become pretty standard in my neck of the woods.
Buy whatever brand and use it till it dies, then get a Dewalt and keep going! :D

[warthog5]

I've had Mikita 9.6 and 12v, Craftsman 9.6V Millwakee 9.6v and I now have 2- Dewalt 14.4 w/1/2in chuck. The guys at work got the Dewalt 18v, cause more must be better. Not! Those Dewalt 18v will kill your wrist and arm. To Heavy!

It's become pretty standard in my neck of the woods.
Buy whatever brand and use it till it dies, then get a Dewalt and keep going! :D

[warthog5]

I've had Mikita 9.6 and 12v, Craftsman 9.6V Millwakee 9.6v and I now have 2- Dewalt 14.4 w/1/2in chuck. The guys at work got the Dewalt 18v, cause more must be better. Not! Those Dewalt 18v will kill your wrist and arm. To Heavy!

It's become pretty standard in my neck of the woods.
Buy whatever brand and use it till it dies, then get a Dewalt and keep going! :D

[pjwalsh]

I am on my second Makita 9.6 since 1986. Th first 10 years had daily use (abuse), less so since. They have plenty of power for most cordless jobs and the housing is compact which makes it able to get to those tight spots.

[pjwalsh]

I am on my second Makita 9.6 since 1986. Th first 10 years had daily use (abuse), less so since. They have plenty of power for most cordless jobs and the housing is compact which makes it able to get to those tight spots.

[pjwalsh]

I am on my second Makita 9.6 since 1986. Th first 10 years had daily use (abuse), less so since. They have plenty of power for most cordless jobs and the housing is compact which makes it able to get to those tight spots.

[davidatlantic]

I like the 9.6 Makitas, I've had one for 12 years and finally bought a smart charger and an NiMh battery for it. As the manufacturers move to higher voltages and different battery formats the old stuff is getting cheap. I bought a drill motor off the internet last summer for $30 so I could leave one on the boat. I am kind of trapped by the 9.6 format now as I also have a 3.5inch circular trim saw that uses the same battery. For those of you thinking of abandoning this format, try the new charger and NiMh batteries, they charge faster and last longer!

[davidatlantic]

I like the 9.6 Makitas, I've had one for 12 years and finally bought a smart charger and an NiMh battery for it. As the manufacturers move to higher voltages and different battery formats the old stuff is getting cheap. I bought a drill motor off the internet last summer for $30 so I could leave one on the boat. I am kind of trapped by the 9.6 format now as I also have a 3.5inch circular trim saw that uses the same battery. For those of you thinking of abandoning this format, try the new charger and NiMh batteries, they charge faster and last longer!

[davidatlantic]

I like the 9.6 Makitas, I've had one for 12 years and finally bought a smart charger and an NiMh battery for it. As the manufacturers move to higher voltages and different battery formats the old stuff is getting cheap. I bought a drill motor off the internet last summer for $30 so I could leave one on the boat. I am kind of trapped by the 9.6 format now as I also have a 3.5inch circular trim saw that uses the same battery. For those of you thinking of abandoning this format, try the new charger and NiMh batteries, they charge faster and last longer!

[jwaldin]

I use my Makita every day-sometimes for jobs were I should using a heavier drill. Real workhorse.

[jwaldin]

I use my Makita every day-sometimes for jobs were I should using a heavier drill. Real workhorse.

[jwaldin]

I use my Makita every day-sometimes for jobs were I should using a heavier drill. Real workhorse.

[MikeP]

Meerkat,
The best present I got for Christmas was a DeWalt 18v drill and saw combo, 4 years ago. I have used this drill and have abused it. This is the most frequently used tool in my workshop. I would definitely buy another DeWalt if it was lost or broken. I've dropped it a number of times. Fortunately, no one was below. The battery went one way and the drill bounced the other. This drill has never let me down. I run the battery till its dead and switch it for a freshly charged one. It has enough power for any screw job and I fatigue before a fresh battery has exhausted its charge. If I need more power, I use a 1/2" corded drill with two handles. Just my 2 cents.

M

[MikeP]

Meerkat,
The best present I got for Christmas was a DeWalt 18v drill and saw combo, 4 years ago. I have used this drill and have abused it. This is the most frequently used tool in my workshop. I would definitely buy another DeWalt if it was lost or broken. I've dropped it a number of times. Fortunately, no one was below. The battery went one way and the drill bounced the other. This drill has never let me down. I run the battery till its dead and switch it for a freshly charged one. It has enough power for any screw job and I fatigue before a fresh battery has exhausted its charge. If I need more power, I use a 1/2" corded drill with two handles. Just my 2 cents.

M

[MikeP]

Meerkat,
The best present I got for Christmas was a DeWalt 18v drill and saw combo, 4 years ago. I have used this drill and have abused it. This is the most frequently used tool in my workshop. I would definitely buy another DeWalt if it was lost or broken. I've dropped it a number of times. Fortunately, no one was below. The battery went one way and the drill bounced the other. This drill has never let me down. I run the battery till its dead and switch it for a freshly charged one. It has enough power for any screw job and I fatigue before a fresh battery has exhausted its charge. If I need more power, I use a 1/2" corded drill with two handles. Just my 2 cents.

M